HMS Sphinx 1775 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Landlubber Mike]

What an amazing model!!  Incredible work BE! I really like your display. 

[chris watton]

Absolutely stunning work!

[GrandpaPhil]

Amazing work!

[glbarlow]

Really like the display, exceptional work on the model especially the ships boats, well done BE!

[BobG]

Fantastic model and display, BE! 

[Kevin]

i love it, beautiful work

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Guy's, for your supportive comments, much appreciated.👍

 

I'll be fiddling with Sphinx for a while yet when I get back from the Lakes.

Whether to fit the Hammock cranes or not is one thing on my mind as I look out of the window at Hartsop Dodd, thoughts of model making rarely go away completely.🙄

 

B.E.

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and Sixty-two.

 

Completing the Yawl

 

The third of the allocated boats for Sphinx, it’s nice to come back to it with all the planking having been done previously.

00620(2)

I have built this model before but on that version, I rigged her for sail. The Sphinx version is set up for rowing but will be tweaked a little to reflect the layout in the Pandora book drawings.

 

I won’t bore everyone with blow-by-blow details of the construction I covered this in the log below.

 

18th c Ships boats by Blue Ensign – FINISHED - Vanguard Models -1:64 - - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800 - Model Ship World™

 

However, having thought that the Yawl would prove to be the easiest of the three to build, having done it before, it has turned out to be the most problematic.

 

I wasn’t happy with the fit if the sternsheets, so I decided to scratch a replacement.

8287

Despite the fact that Lavery notes:

 The Yawl was unusual in that it was decked throughout its length, in three stages.

 I opted to use the provided brass etch decking and grating, altho' it did mean drilling thro’ the decking plate to attach the lifting rings.

 

As with my first Yawl build, I reduced the foredeck by removal of the board adjacent to the mast support.

8482(2)

With the Yawl I opted to use the kit non-operational rudder assembly, except I did not use the brass etch facings, preferring to laminate the core with 0.6mm Pearwood.

The strapping was formed using laser board strip.

3814(2)

This Yawl plan from the NMM (ZAZ7122) is set up for six oars which is right for the size and does show tholes set up each side on alternative thwarts.

Does the plan indicate that there would be corresponding tholes on the starboard side of the hull? This would suggest that she is set up for double banking, but single banking would also work with this layout with tholes on the alternative thwarts.

I have left the kit arrangement as is- set up for six oar double banking.

8465(2)

I couldn’t resist seeing how two burly fishing boat skippers would fair sitting double banked on the narrowest thwart.

8501

and at midships, with a space of 5’ 9”

It seems to work at 1:64 scale, but enough of this playing around.

8484(2)

I used the provided Pearwood oars with the char removed, and with a very limited round applied to the shafts. These are delicate pieces, and the handles particularly will break very easily.

At this scale there is very little option to model the swelling of the looms without working the shafts using separate 1mm Boxwood square stuff, something I was not prepared to do for the number involved over the three boats.

I opted to paint the oars red as a contrast to the bright finish of the boats.

 

8502(2)

8506(2)

The kit also provides very pretty little grapnels. These were silver soldered together before chemical blackening.

8481(2)

8476(2)

The completed set: has taken a fair amount of time to complete the boats, but it’s time I don’t begrudge, they are interesting little projects in their own right.

 

8488(2)

Fully convinced that Sphinx looks better without boats onboard.

8499(2)

8495(2)

I will now return to Sphinx to attend to the final finishings.

 

B.E.

22/09/2022

 

 

 

[allanyed]

B.E.

These are way past just a click on the like/thumbs up button. Your boats are some of the best shown here at MSW.  Thanks for sharing these in detail.

Allan

[yvesvidal]

42 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

 

Amazingly beautiful. For the presentation, I would place one on the deck and present the other twos, in the front, separately.

 

Yves

[glbarlow]

Great work on the boats. I built the same number for Vanguard, I didn’t enjoy it as much as you have nor do mine have near the level of detail you’ve included.  Well done!  I’m sure your choice for display will highlight the boats as well as the ship 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and sixty-three.

 Final touches.

 

With the boats put aside it’s back to looking at what is left to do on Sphinx.

 I turn my attention to the Hammock Cranes, sorting and prepping the individual parts.

 

I find myself puzzled by the Quarterdeck cranes.

 There is scant mention of these, a brief comment on p102 of the manual, referring to fitting them later, but nothing follows.

Prototype build.

I note that James dodged the bullet in the prototype build, they are missing from the final completion photos.

 The cranes are identified on Plan sheet 11, Suppl. drawings 7. (PE93 – 103 R&L)

 

The cranes are handed, and specific to each location. This presents issues when the items are to be chemically blackened because each set ideally has to be kept separate, and there are eleven sets.

They can’t therefore be batch blackened, and the cleaning and blackening will have to be done on a set basis to avoid mixing them up.

8510(2)

Each crane consists of two parts, the crane, and a tiny base plate into which it fits. presumably up to the nub on the shaft

 

How it fits is not immediately clear and it looks like the base plate needs drilling out to allow passage of the crane thro’ to the hull.

The secondary question is whether it is better to glue the plate to the hull first, then drill and fit the crane, or attach plate and crane first, and then fit to the hull.

CA is probably required to glue these fitting, which raises the concern of how to fit these without marring the blackened surfaces.

 

I rather feel that a brief explanation of this fitting and a couple of supplementary photos would have helped in this area.

 

 

B.E.

24/09/2022

 

[James H]

I left the hammock cranes off the model as they would've fouled the shrouds. That won't be a problem with your build. 

[Blue Ensign]

Easy for you to say James, I'm scratching my head as how to proceed.🤔

 

B.E.

[Glenn-UK]

2 hours ago, James H said:

I left the hammock cranes off the model as they would've fouled the shrouds. That won't be a problem with your build. 

Ditto, left off mine also

[Blue Ensign]

Hmmn 🤔 I wonder why that would be, still I'm more occupied in working out how to fit them.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and Sixty-four.

 

While I ponder on the best way to fit the Quarterdeck Cranes, or even fit them at all, I turn my attention to the Waist Hammock cranes.

 

The cranes are beautifully formed and detailed brass etch fittings even down to the hooks and eyes.

Amazon model

I do have the excellent example of the contemporary Amazon model which includes the cranes, and having test fitted them on Sphinx, I have decided to follow suit.

8525

My approach to fitting these cranes is to glue the foremost and aftermost cranes first and use fine brass tubing to align the holes.

I then fix the centre crane, and infill with the remainder.

 Ca applied to the crane stems fixes them in place.

8518

8524

I will leave the brass tubing temporarily in place to highlight their presence and hopefully reduce the risk of knocking them as I continue to work on the model.

8534

The Foc’sle rail stanchions are location specific, and these are separately bagged, and blackened before fitting.

8546(2)

8545

Cranes are fitted along the Quarter-deck breast rail.

8549

The stanchions for the boarding ropes complete the ‘ironwork’ set in this area.

 

Now, what to do about those Quarter deck cranes. 🤔

 

B.E.

24/09/2022

 

 

[glbarlow]

Just an opinion, I see no reason to fit hammock cranes on the quarterdeck beyond the forward rail. That and the waist cranes more than sell the story without overcrowding.

[Blue Ensign]

I'm sort of thinking that also Glenn, after all Navy board style by its nature is incomplete in many respects, and I don't want to over egg it.

I usually ask myself - What would Chuck do but he hasn't got to the iron work aspect of his Winnie yet, and maybe doesn't intend to.

 

The waist cranes are fixed, along with the Foc'sle stanchions, but the breast rail cranes are removeable.

 

 

 

The contemporary Amazon model has them fitted, but they somehow look finer on that model, and not so intrusive

 

I think I will make up a few of the quarterdeck cranes to get an impression of how they will suit my eye and refer back to my peer group.

 

Thanks for your advice.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and Sixty-five.

 

Back to the Qtr deck cranes

 

I’m not entirely convinced about fitting these items, but I’ll look at them as the manual and instructions are somewhat thin on these fittings, and hopefully fill in some of the gaps.

As previously noted, these are position specific so will be dealt with on a pair-by-pair basis. There are eleven sets of these which require sorting, fettlin’ and blackening before fitting.

 

They are present as indicated on the contemporary model of Amazon. 

Amazon Model

The cranes look a lot finer on this contemporary model than on the kit.

I also note that the first two cranes are single unlike the kit, but to what purpose?

8530

This is the foremost crane along the Quarterdeck and the base plate has been fitted to the crane prior to fitting to the hull.

The plate mortise required some adjusting before it would fit onto the crane, and the plates needed a little filing before they would fit into the available space.

8528

The crane in place; they are fiddly little items to assemble, but it is a mark of Chris’s attention to detail that the base plates are even supplied, I suspect many kits would have the cranes just slotted directly into the hull, even if they were supplied in the first place.

8551(2)

I do not intend to glue the base plate to the crane, only the stem of the crane to the slot in the hull.

8573

The cranes are chemically blackened with the base plate attached and a spot of ca will secure the unit to the hull.

8560

Those two foremost double cranes do rather catch my eye, even if they are a logical structure. For this section, beyond the Quarter rail, there is nothing otherwise to secure the inboard side of any netting.

8559

8562

8556

For the purpose of this test I have left the base plates off to give a more secure fit in the hull.

8568

I don’t think I would like to fit these cranes post full rigging, it will be a very tricky operation, and I can understand why James left them off.

Personally, I would have fitted them first, but if fitting post rigging, I would have left the base plates off, which will make it easier to get a firm fit into the hull.

8565

Another decision to make but one I will defer for a few days while I get on with something else.

 

B.E.

26/09/2022

 

 

[hollowneck]

On 9/23/2022 at 7:14 AM, Blue Ensign said:

Post One hundred and sixty-three.

 Final touches.

 

With the boats put aside it’s back to looking at what is left to do on Sphinx.

 I turn my attention to the Hammock Cranes, sorting and prepping the individual parts.

 

I find myself puzzled by the Quarterdeck cranes.

 There is scant mention of these, a brief comment on p102 of the manual, referring to fitting them later, but nothing follows.

Prototype build.

I note that James dodged the bullet in the prototype build, they are missing from the final completion photos.

 The cranes are identified on Plan sheet 11, Suppl. drawings 7. (PE93 – 103 R&L)

 

The cranes are handed, and specific to each location. This presents issues when the items are to be chemically blackened because each set ideally has to be kept separate, and there are eleven sets.

They can’t therefore be batch blackened, and the cleaning and blackening will have to be done on a set basis to avoid mixing them up.

8510(2)

Each crane consists of two parts, the crane, and a tiny base plate into which it fits. presumably up to the nub on the shaft

 

How it fits is not immediately clear and it looks like the base plate needs drilling out to allow passage of the crane thro’ to the hull.

The secondary question is whether it is better to glue the plate to the hull first, then drill and fit the crane, or attach plate and crane first, and then fit to the hull.

CA is probably required to glue these fitting, which raises the concern of how to fit these without marring the blackened surfaces.

 

I rather feel that a brief explanation of this fitting and a couple of supplementary photos would have helped in this area.

 

 

B.E.

24/09/2022

 

I omitted the miniscule base flanges entirely; not necessary. These also didn't allow a clean fit from the crane's end. I used a tiny drop of CA on the end and pre-drilled the bulwark holes that weren't large enough to accommodate them easily. These kind of felt like an afterthought, however I added them - and their ropes - afterall. They mount very tightly and right up against the shrouds. I painted mine flat black and added a little metallic weathering powder to turn them into iron. Make sure to file off the brass P/E "sprue" nubs.

Edited September 26, 2022 by hollowneck
spelling/typos

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Ron, I can understand you omitting the flanges, they mostly need filing down to fit and they are the devil to hold to do it. On a fully rigged model their absence won't be missed.

 

Post One hundred and sixty-six.

 

Looking at Anchors.

 

As a break from the main event (and to avoid making a decision on the cranes) I decided to make up a couple of the Bower anchors.

8590(2)

These are pre- formed in mdf, a departure from the usual white metal versions.

I am familiar with ‘wooden’ anchors from my Cheerful build and excellent realism can be achieved.

8591(2)

The Sphinx anchors, effectively blanks, will stand a fair bit of fettlin’ to make them look the part, assembled as is and they will look clunky and unconvincing.

 

Builders could do worse than consult Chapter 14 of the download instructions for Cheerful, from the Syren Ship model Co.

One major difference tho’ is that the Syren anchors were made of Boxwood which will take a cleaner edge than mdf.

This is relevant because there is properly a narrow bevel edge running down the shank and along the arms.

 

If this can’t be done cleanly on mdf, it is best left alone.

 

As I’ve got four to play with, I think I can risk one to check it out.

8576

The anchors clean up very well and the sanding of the bevels didn’t result in a feared fluffy edge. At least with mdf, sanding is a fairly easy operation.

 

For the life of me I haven’t managed to find the kit anchor flukes (0.8mm ply, part 52) or even find them on the plan sheets.

Fortunately, they are fairly easy to replicate, there is a 1:64 plan in the  AotS Pandora book.

8578(2)

I made them from 0.8mm Pearwood stuff.

The bill beyond the palm of the anchor should ideally be fined down to more of a point than the chisel finish shown on the kit anchor, which looks a little broad to my eye.

 

The anchor stocks are Pearwood, faced with engraved Pearwood patterns detailing the treenails and iron band positions.

8580(2)

In this photo the anchor stock is shown as supplied, but each half should properly have a slight taper on the outer faces from the centre section banding to the tips which needs to be done before the detail patterns are applied.

 

Anchor ring

For a 29cwt anchor Steel gives the thickness of the anchor ring as 215∕16”, 18⅛” in the clear.

8583(2)

This scales to 1.00mm ø brass wire formed around (in my case) a 7mm ø brass tubing section.

8588

The rings are fitted before the stocks.

8592(2)

The stocks are fettled to sit square at right angles to the arms, but when glued to the shank the glue is applied to only the outer third of the stock to allow the split line to be apparent.

8600(2)

The stock bands are slices of heat shrink tubing which is my preferred medium for this sort of thing.

8606(2)

For the ring puddening I have used Syren 0.30mm ø line.

8608(2)

8609(2)

8601(2)

The final stage is to apply a little weathering powder to enhance the iron look.

 

The anchors won’t be fitted on the ship but will be included in the display case.

 

B.E.

30/09/2022

 

 

 

 

 

[glbarlow]

23 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

allow the split line to be apparent.

 

Excellent work BE. I agree Cheerful was a game changer for me in many ways including the process converting wood to an iron anchor. That split in the stock was also a revelation for me. It looks really good done right, as you have done it here. 

Edited September 30, 2022 by glbarlow

[hollowneck]

9 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

The anchors won’t be fitted on the ship but will be included in the display case.

Very nice job on the anchors, B.E. The MDF does finish acceptably if one is careful. Once you daub on some weathering powder, one will be hard-pressed to believe the "iron" is made from pressed wood scraps.I like your tapering of the pear stocks, what a good idea. I didn't catch this detail when I crafted my anchors.

 

Placing anchors in your display case adjacent to your excellent model is a good, logical decision. I have a large bower anchor for my 64-gun model placed on it's display base near the bow and I routinely get questions about it usually regarding how large it is. Another option: you could put an anchor in one of the off-hull boats (just kidding).

 

I'm still wondering how to achieve some realistic mounting details for HMS Camilla's bower anchors. There seems hardly any convenient spot to place these monsters anywhere near the catheads and/or fore channels. I haven't found much info about how this was accomplished in real life. Like much of the sail rigging I'm now doing, I'll come up with some "creative engineering" to solve my anchor placement issue.

 

 

Edited October 1, 2022 by hollowneck

[Dave_E]

Very Nice indeed! 👍😀

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you, Glenn, Dave, and Ron.

 

@Ron.

 I can see your dilemma, there is only effective room for the bowers just aft of the forward port with the bill supported on the fish davit support.

If the spare Bower and sheet anchors are fitted, the bill will have to be supported on the forward end of the gangboards.

 

When I look at rigged contemporary models where anchors are fitted, there are mostly only two in the examples I have seen across all rates. Most rates would have carried at least three large anchors, plus Stream and kedging anchors.

 

In terms of your under sail, ‘at sea’ depiction at least the anchor cables would have been removed and the hawse holes plugged.

 

The anchors would be secured with ring stoppers. Shank painters and lashings.

5464

5466

This is how I envisage the Sphinx anchors being stowed, which fortunately I won’t be troubled with. In practise there would probably be a chock of sorts where the anchor palms of the sheet anchor would rest.

5467

Pegasus carried slightly smaller 20cwt bowers, the aft anchor here is the smaller Stream anchor.

You can see here the shank painters, ring stoppers and lashings.

 

I hope this helps a little, but the best information about handling anchors is contained in the book Seamanship in the age of sail by John Harland.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 

[harlequin]

fantastic looking build.....

[Erdict]

B.E. These anchors are fantastic!  I really like the way you are setting up your display. It seems very original to me. 
 

@chris watton am I looking at my kit correctly?  I have both wooden anchors and also a set of resin printed anchors. Is your kit evolving?

[chris watton]

3 minutes ago, Erdict said:

 

@chris watton am I looking at my kit correctly?  I have both wooden anchors and also a set of resin printed anchors. Is your kit evolving?

 

Yes

[hollowneck]

11 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Thank you, Glenn, Dave, and Ron.

 

@Ron.

 I can see your dilemma, there is only effective room for the bowers just aft of the forward port with the bill supported on the fish davit support.

If the spare Bower and sheet anchors are fitted, the bill will have to be supported on the forward end of the gangboards.

 

When I look at rigged contemporary models where anchors are fitted, there are mostly only two in the examples I have seen across all rates. Most rates would have carried at least three large anchors, plus Stream and kedging anchors.

 

In terms of your under sail, ‘at sea’ depiction at least the anchor cables would have been removed and the hawse holes plugged.

 

The anchors would be secured with ring stoppers. Shank painters and lashings.

5464

5466

This is how I envisage the Sphinx anchors being stowed, which fortunately I won’t be troubled with. In practise there would probably be a chock of sorts where the anchor palms of the sheet anchor would rest.

5467

Pegasus carried slightly smaller 20cwt bowers, the aft anchor here is the smaller Stream anchor.

You can see here the shank painters, ring stoppers and lashings.

 

I hope this helps a little, but the best information about handling anchors is contained in the book Seamanship in the age of sail by John Harland.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 

Many thanks, B.E., your info and the pics are very helpful. I don’t have the Harland book but I believe there is someone in my club from whom I can borrow a copy. I have fitted hawse stoppers on a previous model so I’m familiar with how to bash a set of them. Removing the anchor cables on Camilla will be the easier part!