HMS Sphinx 1775 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Christian and Thomas, and for all the 'likes'.

 

Post One hundred and One

 

A few more thoughts on the Galley stove.

Sphinx would certainly have had an iron stove, but one that pre-dated the introduction of the Brodie Stove.

Up to the time of standardisation following the introduction of the Brodie stove I understand there were  several manufacturers of iron stoves, all broadly similar.

What we have in the kit is a sort of Hybrid, having some features common to the Brodie, the chain drive being the most noticeable.

 I was puzzled by the two holes in the back panel of the Sphinx stove, so I scoured thro’ all my reference books on the subject.

The closest I could find is the stove used on the Dorsetshire of 1757.

The Arming & fitting of English Ships of War - Brian Lavery.

The position of the ‘Crocks’ (I think it should read Cocks) is close to the position indicated on the Sphinx stove.

 

I decided to add the  cocks to give a little more interest to the aft end rather than just two holes.

6238

6239

6240

I think that’s enough for a stove of this scale given the views that will be available even for the more open aspect of my build.

Time to move on.

 

B.E.

21/03/22

 

 

[Moonbug]

Nice touch!

[allanyed]

Your stove is a beautiful piece!     

 

The Dorsetshire (64) 1767 stove looks to be redrawn from the contemporary drawing of the inboard profile and deck drawing so most likely a very accurate basis to use.  https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-81162  and https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-81163

As Sphinx (20) 1775 was substantially smaller and had a much smaller crew of about 200 versus about 500 for a 64 like Dorsetshire, would the stove be just a smaller version or a different design in some ways?  The stove on the Dorsetshire looks to be about 86" X 88" not including the tray on the forward side.  Would this fit on the space available on Sphinx? 

 

Allan

 

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Bug, and Allan.

@ Allan – In his book The Arming and Fitting of English ships of War, Brian Lavery includes  a sectional drawing of a 1775  stove and conveniently gives the dimensions for each rate of ship from 14 – 100 guns.

The dimensions for a 64 are given as 5’ 9½”(B) x 5’ 9”(L), and for a 20 gun 4’ 1”(B) x 4’ 0”(L)

The Sphinx model Stove scales to 4’ 2”(B) x 4’ 10” (L)

These measurements are for the carcase only.

The inference of the table is that the stove was of the same style but scaled to fit the vessel size.

Out of curiosity I looked at the scale drawings of the stove in the AotS Pandora.

 This scales to 4’ 5” (B) x 5’ 2” (L) The corresponding size in the Lavery table for a 24 is 4’ 2” (B) x 4’ 0½” (L)

Make of this what you will, but the stove looks right on the Sphinx model and all importantly fits between the standards of the Riding Bitts.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[allanyed]

Thanks B.E.  I never thought to look in Lavery's book.  What is a little odd is that the dimensions he gives for a 64 are a bit different than what is on the Dorsetshire drawings.  I double checked the dimensions of the main body of the stove on the plans on the  RMG site and using the top view they are 6' 10" fore and aft, and 6' 3" athwartships.    Dorsetshire may be an anomaly or Lavery uses an average from various sources as he does not give a source for his chart that I could find.    Either way, your stove is a beauty.

Allan

 

[Rustyj]

The stove and everything else is looking really great.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Two

 

 Bitts and pieces.

6261

This is a convenient point to fit the Main Ladderway, but the stanchions I will leave until later.

6263

I’m glad I took the trouble to shape and paint the support columns on the lower deck.

 

A significant feature of the fore part of the Upper deck are the Riding Bitts.

6245

There are two sets of these; the aft Bitts which have a substantial cross piece, and the fore Bitts which sit beneath the Foc’sle deck either side of the Fore Mast.

6244

 

Shoe-horned between the aft Riding Bitts and the stove is the Galley door frame and doors. There is no doubt that these were a feature of ships of this period, but the position seems awkward and on a practical level one wonders why they are there.

I suppose that when closed they do provide an element of weather protection, but little else to my 21^st century eye.

 

From a modelling display aspect the more immediate question is how much fitting this feature will further hide the pretty little stove a good few hours spent in the making of.

The only way is to trial fit it.

6255(2)

The view of the Stove end is not unduly obstructed.

6256

6258

…  but the doors do impinge on the Riding Bitts.

I’m not sure at this point if I will keep the doors but If I do I will varnish them rather than paint them red.

The Marshall painting does show them fitted and painted red, but I think there is already an excess of red paint in that area.

 

The Bowsprit step is also now glued into place. The step and the support legs of the Topsail sheet bitts are one unit in my build as the manger boards  butt against the unit at the Upper deck level.

6265

I made the Manger boards back in posts 79/80, they now have to be put into position before the Foc’sle deck beams are fitted.

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6270

I can now move onto prepping the Foc’sle deck beams.

 

B.E.

23/03/22

 

 

 

 

 

[Morgan]

Hi BE,

 

Just picking up on the puzzle of the isolated doors abaft the galley.  I’ve been researching bulkheads of recent and it seems that only solid framed bulkheads, either demountable or permanent (the latter usually in the Orlop or Berth deck on a frigate), were shown on contemporary plans.  
 

Many partitions were little more than hanging canvas curtains, for instance to the Wardroom and Gunroom cabin spaces on Ships-of-the-Line, these are not shown on contemporary plans.  

 

It is entirely feasible that canvas screens were also to be found around the galley when there was a need for further enclosure, these would be rolled up and fixed under the deck beams when not required. 

 

Gary

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks for looking in Gary, there is a lot of evidence for the ‘solid’ galley doors either in isolation or as part of a Foc’sle Bulkhead.

The Adm plan for Sphinx does appear to show this feature.

It is an interesting idea that canvas screen may have been  used instead, but many contemporary models show solid doors. These were not fixed but held in place by cants across the deck in much the same way as the bulkheads across the Great cabin.

I can imagine the use of canvas screens within in the foc’sle, it was a popular spot for a temporary sick room, and the Hanging cabins are recognised as a feature on the lower decks, altho’ I never been motivated to model them.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Morgan]

Hi BE,

 

It was not unusual for differing partition types to be mixed, so to have the doors solid as Sphinx, hence shown on the plans, but used in conjunction with other canvas partitions, that would not be shown. This would certainly explain the apparent ‘stranded’ nature of the anomalous doors.

 

An example of mixing is Wardrooms in the mid 18th Century having a forward bulkhead of canvas stretched over frames, but mere hanging curtains to delineate cabins.  These curtains were either just weighted at the lower end or fixed to ring bolts in the deck, so no real structure to be captured on the plans.

 

I certainly wouldn’t like to model them, at 1:64 it would look like a dogs breakfast!

 

Gary

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and three.

 

Fettlin’ the Foc’sle Beams.

6271

With a fresh set of sanding sticks prepared I am ready to get stuck into the char removal from the deck beams. Fortunately the last major exercise of this type.

6273

The beams are quite delicate and it’s worth repeating that it’s best to support them in a vice for sanding to eliminate the risk of snapping at the mortises.

 

In trying to more authentically represent the deck beams of the Foc’sle I am faced with a trickier situation than with the Quarterdeck.

6274

The two carling parts (459) are not an authentic fitting.

Together with the foremost and aftermost deck beams ’S’ and ‘Z’ they form a box structure to support the deck beams, with the consequence that the fitting of deck ledges is inhibited.

This is not a criticism  of the kit which was not designed  for this level of detailing, but it means that the deck planking will need to extend beyond this point.

 

I have decided to fit the Galley doors; the decision had to be made before the aft deck beam was fitted.

 

Having painted the remaining beams they are trialled for fit to make sure that no nasty surprises are lurking.

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6284

6285

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It all slots together very cleanly.

 

I have a lot of things to think about in relation to the Foc’sle.

Fitting of hanging knees in conjunction with the beams, there are sufficient kit provided parts to do this.

I like the look of the exposed beams and fancy leaving it more open than the Qtr deck. It will need planking along the bulwarks inboard to the outer carlings and on the solid bulkhead section at the bow.

Other than that I am inclined to leave it completely un-planked but I will fit the coamings and gratings above the galley stove.

There is the tricky question of the Cat beam running beneath the deck beams and the connection to the Cathead, it is not clear in my mind how to approach this yet.

 

Still for the next week I will be enjoying the magnificent  scenery of the Menai Straits.

5032

There has barely been a day over the past few months that I haven’t worked on Sphinx and I’m not sure I won’t get withdrawal symptoms, but  Anglesey has its compensations, not least the wonderful photo opportunities.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

25/03/22

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Four.

Fore deck considerations.

Before I can do anything further with the Foc’sle  the four guns have to be put into place.

6292

 A production line approach is taken for painting and assembly, a repetitive job, but I do like those resin guns.

6342(2)

The last thing to fit are the Quoins, the handles are represented by a pva blob.

6349(2)

Once cleaned, coated with spray matt varnish, and weathering powder applied, they do look the part and I doubt I would return to  brass versions.

6350

I will have to go with the kit set-up in relation to beams, but I added an additional beam against the existing bulkhead at the bow.

This will provide a ledge to  fix the Cat beam against its underside, and further mask the solid bulkhead.

With the guns glued into place the deck beams are added.

6353

6354

I’m not sure why the two  half beams either side of the mast extend beyond the carlings, perhaps it is just to provide additional support for the deck around the Foremast.

 

I adjusted beams 460T to be flush with the inner edges of the carlings and prepared mast partners to fit in the space.

6362

A card template is used to form the partners.

 

Once again Chuck’s ‘Winnie’ build has given me a lead, this time for planking the Fore deck.

6365

Tweaked to suit Sphinx I think I can make it work.

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6368

Additional planking will be required at the bow, but otherwise I will leave the deck un-planked.

The next tricky little job is to work out the Cat beam position but for that I need to assemble the Catheads.

 

B.E.

02/04/22

 

 

 

[KirbysLunchBox]

Bravo!

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Five.

 

Foc’sle deck cont’d

A representation of the Cat Tail (beam) is attended to next.

Part of this will be visible  thro’ the unplanked deck so needs to be in place.

Because of the design of the kit I can only display  the aft end of the tail as it fixes beneath the deck beam forward of the Bowsprit stop.

6374

The forward end is abruptly terminated against the kit bulkhead beneath the extra beam I fitted at the very forward end.

 

The Cathead position is marked on the bulwark and it is suggested that this be enlarged by filing out to suit once all the decking and inner bulwark patterns are fitted, and the Cathead inserted thro’ from the outside.

 

This seems to be an awkward approach to the job, I cut a slot in the outer bulwark to facilitate a trial fit.

6392

I need to ensure that the Cathead aligns with the Cat Tail.

6388

The ‘false’ deck is temporarily pinned into place with a deck piece to facilitate alignment and fitting.

6387

Not fully adjusted at this stage but the stive looks pretty steep.

 

A small adjustment to the cross beams of the Bitts; I filled in the belay pin holes.

6380

There is evidence that such items were not in use at least in the early years of ships of this era, and many contemporary models do not show them.

6373

The Foc’sle steam grating/ Flue assembly is modified to reflect its fixture to the deck beam/carlings, and is given a slight round-up to the head ledges/gratings.

 

The provided veneer deck pattern deck piece is modified to suit my arrangement, and will be planked over using Boxwood strip.

6371

I have already fitted the breast beam decking strip with slots to take the rails and Belfry which will sit directly on the carlings.

Before I glue this in place I will check out how the planking strips actually relate to the pattern.

 

B.E.

04/04/22

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Six

 Foc’sle deck cont’d.

6396

6403

The sub- deck is glued into position.

 

The first consideration is the Margin plank, Sphinx has a tight turn at the bow which makes  fitting more difficult.

 There are two options, cut it out of suitable sheet stock or edge bend it using heat.

Edge bending 6mm wide x 0.6mm strip is an almost impossible option, even with repeat soakings, bendings, and the application of a hot iron, the result is not pretty.

 

Where is a piece of 0.6mm Boxwood sheet when you need one to cut the margins, not in my workshop.

An order is submitted and the item delivered in 24hrs, great service from Original Marquetry.

6399

When I ordered this ‘sheet’ I hadn’t quite realised how long it was, I was primarily concerned with width and depth.

6400

Still, I now have more than enough to satisfy any future needs.

6405(2)

A template for the margins is taken from the sub deck and glued to the Boxwood sheet.

6407

This is thin enough to cut with a scalpel; needs tidying up  and adjusting for the inner bulwarks yet to be fitted.

 

The plan is to fit the inner bulwark patterns directly on the  engraved deck pattern, now my sub -deck, fit the margins to them. and add the thinner inner patterns atop the margins.

 

B.E.

07/04/22

 

 

 

[hollowneck]

Wow.

That long piece of boxwood laminate looks quite tasty. A nice idea as well as execution on the foc'sle margin plank, in keeping with your other many excellent embellishments!

 

A humble suggestion: perhaps the remaining length of the box sheet would work as a laminate for the model's baseboard. It appears to be wide enough. From what I can observe, the existing base looks fine, but the lighter boxwood would also look very nice beneath the finished model; essentially, more "contrast." Were it I, I'd temporarily slip a length of the box below the model and "test" the overall look, to see if I liked it. The contrast could prove very attractive.

 

Such aesthetic choices - and there are many in what we do - I acknowledge are highly subjective and personal.

Cheers!

 

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Ron, what you see is only a temporary building board. I favour displaying the model on keel blocks which will be fitted within the  case that I already have for her, but that’s a while away.

 

Regards, 

 

B.E.

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and seven

 

Completing the Foc’sle planking.

The inner bulwarks patterns were put into place following the kit blurb. The Cathead slot was then cut to match the outer bulwarks.

The Margin planks proved stubborn with initial attempts thwarted when the planks broke at the cross grain  of the sharp curve.

This was addressed by the simple expediency of applying sticky backed labels to the underside of the strip before cutting.

With the margin strips fixed the thin bulwark skins were glued into place.

 

At this point the decks were covered to hopefully limit as far as possible sanding dust dropping to the lower decks.

6413

The bulwarks are sanded level, but I had the Foc’sle gunwales handy to check progress.

 

There are only three strakes of planking along the bulwarks.

This involved a couple of hooded planks, as nibbing was not a general feature of this period.

6419(2)

Forming a hooded plank, cut out of 10mm strip and edge bent slightly to match the margin.

 

Planking completed, but it will require scraping and sealing.

6457

6456

6451

6453

6450

Still a fair bit of fettlin’ to do and more stuff to add.

 

I am thinking about removing the three paler hooded planks and try to find a better colour match. They keep catching my eye in an annoying sort of way.

 

B.E.

11/04/22

 

[Nipper]

BE - you  know are going to replace those hooded planks!  So do we!

Your attention to detail and your never being satisfied are an inspiration.  It is always with a heavy heart that we remove parts of our careful work that we have spent ages preparing, but replacing them with some better is always the best option.  Otherwise it will always come back to spoil our satisfaction at a job supposedly well done.

This is something I have learned from reading your build logs, and as someone once wrote - "the journey is more important than the destination".

 

Nipper

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Nipper, very kind of you to say so.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and eight

 

Snaggins.

Not for the first time I take a backward step and start ripping up the work I did the day before.

Why I didn’t stop when I sort of knew  the colour match wasn’t ultimately going to satisfy my eye I don’t know, a case of hope over experience perhaps.

 

It is not that difficult to remove planking without disturbing the adjacent planks. Dampening the strake and easing using a thin blade they can often  be removed intact.

6470

6472

6473

Another day to rectify what I should have done in the first place but I am now happy with the colour match.

 

Movin’ on.

 

B.E.

12/04/22

 

[Moonbug]

    Very nicely done BE - and certainly well worth it.  

[glbarlow]

I wonder sometimes if I just like ripping off planks only to do them again,I do it often enough. Your revisited deck was definitely worth the extra work. 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and nine

 

Foc’sle fittings.

 

Belfry.

I have been looking forward to assembling this important feature on a ship model.

6496

This is a laser cut assembly of multiple delicate parts. In cleaning the char, I used very soft hands and a mini vice to prevent any flex during sanding. As I intend to leave the Belfry bright good cleaning is essential to show the Belfry at its best.

 

The Belfry on my Pegasus build is a little fancier than that supplied with Sphinx, and I can’t really let a sixth-rate sloop outshine a ship rated for a Post Captain.

 

On my build there will be little around the Belfry to distract the eye so there are enhancements that can be made and one that should be made.

 

The basic main patterns and canopy look fine, but I feel the supplied lower support patterns let the structure down. To my eye they look ugly and very obviously stick-ons, lacking the elegance of the Classic design employed during the 18^thc on this feature.

 

The Headstock can be tweaked to a more stylish shape.

 

A crank arm can be added.

 

There is very little brightwork on my version of Sphinx, so I have indulged myself a little with the Belfry.

 As with Pegasus I intend to copper the Canopy roof, this will have the additional benefit of masking the layered assembly.

 

I’m not sure what the purpose of the two cleats on the aft face of the columns are for. On Pegasus two cleats are shown on the sides of the columns, indicated for the Fore T’gallant braces belay.  For Sphinx these are indicated belaying at the Foc’sle rail.

 

6497

I begin by replacing the lower support patterns, using 3mm x 0.8mm Pearwood strip to build up the base of the column fore and aft to reflect the chamfered pattern of the athwartships design.

6500

This instantly improves the look of the columns.

 

A shaped Headstock is cut from some 2mm thick Pearwood fret.

6507

The pattern cross bar is cut away from the Main pattern (scary) and replaced with a more stylish version. The bell fits into the base of the new Headstock.

The Bell is quite a nicely modelled Brass item.

 

6512

A Crank arm is formed using an old Hammock crane and fits into the top of the Headstock.

6516

Finally, the Canopy top is coppered using some copper foil tape also used for a representation of the metal strapping on the Headstock.

Still some fettlin’ to do and the support knees to add but overall I’m pleased with the result.

 

B.E.

14/04/22

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Ten

 

Foc’sle Breast rail

More tiny little pieces to assemble and fit.

It’s these small fittings that soak up a lot of time, I have been fiddling with these for two days.

6518

Made more difficult by my deck modifications resulting in the need to tweak the support knees so that they sit on the carlings whilst retaining the above deck height.

6527

As with the Bitts the belay pin holes have been filled in.

6524(2)

6520

6528

The support knees for the Belfry are added.

Constant soft brushing is now required to keep the dust down, must try and find a small nozzle cleaner to get between the beams.

 

In the next post I return to the Cathead.

 

B.E.

16/04/22

[Moonbug]

   Nice work getting such a tight fit with those railings and support knees BE.  And if you find a good nozzle cleaner, please let me know.  I cringe at the amount of dust and build up every time I take a macro shot these days.  

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Bug, the major dust making  aspects of the build have now been completed, but there is an ongoing need for sanding and re-painting here and there apart from the general dust that just appears.

I have temporarily modified the Dyson hand cleaner (Mrs W hasn't noticed yet) by taping a length of flexible Evergreen Tubing over the  nozzle.

 

Crude but effective.😉

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Eleven

 

Catheads

Tricky things Catheads.

The good news, the Catheads align with the previously installed Cattails.

The less good news the Catheads are proving a pain to install.

From the blurb pics it looks like the Cathead only fits inboard to the extent of the angled base.

Even with the slot cut down to deck level on the inner side and to the bottom of the top rail on the outer side, the cathead stubbornly refuses to allow the Gunwale to sit flush.

6481

The Cathead stive is 30° which looks a little steep to my eye, Goodwin (The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War) gives the angles at between 15° - 20°

6482

In this shot the Starboard side Cathead  is set at 20°, the Port side as per the kit arrangement at 30°

6483

20° suits my eye much better.

Adjusting to a revised angle will entail fiddling with the deck fit but will resolve the fit issue below the Gunwale.

 

Fettlin’ the Cathead.

The Cathead is a constructed part with three sheave holes pre-drilled. A star emblem is lasered into the decorative cap that fits to the outer end, a nice touch.

Greater realism can be given to the sheave holes by using a scalpel blade and micro file to give more form to the sheaves, and by inserting a pin thro’ the sides of the Cathead to represent the sheave pins.

There is a simplification with the sheave holes, which are drilled vertical to the beam.  The sheave slots should really be vertical in relation to the stive.

Not an issue for me on this occasion as I am not rigging the Catfalls.

 

I have decided to leave the Catheads bright with the panels painted blue and the cap decoration also coloured. This accords with the Marshall painting.

6535(2)

I have set the angle at 20°, a simple jig is used to match the pair.

6534(2)

6551(2)

6540

6541

5639(3)

6556(2)

6554(2)

I am trying not to think about the Cathead support bracket at present which I know should follow the curved line of and fay into the Eking rail.

The manufacture of the kit provided Laser cut item precludes this feature.

I will have a go at making a replacement but forming the compound curve is no easy task, unless because of the small size a curve can be induced in a length of 2mm thick Pear strip.

Still I have the covering boards / capping rails/ Gunwales to consider before I need worry about that.

 

B.E.

18/04/22

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Eleven.

 

Foc’sle Capping Boards and Timberheads

The instruction is to have the inner edge of the rail flush with the inner bulwark.

On my model at least there was a little lining-up mismatch in the curve around the bow area. This is most probably due to the way the round on the hull was faired all those months ago.

6564

The capping rails were on and off the model numerous times before eventually painting and gluing in place.

The timberheads are individual and position specific.

It took me some time to locate them on the parts sheet (sheet6) and the location plan (sheet14) and then find the actual timber sheet.

6608

The Timberheads are quite nicely shaped and only need cleaning up before painting.

I was pleased that they slotted into the capping rail with a perfect fit.

Note that the bottom edges are angled to suit the sheer line.

The Fish davit supports and Snatch block at the Cathead are nicely detailed.

 

Cathead supporters

There should be a smooth curve to meet the Eking rail but at this scale it will be a tricky thing to carve the curve out of a solid block, so I tried the water/heat bend approach first.

The kit item was used as a template to draw the shape with a much longer tail onto a piece of 2mm Pear wood.

I use the spare fret from the kit as a donor piece.

The shape is cut out on the scroll saw and left to soak for several hours.

6578(2)

The bend is then induced to match the pattern of the eking rail.

6577(2)

This took more than one soaking to get as close as I could without splitting the wood.

An alternative approach would be to laminate three separate strips of thinner stuff which may be easier to curve.

6580

The top of the supporter where it meets the Cathead requires  to be angled to sit right with the curve. This is a bit of a compromise but at least achieves a smooth curve.

At the bottom end the Cathead needs to be fayed to meet the Eking rail.

Part of the sheer rail pattern that sits beneath the Eking rail needs to be removed to allow the Cathead to sit flush with the hull.

6593

6595(2)

6598

6599

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Am I satisfied with the result, perhaps not 100%, but I will reserve further judgement until I come to fit the Main Rail of the Head works.

 

 

B.E.

21/04/22

 

[Landlubber Mike]

Spectacular work BE!

 

I love how you painted the friezes - on my Pegasus, I've been toying with the idea of hand painting them on, rather than use the PE.  Seeing how detailed they are, I'm working if i'm better off with the PE.