The Shipyard at Foss' Landing (Diorama) by gjdale (Grant) - FINISHED - SierraWest - Scale 1:87 (HO)

[gjdale]

Thanks very much OC, Ken and Mark, and also to all of the "likes".

Detailing the Diorama Scenes (continued)

 A couple of “housekeeping” items to begin with. Firstly, I built an extra ladder and hung it on the side of the Saw Shed using a couple of “S” hooks I made from brass wire.

 

 

Then the Bumper was added to the end of the rail tracks. This is made from some scrap dowel.

 

 

Two lamps/lamp posts are required. I found what I believe to be one lamp among the metal castings, but only one. It also requires a piece of brass wire attaching to it to form the lamp post lamp. Faced with the dual problem of being short one lamp and securely fixing wire to a white metal casting, I opted to make a pair of new lamps by turning them from brass rod on my lathe.

 

In the picture below you can see my new lamps on the left, with the blackened original casting on the right.

 

 

While I was turning these, I also bored out the back end to accept a 1.6 mm (1/16”) diameter brass wire. I then silver soldered the wire to the lamps. Here they are cleaned up and ready for blackening.

 

 

The lamp posts were made from 7/32” (~5.5mm) diameter dowel. The blackened and buffed lamps were epoxied into holes drilled in the dowel and are shown below temporarily in place in the diorama. (The Telegraph pole can also be seen in the background).

 

 

In the photograph, the poles look a little over-thick, although in the flesh they seem okay. I don’t know whether this is just a trick of the camera lens, or whether I need to redo the lamp posts.

 

With these tasks complete, I was able to proceed to detailing the Derrick Dock. Here are a series of photographs of the detail in this scene.

 

The end of the dock, with the shed and the Derrick both in place. The Derrick has since been removed for safe keeping until the diorama is complete.

 

 

An overview from the pit side of the dock (minus Derrick)

 

 

Looking down at the inboard end of the shed.

 

 

A closer look at the inner end of the dock.

 

 

And another view of the shed area.

 

 

I’ve also done a little more work on the entrance road, adding some hint of vegetation growing between the wheel tracks. It looks like someone has just arrived to check on progress….

 

 

The final task for the day was to glue the main building in place. Detailing the various scenes around the main building will commence tomorrow.

Edited June 16, 2023 by gjdale

[gjdale]

Detailing the Diorama Scenes (continued)

A picture heavy update, so I'll spread this across two posts.

 

With the “ground work” complete, it was time to start placing the remainder of the castings around the main building and docks. In doing so, I’ve used the pictures in the instruction manual as a general guide to placement, without copying it exactly. We start with the area outside the Sales Office. Once the castings were in place, the Sales Office Porch was added. This was built in the usual way over a provided template. A two-step set of stairs was also added. In the picture below, I have also added the old truck in its final place.

 

 

The stairway to the upper storey was then build and added. A set of three laser-cut stringers are provided in the kit, along with a cutting guide for the stair treads. I got so engrossed in what I was doing that I forgot to take any “in-progress” pics of this process but it was a straight forward one.

 

 

Prior to placing the stairs, the area underneath the stairs was detailed with the workbench and other items various. The workbench was a one-piece casting painted earlier, but legs and bracing were needed prior to final placement. I’ve also added a few scraps of timber under the bench.

 

 

The left Loading Dock was next. Again, the shelving unit was a one-piece casting painted earlier. All other items are individual castings.

 

 

Next we move onto the area outside the Yard Master’s Office. I obtained a set of HO Scale figures from Woodland Scenics and have used some of these to add some more life to the diorama. The set of figures I bought was a Carpenter’s Crew. Here I have modified one (by cutting the saw off of his hand) to represent the Yard Master examining the ship’s plans.

 

 

Then it’s on to the end of the Main Dock. Looks like a lot of inventory has been delivered recently.

 

 

And from another angle.

 

 

The rear of the Yard Master’s Office also houses a range of parts and clutter.

 

 

The right Loading Dock also gets its share of paraphernalia.

 

 

The fence line is now added, complete with “rising damp” as suggested by a SWSM forum guru.

 

 

Continued next post...

 

[gjdale]

Continued from previous post...

 

A few extra dock yard maties were selected from the Carpenter’s crew and placed in the overall scene. This chap is carrying a load of freshly cut timber over to the ship.

 

 

Two more are at work on the ship itself.

 

 

And here’s a close-up of one of these two.

 

 

Here then are a few “spin” shots showing the overall diorama from all angles. The design of this kit is so clever, that there is no “front” side – take our pick!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One thing I didn’t mention earlier, but can be seen in the above photos, is that I wasn’t happy with the light poles or telegraph pole, so I re-made these all from 1/8” dowel (the manual actually specified this for the telegraph pole, so I figured the light poles must be similar).

 

The last task remaining (other than a little touch up here and there) is to pour the “water”. While I’m a little apprehensive about this as there is no going back, the instructions have very little to say about it, other than following the resin manufacturer’s instructions and doing a little test first. I’ve learned along the way that when the instruction manual does not go into great detail, then the process is generally straight forward. (Famous last words).

 

 

 

[Glen McGuire]

4 hours ago, gjdale said:

rising damp

I had to google that one.  Such a subtle effect, and very nicely done, Grant.

 

There is so much going on in the overall diorama.  I think I could stare at it for an hour and not catch all the detail.  Incredible!

Edited June 20, 2023 by Glen McGuire

[Jack12477]

Fantastic model/diorama Grant.

 

For water,  search YouTube for Woodland Scenics' videos on making water scenes. Very useful ! 

Edited June 20, 2023 by Jack12477

[BobG]

Truly amazing detailing, Grant! WOW!

[Rustyj]

Outstanding work Grant!

 

Edited June 20, 2023 by Rustyj

[mtaylor]

I'm' just flabbergasted.

[Canute]

Superb work with all the details and "clutter". Very well done.

 

Jack's video steer is spot on. Just make sure you have no openings where you pour or you'll end up repouring the water. Don't ask how I learned that.

[Old Collingwood]

Truly  amazing work   dome  to  such a  very  high  skill.

 

OC.

[VTHokiEE]

Beautiful! Thoroughly impressed!

[gjdale]

Thanks very much once again for all the kind comments and the likes.

 

Finishing the Diorama – the Water

 

To complete the diorama, I added an external frame of 3mm plywood, that doubles as a dam for the resin water. Once glued in place, I sealed the inside joins with silicone and then used automotive masking tape to reinforce all of the seams before pouring the resin. I used Envirotex Lite resin as recommended in the instruction manual. I did several small test pours with varying combinations of paint to tint the "water", before settling on a mix of Vallejo Dark Prussian Blue and Black in about a 5:1 ratio.

 

With the testing complete, it was time to take the ‘no turning back’ step and actually pour the water. All seems to have gone well. The pictures below were taken about two hours after the pour. All bubbles seem to have sorted themselves out and I have “embraced the creep”. Not sure yet whether I will apply some paint along the shoreline to change the colour there a little. The other thing I’m not yet sure about is whether or not to attempt adding some texture to the water surface using either a Woodland Scenics product or an AK Interactive product. I’m open to thoughts on this. Here are the photos with the resin still curing.

 

 

 

 

Once I’ve made those final decisions, I’ll take off the tape and take some final “glam” shots.

 

 

[wefalck]

Unless it is suppose to be one of those leaden, dead-calm summer days, I would add some texture to the surface. I normally do this with acrylic gel, 'stippled' on with a bristle brush to simulate light wind-ripples. I also may play with some gloss acrylic varnish in places to show calmer areas.

 

Similarly, the acrylic gel can be used to simulate some small waves lapping up the beach.

Edited June 29, 2023 by wefalck

[gjdale]

Thanks Wefalck, that’s pretty much what I had in mind. 👍

 

I have no experience with any of the products/brands available though, so was hoping for some recommendations in that regard from those who may have trodden this path before.

[wefalck]

I would know only French or German brands that may not be available 'down-under'. I think any artists' acrylic gel will do. It is sold over here in wide-necked plastic bottles of 100 ml and above. The 100 ml lasted me a couple of decades ...

[Glen McGuire]

I totally agree with wefalk on adding some texture to the water.  You've got so much incredible and realistic detail throughout the diorama, to me it just would not look right with glass smooth water.  

 

I have done the same thing that wefalk describes with acrylic gloss medium and a brush.  I use the gloss gel because it adds a shine like sun hitting the water.  It's transparent so I have applied it directly over my blue epoxy resin water.  Here's the product I use.

 

 

Another option (I have not tried it yet) was covered by @hollowneck on his NRG workshop presentation a couple of weekends ago about adding water to dioramas.  For calmer water, he has a technique using diluted white glue and single-ply tissue paper to add some slight ripples.  I will likely try this on my current project.  Ron's Camilla build log also gives a detailed description of the process here:

 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30217-hms-sphinx-1775-by-hollowneck-finished-vanguard-models-164/page/15/

 

 

[gjdale]

Thanks Wefalck and Glen,

 

You’ve convinced me to have a shot at adding some texture to the water surface. I’ve just ordered some of this:

 

[wefalck]

Well, that's probably the same as artists' acrylic gel, but more expensive 😁

 

Over the years I have used various 'substrates' for water, ranging from sculpting in plaster of Paris, sheet acrylic, layers of acrylic gel, to thick water-colour paper sealed with sanding sealer. Below is an example using blue fluorescent sheet acrylic, which is probably closest to your cast water. It tries to evoke the water in a shallow lagoon off Kiribati (Micronesia):

Scale is also 1:87.

[fnick]

First of all. Like the others said: wow! 😮

 

Secondly plasmo did a water diorama where he made some of the effects I think you are after.

 

 

Just in case this helps

Nick

[Old Collingwood]

8 hours ago, gjdale said:

Thanks Wefalck and Glen,

 

You’ve convinced me to have a shot at adding some texture to the water surface. I’ve just ordered some of this:

 

That  what I used  to make  my pond  in my  Waterloo  dio.

 

OC.

[gjdale]

Thanks for all the input guys, and also for all of the 'likes'.

Finishing the Diorama – the Water (cont’d)

So I acquired some AK Water Gel Effects (AK8007) and applied this with an old fairly stiff brush. The effect I was looking for was that of a gentle breeze across the water surface, with occasional clear patches of no breeze.

 

As this is my first attempt at this process, I would appreciate some further feedback and/or guidance/tips to improve the appearance. Are the "wave lines" too distinct? Would I be better off using a more "stippling" method to remove/reduce the line effect? The good thing about this product is that I can add more to change the effects.
 

Here is the first attempt.

 

 

 

 

Thanks in advance for any and all input/advice.

 

[wefalck]

I think the ripples are too much in parallel lines. They should probably appear as shallow intersecting arches. I tend to do this in several sessions, first marking the centre of the arches and then working outwards.

 

Also, the white foam around the posts is not in line with the calm sea. Wave would lap up to them and then be diffracted probably in form of more or less circular ripples the intersect with the other waves.

 

 

[gjdale]

Thanks Wefalck - that kinda aligns with my thinking. The “white foam” around the posts is actually just a trick of the light though.

[Glen McGuire]

Do you have a picture of the effect you are trying to get?  In the first pic below, you get the overall impression of parallel lines from a gentle breeze, but the lines themselves are not so uniform.   

 

 

Personally, I really like what you did in the bottom right corner.  I think that looks quite realistic so close to shore in a somewhat confined area like a shipyard.  Just my 2 cents though.

 

Edited July 3, 2023 by Glen McGuire

[gjdale]

Thanks for that input Glen. The photo you posted is pretty much exactly the effect I was going for (but still with the odd calm/still patch). I’m going to have another crack at this today - I have a couple of ideas/techniques in mind….

[Egilman]

Something about water brother especially on a bay, slack water is still, high water is ripply,  ebb tides generally have long flows but can be confused with still water, incoming tides carry the long swell wave action ...

 

Water like that your depicting is usually at the freezing point where the successive edges build upon one another with the occasional small clear water patches... The ice surface is seldom smooth usually a bunch of slight jagged edges sticking up in every direction... The ice gets smooth when successive snows and the sun has had a chance to work on it smoothing out the ragged edges...

 

You need to decide what type of water you want to depict, ebb tide, slack tide or incoming tide.... high water is not in the picture...

 

Check out some pics of the Canadian Labrador or Maine bay waterlines in late fall early winter for examples... The farther north you go would be better...

Edited July 3, 2023 by Egilman

[gjdale]

Thanks again for the input guys. 

 

I decided to have another crack at the water – I just wasn’t happy with the ripples, nor the smooth patches. So I did two more applications of the Water Gel Effects using a softer stencilling (I think) brush. My aim was to blend in/out the heavy parallel lines that could previously be seen, and also to remove the totally glass smooth areas. I’m happy with the result and am going to call “done” at that. Here’s a few shots of the final version of the water. 

 

 

 

 

 

Final "glam" shots to come later today....

 

[Keith Black]

 Grant, the water surface now looks great, very natural. The whole project is absolutely superb. 

[Glen McGuire]

Exactly what Keith said, Grant!!

 

This has been such an amazing build to follow and pleasure to read.  Your detailed description of each step in the process was like a well written instruction manual.  I have learned several things from you that are helping me immensely in my own projects, so thank you for that as well. 

 

Well done, sir!!!   

[Old Collingwood]

That  looks  perfect  to me  Grant,  really  nice work.

 

OC.