Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build

[Chuck]

Working steady now on the model which is good.   I doing this while laser cutting parts for those first two chapters.

 

The lower bulkhead against the aft platform was next.  This is pretty easy and straight forward.  But before I can get to work on that I have to add the gun deck clamps for the beams.  There are many ways to find the height for the deck clamp.  But I chose to create another template.  Its just easier for me.   And I hope for you as well.   Place it on the model with some tape.  The top edge of the template under that inboard shear plank.  Then trace along the bottom edge of the template to mark the TOP of the deck clamp.

 

The deck clamp is made using two lengths of 1/4 x 1/16 cedar strips.  Just follow the line you made.  The top of the strips against your line.  This chapter will come supplied with a few gun deck beams.  You can see I cleaned the char off one in that same photo.  I cut it to length and test fit it in position.  It should slide right up against the great cabin planking.   Hopefully you have the height of your deck clamps equal on both sides so you dont have a sloped deck beam...

 

I have that beam sitting on the side while I take the two pieces that are laser cut for the lower bulkhead.  Its all etched and ready to go.  You just have to clean any char and tweak its shape a bit.  You want to get a pretty good tight fit against the bulwarks on each side.   But remember you will have a gap where the inboard planking would have been.   Thats fine.  So you have some leeway here.   The inboard edge of each bulkhead should be flush with the opening for the stairs.   You can see this in the photo below while giving it a test fit.

 

I applied some finish to each piece before gluing it in position.   One note however.   Continue to test fit both sides of the bulkhead....with the beam in position.   You will see that after tweaking its shape that it sticks up beyond the deck beam.   That is by design...so leave that as is.   You may have to adjust as needed on your model depending on how far apart your platforms are.  But this small lip will be important later when we add the next bulkhead on top of that beam.

That next fancy bulkhead is my next project.   The plan fits really good so now I just have to spend the next couple of weeks turning this bulkhead into parts that look convincing.  Its a major focal point for the model so I will spend a lot of time getting the details and design just right.  Hopefully.  That first quarter deck beam is not glued in position yet.   Its just there to help me plan out my next moves for this bulkhead.   The windows and door will be a challenge for sure.  But I am eager to get started.

 

 

 

 

[KennyH78]

Such amazing work!  If one did not know better, one might say that you are actually building a real ship and not a model.

[Jim Lad]

Chuck, for some strange reason I've only just stumbled across your build log. I must say the whole project is well up to your usual impeccable standards!

 

John

[ccoyle]

2 hours ago, KennyH78 said:

If one did not know better, one might say that you are actually building a real ship and not a model.

 

That's what sets the masters apart from the rest of us.

[Chuck]

Thank you guys for the kind words.  
 

 

[glbarlow]

Amazing details. 

[Chuck]

Design prototype for the fancy bulkhead....version 4b and counting.   I really dont want to build version 5.   But its getting close.   This one is so close.....

 

 

Chuck

[Tossedman]

So good! Are you laser engraving the details on the pillars?

 

Cheers,

 

Todd

[scrubbyj427]

That is awesome. I take it your inserting separately cut panels that you have hand sanded? It looks very good.

[Chuck]

1 hour ago, Tossedman said:

So good! Are you laser engraving the details on the pillars?

Yes for the most part.   This project is almost entirely made of laser cut parts.   Almost every part.  So far aside from the hull planking and deck planking everything is is a laser cut part.  There may be a few odd strips of wood here and there.   I thought the Winnie had a lot of parts but this certainly has it beat.  It is by no means an assembly project though.  This isnt a Lego set.  Each piece needs to be cleaned of char and shaped in some way, shape or form.

 

For example with this bulkhead,

 

It starts as two layers like the bench lockers.   The top layer has etched reference lines to help you with other parts later.  The lower layer is 3/64" thick.  Dont sand anting off the thicker lower layer.  There is no need to sand the char off any edge.  In fact that would be bad.  But the top layer is just .025 thick.  The edges inside the windows and panel openings must be filed clean of char with a light touch.  I used a flat needle file and a very light touch.  It will be painted but it is best cleaned up somewhat.  The right side has its top layer glued in position after cleaning the char from the edges of the two openings.  Dont worry about the extreme outside edges of the top layer.  Dont sand that char away as you want it exactly the same size and shape as the bottom layer when you glue them together.  

 

Once the two top layers are cleaned and glued in position, hopefully you havent thrown away the center squares for the paneling. These are then sanded and beveled on all four sides to make the raised center panels.  A very gradual long bevel is needed to make it look good.  This makes the beveled area wider.  Try and keep it a consistent width all the way around.  Remember this layer is just .025 thick.  I used a sanding stick with 320 grit for this.  Two of the panels are done in this photo and two more to go.  The straps in what will become the doorway are very important in this design.  This keeps both sides at the perfect distance apart.  This will allow us to put the curved top pieces on later without worrying that your door opening is too wide or too narrow.  If that were the case,  those top pieces would never fit.  We will be cutting those away later after the bulkhead is securely glued in position.

 

At this stage, you should take it to the model for a test fit.  Depending on where your beam is in relation to the aft platform under it, everyone's model will be slightly different even with the most careful measuring throughout the project.  It also depends on how much you faired the frames inboard!!  So the bulkhead at this point is slightly longer and higher than you will hopefully need.  So at this stage, you must slowly sand each end so it fits snug against the inboard bulwarks.  Holding it at an angle so you can test fit the side against the bulwarks.  Once you get a good fit on one side you can repeat this on the other side.   Keep doing this until it fits snug against the top beam and against the lip on the bottom beam.  Slow and steady is the name of the game here.  Only sand off the slightest amount working both sides until this bulkhead fits in position.   You can see how nice it fits on the starboard side below.

 

Then direct your attention to the top and bottom of the bulkhead.  The top edge should be flush with the top of the beam.  So rather than just sand the top down flush...its better to take a bit from the bottom and a bit off the top.  Depending on your model this might be a lot or maybe none at all.  There are so many variables.  But hopefully I have accounted for them all in my design.  The door is also shown in this photo.  It has two layers and a panel also.  But we wont be adding it until much later. But you can glue the outside layer and panel in position.

Now that you have a great fit...its time to paint the forward side red.  Not the aft side!!

 

Then we can start adding the column parts.   They all need to be sanded and filed clean.  Gentle here folks.  Dont over sand.  Use a very fine grit.  A sanding stick works great here.  

 

The base of the columns are all added first.   NOTE:  These are glued on with 3/64" of space below them.   That is for the gun deck planking much later on.  Dont place these against the bottom edge of the patform.  There is a laser etched line for reference so you dont forget. That is followed by the column itself after removing the char from the sides. The top of the column goes in next.  Below you can see each column at a various stage. The base and tops are also filed to clean up the laser cut grooves a bit.  Especially the sides of these pieces.  Its exactly like we did for the transom columns.  Once all the columns are done, there is a laser cut molding on the top of the bulkhead between the columns.  Each length needs to be rounded off on top and bottom.  Just on the forward side.   Then if you want to, you can bevel the entire length of each molding so the bottom comes almost to a point.   Do this on the back side.  Making it a pie shape in profile… It will look nicer and add dimension.  But this is optional because its a pain in the A..

 

Any bit of the columns that stick up along the top can be sanded flush with the top of the bulkhead.  I made the column tops extra long just in case.  Use the laser reference lines for placement as a guide only.   Yours maybe different depending on how tall your bulkhead actually is.  But it should be pretty close.

 

Then lastly...laser cut window frames are inserted into the reverse side.  You will see a nice lip formed by the two layers and these will fit really nice inside each opening. That is followed up with a laser cut sheet of acetate for the window glass.  

And so far that is as far as I got.  But this is a main focal point of the model so take your time and be as neat as possible.  We will glue it into position now...the beam is glued in first and then the bulkhead.  Nice and secure top and bottom.  You can see where we will cut away the deck beam in the doorway as well as the strips that kept the bulkhead properly distanced for the door opening.   But we have a couple more things to do on the aft side of this bulkhead before we can cut away those pieces.

 

 

 

[Gregory]

26 minutes ago, Chuck said:

These are then sanded and beveled on all four sides to make the raised center panels. 

Any tips for getting those bevels so nice and even?  They are part of a project I am working on. One false pass, and it's into the scrap pile.  Slight variations in the bevel are very obvious at this scale. Yours look machined, but that is typical for your work.  I remember when you used to shape blocks by hand ( or so you said 😁 ) and they looked just as good as your CNC blocks.

 

 

[Freebird]

Chuck, you make this look so very easy, but I know that’s not the case. I just love the intricacies of this endeavor and I’ve been studying the Speedwell books. I’m so looking forward to this project!

 

Best Regards …. Rick

Edited March 4 by Freebird

[Chuck]

I just used a sanding stick for the bevels with a fine grit.  Slow and steady.  I have graciously laser cut a spare set of the center panels for folks just in case.  These are too tiny to use a disc sander so its all about hand control.  No silver bullet for these as far as I know.  
 

The only trick I know is to not make the top layer too thick.  Most folks use pieces way too thick and it looks chunky and out of scale.  
 

Even with this .025 layer I still sanded them even thinner once they were glued in position.

[TBlack]

You, having been a graphics designer, have excellent math skills with the laser. And hand control ain’t bad either.

[dvm27]

Very well thought out Chuck. This a very distinct feature on the model and you are off to a great start. Maybe show a photo of the contemporary model so folks can see what you're after?

[Chuck]

Here you go but the details are ver hatd to see..

 

[davyboy]

Lovely job on the Q' Deck bulkhead Chuck. I spent quite a number of hours and bad language making mine for my POB Speedwell.

I built mine in 3 separate sections on a piece of 1/64th ply,looks pretty good but not in your league unfortunately. Several dozen

separate items were needed to accomplish this.

 

Dave 

[dvm27]

I have dozens of Speedwell NMM photos but curiously, not one of this area. I'm posting a photo of my completed Q'deck so people can see what you're shooting for. It's not as elegant as yours but should give people an idea of how it all comes together.

 

[Chuck]

I would be so lucky to have it come out like that Greg.   Yes I did add more columns...I figured why not!!   I would only regret it later.   I will also embellish the railing along the quarter deck a bit more.  I am taking bits of detail from another original draft used for "FLY".

[Chuck]

[KennyH78]

Chuck,  your bulkhead looks absolutely amazing!

[Rustyj]

Absolutely Stunning! I can only hope I will come remotely close to your work!

[Stuntflyer]

Chuck, very nice!  Quick question. Is that bulkhead removable so that it will go in after the deck is laid?

[Chuck]

Nope… its in for good.  Lots of layers and parts.  Its all glued in secure.

[TBlack]

Chuck, you must be pleased with the result. Looks good from here.

[Chuck]

No gaps to worry about Mike...you will see when you get to this point.   Here is the step by step to finish the bulkhead.  These are my notes so I dont forget how I did it.  

 

Once the bulkhead is glued into position we need to add another layer on the aft side.  This will make the aft side nice and smooth and even and neaten it all up.  I am referring to the two strakes below the windows and the uprights between the windows.  All are laser cut.

 

Now we can finally cut away the beam within the doorway and the other straps as well.  Do this carefully with a fine toothed saw.  I use a fine toothed scroll saw blade in an Xacto blade handle.  The bulkhead layers make it all sturdy but you still need a light touch.  No hurry with this.  Below you can see the open space for the doorway after I cut them away and then sanded the sides of the opening flush with a sanding stick.  You can also see the door laying there.  I finished the other side which gets another layer of .025 cedar with another panel...unpainted.  The small strip you see there becomes the saddle in the doorway that the door will rest on top of.  It is a 5/32" x 3/64" strip.  The same thickness as the planking wee will use on the gun deck.

 

Testing the door in position...which is wider than you will need.  Sand it to fit the opening...and tweak the opening as well.  A little sanding with a sanding stick on both will insure a nice fit.  Note how the door is sitting on top of that saddle strip.   The door is not glued in position yet.   It is just a test for the next step...the rounded top frame.  The first .025 layer can be seen in the same photo ready to go.  See it laying on the deck?

 

This first layer (of four) is .025 thick.  It is a little taller than you will need.  So while the door is resting in the opening,  set it in position.  You will see a gap along the top of the door.  Sand the bottom of this arch a little at a time until that gap closes up.     Then glue it to the front side of the two tabs sticking up. Sand the seams flat and paint the front face red.  Then one by one there are three more layers of this arch.   Next the 3/64" thick piece.  Then another .025 and lastly another 3/64" thick arch.  This will make the top arch above the door nice and sturdy.  Now you are ready to finish it up...

 

Note…dont bother cleaning the char from the edges of these pieces.  You will distort the curves and it wont match the top of the door.  This wont be seen at all.  You can lightly sand the top of the arch once all the layers are glued in position.  But just a little.  That will be covered up also.

 

 

You can now place the margin plank along the front of the whole bulkhead.  It will hang over the front slightly.   It will also leave a nice rabbet on the aft side for the qdeck planking.  It is a 1/4" x 3/64 strip.  Just round off the forward edge and cut it to length on both sides of the arched door frame. The last piece will now cover up all those layers of the arched top.  It is laser cut for you.   There is a handle on the part so you can sand the char from the outside of this piece without breaking it.  It is a bit fragile  ( I will provide a few extra).   Once the char is removed then cut it free from the handle.  Dont bother sanding the underside of this piece.   Once again it wont be seen.  The forward edge is rounded off.  The aft side remains flat.  You can see it glued on top of the arch in the photo below.   It is 7/32" wide and all the pieces are flush on the aft side of the platform.  It is basically an extension of the margin plank around the top of the arch to clean it all up.   

 

We havent glued the door in yet so we can remove it and add the laser cut hinges.  You can also add the door knobs.  That is your choice...a simple knob or maybe a pull handle.   I prefer bending some brass strip and making a pull handle.   Then you can glue the door in position and the bulkhead is complete.

[Nirvana]

I have no words.....🙂.....

[westwood]

It's just perfect, Chuck.
And again, a great demonstration of thoughtful design and what can be done with a laser cutter.
That layered bulkhead is awesome.

[glbarlow]

With each project the level of detail increases tenfold. Quite amazing. 

[Chuck]

I cant believe I forgot to add the last piece.  I completely forgot about it and then just saw it sitting inside the hull.  I originally tried to make this from boxwood but it was way too fragile.  It broke every time.   So I cut one out of the tan plastic stuff I used for the windows and just forgot to add it.

 

You can see a spare sitting in the hull.  You can see how fragile it looks.  A beaded molding trim that goes all around the inside of the doorway.  I have now added this last piece and that completes chapter 5.  I think it finishes the bulkhead and I am glad I spotted it.  Its all about the small details.

 

I also finally cleaned up the hull and added some wipe on poly.  So all the wood should be less white and toned down now.  This is the final color with the

finish added.  I dont know If there is much difference but in real life

there certainly is.

 

 

Next I will start building the storage closets inside the great cabin.