Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build

[tlevine]

So far it is unanimous for the dark frieze.  The very pale color of the AYS complements the darker background.  If the wood were more yellow (like costelo), the blue would probably look better.

[Chuck]

I am sure there will be those that hate it...whether blue or darker,  and even a red field.

 

The friezes are certainly something that is a personal thing.    I saw so many variations of friezes at the Rogers Collection.   I encourage everyone to get out of their comfort zone...it was tough for me but things can get stale fast otherwise.

 

Just a few close ups as I took many.

These are dark ones.

 

 

 

 

[druxey]

Some 'darkening' will be due to age and yellowed varnish over the paint. Teh friezes were probably lighter a few hundred years ago.

 

I do prefer the darker background myself instead of the duck-egg blue!

Edited October 18, 2023 by druxey

[Chuck]

I agree Druxey but as you said it does mimic the old contemporary models.  I imagine I did speed up the darkening with age for this version of the frieze.  But I am shooting for that contemporary look as I always do.  
 

I guess the older I get I also like my models to have a bit of patina, LOL

 

But rest assured there will be that shiny new traditional blue folks are fond of.

[scrubbyj427]

I think it looks great! I’m also fond of the red up above, I think they go together well. All the models I’ve been studying have a darker blue frieze, or at least it appears that way in photos. 
 

Are you going to offer a 1/48 version?

[Chuck]

No just this scale will be tough enough to produce.

[Chuck]

There will be a limited run of 10 or 15 POF kits.  I am cutting the first two chapters now which will comprise all of the framing for the first five.  
 

The cost for the first 2 Chapters is $800.  It is comprised of a whole lot of wood sheets.  The estimated total cost for the project fully rigged will be about $2300.

 

To reserve one of these very special limited edition POF version send me a PM to reserve it. Although when time and my wood supply permits, I will keep one or two sets of these first chapters on the shelf.  

 

 

Chuck

 

 

[FrankWouts]

What will roughly be the total price of the POB version Chuck?
Thanks,
Frank.

[Chuck]

I am not sure yet.  I may actually just skip the POB all together and if I only sell a handful of Speedwell POF kits then so be it.  And then move onto the smaller subjects I started.  It is what it is.

 

I am still mulling it over.  Its a big decision.  But so far there are about 9 pof kits reserved.  I will just keep a couple on the shelf after making those first 9 and see where it goes.

 

I decided not to put a number on how many POF kits I will eventually make.  I will just keep one or two on the shelf and if they ever sell thats fine.  If they do sell I will just make one or two more.

 

Some other smaller prototypes in progress below.  Hudson River Sloop and Block Island Fishing Boat.

 

chuck

 

 

[BobG]

The Speedwell POF is certainly a beautiful model well worth the price for those who would love to build an outstanding POF model. I think that keeping a couple of them ready on the shelf and then also being able to cut more as needed is a great idea. 

 

The Hudson River Sloop and Block Island fishing boat are both very interesting and will be great additions to your high quality line of models. I'm looking forward to following your progress on them.

Edited October 24, 2023 by BobG

[Hubac's Historian]

I really like the darker frieze for all the reasons preciously mentioned.  It’s good to mix things up from time to time.

[Chuck]

Thanks...I am really happy with the frieze thus far in the project.  Just a quick update that I have finished the port side molding and friezes which is nice.   That completes chapter 3.   Next up I will start work on the outboard stern details and carvings.  That will fill up chapter 4 so I can start work on the interior in chapter 5.

 

Have a great week guys!!!

 

[scrubbyj427]

That looks really good!

[Freebird]

Outstanding!

 

Rick

[Trussben]

Shes a Beauty Chuck!

[Rustyj]

Wonderful workmanship!

[FrankWouts]

On 10/24/2023 at 1:44 PM, Chuck said:

I am not sure yet.  I may actually just skip the POB all together and if I only sell a handful of Speedwell POF kits then so be it.  And then move onto the smaller subjects I started.  It is what it is.

 

I am still mulling it over.  Its a big decision.  But so far there are about 9 pof kits reserved.  I will just keep a couple on the shelf after making those first 9 and see where it goes.

 

I decided not to put a number on how many POF kits I will eventually make.  I will just keep one or two on the shelf and if they ever sell thats fine.  If they do sell I will just make one or two more.

 

Some other smaller prototypes in progress below.  Hudson River Sloop and Block Island Fishing Boat.

 

chuck

 

 

Understandable Chuck, things must not grow over your head and sell in big enough numbers.
But I don't know your opinion on outsourcing the lasercutting work / kit production of your superb designs?
I mean, why do everything yourself? You could spend more time and focus on designing and prototyping.
When I count the number of build logs, you're becoming very succesful now, or is it not enough quantity to start thinking on outsourcing?
Or do you prefer to keep it 'small' and in your own hands?

Thanks,

Frank.

Edited November 7, 2023 by FrankWouts

[Chuck]

Unfortunately when you are using the woods we use it becomes impossible to outsource.  That creates another huge problem.  Getting enough wood milled in Boxwood or Yellow Cedar is tough enough.  Having it shipped to supply another laser cutter is impossible.   The costs would increase by another 30 to 35%.  I Have gotten quotes for laser cutting and its ridiculous.   In fact I do outsource some laser cutting where I use plywood,  the Winnie bulkheads for example.  But the limited woods they carry are problematic unless I start using Basswood like every other manufacturer.    I may laser cut one Speedwell in Basswood just to see how it looks.   But I have to find someone willing to build it.   If it works I could have a dozen ready to go in no time at all!!!  But if someone is spending this money they dont want to use basswood.
 

If I were to use Basswood or any other wood not suitable for better ship models it would be an easy solution.  
 

I would be cutting more Speedwell parts right now if I had the milled wood on the shelf.  Logistics are awful.

 

But like I said…I wont limit the number of Speedwell kits but they will be slow in the making.   Getting regular shipments of 100's of milled yellow cedar sheets or Boxwood sheets is not an easy task.  And its super expensive.   I will always keep one or two of each chapter on the shelf.  Remember at the same time I am still laser cutting Winnie parts and Cheerful parts and a whole host of others.   Laser time is the easy part...getting material is another.

 

 

 

 

[Chuck]

Just a little bit of work today to start chapter 4.

 

I actually did forget to add something for chapter 3 so I just made it the first thing in this new chapter.  That was the anchor lining.  Its pretty straight forward.  Each strake of the anchor lining is laser cut although it may not line up perfectly with everyone's planking on individual models.  You guys may make some planks narrower or taper them less up there.  But its better to have them I suppose and if folks have to they can easily make them from scratch.

 

Then starts the stern details...

 

First up was to scratch some molding for the lowest one just above the square tuck.   You guys have done this before.   1/8" x 1/32" strip of boxwood scraped.

 

Then the frieze was cut out and glued on.   The darker one of course to match the friezes on the side of the hull.

 

Then the upper molding above the frieze was added.  It was done in two layer.  The first is laser cut for you on a curve to match the curve of the transom.  There are registration marks to help center it etched onto the FORWARD side of the molding.  This is the side that gets glued to the transom.   The AFT side of this strip need to be sanded with an angle along its entire length.   This helps establish the correct angles of the second layer which we will add later.  The laser cut piece on the bottom is a non sanded example just to show the laser etched lines that help you center it.   The ends will hang over on both sides of the hull quite a bit.  That is by design.   But you can see the other example on top which has been sanded along its entire length on an angle,  basically making it triangular in profile or wedge shaped.   This can be glued on the model once completed.

 

 

Thats when you can scrape another length of 1/8" x 1/16" boxwood strip which can be glued on top of it.   Its just a cheat to help establish the correct angles of this complex piece of molding.

 

Then the sides are completed and trimmed which is a boring long process I wont bother posting here...bit in the end you get this below.   You can see how it extends beyond the side to create a little platform.  This is for the standing figure.   

 

 

Its not time to glue these figures on permanently yet....but I did want to do a test to check its size and fit and placement.  I removed them right after.  Note how the figures follow the angle of the transom when viewed from the side of the hull.  The figure was designed to look like it was stepping forward and leaning.  This is important for  the look of the model.   They face almost outward from the side so the front of the torso almost faces port and starboard.   Although there is a slight turn aft as well.   One foot also slightly hangs over the molding which is correct but maybe not this much once I actually glue them on permanently.

 

 

Thats it for now but a little painting is next up so I can continue work on the stern.  There are the typical columns and such as well as the carvings above the windows.

 

Chuck

 

 

[Jim Rogers]

She is a real beauty Chuck. Can’t wait to get started.

[dvm27]

That's a very well thought out method of producing that tricky upper molding Chuck. Such a beautiful model!

[Chuck]

Finally finished up the stern details today.  At least up to the point I would like to do them for this chapter.

 

First up was to paint the top of the transom before adding the actual carvings.  I didnt have to paint all the way to the upper edge.  I didnt want a painted seam to show afterwards.  I also marked the lower areas so I knew where to stop the painting as well.  You cant tell in the photos but its not black at all.  Its a very muted brown black and even gray.   I didnt want it to be too stark a black.  I also dusted some blue on there as well.  So much for my photo skills, LOL.

 

The two figures (port and starboard) were removed as they wont be added till last in this series of steps.  Then the actual carved transom was glued into position.  Once again this was after some initial cleanup and staining to make it match the wood color.  Old masters gel stain (fruitwood) was used once again.

 

With the transom carving secure it was time to focus on the forward side of the carving.  Basically the thickness of the carved transom is thicker port and starboard.   Where it hangs over on both sides.  There is a little carved detail in the center of this as well which can be seen on the contemporary model.  My solution was to build up this area with two layers.  The first middle layer is laser cut in boxwood.   This layer was cleaned up of it laser char and then shaped a bit with some sandpaper and files.  The edges were rounded off and I just had some fun with it.  You can see my example being held in the clamp.  You guys can do as much as you like with this piece.  Photo is below.  Then the most forward layer will be glued on as well.   This is a resin casting.

 

When gluing them on you must finesse them a bit.  Meaning you may have to trim some of the hull molding etc.  You can fill any cracks or seams with wood filler and generally speaking try to blend them all together.  The photo below shows these two layers on the model.  They were glued to the forward side of the transom.

 

Next up was to add the columns.  This is pretty straight forward.   All of these pieces are laser cut for you.  The tops and bottoms of the columns are 1/16" thick.  They were cleaned of laser char and filed to suit.  Then glued on the transom.  The long fluted columns are thinner but laser cut as well.  The laser char sanded from these and the each column was sanded to length for a tight fit between the tops and bottoms we just added.  This takes a while to do but isnt difficult.  You may also notice some molding at the base of each window.  They are between the columns bases.   These are laser cut too.  Just remove the char and round off the top edge like a quarter round.  Then glue them in.

 

Lastly we can put those two standing figures back where they belong.  But before you do...there are tiny laser cut bases made for them.  These bases or the floor...rock...the ground...whatever you would like to call them need to be shaped.  They are shaped like a little step.  I did this rather than incorporate them into the casting.  Everybody's model is slightly different.  You can customize this base so your figure fits perfect on your model.   See the photo...

Just sand it free of char and file some bumps and grooves into it.  Mine are hardly noticeable in the photo but they are there.  Make it look like a stone or rock base.  Using this keeps the nice run of the molding that wraps around the stern while covering the seams between all those layers we created.   It covers up where the figures will stand while creating the correct angle for the figure to match the transom.  It will be hardly visible.   Shape yours to suit.

Here the figure is glued in place but not until after the tiny base was glued in position first.  You can see the figure stepping on the small rock carved base.  This pretty much finishes up the stern to the point where I want to be in this chapter.  Its for the most part complete except for some very small features we add much much later.  I think it came out rather nice considering this is a kit.   But my goal was of course not to make it look kit-like at all.

 

 

 

The contemporary model...

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

That looks awesome!

[Chuck]

4 hours ago, scrubbyj427 said:

That looks awesome!

Thank you kindly for saying...

[Stuntflyer]

Chuck, you certainly have my 👍 on the transom work. Those figures look great, beautifully done!

[FrankWouts]

Beautiful work, design and true to the contemporary model Chuck!

I'm hooked...

I do hope the POB version will be realized, POF may will be a bit too expensive for me in total, but we'll see.

Otherwise it will be my first full scratch build, as I already bought the Speedwell books from Seawatch on your advice...

Frank.

Edited November 23, 2023 by FrankWouts

[Chuck]

Thank you very much....I am hooked too.

 

Chuck

[Freebird]

Incredible!

 

Best Regards …. Rick

[Trussben]

Fantastic work Chuck.

[Chuck]

Thank you guys.  Work will slow down for a while.  I have been hired to help out on a feature film for the next couple of weeks.  The lead actor is a ship modeler.  I have been asked to help set up a believable ship model workshop and stage the home with my models along with others from my New Jersey club members.  Its exciting and a once in a lifetime thing I just couldnt pass up.

 

The lead character played by Ed Harris will be building my Medway Longboat kit in his workshop.  How great is that…along with my tools and other things to dress up his garage workshop.  I am

going to help teach them how to fake it as a ship modeler.

 

Starring Ed Harris, Dustin Hoffman, Jennifer Coolidge and Gabriel Union.