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Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build


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Beautiful work Chuck. It is such a pleasure to vicariously build this model through your build log. 

I love all the astute solutions that you find to put together this incredible Build. It must take a lot of your wake-up time just thinking how everything is going to fit together.

Finally, that use of the White Cedar wood is something unique in the models building world, and will probably remain your signature.

 

Yves

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Thank you so much for saying.   Today I decided to just have a little fun.  I designed and laser cut the parts to make a simple table and chairs for the great cabin.   I also made some cushions which are also laser cut.  Made some for the bench lockers too.  The great cabin is not so large.  Even though this looks like a huge model the cabin is actually very small.  A tiny space with not too much room.  I pondered making a table to show the scale and how little room there would actually be in there.  The table is just 2' x 4' in size.   Also consider that I havent made the closets and cupboards yet which go on the forward side of the cabin.  I will begin work on those now and see how it all looks when completed.  I decided not to even paint the cushions...why not!!

 

It was a really fun project at any rate.  If I decide to use them I may include the parts in the kit.  I also have some 1:32 figures on the way from Chris at Vanguard. 

 

table2.jpg

table1.jpg

 

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Laser cut cushions? Well, that is new..... not even the extreme modern yachts has that....😁

Chuck, that looks amazing!

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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Posted (edited)

Speedwell was designed for shore patrol so overnight accomodations were not usually a worry. Your "great cabin" would have been occupied by a Lieutenant (she didn't rate a Captain) and I'll be he would have been thrilled with your ecoutriments.

Edited by dvm27

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

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Chuck, the chairs, table and cushions are next level!  Just when we think that you can't possibly outdo yourself; you yell out "Hold my beer!" 

Kenny

Current Builds:   HMS Winchelsea   MS US Frigate Confederacy

On Hold: Continental Frigate Raleigh 1777

Completed Builds: MS 18th Century Longboat   Dinghy - Midwest Kit    H.M.S Triton Cross Section 1/48   Chesapeake Bay Flattie - Midwest Kit

Future Builds: MS English Pinnace;  OcCre Endurance;  Revenue Cutter Cheerful

 

 

 

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Messing around with cabin cupboards or closets.   Making the bulkhead assemblies and inserting them.  Nothing is glued in yet.

 

 

 

cabincupboards.jpg

cabincupboards1.jpg

cabincupboards2.jpg

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8 hours ago, TBlack said:

Chuck, I see some differences there. In the first picture the top level of window panes is all that visible while in the second photo we get to see two levels of window panes. I am discerning that you haven’t decided which way to go yet.
Tom

I am not sure what you mean.  The great cabin is now finished.  That is a small row of closets and entranceways as per the original draft.  I am just using windows on the doors to let light in the cabin rather than solid doors.  It makes sense that they would have them there.  I have a few small things left to add to this area but its basically done for now...then its on to the f'castle details.

 

chuck

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7 hours ago, TBlack said:

Chuck, I see some differences there. In the first picture the top level of window panes is all that visible while in the second photo we get to see two levels of window panes. I am discerning that you haven’t decided which way to go yet.
Tom

It’s the angle that the photograph is taken that is misleading you. It’s the same detail in both pictures.

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The cupola...

 

I was undecided if it made sense to add the cupola now or wait until after the deck is planked.  But I decided it might be easier to plank around it so I went and completed it.

 

It will be shaped in a sort of lift method.   

 

Below you see all the parts needed laser cut along with the first prototype completed.

 

cupola.jpg

Step 1...glue the 3 layers of curved roof together with the thinnest curved horseshoe at the end as shown.

 

cupola1.jpg

Step 2...

 

Glue the 1/16 piece on the bottom which will give you the ultimate rounded shape you are shooting for.

 

cupola2.jpg

Step 3...

Sand the roof at first to that rounded shape along the sides.   Use the piece glued to the bottom as a guide.

 

cupola3.jpg

Step  4...

 

Then sand the top to shape.  Specifically the back end of the dome to establish a nice curve.  Dont over sand the forward side.  Just remove the char and you will be good.

 

cupola4.jpg

 

Step 5...

 

Finish off what remains by sanding the remaining parts to a nice dome shape.  It should look like the bottom of a test tube cut in half.  Now at this stage you could also take a Dremel with a small sanding tip and shape the inside.  But why bother.  It will never be seen.  You can make it as thin as an eggshell if you desire but seriously there is no point.   You should remove the cross piece from the opening on the forward side though.  There is no reason to keep that now that it is all shaped.  That was from the 1/16" layer that you glued to the bottom of the assembly early on.

 

cupola5.jpg

Step 6...Take the last remaining laser cut horse shoe piece (1/8" thick) and sand the char from the outside edge.  Also round of the top outside edge.   When you place the cupola on top it should leave a consistent lip all around it.   This gives you the illusion of a molding piece all around the bottom of the cupola.  

 

cupola6.jpg

Step 7...Paint it copper or brown or whatever color you prefer.  I didnt want to go with shiny metallic copper paint.  I opted for a medium brown color.

 

But before you can add it to the model the framing for the cupola needs to be added between the deck beams.  That is the last laser cut piece.  Just sand the char from it and position it as shown.  No need to clean the char from the center because you will never see it.  center it behind the door.

 

cupola7.jpg

Step 8...

 

Glue the cupola in position after making sure it fits snug against the door frame.  It should also leave a little lip around the top of the door frame being slightly smaller in size.  For now I have left the rim around the top of the door frame bright.  But I may decide to paint it the same brown color to match the cupola later on.   I havent decided yet.  I want to wait until after a build the railing and have the deck planking all done.   I will see how it all looks at that time.

 

cupola8.jpg

cupola9.jpg

 

This finishes work on the qdeck for now....I am going to finally move to the fcastle area.

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Posted (edited)

Very nice! That's pretty much how I imagined it would be done. You mentioned that you didnt want to go with shiny metallic copper paint. I wonder how metallic paint would look with Dullcote on top.

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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22 minutes ago, druxey said:

Does it account for the angle of the deck that the cupola sits on?

Indeed it does.  That meant the first try went into the scrap bin.  But I eventually figured it out.  
 

Mike I originally used copper paint but it was too much for my tastes.  It just looked out of place and your wye went right to it too much.  Even when toned down I just decided to go brown.  But who knows…maybe you will like it.  Its just a personal preference thing.

 

It would literally be the only thing on the model with that finish…its a bit distracting to my eye.  

 

 

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Here are two photos of the second version which I made.  This one is finished with copper paint and sprayed with dull coat.   The copper paint was just from one of those copper leafing pens.  It worked really well actually.   This was my best result with the copper attempts.   I havent glued the cupola on yet so I can keep trying both and pick the one I like best.   

 

cupola10.jpg

cupola11.jpg

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Nice job on the cupola Chuck. I like the dulled copper version and it suits your approach well (making a model of the NMM model).

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

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Chuck if I may offer another suggestion for coppering the cupola.

 

image.png.651efa0cbb7e70314bde84cb8999bfdb.png

 

I used copper leaf  and put the part in a bag with some boiled egg to get the patina.  I don't doubt that you would get a finer finish than I did with this approach should you try it.

My patina is probably a bit harsh.

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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Greg convinced me!!!  I also spent a great deal of time looking at the contemporary model.   I also decided to coper the top of the doorway.  It just made sense to do that.   I painted a plain piece of paper with the copper paint and cut a narrow strip.  This allowed me to leave a nice neat edge on the front of the bulkhead.  I left just a 1/64" of the top showing so it looks like molding around the doorway.  I am sure I will get used it over time.

 

cupola12.jpg

cupola13.jpg

 

 

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Perhaps a thin wash of brown to tone it down a bit more? It draws my eye just a little too much. Again, it's a matter of personal taste.

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