Sloop Speedwell by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop, 1752 - POF

[Chuck]

I was just looking at this photo again....Just to hilight the differences or - lack there of, between Yellow cedar and boxwood.   These are two Winnie models,  One is Mikes and entirely made from Boxwood.  The other is mine and made nearly 100% from Yellow Cedar.

 

Aside from a very very slight difference in color they are so similar.   This is one of my favorite photos.   Just thought I would post as the Speedwell will be done entirely of Cedar with a few boxwood elements just like one of the models you see in this photo.  Cedar really does turn into a great looking model in retrospect. 

 

Chuck

 

[JeffT]

To be honest, I don't know which is which. They both look good to me.

[Oldsalt1950]

The lighter color is boxwood the slightly darker is cedar

 

Jim

[AnobiumPunctatum]

I have both woods in my stash. Boxwood is harder than yellow cedar. Bother timber you can combine with holy and a light colord pear.

I think it is a personal decision which timber you use. As Chuck has to have a look at the costs of the parts/model he offers, his choice is excellent.

I like to work with both timbers.

[Chuck]

Continuing with the stem/keel assembly....

 

The remaining sections of keel were added working my way aft.  The keel is actually two layers.  I added one layer at a time.  Each segment is numbered.   The numbers face inward so when the two layers are glued up you cant see them.

 

Here is the entire keel all put together.   Each segment remember is in two layers and I added them one layer at a time trying to get real nice and tight scarphs.   Its not difficult when done in layers.

 

I also added the false keel.  This is the thin strip on the bottom.  This was done with 1/8" wide strips the same depth as the keel.   I simulated the seams with a pencil.  There is still no finish on these parts so it will really look great once I add some wipe on poly.

 

On the aft section you will see a small step where the rabbet strip will end.   You will probably need to adjust where this is.  I made the parts so this was a bit forward of where it should be.  Just lay the keel assembly as it stands on top of the plan and mark the exact location for this slanted step.  Then use a sharp chisel or #11 blade to cut this step in the exact location.

 

Also note that the false keel may seem a bit wide top to bottom.  I have done this intentionally.  It is about 1/32" larger than needed.  I have found that the false keel when made of cedar will take a beating throughout the project.  It will get dented etc.   Even if you tape it to protect it.  So I made it slightly taller so I can sand the bottom of the keel down smooth much later in the project.  Just to smooth out any creases and dents.

The Rabbet...

 

The rabbet is done as I typically do on all of my projects.  I realize the rabbet is a complex organism of sorts.  It should have a "V" shape with and ever changing profile depending on how the hull planking enters it.   I usually make a mess of that if carved with a chisel.  Those of you who have the Speedwell books from Seawatch can see how Greg did this.  He is much more handy with a chisel than I am.

 

So this will be simplified and should you choose to add the garboard hull plank will mostly be covered anyway.   Using a simple strip here is neat and clean.

 

The one thing I have done differently this time is I laser cut the curved sections at the bow in two lengths.   See the photo below.  The two lengths are already glued on the stem assembly but I also show some extras on the table for clarity.   They are 1/16" thick.  The longer segment goes on first and is centered port to starboard.   This will leave a nice lip on both sides.  Then the shorter laser cut rabbet strip is added.   No need to sand the laser char off these.

 

The remaining rabbet strip that works itself aft is just made using a 7/32" x 1/16" cedar strip.  It ends at that slanted step you so carefully chiseled just a moment ago.

 

The Upper and Lower Aprons...

 

Now these pieces you have no doubt seen being made on many POF model.   The upper apron is nothing special.   Its a plain segment that is 3/8" thick.   Simple enough.  The LOWER apron is a different story all together.  It is much more complex.  You have probably seen folks hand chiseling tiny steps into both sides of the lower apron...once again take a look at Volume one of the Speedwell books.

 

I wanted to simplify this however.  Not because it could be difficult to do but because I know that most folks dont have vertical mill, or disc sanders or all the gadgets you often see when folks make the lower apron.

 

I have decided to make the lower apron using many separate parts instead.   Looking ahead to adding the forward cant frames, each set of cant frames has a different angle sanded into the heel of it.   This is so it can be "canted" forward.   This is simply not going to work to easily if you dont have a disc sander.  So I created small wedges with the angles already pre-set on them to accept straight right angled heels on the cant frames.

 

I hope that makes sense.

 

See below.  The upper apron is in front...easy peasy.  Set that one aside for now.  The lower apron is laser cut with a series of steps.  On these steps we will glue the pre-angled wedges.  But using this approach leaves the bottom of the lower apron very thin even at this scale.  It can easily break or get misshapen.  So I have laser cut the "stepped" lower apron attached to a sacrificial piece of wood.   You can use it as a handle.  DO NOT remove the lower apron from this "handle" until all of the little angled wedges are glued to it.  Those will give it enough strength...a remarkable amount of strength actually.  In the photo below I have already added two of the laser cut wedges which show the angles for the cant frames.  Check your plans as these are prominently shown.  Work from the aft side forward.

 

Each angled wedge is made on two layers.   They have laser etched numbers on them and correspond to the plan.  Gle the two layers together with the numbers facing each other.  This is important.   Glue the two halves together "number facing number".   The next to be done for me are the parts marked "7 & 6" in that photo.   I will glue them together now.

Once glued together with the numbers facing each other,  you could make life easier for yourself later by cutting them down a bit.  Once the two pieces are glued together they are too tall.  This doesnt matter at all but if you trim them to match the plans it will be so much easier to fair the inside of the hull when the time comes.   The Keelson will fit so much nicer on top of this when the time comes.  Below you can see me doing just that.  With a sharp blade I am trimming the top to match the plans.   Make sure you have the piece facing the correct way.  Place it on the plan and draw a line where the top portion can be shaved away.  Do this for every piece...I know its a pain.  But you will thank me when it comes time to add the cant frames later. 

When all of the segments are glued onto each step of the lower apron base,  you can finally cut away the bottom handle.  It was held on by just a few connectors which are easily cut with a sharp blade.  Hopefully you glued those wedges onto each step securely and didnt skimp on the glue.  Glue each onto its step and also to the wedge proceeding it.  Nice and secure.  Center them down the top of each step.   Dont mix up the numbers either.  That would be bad because the angles match each individual cant frame.  I also sanded the top of all those wedges so it looks nice and neat.  It also matched the shape for the lower apron shown on the plans.

 

Note that you should not remove any of the laser char on the angled sides of these wedges.  Not only would that screw up the angles laser cut into each of them, but it would also reduce their size.   That should be avoided.

 

A dry test fit of the upper and lower aprons on the keel assembly below.  trying my best to match the curve.   Use the plan to find the exact location for the aft edge of the lower apron along the keel.  You dont want it too forward or even too aft.   Place the keel assembly on the plan and mark where the exact locations are for the upper and lower aprons.  Note how the upper apron extends above the rabbet strip.

 

Note how the aprons are wider than the keel.   The aprons should be centered on the rabbet strip leaving a nice over hang on both sides.

 

 

Still no finish applied to these parts yet.  I will do that once the entire keel/stem assembly is completed.  Thats it for today!!!

 

 

Any questions?

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

Brilliant idea on those angled wedge pieces for the frames! 

[AnobiumPunctatum]

This is a really interesting way to build the deadwoods, which I have not seen before.

[Chuck]

Thanks,  yes this is something new.  This lower apron will be mostly covered up in its entirety so I thought to try something new.  It looks like it will work out nicely and make placing those cant frames in position so much easier with out needing a disc sander.  There will be a corresponding jig for the top of the cant frames as well.  Stay tuned.

 

fingers crossed

 

 

[Rustyj]

That is really great Chuck. I always have trouble trying to get those angles correct. Usually failing miserably.

[bdgiantman2]

On 11/14/2022 at 11:47 AM, Chuck said:

Like the Longboat kit and Barge kit,  its tough for me to meet demand.   I wont discontinue any kits but think of them like the McRib sandwich.  It may be months if not a year before I find the time to make more of them and have enough wood to do so.

McDonald's was the first job I had,  and I do remember the hysteria of some customers over that sandwich.  I agree it was overrated for what you got.

[dvm27]

Well I wondered how you were going to approach those difficult apron and (presumably) stern deadwood steps. That is a brilliant solution and insures those cants will seat at the exact location and angle required.

 

Here's a mind bending thought exercise. If one did not possess a laser cutting machine would your framing method be easier or more difficult than the techniques described in our Speedwell book? I'd have to really ponder that one.

[Chuck]

Its hard to say Greg.  I often think about that myself.   Its similar to another thought I always ponder.   Is it that much more difficult to produce say the lower apron traditionally with a vertical mill or by hand with a chisel?   The laser cutter is basically just another tool in the workshop.  Like a shereline mill.   Having none of those,  how would that change the difficulty level or possible design concepts.  

 

I imagine if you had none of these tools and had to make the lower apron entirely by hand,  then either design concept would be a challenge indeed.   Now using a 3d 5 axis cnc machine to make the lower apron would certainly change it up even further.   With that tool I could make the entire lower apron in one piece with the steps and angles.   But then it would be more like a plastic kit and merely an assembly of parts at that point.  Not much of a challenge or rewarding.

 

So my hats are off to the folks who do this stuff entirely with a chisel in hand, like the original builders of contemporary models. 

 

Chuck

[druxey]

Most ingenious, Chuck!!!! You certainly are a creative problem solver. Well done.

[Stuntflyer]

2 hours ago, Chuck said:

Is it that much more difficult to produce say the lower apron traditionally with a vertical mill or by hand with a chisel? 

The only experience I've had is when I worked on Hayling. I used the mill and a chisel for the deadwoods and it was not hard to do. Doing the work with just a chisel is not something I would have felt confident about. The cant frame angles where done with the disc sander. A machinist square was used to check positioning. I think this is a very good way to go about it as long as one has the tools.

 

https://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_2017_07/_DSC7015_sfw.jpg.18912c6b190c9821774c65e2d545a7d3.jpg

 

[bdgiantman2]

If good at using a scroll saw it could be done, but most likely wouldn't have as pretty an outcome as this laser product and a time-consuming attempt. Having wood files and proper sanding blocks are a big help either way. 

 

I personally have never used chisels building a model ship and honestly hesitant to try.  

[Stuntflyer]

3 minutes ago, bdgiantman2 said:

I personally have never used chisels building a model ship and honestly hesitant to try.  

I felt the same way at first only to eventually find out just how useful they can be. You could start small.

 

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/chisels/72391-veritas-miniature-chisels?item=05P8501

[glbarlow]

My three Veritas mini-chisels are among my favorite and most frequently used tools, especially as I now know how to keep them sharp. I also really enjoy my Proxxon mill and use it a lot. That’s not to say I could use either to successfully complete this particular task.

 

[Maury S]

Very nicely done, indeed.

Maury

[Seventynet]

Similar to Mike I used my mill and chisels (mainly to square out corners) to make the deadwood on the Hayling Hoy. I think I achieved quite clean cuts. 

Ian

[Chuck]

The Rising wood....

 

This is the long notched piece that sits on top of the rabbet strip.  This was added next.  It has notches cut out of it to accept the floors of each square frame.   This is cut in two lengths.  Put the shorter forward length in place first.  I would not sand anything off as far as laser char.  Only sand the small connector that held it into the sheet.  This is a thick piece.  It is 3/8" thick.  The laser may not have cut through in some places like the corners.  So before you try and just push this piece out of the sheet,  look at both sides to see if you need to use a sharp blade to cut some corners all thru etc.  

 

 

If you want to sand anything you might want to touch up the end that will be the seam between both lengths.  Try and squared it up a little.  But dont sand too much.   You dont want to make it any shorter than it should be.  They were left a bit longer at this joint so you can clean it up and get a tight fit.  

 

 

Make sure you dry fit both pieces on top of the actual plan sheet.  You want the length overall to match pretty darn close.   After you get the forward section on first...dry fit the last aft length while its on top of the plan.   This way you can see if you must shorten the forward end a bit at the joint between the two pieces.  It should match the plans very closely.  As you can see I didnt touch the inside of the notches.  But I did sand the char off the top and the sides once it was on the keel assembly.  

 

The rising wood, like the aprons are wider than the keel.  So make sure you center these on both sides when you glue them in position.  You want an equal over-hang of the keel on both sides.

 

Next up is the stern deadwood...still no finish applied to these pieces.

 

 

[druxey]

Was notching both for floors and first futtock cross-chocks a deliberate choice , Chuck?

[Chuck]

Yes..to help with locking them in position and keeping all the frames aligned.  It takes the guesswork out of it.  But I could have easily gone with every other frame.  Less room for error.  
 

Since none of that will be seen anyway I figured why not give folks a little more assurance.  There is no mistaking where each frame goes this way. 
 

The frames will also be locked in position along the tops as well.  So its pretty much “build a frame and put in place..”.

 

It all worked out nicely on the test cross section.

 

 

 

[druxey]

Excellent, Chuck!

[Maury S]

Chuck, You've become a master at designing and executing.  I think we're all amazed and thrilled at what you are doing!

Maury

[Chuck]

Thank you for saying!

 

Just finishing up the stem/keel assembly as we speak.

 

Chuck

[Chuck]

Happy Thanksgiving guys.

 

The deadwood is laser cut in two pieces.  These two pieces need to be tapered to 7/32" thick along the edges that sit against the keel and sternpost. To make this easier,  I cut some masking tape to a 7/32" wide strip.  In this case it was red tape.  I then centered it down the edges that needed to be tapered.  Then I proceeded to taper them gradually from the other side to the edges of the tape.

 

One that was finished I glued the larger, lower deadwood piece into position first.  This was followed by the stern post which had its laser char removed.   You must be careful when gluing both of these.  They must be centered on the keel to leave a consistent ledge all around and the sternpost needs to be perfectly vertical.  You want it vertical and in line with the stem at the forward end.

 

This only left the smaller section to be added which was then glued into position.  The aft end of the keel was intentionally left a bit longer and this was sanded flush with the aft edge of the sternpost.  

 

The only parts still remaining were the many wedges for the aft cant frames.  These are done exactly like those on the lower apron.  They are laser cut from thicker pieces of cedar so check that they were cut all the way through the sheet before removing them.  They were also cut slightly longer than needed.  Because they are so thick, you will notice the irregular cut on the forward and aft edges of each wedge after you glue the two layers together.   You must sand them flat and straight evenly on the forward and aft edges before fitting them on top of the deadwood steps.   Dont sand too much...only a bit of cleaning on both sides is needed.  Dont sand the char off of the angled sides to preserve the correct angles.  Center them atop the deadwood slots so you have a consistent notch on both sides of the deadwood for the aft cant frames.

 

That finished up the keel/stem assembly.  I only need to add the bolts along the keel scarf joints.  Then it will be time to construct the build board and start making frames.

 

 

Again ...Happy Thanksgiving!!!

[Oldsalt1950]

Really nice work Chuck. Happy Thanksgiving !

 

Jim

[Trussben]

Looking good Chuck!

[Stuntflyer]

3 hours ago, Chuck said:

The deadwood is laser cut in two pieces.  These two pieces need to be tapered to 7/32" thick along the edges that sit against the keel and sternpost.

Is this a straight taper or does it curve?

[Chuck]

Straight to begin with is fine

 

…but after your frames are all in position and you fair the hull, the deadwood should be faired into the general shape of the hull that you are familiar with.  
 

It should have a curved shape following the contours of the hull.  Picture a curved “V” shape when viewing the stern dead on.  Not very drastic at all but its there.

 

You dont want to guess initially at this stage.  At least I prefer not to.  So while fairing the frames and hull, care will be taken to achieve the proper curved shape.  its easier for me to visualize the shape at this time.