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better to take the time off now and recover completely, than to go to work too soon and have a relapse. 

 

Jim

 

Current Build: Fair American - Model Shipways

Awaiting Parts - Rattlesnake

On the Shelf - English Pinnace

                        18Th Century Longboat

 

I stand firmly against piracy!

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Chuck, you do deserve to catch with life and health. Your Admiral (Wife/Lady) is a wise one.

I do enjoying making my own rope using your tool. This way I can experiment and make more when needed at the moment.

Blocks is another story, that is what I will be back for later on.

 

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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Thanks for the well wishes…

would you guys be interested in dark brown deadeyes that dont require dying?

 

These are just like my current build them yourself deadeye kits.  
 

3mm thru 7mm

 

brown deadeyes.jpg

There are just two layers for each deadeye.  Just glue the two halves together for seven deadeyes at a time with thin set CA and remove them from the spru.  Then tumble them to suit .  
 

They are super crisp.

 

I like how Greg dyed my blocks on Speedwell and I am trying to develop a full line of blocks and deadeyes that dont require messy dying.  

 

I want to use them on my Speedwell when I rig her.  Here is Gregs model with deadeyes dyed with Fibings dark brown.

 

DSCN8208.JPG

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They do offer a darker brown in this material but I selected this medium color for the test.

 

I think I am going to have to replace all the deadeyes on my Winnie now.

 

The dyed deadeyes on the main channel look so muddy and non-descript by comparison.  Or maybe I should test the darker brown as well.  Anyway...

 

The details are so much more evident on these new deadeyes.  I will certainly go ahead and make a full compliment of these and blocks also for my Speedwell.   I will only start mass producing though if there is enough interest.  I hope so as I think these look so much better than the old ones.

 

brown deadeye  test.jpg

brown deadeye test1.jpg

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On 4/16/2023 at 4:40 PM, Chuck said:

The Admiral has given me orders so I dont get pneumonia.

Keep your mind and heart in good shape, Chuck - please pay closer attention to your body. Good advice from the Admiral.  

 

Ron

Director, Nautical Research Guild

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner)

Completed Builds: HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS GodspeedHMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

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I am resting....I am just playing in the shop.   Its when I have to make tons of parts that I get worn out.   I am just drafting some designs and solving some problems on the computer.

 

Its all good.   No inventory is being made today for sure.  Just a leisure slow day in the shop sipping tea.

 

Chuck

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On 4/16/2023 at 9:40 PM, Chuck said:

The Admiral has given me orders so I dont get pneumonia.  She has ordered me....

Remember, Chuck, what happened to Admiral Byng when he failed to follow orders to press home an attack on Minorca with all possible vigour. Orders form those in command are meant to be obeyed to the letter. Dose yourself up with something really powerful probably topped off with a scotch or two and let your creative thoughts run riot. Something very good will come of it. 

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Funny!!!   But I guess no good on the deadeyes???   No comments at all.

 

Good or bad so I dont waste my time any more.

 

 

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I like the dark deadeyes.  But the important thing is to take care of your health.  Like others have said, listen to the Admiral.

Ryland

 

Member - Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

            - Ship Model Society of New Jersey

               - Nautical Research Guild

       

 

Current Build - Armed Virginia Sloop, 18th Century Longboat

Completed Build - Medway Longboat

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While those deadeyes do look great, I do think all of us are more concerned about your health then deadeyes.   

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Chuck,  I think the deadeyes look great and very convincing, I do however like your wood ones and I’m partial to wood, even though it requires more work. I will try out some of your new ones just to see how they look in person but I don’t think they will make it on my winnie, she’s got a full compliment of fresh boxwood ones already, it will have to be my next project. 

Edited by scrubbyj427

Current Builds: HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 - 5th rate 32 gun frigate (on hold for now)

 

                         HMS Portland 1770 Prototype 1:48 - 4th rate 50 gun ship

 

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Just finished up a small batch of Syren deadeyes for a commission of sorts.   1/8"and 3/16"  deadeyes.   I used the new "Syrenite" material.   These were laser cut from black Syrenite.  Which would have been fine to use as is, but I prefer a dark brown...as well as my customer.

 

The finished black deadeyes were tumbled in a dark brown weathering powder for about 30 seconds.   Its really just a matter of tastes.   The black will show through slightly.

 

If you use them as is they are black...like ebony they look great.   To kick them up a notch and make them look rich with more depth...a quick brushing with some weathering powder really does the trick as well as giving a lustrous satin finish.

 

browndeadeyes.jpg

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From your picture I'd never know that those were not wood! The weathering powder really adds to the look. 

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

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Thanks Rusty...you could get this color by dying wood deadeyes too but its so messy and takes time.   This was easier.   I just placed them in my tumbler with some weathering powder.   Instead of sandpaper, a stiff cloth flap wheel buffed and colored them in about 2 minutes.

 

I am not sure folks can get over the fact that they are not wood but it doesnt make sense to me since its basically the same stuff that 3d prints are made from and everyone is using 3d printed parts these days.   I will be using this material and this color on my Speedwell for all blocks and deadeyes.  Even if I never sell them.  There doesnt seem to be any interest in them.

 

Chuck

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They do like quite nice; I'm curious would that material allow you (or someone) to make smaller deadeyes and blocks? I was thinking about your mini speedwell or similar scaled ships and it is a selfish ask as I'm starting to give a lot of consideration to these scales. I don't think I have room to display larger scale models - well maybe one more :-).

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I havent tried yet honestly.   The issue is they are so small they might fall into the machine or be very hard to keep from falling into places.   It would be very difficult to rig blocks smaller than 1.5 mm the traditional way.  Can you imagine stropping such small blocks?

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5 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Can you imagine stropping such small blocks?

Ha, certainly not - as long as it looks close enough from a reasonable viewing distance I'm good. That's a good point about becoming too small for the machine at a certain size.

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Chuck,  Ive been away from the Hobby and MSW for the last 9-months or so as I adjust to the new realities of teaching high school.   Ive been poking my head in a little now and then as I start preparing for two luxurious months off back in my shipyard and must say its comforting to see you still at it - amazing everyone with your innovations and selflessly working yourself to the bone to our benefit.   Congrats on the ten years - and get well soon!

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Hi Chuck.  Now that it seems you have recovered, I will say that I really like the new material and would love to use them instead of wood.  If I understand you, they are easier to use and can be made to look really amazing.  Please add my vote to the Syrenite column.

Current Build:

HMS Winchelsea 1:48 (Group Project)

 

Completed Builds:

Virginia 1819 Artesania Latina - 1:41 

 

 

 

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23 hours ago, Chuck said:

I havent tried yet honestly.   The issue is they are so small they might fall into the machine or be very hard to keep from falling into places.   It would be very difficult to rig blocks smaller than 1.5 mm the traditional way.  Can you imagine stropping such small blocks?

I can very well imagine stropping such small blocks. They would be neded in that size for my next project.

 

When you say that "they are the same material as used for 3D-printing", what does that actually mean? There are many different materials used for the different 3D-printing technologies. 

 

Talking about brown blocks and dead-eyes: have you ever tried to use phenolic resin, for instance Pertinax, as used in electric/electronic circuit boards etc.? It comes in different thicknesses and different shades of brown. It machines well and is easy to polish to nice sheen. The only draw-back is that the fumes from laser-machining are not particularly healthy.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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Thats why I havent used that Wefalck. Those fumes are deadly.   My shop and laser are well ventilated but it is a small space.   The stuff I am using is not harmful at all.  But yes it too has an unpleasant odor.  But its harmless.   The thicknesses available are limited however.   So I must get creative trying to cut the proper size blanks for making blocks.  I have my wood provider trying an experiment right now to see if he can thickness it to the many variations in thickness I normally would need.

 

I have my fingers crossed.

 

If it fails however,  I will still use this material for making many ship model parts...like the windows for speedwell.  Its very strong and allows me to go very thin without fear of them being too fragile.   

 

colortemplatetest2.jpg

 

I do have a fallback however to make dark brown or black deadeyes.  Not Ebony but just using blackened stabilized hornbeam instead.  The issue with that is of course availability.  It all comes from Russia and the Ukraine or Estonia and takes forever to to get shipments.  Its very expensive and not a reliable on-demand supply method.  So I am seeking out suppliers more local.   Should anyone know of anyone not in the EU and preferably in the USA or Canada that sells black hornbeam,  please let me know.   

 

Its doesnt have the strength and wont be able to go as small as with the "plastic Syrenite"  material,  but I could always use the thinner sheets available for the smaller blocks.   Its the larger sizes that are problematic....I can buy 1/4" thick stuff but it does not come in 3/16" or 5/32"  or 7/32"  thicknesses...so I would need to add many different steps to laser cut strips that thickness.   For example I need 3/16" x 3/32" strips for one of my blocks.   I would first need to laser cut strips to 3/16" x 1/4" from the 1/4" sheets and then redesign my files to use those to make blocks 3/32" thick.  Its just a lot of added steps and a lot more laser time than I would like.   Using Black Hornbeam eliminates these steps.   I just take a 3/16" thick sheet of black hornbeam and rip a bunch of 3/32" strips and I am done.

 

The Syrenite stuff only comes in 48" x 48" sheets or 4 x 8 sheets as well.   So handling and cutting smaller sheets that fit my laser cutter are a pain with the thicker stuff.   But the thin stuff cuts easy enough with a blade and a snap...

 

So there are a few kinks to work out.   

 

Chuck

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I really dont know its chemical makeup...I am keeping the commercial name close to the vest for now.  Never bothered to read the msds sheets.  Sorry.   Too much competition out there.   The moment I tell folks you will see just as many kit mfgs using it like they now do with polyback...or laserboard.

 

A guys got to have a leg up on the competition these days.

 

Chuck

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