Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper

[the learner]

WOW!

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 277 – Main Yard Boom Irons

 

The ironwork on the main yard continued with the fabrication and fitting of the boom irons, the supports for the topmast studdingsail booms.  The first picture shows two steps in the fabrication of the inner boom irons.

 

 

The large circular bands were first made to fit tightly in their positions on the yard.  The smaller bands were sized to be about 1" larger in diameter that the 8 ½" diameter of the boom center sections.  I used brass for the short arms between the rings – mainly because I had hard brass in that thickness.  Making these of copper would have simplified the blackening process later.  Because of the brass, these were blackened before installing on the yard, as will be seen below.

 

The next picture shows a yardarm with its banding and pieces for the end cap and strap that support the outer iron.

 

 

The straps were drilled first, then shaped as shown - in a vise with files, and then bent and clipped to the shape shown below.

 

 

The straps are secured with tight-fitting, stretched rings pressed over the ends of the yard as shown in the next picture.

 

 

The next picture shows the yard with the inner irons installed.

 

 

Only the brass-containing inner irons are black.  These were also fixed in place with a wire "bolt" – really a small wire nail in a drilled hole – riveted to hold the band on the underside of the yard.  The last items to be made were the outer irons – sometimes called "Pacific irons".  These consist of rings at the ends of bent iron bars.  The picture below shows the rings – same size as the inner rings – soldered to lengths of brass bar stock. 

 

 

The rings were fitted with a roller on the underside to ease the movement of the boom.  These were simulated by soldering a small bit of wire under each ring.  The lower assembly shows the soldering configuration before clipping off the excess.  A small round section was first filed out of the wire to help it fit to the band.  Again, making these of copper would allow the yard to be completely assembled before blackening, which would then be done using liver of sulfur solution.

 

The last picture shows the finished yard arm after blackening and installation of the outer iron.

 

 

Final assembly of the yard and finishing will be described in the next part.

 

Ed

[druxey]

So much ironwork! Beautifully executed, as usual, Ed. You are the iron-master.

[albert]

Very nice metal work, fantastic ship model.

[archjofo]

Hi Ed,

I always like to look into your report to learn.
In addition, it is very nice, the emergence of an absolute top model
to be allowed to watch.

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 278 – Completing the Main Yard

 

The first picture shows the main yard temporarily connected to the mast.  Most of the ironwork has been fitted.

 

 

At his stage the yard was ready for the copper ironwork to be blackened.  The brass-containing boom irons were pre-blackened before fitting.  The next picture shows the removed yard and the ironwork being cleaned with isopropyl alcohol using a cotton swab.

 

 

The wipe-on poly base coat resists the alcohol and allows any smudges to be removed and the copper to be degreased.  The next picture shows the yard after the liver of sulfur blackening process.

 

 

The blackening was done at the kitchen sink with tap water running.  The yard and its fittings were liberally brushed with liver of sulfur solution and immediately rinsed under the tap. Any unblackened spots were re-brushed while wet and again rinsed.  The yard was then allowed to dry.  The next picture shows a closer view of the dried yard, taken the next day.

 

 

The straight, black wire shown in the last two pictures, is the jackstay rod.  This was next slipped through the stanchions as shown in the next picture.

 

 

Straight .020" brass wire was used for this for its relative rigidity.  It was pre-blackened using full strength Brass Black^®.  The eyebolts were spun from 28 gage copper wire.  The fit is tight enough to keep the wire in place.  In the last picture the jackstays have been inserted and clipped off.

 

 

The outer boom irons have also been fitted and a finish coat of satin wipe-on polyurethane applied, using a foam swab shown in the picture.  The finish was "wiped" using a dry foam swab.  The finish was applied to wood and iron alike.

 

 

Ed

[dvm27]

Terrific  posting, Ed! It's amazing how well the wipe on poly resists smudging from alcohol and blackening solution. Blackening in place certainly solves the problem of damaging the metal finish during installation.

 

I note an additional iron band on the starboard yard plan that was not installed on the model (eighth from center). Illustration error?

[EdT]

Thank you, Greg.  The extra band on the starboard side of the yard was one of those little drawing glitches that have been corrected - or will be.

 

Actually the finish is more of a benefit in removing handling smudges than for protection from the LOS solution - unless there is metal powder on an untreated wood surface.  I had no problem using LOS next to untreated wood in all of the structural work on YA and Naiad.  Keeping the wood clean of metal dust from hands or buffing is key.  These spars take a lot of handling and its hard to keep hands clean during the concurrent metalwork - so the finish helps with that.  Using the separate mandrel where possible for fitting and buffing helps with that.

 

Ed

[BANYAN]

Another example of top-quality tradecraft - that yard looks great Ed.  I had been wondering how you cleaned the copper prior to the blackening agent - thanks again for the info.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[michael mott]

Hi Ed, not only is the 3 dimensional work of the highest calibre but looking at each photograph is also like a treatise on Descriptive Construction Drawings. It is so inspiring following along your build.

 

Michael

[EdT]

Thank you, Micheal.  I can assure you that the drawings are as much work as the model - maybe more - and 2/3 of that is checking and review.

 

Ed

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 279 – Main Yard Stuns'l Booms

 

The main yard was fitted with the two topmast studdingsail booms.  These supporedt the clews of the topmast studdingsails as well as the lower studdingsail yards that weresuspended from the ends of each when these sails were set.  The booms were 42 feet long and 8 3/8" in diameter over their center sections.  They taper to about 5 ¾" at the ends.  All the drawing dimensions are expressed in full size decimals to permit easy conversion based on scale.  The 1/72 converted sizes may be seen penciled on the drawing in the first picture.

 

 

The picture shows a finished boom and the "first trim" of the second – a squared length of Castello marked with centerlines and the two points at the ends pf the straight section.  The boom is grooved for jewel blocks at the outboard end and drilled for a lashing at the inboard end.  The inner hole was also used to fix a temporary tackle for hauling out the boom.  The next picture shows a finished boom set in the boom irons in the retracted position.

 

 

The booms were shaped by the process described in earlier posts, then polished and finished with wipe-on polyurethane as described earlier.   The next picture shows both booms lashed to jackstay stanchions at the inboard ends.

 

 

The next picture shows a close-up of a lashing.

 

 

I used untarred hemp for these and all lashings or fixings that would have been temporary.  Because of the offset of the booms from the yard centerlines and the gradual taper of the yard, the booms are actually deflected somewhat to pull them fast to the stanchion.  The last picture shows the end of the starboard boom after lashing on the two 9" jewel blocks.

 

 

The upper block handled the sheet for the topmast studding sail, the lower block the halyard for the lower stuns'l yard.  The outer iron is sized for the diameter of the boom's center section.

 

Ed

[SJSoane]

Ed, what an incredible essay into masting and rigging. The craftsmanship could not be better.

 

Small question, the lashing for the studdingsail booms seems quite fiddly when one thinks of someone up there trying to unfasten the knot at short notice. I would have thought they would have developed a quick release device, or a cleat allowing an easier tying or untying process. I am sure you have done your historical research, so this is just an idle reflection on their design thinking.

 

Mark

[wefalck]

if it had to be really fast: every sailor had a knife in a sheath on his back so that it could be reached by both hands ...

[Jeronimo]

Hello Ed,

just one word:

"Beautiful"

Karl

 

 

 

[EdT]

Thanks for these comments and likes.

 

Mark, the fastening you refer to is the heel lashing.  It was made with a short length of rope between an eye or a hole in the boom to the jackstay or one of its stanchions.  I believe topmen routinely carried a collection of small rope lengths for various uses - as well as the knife mentioned by Wefalck and other items.  The two most obvious temporary lashings on my model are the boom heel lashings and the tied-off reef tackle blocks.  Others were used in the various steps of bending or unbending sail. 

 

To extend the boom, a boom-jigger tackle was attached to the inner end and to a point further out on the yard.  The heel lashing was cut and the boom hauled out with that tackle where the inner end was again lashed down and the jigger removed.  To retract, the process was reversed.  In addition, when bending or unbending the yards' square sail, the studdingsail booms were unlashed at the inner end and that end hoisted up to clear the yard for the work of the yardmen.  These types of temporary lashing were used routinely.

 

Studding sails were used infrequently and eliminated altogether in the later clipper years when speed was less of an issue.  Setting these sails undoubtedly required some acrobatic efforts at the outer ends of the yards, but this work would normally be done in mild conditions.  As modelers, we do not often think much about the order of setting and taking in sail, but a definite order was prescribed.  Studding sails would be the last to be set as the wind died to near calm and the first to come down as it picked up - unlike, for example, reefing topsails - the last step as gale forces developed.  This process also required a lot of knotting of reef points.

 

Iron men in wooden ships.

 

Ed

[BANYAN]

Superlatives fail me with your continued impressive work at this scale Ed - I learn so much each time you post.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[slackwater]

Hi Ed,

 

I love the flexible screw clamps and would like to create them myself. I can't find a source for the .112" brass rods. I searched online many places and coming up with blanks. Have any suggestions for sources?

 

Thanks!

[the learner]

Ed, I see that you used twisted wires for both the stirrups and foot ropes have you covered this before and I missed why you used wire as opposed to rope? and would it not be better to use smaller diameter wire in groups of three to look more realistic as rope?

I have also read some where that the stirrup was actually nailed to the yard and wrapped around it 3 times before dropping down, can you show a clearer picture of how you attached the stirrup?

 

Thanks Guy

Edited April 7, 2018 by the learner

[the learner]

PS, your work continues to look fantastic as usual!

[wefalck]

 I guess wire is easier to coerce into shape ... I found it very difficult to twist three wires into a uniform 'rope', slight differences in tension make the wire with the least tension bulge ...

[EdT]

Thanks for the comments.

 

Slackwater, I made these over 20 years ago and appear to have used 7/64 rod.  The outer diameter of 4-40 threads measures pretty close the the diameter on my drawing.  I may have turned the rods, but cannot remember.  Sorry I can't help with a source.  I believe K&S makes 2.5 and 3mm rod.  May be worth a try.

 

Guy, the appearance of the footropes in closeup photos is a problem.  It does look like twisted wire.  It looks much better in real life but maybe that is my eyesight.  My choice of rope formula for the these is one of my regrets.  These are two-stranded linen rope.  Two stranded rope is Ok at smaller sizes and if tightly wound, but that shown on the 4 1/2" footropes it is less than ideal.  I did not have a three-strand formula for any sizes of linen - my choice for standing rigging.  In retrospect I should have used my three-strand cotton formula for these and have actually contemplated replacing them with that.  Not an inviting prospect, but it could be done.

 

I am sure there were different ways to attach stirrups.  I followed what I believe was standard practice of the time.  The stirrups are made with a spliced eye (no thimbles at this size) at each end, to a standard length of 3'6".  The upper eye is lashed to a jackstay stanchion and the footrope passes through the lower eyes.  I believe I showed how the stirrup eyes were made in an earlier post (Part 254).  The inner end of the footrope is lashed to a stanchion on the opposite side of the yard and the outer end is an eye over the yardarm or boom iron.

 

Ed

[Dan Vadas]

3 hours ago, slackwater said:

I can't find a source for the .112" brass rods.

Google is your friend . Here's a LINK to some 2.5mm, there are plenty of other sizes.

 

Danny

[stm]

Ed the way you secured the stirrups to the jackstays is the preferred method at that time in history. Normally directly to the eyelets or sometimes the bar. The questioned method described earlier of wrapping lines around the spar and then nailing, was the approach used when there were no jackstays on the spar to begin with.  In particular that was custom naval practice before jackstays came into use. The preferred method of mounting them to the spars, not sure if always done, was to have the jackstays placed a bit forward on the spar as opposed to center. I gather this would make it easier for the crew to furl sails without pulling up over the spar and to assist the sails fall when being unfurled. Jackstays also benefitted the crew as providing a handle when working on the spar. Whalers normally used wood jackstays and not metal. 

 

When you first look at the picture, one may mistake the footropes for wire since that is discussed frequently in the modelling world and our minds are programed to that, but I noticed a few very small strands on the lines. Your footropes and stirrups are very convincing and what you created looks very authentic. 

 

Scott

[EdT]

Thank you, Scott.  Yes the footropes and stirrups on the model are rope - as I said, in this case two-strand linen.  Three-strand would be better, even at some compromise on size.

 

Ed

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 280 – Main Yard Rigging 1

 

With the studding sail booms mounted, the next step was to attach much of the rigging at the workbench.  The first picture shows this bench work in progress.

 

 

The yard is mounted in a simple holding fixture for this work.   After some experimenting, the holding clamps are now lined with molded epoxy resin jaws.  The first step was to hang the footropes and stirrups.  The topping lift pendants may be seen dangling from the ends.  Also, most of the blocks have been lashed on in this picture.  The next picture shows a closer view.

 

 

The lashing of the footropes to stanchions on the opposite side of the yard near the center is shown in the next picture.

 

 

In the last picture, the lower topsail sheet chains have been threaded through the sheet block under the center of the yard and out through the fairlead irons and the cheek blocks at the ends.

 

 

The last item to be fitted after this picture was taken was the center sling chain.  This may be seen in the last picture that shows the yard connected to the mast.

 

 

The sling chain was pre-measured and shackled to eyebolts at each end.  One was pre-fit to the central yard band.  After hanging the yard, the mast was then marked and drilled for the other eyebolt so the truss would be horizontal.

 

Ed

[paulsutcliffe]

beautiful work as usual Ed

regards Paul 

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 281 – Main Yard Rigging 2

 

The first picture shows the main yard ready for the next rigging steps.  The taut chain sling may be seen in this picture.

 

 

The topsail sheet chains are hanging from the cloverleaf sheet block under the center of the yard.  As described before, these chains are linked over the central pin within the block to allow them to pull down on the yard using the two tackles soon to be added.  This also permits the chains to hang somewhat slack under the yard on their way to the cheek blocks at the ends.  The two triple tackles for the sheets are shown rigged in the next picture.

 

 

The lower blocks of these tackles are hooked to deck eyebolts just forward of the mast and the falls are belayed on the topsail sheet bits using the long horizontal belaying pins.  The next items to be installed are the clue garnets with the main sheet blocks, tacks and lazy tacks attached to a single large shackle.  The next picture shows the prefabricated gear for one side.

 

 

 

The large line is the tack that was used to haul the weather side of the sail taut.  The smaller line is the lazy tack, used to control the sail as it was switched from tacks to sheets while the yard was being braced when the ship tacked.  The large block is the sheet block.  The sheet will be added later.   At this stage outboard rigging – mainly braces and lower course sheets – would be an obstacle to the work and subject to damage.  The smaller attached block is for the clue garnet.  The standing end of that line is shackled under the yard, passes through this block, back through one sheave of the quarter block and belays on the main fife rail. The hooked double block in the picture is a quarter block.  The second sheave on this block takes the fall of the reef tackle.  The next picture shows these lines rigged. 

 

 

The tacks are belayed on cleats on the bulwark rails and the lazy tacks to the first pins on the main pin rails.  These remain unglued so they may be adjusted when the sheets are added later.  In the next picture the topping lifts, buntlines, leechlines and reef tackle have been added. 

 

 

The next picture shows a closer view of these lines.

 

 

The bunt and leech lines pass through single blocks hooked under the rim of the top, down through shroud fairleads and belay on the main pin rails.  The reef tackle falls pass under the yard, through the aft sheaves on the double quarter blocks, and belay on the fife rail below next to the clue garnets.  Next the bowlines.

 

 

 

Ed

[michael mott]

You Know Ed I can see Longridge coming over to your place and saying "right I wish I had done that".

 

Wonderful work simply wonderful work.

 

Michael

[stm]

Ed the close up picture concerning the sheet blocks and tacks look as though the lines/metal seizing's around the blocks are blue. Is that just the lines not fully dyed or the photo not depicting the actual color? At least that is how it looks on my machine.

 

Scott