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Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper


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After saws, chisels are the premier woodworking tools.  That is why I included the appendix on making them in Naiad Volume I.  I normally only use one or two - both straight types - but they are always out of the toolbox.

 

On the joggled planks I used a chisel on the margin plank and the disk sander on the planks.

 

David, acrylics can be airbrushed, but cleaning acrylics out of the airbrush can be a pain. Its not like watercolor or solvent based material.   I have airbrushed models - not ship models - with acrylics, enamels and Floquil - always in a small ventilated hood.  Air brushing is an acquired skill with a learning curve - as you may know.  I did not use it on YA for fear of overspray in places that would be impossible to clean.  I recommend a good brush for these models.

 

Micheal, I would take more overall photos, but that means cleaning up the shop.  Its bad enough having to sweep away clutter to take some of the close ups.

 

Thanks again for all the comments and likes.

 

Ed

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What!! (he says with surprise.)  Are shops supposed to be clean? Next you'll be saying it should also be kept orderly.

 

Heck, If I am supposed to keep it clean I might as well stay in the sunroom and not bother building a shop.

 

Richard

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 114 – Cabins, Brass Sheathing

 

With the forecastle essentially complete, I returned to the interior of the cabin deck.  The first picture shows the cabins on both sides completed.

 

post-570-0-39060300-1426685445_thumb.jpg

 

The poop deck framing has been installed back to the last cabins.  The curved wood block that will serve as the base for the circular seat and paneling is set in place.  This will close off the aft end of the cabin deck, separating it from the stern framing and the helm.  Note also that the double doorway into the cabin deck has been cut – once the poop framing was done.

 

I also started work on the main deck cabin.  The starboard fore and aft wall panel is being constructed in the next picture.

 

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The panel was made first from individual planks.  It has to follow the sheer of the deck.  In the picture the 4X4 plate that will support the roof rafters is glued on and 4X4 studs are being attached.  The next picture shows the framed wall in place for a trial fit.

 

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The doors and windows have been framed on the inside.  In the next picture they have been cut out.

 

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The exterior walls will be white.  I will do this painting before fitting the natural wood framing of the doors and windows.

 

This has all been a nice diversion from the brass sheathing of the hull, but I did not want to proceed further with details on the main deck without finishing the lower hull to minimize the need to upending the model.  The next picture shows the stamping tool for embossing nails on the brass plates.

 

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This was discussed in some previous posts.  The area on the right is used to stamp every plate.  The single row stamp to the left is used for the top dress course.  It needs a row of nails added at the top.

 

The plates are cemented down with contact cement, with the indentations up to simulate nails hammered into the plates.  These should more correctly be called sheets.  They were very thin.  Being nailed over a felt underlay would have left a decidedly quilted appearance.  In the next picture, a plate has been cemented and is being rolled down.

 

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This improves the bond with the contact cement, presses down the edges, and flattens out the indentations.  Glue is applied to one plate and its place on the hull at a time.  This is necessary to have glue on the overlaps.  Excess cement that can be seen on installed plates in this picture is easily removed later.

 

The last picture shows this work completed.

 

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The brass is very shiny.  It will dull with time, but I helped it along with some buffing with a Scotchbrite disc in a rotary tool – just enough to dull the glare a bit.

 

Work on the bottom framing can now be completed – adding any missing bolts, blackening the copper wire bolts, final poolishing and applying wax finish.  It may also be time for the stern lettering.

 

 

Ed

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WoW !!!

Such a stunning contrast from the black, to the buffed copper, and then the open frames.

CaptainSteve
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Thanks, guys.

 

Druxey, the grey Scotchbrite was cut to make a 1 - 1 1/2" circular disk, then fitted to a mandrel.  The edge was used to buff - very lightly - just enough to knock down some of the brass glare - 5 minutes for the whole area.  All excess cement removed first.   With the disk rotation down and aft, no problems picking up edges or corners.  The roller and having glue under the entire plate have the edges secured pretty well.  To pry some of them up for repositioning, I had to use a chisel to get a corner lifted.  With the indentions going in, the surface is very smooth.

 

Ed

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Beautiful workmanship again Ed, is about all I can add.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 115 – Rudder, Miscellaneous

 

The first picture shows the last bit of work on the interior cabin deck detailing.

 

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The curved seat/partition separates the cabin from the stern framing and leaves room for the rudder shaft.  All of this structural work aft of the partition will be hidden under poop decking.  As can be seen in a later picture, I decided to cover this rather austere seat with some upholstery.

 

With this in place the framing of the poop deck could be completed, including the fitting of the aft mooring bits and the boomkins shown in the next picture.

 

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These are 12" x 12" timbers, tied together and into stout carlings that I reinforced with knees as shown.

 

The helm port was previously drilled through the framing but now had to be drilled through the bottom planking and sized for the 16" diameter rudder shaft.  After drilling a pilot hole, the center of the full hole could be set with a still wire through the gudgeons as shown below.

 

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The hole was carefully enlarged with round files to fit the rudder.  The next picture shows the rudder hinges being fitted.

 

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The gunstock shaped rudder rotates on the axis of the wire in the previous photo.  The top gudgeon has been added over the paint.  The hinges were fit one-at-a-time.  The masking tape is to keep the woodwork clean of metal dust.

 

The dry transfer stern lettering can be seen in this picture.  It is not yet finished.  The G, C and K need to be replaced and I am awaiting delivery of some more letters.  However, the picture below shows what it will look like.

 

post-570-0-58884300-1427118219_thumb.jpg

 

I say what it "will" look like.  In the interest of full disclosure, I did a small amount of "photo shopping" on the three broken letters so I could use this picture.  Please excuse this.  The letters are quite small – 3/32" and 1/16".  When I get the replacement letters and successfully (hopefully) place them, the lettering will be sealed – probably with acrylic sanding sealer.  Right now they are easily scraped off.  I did a lot of that.

 

The next picture shows the fabrication of the iron rudder preventer in progress.

 

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There are four parts – silver soldered.  It has rather long horns.  These have been rough shaped.  The strapping still has to be thinned down and drilled for bolts.

 

The blackened preventer can be seen below on the installed rudder.

 

post-570-0-79018400-1427118220_thumb.jpg

 

The preventer was blackened with WinOx.  I have now disposed of all my remaining blue stuff in favor of this.

 

The rudder post in the next picture will be cut down later.

 

post-570-0-27028500-1427118221_thumb.jpg

 

The mooring bits and boomkins are being shaped in this picture.  I found it easier to do this after installation – using rounded files.

 

The last picture shows the present state of the stern.

 

post-570-0-82251800-1427118221_thumb.jpg

 

The poop deck is now ready for its two skylight coamings and decking.  Note that the portholes have been installed,   All of the work on the lower hull is now complete and it has been finished with wax.

 

Ed

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Bee-utiful work, Ed!

 

Were there lockers or storage in the stern behind the semi-circular panelling either side of the rudderahead? I would imagine ever inch of useable space to be taken advantage of. 

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Thats so beautiful and in Museum Quality Ed,

 

I love your sheating as well as the fitting out of cabins decks, interior, etc. 

A masterly made clipper-ship, well done in all details

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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What David said and I'll just add that she's beautiful Ed!

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

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Thank you, all.

 

Druxey, I had that same thought about storage behind the paneling.  That kind of space could well be used for passengers' baggage.  There was certainly little space for that in those tiny cabins.  All of this arrangement is speculative on my part, as is much of the stern framing detail.  While typical, that framing, may not have been accurate for Young America.  That is one of the reasons I am not keeping it visible.  Another reason is to  deck the aft part of the poop for the wheel and the helm housing that covered the rudder machinery.

 

Ed

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Ed, She looks great.  I'm surprised there is so little availible light in the cabin.  No side port holes back there, so just a skylight? 

It's amazing the relatively small rudder size considering the rudders on today's boats.  Not much considering the size of the ship.

Maury

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The wow! factor just went over the top... that appears to be button-tuck upholstery on the curved bench.  Even if it's not... still wow!!!!

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Thanks, again, everyone for all the comments and likes.

 

Nils, the sheathing is my least favorite job, so I am glad not to have decided to do the entire bottom.  It is very bright right now, but I am hoping it will dull down some.

 

Maury, there is one porthole in each cabin to give some light and air.  I do not know if YA had ventilators.  There are two large skylights over the main cabin area, so I am sure it was quite bright - and airy if they were opened.  Can't comment on the rudder, but I suspect it was sized adequately but no larger - to minimize drag.

 

Kees, no, I am only working for myself, but these days the employer is a slave driver.

 

Far from perfection, Crackers.  I do intend to rig the model, but no sails.  It will probably be as in the picture - with double topsails.

 

Yes, Mark, it is an attempt at button tuck green velvet upholstery.  The bare wood bench looked very plain.   The one resemblance I can attest to is that the button tucks fill up with sawdust the way my desk chair collects stuff.  I stopped short of doing bed mattresses however.

 

Unfortunately, part of yesterday - after the post - was taken up in dismantling and replacing the starboard boomkin and mooring bits due to a measuring error.  It showed up when I was fitting the margin plank. 

 

Thanks, again for all the interest.

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I have to echo the others the WOW factor is there.  Your patience and dedication paid off with a great looking model.  If you brought it to the contest in Manitowoc I know it would take gold and best of choice.

David B

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ed,

 

I just found this build log, and you are truly an amazing craftsman! You could even be called "King of the Mortise" considering the accuracy and beauty of your joinery. The knees look perfect. Again (as others have correctly stated) WOW! One question: at least some of the extreme clippers had moonsails (the 7th sail, on top of the skysail). Were these an option of individual captains, or did they need to be included in the original drafting to make it to the ship?

 

Bill

My library will never be complete, and my fleet will always be growing

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Bill,

 

Young America was equipped with a moonsail on the main mast - a 26'-4" yard.  With her original single topsail rig, this would have been the sixth sail.  With her later double topsails it would be the 7th.  Both surving photos of her show double topsails and no moon sail.  These were probably taken in the 1870s or 80s. 

 

Rigs were often - usually - determined by captains or owners - sometimes in spite of builder opposition.  Some were even influenced in their original construction by captains assigned to that by owners.  A famous example is the assignment of Rob Waterman - perhaps the most famous of captains - to the construction of Webb's Challenge.  As was common with captains, Waterman insisted on excessive sparring.  This may have accounted for her less than stellar performance on the first voyage.  She did much better under later captains.  Sparring usually evolved after original construction as a ships' performance became better defined.  Excessive - and dangerous - over-sparring was a common occurrence with the extreme clippers.  Many of these lofty rigs - and the men on them - were carried off by the wind.

 

Ed

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Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 116 – Bow Decoration

 

Young America's bow decoration is interesting for a number of reasons.  Each side is different.  Just aft of a billet decorated with greenery, the carved figures rest mostly on the waist planking and partially on the base of the billet.  There were no headboards, so it is not clear how these were mounted on the original ship – much less how to mount them on the model -  due to the angle between the two surfaces.  Also, unlike the gilded stern decoration, the figures at the bow were painted in natural colors.  All this, like many other aspects of the ship, is based on Bill Crothers research.

 

After some unsuccessful attempts to fashion a wood base in the angle, I finally decided to sculpt these as six separate pieces, then fit them together on the bow.

The first picture shows the initial figures, sculpted with MagicSculpt® on wax paper taped flat on the pattern sheet.

 

post-570-0-55914000-1428264197_thumb.jpg

 

The figures are quite small.  The starboard side features a female figure – presumably Liberty – with a shield flanked by draped flags.  On the port side an American Eagle is substituted for the female figure.  Below is the sculpted female figure before any post-hardening refinement.  The points on the flag staffs are thumb tack points.

 

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The next picture shows some refining of the sculpture using a very small chisel.

 

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In the next picture the fragile greenery has been lifted off the waxed paper, laid on the billet and touched with a drop or three of thin CA.

 

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Refinement of the greenery was done after being glued on.  In the next picture the three port figures have been fitted and glued on with CA.

 

post-570-0-37710300-1428264201_thumb.jpg

 

The figures were set into soft sculpting material placed in the angle between the billet and the side, than pushed into a fit.  Some modification of the parts was needed for this.  The sculptures must leave clearance for the square bowsprit to slide in and out.  Excess material was removed.

 

After attachment, the figures were primed with thinned flat black enamel.  The entire hull was given one last coat of acrylic paint and the figures were painted using acrylic gouache.  The next picture shows the starboard decoration.

 

post-570-0-32934000-1428264202_thumb.jpg

 

The next picture shows the port side.

 

post-570-0-86818700-1428264203_thumb.jpg

 

The greenery is actually brighter with light highlights than shown in the photos.  The next picture, from dead ahead, shows both sides.  Photos like these and closer ones were very helpful in judging the paint job and suggesting improvements.  The model went back and forth a few times for these.

 

post-570-0-98474300-1428264204_thumb.jpg

 

The acrylic gouache used for painting the figures dries dead flat, causing an almost two dimensional appearance in the photos – especially in the close ups.  I may give these a coat of semi-gloss medium, perhaps the acrylic sanding sealer I used over the stern lettering.

 

Speaking of that, I received the second order of dry transfers, so I was able to correct the letters that were photo shopped in the last post.  The last picture shows the repaired letters – unadulterated.

 

post-570-0-48648100-1428264205_thumb.jpg

 

This picture was taken before the final repair on the C.  After repair the dry transfer letters were given a coat of diluted sanding sealer.   I am also quite happy with the final black finish on the hull – shown in this picture.

 

With all this work done, the lower framing was given a last coat of wax, so the model should not have to be inverted again, I hope.  This will allow me to get on with work on the upper deck – cabins, etc.

 

Ed

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