Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF

[michael mott]

Thanks for all the likes

 

managed a little more work on the supports this evening.

 

The first picture shows the adjusting screw it is 1 1/2 inch in diameter and the threaded collar is rotated with a 1/2 inch bar inserted into one of the 4 holes.

 

 

 

In order to ensure that the holes were at right angles to each other I set up a couple of bars (scrap stainless steel out of a used wiper blade) to support the 1/2 inch bar before drilling the other hole.

 

 

The stern support are only needing the swivel pads and then a bit of clean up on the bolts then I can move on to the bow supports

 

 

 

Michael

[Bedford]

A true craftsman in every aspect of the build.

[usedtosail]

Michael, I was nervous just seeing that bare metal so close to your excellent paint job. Those supports look great, though.

[popeye the sailor]

such a cool idea.........an adjustable slip.   does this mean that there's another build on the horizon? 

[michael mott]

Bedford, Tom, Denis, thanks for your kind words. Al those who added likes thank you they are appreciated.

 

Tom the ends were making me cautious as well.

This ought to calm you down

 

 

 

 

Denis the idea of an adjustable slip actually seems like a great one, it had not occurred to me that way. There will be some leather wrapped over the wood block., I am pleased with the way they work. They are part of a new way of supp0rting the model to replace the little stand it is presently sitting on.

 

Denis there is definitely another build on the horizon. I have the plans for an 8 foot Shamrock V, by Rene Sarao of Nova  Scotia as one option.

 

Michael

 

[Omega1234]

Bedford, Tom, Denis, thanks for your kind words. Al those who added likes thank you they are appreciated.

 

Tom the ends were making me cautious as well.

This ought to calm you down

 

IMG_4380x800.jpg

 

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IMG_4384x800.jpg

 

Denis the idea of an adjustable slip actually seems like a great one, it had not occurred to me that way. There will be some leather wrapped over the wood block., I am pleased with the way they work. They are part of a new way of supp0rting the model to replace the little stand it is presently sitting on.

 

Denis there is definitely another build on the horizon. I have the plans for an 8 foot Shamrock V, by Rene Sarao of Nova  Scotia as one option.

 

Michael

 

 

Hi Michael

 

I was also nervous about the metal being that close to your paint, initially as well!  This sounds like a good solution.

 

Also, the prospect of a Shamrock V coming from your slipway, would be fantastic!  RC in that one, maybe?

 

All the best!

[Mirabell61]

Michael,

 

the adjustable chuck blocks and the stand supports for your cutters  "winter Depot" place look great. They compete with those in the actual boats shed, very realistic, well done !

 

Nils

[usedtosail]

Whew! Thanks. That is a very professional looking stand.

[popeye the sailor]

leave it to you,  my friend,  to raise the bar on the slip as we know them.   looking at your idea,  I'd bet that anyone could come up with something that would suit their needs.  I definitely will look into something like what you have done.......it's just toooooo good not to look into it     never quell those thoughts of yours.........your a very innovative person!

 

I'll look forward towards your next build!

 

 

you should market this one.............."The Motts Slip"

[pete48]

Very impressive  Michael, Beautifully done . Great pics

 

Best Regards,

Pete

[michael mott]

Thank you all for your comments and likes.

 

I was not happy with the way the brass square nuts were looking, so made the decision this morning to replace them with blued steel ones, this entails a bit more work but I prefer the results. the only thing is i also need to make the washers as well now because the nuts on the wood are not good practice.

 

The new steel nuts are first bored then the top surface is shaped with a file as the steel is spinning, then parted off and tapped in the vice, by tapping the nuts after they are parted off I can use the first tap only and there is very little clogging because the tap distance is short. after the nut is tapped then it is put onto a threaded mandrel and buffed. then while still on the mandrel it is heated through the tempering colours until the purplish  blue is reached then quenched in water and then oiled.

 

 

I added the leather to the wood blocks and also the retaining screws for holding the wood to the swivel plate.

 

 

There is a few more hours of making the nuts before moving on to the bow supports.

 

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

[Jim Lad]

Now that looks very 'swish', Michael!

 

John

[Nightquest1000]

Outstanding Craftsmenship.

[themadchemist]

Nice work Michael.

Is there enough wood thickness to mortise a recess for the nuts to sit down in, rather then using a washer?

or would that sacrifice strength and integrity in the wood?

 

If "looks" are what you going for, I think the washers would detract from that, but that is just my opinion.

 

BTW, what type of oil did you coat them with? and how protective/non-scratch resistant is this method of oil/coating?

Sorry for all the questions, but I've never seen bluing done this away before. I've only seen chemical or electrochemical bluing, as is done with guns.

 

Thanks, for once again opening my mind to new techniques and ideas.

[kees de mol]

In Dutch we say 'Dat ziet er echt heel gaaf uit'

[michael mott]

Thanks to one and all for looking in and the kind words and all the likes.

 

Keith, The washers will be brass so there will still be a contrast colourwise. I could counter bore but then it would be harder to tighten the nuts without a special wrench. the finish is pretty durable for what it is a thin oxide coating at the surface of the metal. the only reason for quenching in oil it so that the steel doesn't rust. the oils is just left over drainings from adding 10 w 30 to the care engine. I always drain the oil into a glass jar for oiling the machines.

 

Michael

[themadchemist]

I've also seen where oil quenching is used on sword blade forging and the reason they claimed it was used was it provided less shock to the metal and reduced heat stressed cracking from sudden cooling. In that case it was to prevent metal shock rather then the coating, which is honed off later. I guess I've just not seen it used this way before and find it interesting. BTW, a save my used oil also, waste not, want not.

 

I was thinking the nut would seat in an equal sized mortise, which would eliminate needing a wrench, or would that twist into the wood too much. I thought it didn't look to be a high torque tighten so marring the wood wouldn't be an issue. The brass washers and blackish square nuts should be a nice contrast though.

[michael mott]

Keith the thing with the nuts is that there is one on each side and the bar through the wood is a piece of 3/32 brass rod that is threaded at both ends.

 

Michael

[themadchemist]

Ah, that makes a difference then, I wondered as the picture can only be seen from one side, I figured they had heads on the opposite side.

The brass washers, blackened square nuts and threads brass will look good together and without heads there will be symmetry from side to side.

 

Thanks for fielding all my crazy questions, I use to drive teachers crazy in school also, I'm sure. but you can't learn if you don't ask.

[michael mott]

managed a little more work on the cradle this evening. the longitudinal beams 12x10 were cut from some clear fir and they were mortised into the cross beams.

 

 

 

 

 

The cutter is now supported by the new pads and is quite stable, more so than the former cradle.

 

Michael

 

 

[Nightquest1000]

Hi Michael,

 

I have a question that goes right back to the beginning of your log. How did you  manage to get a perfect clean deck, when using coloured woodglue?

 

best regards

Tom

[michael mott]

Good morning Tom.

 

Hopefully these two photos will help, the glue was first diluted just enough to be able to be squeezed out of a large diameter hypodermic needle #25 the needle needed to be filled a few times for each run. I was able to lay the needle in the v groove between the planks and drag the needle toward the stern while squeezing the glue out. It was nerve wracking for sure because I did not want to spill any. the glue shrank when it dried so there were at least three applications of glue. 

 

 

Once the glue was fully cured I used a cabinet scraper to remove the lumps and blobs.

 

 

I have to admit that mini me helped in the tight corners  

 

 

Michael

[Elia]

Michael,

 

I spent a good part of one day this past weekend catching up with your log here.  Boy oh boy the cutter looks good.  I think the black/red color scheme is spot on and appropriate...it looks quite sharp.  I hadn't considered the ballasting weight required for such a large model (hull/volume), and thus the need for the transport/launch cradle.  Very interesting!  Lastly - but not least - your metal fabrication work is always quite impressive.  One wouldn't know it wasn't full size if they weren't clued in.  Very very nice.

 

Cheers,

 

Elia

[cog]

You keep improving, and extending. Love the way she looks right now.

[gjdale]

Your sense of humour matches your modelling skills Michael. When mini me is finished over there, send him my way for a while would you - I've just the job for him!

Edited September 23, 2014 by gjdale

[themadchemist]

So there's mini you for the pilot cutter and Giants sailing Maria, hum ... so, when do you show us your cloning project photos    

[cog]

'Mini me' didn't age that much ...!?

[Owen Ball]

 

Hi Michael, this is my BCPC 1:20 now busy with the radio control, your build fascinates me especially with the bigger scale

Kind regards

Owen

[druxey]

Nice modest 'selfie', Owen! Your model isn't half bad, either.

[Omega1234]

Nice modest 'selfie', Owen! Your model isn't half bad, either.

 

That's exactly what I thought as well, when i saw you hiding behind your IPad!!! Beautful model, too.