HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype

[Chuck]

I did start working on the model again today.  Nothing big.  I just fabricated the boarding ladder steps today.  I made a scraper with the profile I wanted and then cut the steps from the strip.  I was careful to angle the back side so the top of each step was flat and not angled once held against the hull.  There are three steps per side although one is on the wales so its impossible to see after you paint it black.  Maybe if I adjust the camera settings a bit.  The sides of each step were filed to mimic the front profile and then they were glued into position.  I had to cut away some molding for the top step.  The top of each step is deeper than the bottom.   I started with a 3/32" x 3/32" boxwood strip.

 

Chuck

 

 

 

[rafine]

Chuck, it seems like there should be at least one more step. It is about 2 1/2  feet from the top step to the rail.

 

Bob

[Chuck]

I am just following the original draft. Its identical.   I dont want to make stuff up,  I am being 100% faithful to the original draft.  I agree but it seemed to have not bothered the designer.

 

[michael mott]

Ergonomically it makes sense the way it is from a balance point of view, one step higher and then it would be easier to lose your balance swinging over the rail. because you would be too high.

 

Nice profile Chuck.

 

Michael 

[druxey]

There will also be 'guest ropes' to grab as you climb those steps. If you look at Chuck's version of the draught, you will see two stanchions for these ropes on either side of the steps.

[Chuck]

Today I tackled the channels.  No easy way to make these.   You just have to go old school.   These are unlike the channels most have grown accustomed to.  These are much thicker (5/32") and they are not as wide.  When viewed from the side they gradually get thinner buy a little bit.  The bottom is beveled or angled so the outboard edge is just 1/8" thick.   Maybe a hair thicker.

 

Note how the usual cover or cap molding isnt shown.  Basically small notches are filed into the edge and the chainplates will be bolted to the edge.   Many cutters show this feature but there are other arrangements too.  But I figure the original draft should be followed here.  Its an interesting feature.

 

Then the profile along the edge is made old school with a round file, sanding sticks or whatever you are comfortable with.  Note how the gunport splits the channel in two lengths and the edges in the break are not profiled.

 

I had hoped to make the eyebolts and chainplates today but I dont have enough brass strip so it has been ordered.   While I wait I will continue finishing up the outboard details like the scuppers and rudder.  The channels are not glued on yet as I await arrival of more material.  They will be finished up first with eyebolts.

 

The outboard details shouldnt take very long to do.

 

 

 

 

 

[Jim Lad]

Very nice, Chuck.  The details of cutters are very interesting.  You only have to look at a few before you realise just how much variation the was in these little ships.

 

John

[Chuck]

The channels are in and I added the eyebolts to the exterior of the hull.  I also drilled the scuppers which was pretty straight forward.  Then I started to fabricate the plates for the backstays.   These were made using 1/64" x 3/32" brass strips.   The K&S strips are soft and can be filed easily to shape.  You can see the progression of steps used to make them.  There will be three chainplates on each side of the hull.

 

I started by drilling the hole at the bottom and rounding it off.

 

Then I used a round file to notch the strips on both sides as shown in step two.  This will be the top of the chain plate where it gets thinner.

 

In step three I used a flat file to extend that thinner portion on top so I could bend it into a loop like making an eyebolt.

 

Step four is where I cut off the top excess strip and tapered the bottom portion so it got slightly narrower as it worked its way to the top.

 

The last two examples show the chainplate completed with the thin portion of the brass on top bent into a loop.  This will get a hooked tackle when it comes time to rig the back stays.   I used small little brass pins....you know the ones...they come in every kit and I have a whole bunch of them.

 

Next its on to the deadeyes and chainplates for the channels.  Its really the same procedure to make those except we will add a stroped deadeye to the top of each.

 

The outboard details are almost all complete.  Once the deadeyes are completed there is only the rudder and fixed block on the stem.  Then we finish up inboard!!!!

 

 

 

[Jim Lad]

Very nicely executed metalwork, Chuck.

 

John

[gjdale]

Nice little tutorial there Chuck - thanks.

[Chuck]

Thank you gents!!!   Hopefully get the other side done this weekend and start on the deadeyes and chainplates.

[Erebus and Terror]

I feel guilty that I'm learning so much from your free tutorials (here and on your website)! Excellent work! 

[Chuck]

Thank you very much....your comment alone makes it all worthwhile.  

[KenW]

Great work.  Do you get these K&S strips on-line?   And are these the same brass strips you use for the 'scraping' tools?

Thanks.

[Chuck]

Yes I buy them online here.....

 

http://www.hobbylinc.com/cgi-bin/s8.cgi?str_s=k%26s+bar

 

Yes you can use the wider sheets and strips to make scrapers.  They dont last forever but get the job done for me.

 

Chuck

[mtaylor]

Chuck,

Your logs are one of those that set the standards for tutorials.     Beautiful smithy work.

[AnobiumPunctatum]

I can only second Marcs words. Your logs are really helpful

[Chuck]

Thank You very much  .  Just a small update as I got tired of making rope today.  I started in the chainplates and deadeyes.  They are made pretty much like the others I showed, only longer.  The deadeyes are stroped with 22 gauge black wire. I have six more to go and probably will get that done after Thanksgiving.  I wish all of you a happy and tummy stuffing turkey day.

 

Chuck

 

 

 

[Rustyj]

She's looking soooooo good. Enjoy thanksgiving with your family.

[GLakie]

Sure is a great looking model!  Looking forward to tackling this one myself.  Have a Happy Thanksgiving Chuck. 

[albert]

Hi Chuck, wonderful work.

[druxey]

Sweet! And a happy Thanksgiving.

[Jack12477]

I echo everyone else comments. And Happy Thanksgiving Chuck

[dvm27]

Lovely metal work, Chuck. She's no turkey.

[barryww]

I was thinking about the horseshoe bracket.  I understand it's function, but was wondering if it had any superstitious connotations, like a good luck charm would by the ship's builders?

[Chuck]

I am not sure actually...but its doubtful.  

 

Today I reached a milestone...not much of an update however...I have completed all of the outboard details.  The rudder will added a little later as I wanted to finish the inboard details at the stern including the seats first.  BUT...then I noticed that the aft-most deadeye is a bit too high.   So I will have to redo that chainplate before moving on...maybe tomorrow...Oh well!!!  I spoke too soon.  But at least I can start the inboard details as well.  The fixed block for the inhaul at the bow was also completed.

 

Chuck

 

[barryww]

Great technique on the chainplates.  I've learned a lot of building methods by just following along.  Congrats on the milestone and I will be watching for your subsequent posts.  Which reminds me that I need to order some of your deadeyes, blocks, and rope at some point.  But I'll wait and see what you end up using.  I'm not in any hurry. 

[Engelmann]

Come on Chuck, I'm getting a very bad case of withdrawal symptoms here :D  

 

Cheers

 

Deon

[Erik W]

Chuck,

 

I read through your tutorial on tree nailing, and was curious what specific Elmer's Wood Filler you used to be so close a color match to the castello boxwood? 

 

Also, how do you get the lines of holes drilled for tree nails straight?  Temporarily line it out on the hull with tape??

 

Thanks!

Erik

[Chuck]

Its just the regular natural stuff.  The holes are so tiny it doesnt really matter...its the pencil outline that does the trick.  The holes are just a #78 drill bit.  Yes...I use some tape to line up the row of treenails.