HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype

[Chuck]

Thank you gentlemen...

 

I took a break from framing because I wanted to work on the windlass.  Its 3 1/2" long. I have had the design concept in my brain for over a year and I wanted to see if it would work.  I think it came out really well.  The design is much like the lantern.  You build the windlass drum in sections and slide them onto a 1/16" x 1/16" strip.  There are 65 pieces in this windlass.   All laser cut.  Its a perfect match to the plans.  The hardest part (which isnt very hard at all)  is to bevel the edges of each face of the drum.  This is so they fit tightly together.   Once you get the angle down,  it goes quickly and without incident.   You have to bevel the edges without over doing it because you will lose the original shape of each precision cut piece.  The laser char on the edge actually help out a lot.  You need to bevel the edge until the laser char is all gone and resist beveling further.  

 

 I was worried about this ever since I saw the model in the Rogers collection.  Yes, you could shape the windless drum from one piece and carve the sprockets by hand...but that is a real challenge.  I have seen what David Antscherl did for his Comet model and it scared me to death ever since.  Knowing that others will ultimately build this model I needed to put my kit designer hat on.  This windlass is a MAJOR deck fitting and can make or break a model of a cutter if it isnt done well enough.

 

Ultimately,  this windlass will be painted all red but I am not sure yet.  Its usually shown that way on contemporary models.  If I decide to leave it natural boxwood I will paint the ends of the drum so you cant see the construction method.  If its painted carefully to look like wood, it will look like a solid piece.  This is still not glued together.  The individual segments are just slid onto the stick.  I just have to snip the ends of teh stick off and sand them down after the segments are glued together. Silly me, I got so into making it, that I didnt take any construction photos.

 

That means I will have to build another one at some point.  Lucky me. 

 

Now to take my daughter to the movies and sit with her and about 7 other 14 year old noisy girls.  Lucky me again!!!

 

 

 

 

[AntonyUK]

Hi Chuck.

WOW that's one nice Windlass.

That's one of my things I have yet to overcome with my cutter.

 

Taking the girls out to the cinema . It's what a dad does

 

Regards Antony.

[Jim Lad]

Now that's a very cleverly thought out windlass design, Chuck!

 

John

[augie]

Just found this log and you are certainly zipping right along.  Love the thicker bulkheads ...... and the windlass as well.

[druxey]

Enjoy the movie, Dad: your optic receptors for pink and purple will probably burn out....

 

That is an ingenious solution to making a windlass. Well done! However, are the bar holes on all octagonal faces or should they be only on alternate ones?

[Trussben]

That is certainly a beautiful windlass Chuck, look forward to seeing you in SL.

 

Ben

[aliluke]

That windlass is one sweet little kit. Just all too tempting while I watch the NZ$ plummet against the US$ .

[Chuck]

Thanks guys...

 

Druxey...Like you, I thought that was true.   Holes on every other face of the windlass.  However,  I kept seeing more and more of these that showed them on all sides.  I may switch it later...but I am torn.  Do you have have any info on these that would clarify.  Other than contemporary models....few even show the holes at all,  I could only find secondary sources.  For example,  The AOS for the Cutter Alert has an almost identical windlass with holes on all eight faces of the windless.   Go figure.  Its easy enough to change,  just need to find something definitive.  Any help would be appreciated.

 

You can see that Roger Cole also added the holes on every face of his windlass on his model of Alert below.

 

 

Chuck

[druxey]

I'll do some digging, Chuck. Either way, it's a beautiful windlass!

[RichardG]

I am definitely going to be following this build.

 

I started my current build, an 1815 American cutter, when I was in England so it seems appropriate to make my second build a 1806 British cutter now I'm in the US. A POB model would be a good first scratch build, although having the bulkheads pre-cut would be nice. The scale at 1:48 works as well (it's close enough to my 1:50 build).

 

I won't be finished with my cutter until next year, so the timing is right.

 

I have also been building a mental list of power tools to buy when I retire, so now I've added a laser cutter (I'm sure my wife won't mind).

 

Richard.

 

 

[druxey]

Deck plans of Revenue cutters I've looked at show (where bar holes are indicated at all) that these are on every other face. If you think about it, it makes sense. Holes in every face would weaken the windlass when strain was placed against one side of the hole and there was little wood between it and the next hole. The few models where photos show the windlass: the same applies. However, it's your call, Chuck.

[Jim Lad]

Chuck,

 

Only one example, and later than yours, but this is a photo of the Harriet (1843) at Greenwich.

 

John

 

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Really wonderful windlass. This is one very tricky part and you make to look it so easy.

[Chuck]

Seeing as I have to make another windlass anyway...I will alter the plans to show the bar holes on every other face.  Its an easy fix.  I can see that it would make sense...or to alternate their position should they appear on every face like shown on John;'s example he posted above.  Dont y0u wish making changes in real life was as easy as having Photoshop.

 

Heres what she looks like with every other...piece of cake...

 

[druxey]

John: that's an interesting photo; the holes are on all faces, but offset from each other. As you say, later; but a nice example!

[Chuck]

Windlass 2.0

 

The final version....no photoshop this time 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[druxey]

Now, that looks brilliant, Chuck!

[jwvolz]

Very nice Chuck.

 

Caldercraft would have you knock up the windlass on the Granado kit in a similar way, but the parts don't fit nearly as well...

[rtropp]

Hi Chuck

I just did my first walk through of this build. I have set it to "follow" and will enjoy the ride. Thanks for all the detail.

Richard

[KenW]

I also just found this build and am totally impressed.  I think this model, when ready, will be a good way to get into scratch builds.

I also agree with Alistair that a scroll saw would be a good investment.  Can you recommend a brand/model?

Thanks.

[harvey1847]

Hi chuck!

 

Thanks very much for the pics about your laser cut machine and for the walk around your basement... trully a cave, a big one, should say. Mine is about 3x2m2...

 

 

By God I have to tidy up this place...there is crap all over.  I am embarrassed.

 

 

That made me smile. Even my 6 square meters are as messy as yours. Tidy tidy tidy guess we are always tiding up our small or big shop. Ain´t no need to be embarrassed.

 

Good luck and happy modelling!

 

Daniel.

Edited October 10, 2014 by harvey1847

[Rustyj]

Hi Chuck,

 

I found this log a couple of days ago and read through it and love what you are doing. But that's a given anyways.

 

If you keep this up I'm gonna have to sell the couple of kits I still have on the shelf.  

[bp1535]

Chuck:  I was thinking about your comment on 1/4" plywood and where to find it.  I have used Rockler and Woodcraft in the wood industry for modelers.

Then there are the houses around that sell plywood for the scroll saw people, as I have delved into scroll saw work also. Just a suggestion.  Cheers, Bill Palmer

[Kevin]

all this scratch building has opened a whole new world to me, lovely work chuck

[Trussben]

I enjoyed seeing the Plans at the conference Chuck, I'm sure it will be a very successful and beautiful build for anyone.

 

Ben

[RichardG]

So what are the chances of getting a wood list ready for this before Jeff at HobbyMill goes onto bigger and better things? And then persuading my wife that yes, I do need the wood now. 

 

Either way, I'm really looking forward to following this build.

 

Richard.

[Chuck]

You are the second person to ask me that....

 

The problem is that it would only be an estimate.  I wont know for sure until I actually build it.  I usually keep track of what I use and then add just a bit more to make the materials list.

 

So far I only have one 48" x 48" sheet of ply that is 1/4" thick and one 3" wide sheet of boxwood or whatever you prefer to use for teh keel and stem and rudder.  It should be 7/32" thick.

 

Other than that I haveent got a clue.  I would be afraid that after examining the plans carefully I might forget something....so keeping track as I work is usually foolproof.  But maybe I will give it a try this weekend.  But like I said...I may overlook something.  It will be real close though.

 

Thanks for the interest in the project.  If all goes according to plan the 3 sheets will be released around the new year but February at the latest.   I basically just want to plank it outboard to prove the hull design.    I also want to write the first few chapters so folks will have a guide.

 

Chuck

[ASAT]

Chuck, took a look at this thread, very nice. This is going to be a winner! I don't know if you are still looking but I have used Nationalbalsa.com for ply in my R/C planes and it is very nice, I think the 1/4" stuff is 7 ply (birch) it is a bit spendy I think $12.75 for a 12x48 sheet but it has always been straight and the edges sand really well without splintering. I think you can get free shipping on larger orders and if you call them vs. Online order you mightbe able to get them to hand pick the nice stuff just a thought.... Balsa USA is another great resource.... At any rate I will be inline for this build whenit's ready..... Very nice windlass btw.... Much better than the one I scratched for my Harvey - is it going to be part of your inventory?

Edited October 25, 2014 by ASAT

[Chuck]

Yes indeed it will Lou.  Thanks for the kind words.   Yes I plan on using National balsa when the time comes.   I have used them a lot in the past and they are my go to source.  The last batch of ply I got from them was awful though so I will have to call them first and make sure I get the good stuff.

 

It is so great see you back on the site.  I am literally working on her as we speak.

 

Chuck

[Chuck]

Today I wanted to get the crappy part out of the way.  What a mess.  Fairing the outside of the hull before  I start putting in the port sills.

 

Lots  of saw dust.  You folks are very familiar with this.  Even with a smaller hull it took the whole day.  This is the single most important part of the project.  Unfortunately because its such a pain its easy to understand why people rush through it only to have issues later on.

 

At the bow is the usual "Bow filler piece"  and a few horizontal pieces which is where the forward port will reside.  Fairing the bow was challenging.  Whenever you think its done...its really not.  This is easy to spot using a batten.  I dont angle my rabbet for the planking until this stage.  And its important.  Most folks angle the rabbet before gluing the bulkheads into the former.  But I can never get the angles right.  Its easier for me to visualize when fairing the bow and inserting battens every now and again to see how they fit.

 

Before fairing

 

 

After a good start at fairing the bow.  Notice how the bulkhead former within the rabbet is faired to match the angle of the bow filler after its faired.  If you dont do this then the plank wont fit nicely into the rabbet and defeats the purpose of having one to begin with.  This is what takes lots of time.  Small chisels nd sanding sticks...the usual suspects to do it.  I am using the laser char on the bulkhead edges to check how the fairing is progressing as I work towards mid ship.  Then I switch around and work from the stern to midship again to complete the fairing.

 

 

 

Here are some battens added to check the run of the port sills.  There are laser reference marks on each bulkhead as is usually the case.  After some careful adjustments the top of the batten was marked off on each bulkhead edge to indicate the top of the port sills.  Notice how the batten fits into the rabbet and because of how its faired,  I didnt have to even pre bend this strip.  It lays in there perfectly and no pins are used to hold it in the rabbet.  That will make planking so much easier.....which would have been a fight if I didnt take my time with this fairing.  I am gald its all done,  but I can still see some spots...

 

 

 

 

Tomorrow I will add the port sills and port framing before starting on the stern framing.