HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype

[Chuck]

As I am about to start framing the ports,  I would like to have a bit of a discussion about the.  Please feel free to chime in if this is something you are familiar with.   I have seen cutters with and without port lids in paintings and drawings.  I am talking about 1800-1830ish.   My issue is that I have never or rarely seen a contemporary model or set of plans with port lids. I am already resolved not to show them on Cheerful.

 

BUT,  that leads to my question.   On many contemporary models I can see the rabbet around the port opening.  On others still there is no rabbet.  I can only assume there wasnt and standard with this.   Maybe some sort of buckler was used rather than a port lid.  But then why some models without a rabbet.

 

I have yet to decide if I should show this feature of a rabbet around the sides and bottom of the port openings.

 

Cheerful in the rogers collection has them

 

 

This contemporary model does not...except at the bottom maybe...

 

 

All of the others from this period that I have seen have no rabbets.

 

Any thoughts or research out there to help me in my decision?  Thanks in advance.

[druxey]

I suspect bucklers were the thing if freeboard were low, making her a 'wet' ship. Otherwise, port coverings on an open deck make no sense.

[mtaylor]

I'll have to go with Druxey's observation, Chuck.   If there's rabbet, then they probably had bucklers in except for battle.  If no rabbet, they were probably put in only during heavy seas.  There's a couple of American/English vessels I've come across (a bit bigger than a cutter) that had things setup that way.   

[Chuck]

I absolutely agree and I thought the same thing.  BUT....then I found these.  All contemporary and from the same time period.  I have dozens more with and without port lids.  I guess we shall never know.  I will add the rabbet......and have no lids.  That is a safe bet I think.

 

Chuck

 

 

 

 

[Chuck]

Also note the vertical planking on the square tuck in that drawing.  This cutter has the same based on the original planking expansion.  Normally you see the diagonal planking.

[druxey]

Well, the Holman painting certainly muddies the waters! However, I think there is another clue on contemporary plans. If there is only a rail above the port opening, there is no 'meat' to fix port hooks. Therefore no lids. However, if there is at least one strake of plank above the port, then that would provide material for the hooks and hinges. Look at the Holman painting again: one strake of plank over the ports with lids.

 

Cheerful/Surly fall into the first category. Conclusion: no port lids. I rest my case, m'lud.

Edited October 27, 2014 by druxey

[Chuck]

That absolutely works for me.....makes as much sense as any other theory I have thought of.  That would mean Cheerful had no lids but probably had a rabbet so bucklers could be used in rough waters.   Thats my story and I am sticking to it.  

[druxey]

Agreed, Chuck: that would be my conclusion as well!

[aliluke]

Hi Chuck - it is looking really good. I like the idea of the rabbet just to give some articulation to the port opening if nothing else. I did the same on Fly with sill  and jamb liners (but no head liner), all set back to create the rabbet for the lid where no lid will be shown on the open deck. Right or wrong it is a nice detail touch. Then I saw a contemporary model of Atalanta which has lids on the open deck.

 

A "buckler" is a new term for me and Google failed to clarify. Is it a temporary cover over the port but not hinged like a lid? I guess I'm a few dozen books and many more papers off your, druxeys and Mark's research background!

[Chuck]

Yes Alistair...that is exactly what a buckler is.   I have seen bucklers in many configurations.  For example...sometimes a half lid was hinged on the bottom of the port opening and the buckler used only on the top half.   In other instances the buckler was full size for the port.  They are usually temporarily secured by ring bolts on the inboard side of the buckler and tied off to ring bolts on the bulwarks.  Even the same ring bolts used for the breech line of the cannon or the gun tackles.

[ASAT]

Chuck - that is looking really fine - I like that the bulkhead tops (sill support pieces) still have a lot of meat on them after fairing - they don't look near as fragile as most. Every project just gets better, and those spots you are seeing are part of that perfection you keep us striving for....  Still amazed at the resources you guys have for researching  these vessels, I don't know if it's because I live in a desert or just haven't tried hard enough, but you guys never cease to amaze with the wealth of info you provide. Looking forward to getting a crack at this beauty....

 

Lou

[WackoWolf]

Again I learn something new. Thanks for explaining this for me. I am always learning something new every time I come here.

[Bill Hime]

What a great opportunity to watch a prototype come to life. Your taking time to discuss the little details, in my mind, is what makes a build log successful. Thanks Chuck!

 

 

Sincere Regards,

 

Bill

[Kevin]

what is a buckler?

[Chuck]

Kevin....look a few posts back.   It was already discussed.

 

Thanks guys,  I am glad you are enjoying the process.  Yes ....this is the process.  Usually any questions are bounced off a few guys and different research aspects are exchanged.  I figured it was best to do it publicly so everyone can see the decision making process.  Most of it is done.  I have only a few things left to decide on....

 

Chuck

[Trussben]

She really is coming along Chuck! Your laser cutter looks like it had a work out with those bulkheads and fillers.

 

Will continue to watch your development with interest.

 

Ben

[TomShipModel]

Chuck,

 

It is coming together nicely.  Everything seems to be fitting in well.

 

Tom

[Chuck]

Thanks Guys....

 

Tom,  I will bring her to the meeting tonight along with the plans to show our Jersey Club Members.  Its bring a model night!!!!

 

I finished framing the port openings in Boxwood.  I used the reference line from the batten to mark to top of the gunport sills.    They should paint nicely because they are all boxwood.  Unlike the first port which will be cut from ply fillers.  You can see it marked in pencil.  I am about to cut it out right now.  I also laser cut and tested the stern frames.   They are not glued in yet.  Its just a test and all looks good.  It helps make the shape of this little cutter come to life.  I will begin permanently framing the stern as soon as I cut those two forward ports.  Before painting them I will prepare the surface with wood filler or even gesso to smooth it out.  This creates a nice surface to paint on after its sanded with a very fine sandpaper.

 

 

[KenW]

Never heard of Gesso.  Is it easy to use?  How do you apply it?

Thanks.

[Chuck]

Gesso

 

 

Thick milky white base used to coat canvases for painting.   

 

see this link

 

http://www.art-is-fun.com/what-is-gesso.html

 

Chuck

[Trussben]

You are still The master at painting Chuck!! Wish you would do a painting techniques at the next NRG conference, I'd travel just for that!!

 

Ben

[ASAT]

Maybe a whole chapter on painting, brush technique, dry brushing, mixing colors - all those things you do so well in the upcoming book?

[Chuck]

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.

 

When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.

 

Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.

 

 

Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.

 

 

 

Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

[yvesvidal]

Never heard of Gesso.  Is it easy to use?  How do you apply it?

Thanks.

Gesso is what is used by artist to prepare the underlying coat on a canvas or any other medium. It is acrylic based, is extremely easy to apply with a brush, provides a very nice finish, smooths itself very well and provides that extra grit that is necessary for acrylic paint to stick to the medium.

 

You can find it in black or white at Art Shops. It is very inexpensive and can be diluted with water if you find it too thick.

 

I use Gesso to paint black parts on my models (as done by Chuck on the pictures above) but found out that you must apply Gesso directly on the wood. Do not use any other chemical or varnish in between the wood and Gesso.

 

Yves

[Maury S]

Chuck, She's going to have very sweet lines!

Maury

[captainbob]

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.

 

 

If you do a demo, have someone video it for the rest of us.

 

Bob

[druxey]

A further note on gesso: treat it as a sealer and surface filler. When fully dry it may be fine sanded.

[Redbeard]

Looking forward to watching your progress

 

She already looks sweet!

 

john

[Mahuna]

Re using gesso as a filler - acrylic modeling paste can also be used.  It's much like gesso, but heavier.   Both gesso and modeling paste can be thinned with water, and can also be tinted by adding a little acrylic color.  I think Liquitex gesso also comes in a neutral grey color.

 

Frank

[gjdale]

I only "discovered" Gesso fairly recently and am absolutely sold on it! It's really easy to use, and clean up (bonus!), and gives great results. What more could you ask for?