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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Per, I simply hook up a cheap workshop vac to my Byrnes Thicknesser and use it indoors with no issues. A little dust is lost when you feed and extract the wood through the mouth but not a lot I find. the biggest bugbear is having to clean the filter in the Vac a lot - seriously looking at a cyclune system (if they separate such fine particle - still investigating). cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Nice progress; would driving (punching) the nails be easier, you would only need to go a half millimeter or so - BUT PLEASE DO a test first. If feasible, you could fill them as part of the overall fairing effort? AL usually uses limewood as the first layer which is soft and somewhat forgiving so should not split if not over aggressive with the punching. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    That looks great Denis, those nets and gear are really starting to take shape. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    You're getting quite the dab hand at this Greg; those gun turrets look very good indeed. Nice work. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Looks like it was a great event; glad to hear you were able to enjoy it. Some really well made small models thercheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    You're powering along mate. Glad you saw that as a minor setback and that you took the plunge and fixed that pesky bulkhead - she will look all the better for it. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Once again, these vessels show off their amazing simple but elegant lines - nice work Russ. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Go on, get out in the snow Denis! You need a path to the road which goes to your supplier for those extra half round clips That is some nice progress on the nets and trawl booms - this is going to look really good fitted up. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Worth the wait; looks good Sjors. She now has her poles and branches cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Vossie, There are many ways to skin the planking cat if you accept you need to spile. My prefered method is to bevel on the upper edge of the new plank (same as Chuck I think). I found that if I put a bevel on the lower edge of the laid plank (before fixing), that I often had to bevel the top edge of the new plank also anyway. The top edge bevel only meant that I could get a good clean joint knowing the plank above had a good solid straight edge to butt to and some light sanding levelled any thickness difference. Looking at your last photo I think you may be tapering too much (I know some of this is due to angle of the shot and angle the model is sitting, but there appears to be an upward sweep developing. I think you are doing it the same way I did, in that I only tapered where I needed, and for me it was not from half way, but further forward or aft. I was doing Endeavour though and she had very rounded (bluff) bows so the planks were pretty level for at least one half the length of the ship. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    That looks really good Greg. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    I want one, I want one! Very nice use of technology to make the job a little easier and achieve excellent results. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    That looks pretty good Greg; with that additional work it should very realistic. How did you hold up in the heat? cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Very nice fit Russ, won't have any trouble keeping these aligned when gluing up as they all seem to sit very square. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Reider, I am not sure if Sharpie is still updating this log. There is another log somewhere on this site that discusses the mechanisms for movement of the oars; it was very impressive - I just cannot recall the thread. A good search of the forum may turn it up for you. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Vossie, I found that using rubber bands around the hull with balsa wood block wedged between band and the plank worked best. I also put a strip of electricians tape on the block face closest to the plank to avoid any glue seepage sticking to the block. I tried all those different clamping adaptions but found this to be the easiest to use and proved quite effective. The thicker rubber bands proved best and they simply stayed on the hull throughout and I simply adjusted the blocks as required. if you get the right tension/pressure on the rubber bands the blocks keeps everything in place and yet the keel etc won't get marked. In some places I had to use additional larger blocks to get the right pressure but the basa was dirt cheap at the local hardware store. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Very nice work (again) - thanks also for showing the process which is invaluable info for many. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Small but significant progress Denis, the look of the chain on those drag poles/booms look very natural - great effect achieved. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Terrific technique Michael, and a valuable mini-tutorial for us lesser mortals Those rails look excellent in situ. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Be a lot easier if there weren't so many options huh Joss I am having the same issue with researching my Victoria. You seem to be making some good headway though. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Thanks Carl
  22. BANYAN
    Stunning! The decorations set her off nicely and are very well executed. Are the carvings from Cherry also? cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Slowly but surely will get you there! cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    A late comer Russ, somehow missed your new build - but better late than never I suppose Looks like another very nice Biloxi Lugger in the making. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Welcome back to the fray Dave; the boats are looking good! I need to get cracking as I only have the garboard planks on the yawl. I have been putting it off as I have been trying to get ahead on the Victoria, which has been taking an inordinate amouint of my time. cheers Pat

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