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IJN Amatsukaze by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - Halinski - WW2 Japanese Destroyer - 1:200 scale - CARD and Brass


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Hi all,

 

I was expecting to get my Card Kit of the Japanese Destroyer IJN (Imperial Japanese Navy) Amatsukaze any day, so I thought it might be a good idea to tidy up my workbench :

 

Workbench.JPG

 

I finished the job, made myself a cuppa, and sat down in front of the tellie to watch an afternoon of V8 Supercars when ..... there was a knock on the door. UNBELIEVABLE :D - the Kit arrived, not 5 minutes after I'd finished the cleanup. Here's a shot of the cover and the laser-cut frames :

 

The Kit.JPG

 

Work will commence in the next Ad break :D.

 

:cheers:  Danny

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2 hours ago, Captain Slog said:

This is going to be good!

I hope you're right :D.

 

One question - does the laser cutting of the frames affect the adhesion of PVA when fitting the hull skins? I guess it'll be OK, but if it needs a light sand I'm up for it :) .

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Hi Danny,

 

No it doesn't.  I just use a single edge razor to cut the little tabs to free the part and then just a quick rub with a little sanding block to clean off the nib that's left; no need to sand the rest of it.

 

Cheers

Slog

 

Edit: Just noticed your are talking about the skins to forms!  A lot of the laser marks will come off during fairing but any left behind will still be fine without sanding.

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Hi Ken :) .

 

57 minutes ago, Captain Slog said:

A lot of the laser marks will come off during fairing but any left behind will still be fine without sanding.

What laser marks :D ? Brilliant laser cutting - no char whatsoever :) .

 

57 minutes ago, Captain Slog said:

I just use a single edge razor to cut the little tabs to free the part and then just a quick rub with a little sanding block to clean off the nib that's left; no need to sand the rest of it.

Apart from using a scalpel instead of a razor blade, that's exactly what I did too.

 

Ya gotta love laser-cut frames - how long would it have taken to get this far if I had to laminate and cut heavy card? And it's as straight as a gun barrel :) .

 

Hull Frames (1).JPG

Hull Frames (2).JPG

Hull Frames (3).JPG

Hull Frames (4).JPG

Hull Frames (5).JPG

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Thanks for dropping in Popeye and Paul.

 

I've spent all day attempting to translate the Polish instructions into workable English. Without a great deal of success, but it'll have to do. Google Translate came up with some real doozies on my 1st attempt, and there are still a few very weird passages. Here's one example :

 

Quote

We glue the cockroach. 47/50, K1 and arranged according to the mounting drawings

I couldn't find a cockroach anywhere in the book. I might have to ask Halinski to send a replacement :D.

 

Seriously though, can anyone translate this for me? It's the passage in Polish (without the accents etc) :

 

Quote

Sklejamy kolowrotycz. 47/50, K1 i rozmieszczamy wg rysunków montazowych

This word won't translate either : dalocelownik

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Spyglass has hit upon something there, translator seems to work a little better if you take the words apart into syllables and try different combinations - until a native speaker comes along to clear it up, anyway - use that with the pictures of the items, and the placement - back to work Danny!  Nothing better than to watch someone else work, especially when it turns out like yours does!  Steve M 

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Thanks for the comments guys.

 

I used Spyglass's idea of splitting the "cockroach" one step further. I'd already established that "cz." means "part" and "Sklejamy" is "We glue" - the Polish destructions are full of those words - so I tried "Sklejamy kolo wroty cz." and came up with "We glue the faces" (of 47/50 ) which DOES make more sense than "We glue the cockroaches" :D.

 

Using the same idea I broke "dalocelonik" down to "dalo celo nik" which came up with "gave the viewer" (parts 43) - the assembly is a Range-finder :).

 

And I thought that getting into Card Modelling was just all about how to handle thin paper and roll tiny tubes from it :D . Isn't learning Polish fun :rolleyes::D.

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Welcome Greg :) .

 

There's one thing I've found already that Papershipwright has all over Halinski (apart from the Instructions language of course) - PSW give you two pages of "Parts Identification" for the relatively few parts in the model. This lists the Part Number, a Description of what it actually is in most cases, and WHICH SHEET TO FIND IT ON. It can be very time-consuming finding that one tiny piece of a sub-assembly wading through the 8 sheets of printed Amatsukaze parts. It seems a lot of these assemblies have parts on different sheets :huh:.

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Danny, I'm having the same issue with my current Halinski build as well. Thankfully, it's only four pages of parts. I understand the need to shuffle parts around to economize on paper, but it really does seem like at least some of the smaller parts have plenty of room to be placed in a more logical spatial order.

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6 hours ago, ccoyle said:

Danny, I'm having the same issue with my current Halinski build as well. Thankfully, it's only four pages of parts. I understand the need to shuffle parts around to economize on paper, but it really does seem like at least some of the smaller parts have plenty of room to be placed in a more logical spatial order.

Yeah, I get the bit about economy :rolleyes:.

 

Anyway, I've fixed the problem - I went through all 9 pages of parts and typed all the part numbers on each sheet into a single column in a Spreadsheet, entering the sheet number in the 2nd column. Then I did a Data-Sort on the part numbers column, split the columns into a Printable Page format and "Bob's your uncle" :D . I keep each Parts Sheet in a separate sleeve in a clear Display Folder and return the sheet to the sleeve after I cut out the parts I need (at least that's the theory for now ;):D ).

 

IMG_3651.JPG

 

:cheers:  Danny

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2 hours ago, Jim Lad said:

Looks like the card building cockroach has really bitten you, Danny!

Thanks John, yeah it seems that way - at least for a while :D.

 

2 hours ago, CDW said:

A question about these card models...when you buy a card model with laser cut frames, are the frames all that same grade of heavy card stock, or is that specific to the company who sells the model? 

There are two sheets of laser cut frames, a deck section and other assorted pieces. One sheet is 1.0mm thick mostly for the frames. It's not of the quality of the printed sheets, but it doesn't have to be. The other is 0.6mm thick and is actually of a BETTER quality than the printed ones - it seems more "dense" and has a glossy surface. The printed sheets are matte, as they should be. 6 of them are 0.25mm thick, the other which contains mostly elements that need rolling into tubes is fairly thin, about the same as normal 80gsm paper.

 

I can't speak for other Card Kits, this is the 1st one I've actually bought. Cerberus was printed out by a local Photocopy shop from a free Download, and the quality wasn't as good as this kit mainly due to the choice of paper and probably the Setup of the Printer.

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Just to add to Danny's info, the 3 or 4 sets I've seen are all 1mm for the internal structures and if the kit supplies things like struts and braces etc would be 0.5 / 0.6 mm as Danny described. It will interesting to see Danny's Bismarck as if I remember correctly it was slightly thicker and if you didn't have the form set you had to glue the templates to 2 mm card. 

 

Cheers 

Slog

 

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Boy, i go to the footy and find you have built a hull skeleton - slow down for the rest of is mortals Danny, I am out of breath keeping up :)

 

Great start, and now that you have the parts sorted there will be no holding you back - looking forward to this one.

 

BTW, if you need further help with the language give me a PM, i know someone whom may be able to assist you.

 

cheers

 

Pat

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