Group Prototype HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)

[glbarlow]

10 minutes ago, Chuck said:

That last small length needs to be beveled which is why I made it a separate section

In what way and why?

[BobG]

Every time time I see the Winnie it blows my mind how beautiful it is!!

[Chuck]

4 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

In what way and why?

The aft end of the last section needs to be bevelled to match the angled backward slope of the transom.  You want a nice tight fit with the capraul against the transom.

[Chuck]

Here are some timely images of the rail and how complex it will be.   This is why proper planning is important with the placement of those square holes in the cap rail.   There are three levels of the rail including the caprail.  Most models for kits wouldnt attempt a rail like this...at least I havent seen one.  So we need to go slow and double check all positions.  This is very important because of the placemnt of the swivel stocks....qdeck cannon....channels etc.  The second rail or middle rail is narrower and the very top rail is super thin.  Its actually the same thickness as the timberheads.  

 

We wont be adding the rail yet because it will be delicate and get in the way when we are fitting out the qdeck fittings.   But the caprail placement is important now so it wont haunt you later.  We wont be adding the railing until chapter ten.

 

Chuck

 

 

and our interpretation below...

 

 

 

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

Excellent design work Chuck! That really finishes it off. Looks spectacular!

[Jim Rogers]

Should the deck planking be completed before the cap rail installation?

[Chuck]

Nope…

 

We will add the margin planks next but then we will need to make the coamings for the hatches.  Then it will finally be a good time to plank.  
 

Chuck

 

 

[Hubac's Historian]

Chuck, this is all as good, or better than the original.

[Chuck]

Thank You.....

 

 

[Stuntflyer]

Those black caps really enhance the look of the ship. Nice!

 

Mike

[Jim Rogers]

1 hour ago, Stuntflyer said:

Those black caps really enhance the look of the ship. Nice!

 

Mike

Truth

 

[dvm27]

Not only do those blackened caps look nice they also help hide the very difficult to perfect joint with the scrolls/hancing pieces. Of course Chuck's joinery is perfect but difficult for the rest of us!

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

wow, that black toprail is extremely exciting...

[Chuck]

Just a quick update...I wanted to get the caprail all finished before the show this Saturday.   It really finishes it off.  Just like along the quarter deck, the cap rail is laser cut for you for the bow.  The outboard edges were rounded off and each section was painted off the model.   Then the forward-most pieces were glued on the model.

 

Then a laser cut spacer (looks like a small pointed arow) the width of the catheads was used to help position the next longer piece on both sides.  This is an important step.  Its easier to widen the slot later and not so easy to make it smaller so be cautious here.  Than the hance caps were made as before.  The two halves glued together so we have a nice wide piece.  The hance caps were shaped and sanded for a snug fit.   Then care was taken to eliminate any seams between it and the cap rail.   

 

I am happy this is completed and I can move to the deck now.  I will add the margin planks next before starting the coamings just to get them over with.

 

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

That looks awesome Chuck!

 

out of curiosity, even though the forward gunports are typically closed, would there have been guns up there or did the ports serve another use? Same with the aft most ones?

[Chuck]

It depends but rarely did they do so.   They could have but there isnt much room up there.   It was not usual.

 

Chuck

[Rustyj]

I've been trying to keep up while I was busy and finally got caught up. She is just stunning!

[scrubbyj427]

Chuck, Where is the show this weekend? 

[Rustyj]

Port 'N' Starboard Ocean Front Banquet Center

Ocean Beach Park, New London, Connecticut

[scrubbyj427]

Thanks Rusty. 

[Nunnehi (Don)]

Wish I could be there, please post some pics. 
 

Don

[Chuck]

Here is a quick update. 

 

The margin planks on the qdeck and fcastle have been added.   The first planks to add are those along the breast beams at the waist.  I used a 3/16" x 3/64" strip for this.   The overhang edge on both were rounded off.  There is only a slight overhang on the breast beams with these plans which should leave you with a nice rabbet on the other side for your deck planking which we will start shortly.   The rabbet was about 1/16" wide on the other side.

 

Fcastle margin planks shown below.   Then the templates can be used as a starting point for the actual margin planks.  Just like you did for the gundeck below at the bow.  Use the template as a guide and starting point to make your margin planks.  I cut them from a 3/64" thick sheet.   Then I added the waterway along the bulwarks just as we did on the gun deck. I 3/64 x 364 strip was used and one corner was rounded off down its length to create a quarter round profile.  Same as for the gun deck....you dont have to create scarph joins if you dont want to.   They are tricky.  You can simply butt them together if you want to simplify this.

 

 

Then the same was repeated on the qdeck.   Start with the breast beam plank.....then the waterways can be cut from a 3/64" sheet......and then make the waterway from a 3/64 x 3/64  strip.

 

Do you guys have any questions????

 

I thinking I will start on the outside areas of planking before I do the coamings.  Just to break up the planking process a bit.   Again .....you guys have the templates for lining off.  All the deck planks are provided for you on the templates for the fcastle and qdeck.  It should go easier than the gun deck.

 

I will have that done soon and another update.

 

[WalrusGuy]

Amazing!!!! 😀

[glbarlow]

So we’re cutting the curved planks on the forecastle?

[Chuck]

Yupp….even though 95% of the parts are laser cut in this kit.  It is impossible to match the curvature at the bow for everyones model.  Everyones model will vary slightly and even from the port to starboard sides on the same model based on how I see evryone fairing the bow area. So its best to just cut your own.

 

its not that hard and this way everyone wont toss and waste all that wood when the laser cut pieces dont fit….you have my templates which is basically spoon feeding the shape I would have laser cut.  If you test the template on your model and it doesnt fit correctly then the laser cut Versions would just be trash.

 

Its why the model looks like it

does and not the typical kit like pieces that dont fit.  Its only one of the very few pieces you have to cut on your own.  
 

 

[Jim Rogers]

55 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

So we’re cutting the curved planks on the forecastle?

What I did was take a three inch wide piece of cedar laid it on top and used a compass to draw the curvature of my bow on the wood. I then cut out the template matched it up as close as it would go with the curvature I just drew and cut it all with number11 blade. Did the same for both port and stud sides. Glued it in place, a little sawdust filler and done. Came out great. I would post photos but get annoyed with them always being upside down. I am in hot standby for cap rails.

[glbarlow]

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

.  If you test the template on your model and it doesnt fit correctly then the laser cut Versions would just be trash.

Makes sense, I’ll cut them these the same way I did for Cheerful, not a problem. Maybe I was getting use to seeing the 95% part😁

[Chuck]

I decided to plank the outside bands or belts of the fcastle and qdeck.  I wanted to break up the task rather than have to do all of the remaining planking at once.   I cant plank the center band until I make all the coamings and gratings etc.   What I did do however was select all of the wood for the planking now so it all was a good match in color and lightness.   I set aside all of the wood for when do plank down the center.

 

You have a few options here.  I will let you decide.   You can rip some strips and bend them to the curves needed based on the template.  Thats fine, especially for the qdeck planking.   BUT, I decided to just rubber cement my template for the fcastle planking on some 3/64" thick cedar sheets.  The curves are more pronounced on the fcastle.  Then I just used a sharp #11 blade to cut them out.  I stayed outside of the lines and then sanded them to fit tightly.   There are only four planks on each side of the fcastle so it isnt too bad.   Just use the template first as a paper guide and make any tweaks for your model before cutting them from wood.  No laser cut and etched decking here folks!!

 

For the qdeck I just ripped some 1/4" x 3/64" strips.  Then I tapered them to match the template.  I made sure the butt joints fell on a beam.  Try for some nice tight seams here.....and dont forget to simulate the caulking down one edge of each strip with a pencil or whatever method you prefer.

 

 You can see that so much of the gun deck is still viewable and this will be a nice method so all those details and hard work arent hidden away below deck.

Next up I will be making the coamings and gratings so I can plank around them down the center of the deck.  This may take a while because I want those grating to fit perfectly in the coamings just like they did on the gun deck.   That means there will be plenty of coaming thrown in the trash until they are just right.

 

I wanted to take pictures with the little "mini me" but unfortunately some knucklehead with sticky fingers stole it right off the model at the Connecticut show.  I wonder what the guy is doing with a mini me?   I shudder to think.  Rest in peace "mini me".   So far no ransom note has been sent.

 

[svein erik]

wat a beauty...... ☺

 

svein.e

[Matt D]

16 minutes ago, Chuck said:

some knucklehead with sticky fingers stole it right off the model

What kind of jerk would do such a thing?!  Does he know that 40,000 MSW members are going to be cursing him?  I'm really sorry that happened, Chuck.