Group Prototype HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)

[Tim Murphy]

You know, I thought that we had a great show. I can not believe that some Jerk would have done this. What a disappointment!
I am very sorry that this happened.

Tim Murphy

[Chuck]

No worries Tim
 

You would be surprised how often stuff gets lifted from these ship model shows.  This year I also “lost” a few display cannons I had built on their carriages.  i put them out on the table to show folks what they look like all assembled.  Maybe these guys think they are free samples…LOL.  It happens and it was even worse at a few NRG conferences.  
 

[Tigersteve]

That is pretty outrageous. Sorry to hear that. I noticed someone picking up my model to view it at one point. I thought that was a bit out of line as well. Unless you give permission that is not okay. 
Steve

[dvm27]

I was thinking of showing my Speedwell in progress at the show but I was afraid the temporarily placed carvings might disappear. Guess I was right to be hesitant.

 

RIP little Chucky! I hope a disgruntled client didn’t lift it for voodoo purposes. Any unusual aches and pains lately Chuck?

[Chuck]

I think you will be fine Greg.  Its usually just the vendors that get nicked.  
 

i believe they think we can easily take the loss.  You should absolutely bring your model.  I dont want to discourage you or anyone else.  
 

I think it had a lot to do with folks getting excited after two years without a show.  It was a bit crazy early on at the show. My wife said folks were literally coming on our side of the tables and rummaging through the tool boxes for stuff before we even finished setting up.

 

Those that know my set up….all syren products are on display boards and when you point to something you want to buy we go through the boxes and put together your order.  But this time folks were just having a free -for -all early on who didnt know the system…

 

it was quite chaotic.  The funny thing is that after lunch the vendor tables are dead.  But the first two hours are crazy.
 

 

[Chuck]

Im reposting so it doesnt get lost on the previous page

 

I decided to plank the outside bands or belts of the fcastle and qdeck.  I wanted to break up the task rather than have to do all of the remaining planking at once.   I cant plank the center band until I make all the coamings and gratings etc.   What I did do however was select all of the wood for the planking now so it all was a good match in color and lightness.   I set aside all of the wood for when do plank down the center.

 

You have a few options here.  I will let you decide.   You can rip some strips and bend them to the curves needed based on the template.  Thats fine, especially for the qdeck planking.   BUT, I decided to just rubber cement my template for the fcastle planking on some 3/64" thick cedar sheets.  The curves are more pronounced on the fcastle.  Then I just used a sharp #11 blade to cut them out.  I stayed outside of the lines and then sanded them to fit tightly.   There are only four planks on each side of the fcastle so it isnt too bad.   Just use the template first as a paper guide and make any tweaks for your model before cutting them from wood.  No laser cut and etched decking here folks!!

 

For the qdeck I just ripped some 1/4" x 3/64" strips.  Then I tapered them to match the template.  I made sure the butt joints fell on a beam.  Try for some nice tight seams here.....and dont forget to simulate the caulking down one edge of each strip with a pencil or whatever method you prefer.

 

 You can see that so much of the gun deck is still viewable and this will be a nice method so all those details and hard work arent hidden away below deck.

Next up I will be making the coamings and gratings so I can plank around them down the center of the deck.  This may take a while because I want those grating to fit perfectly in the coamings just like they did on the gun deck.   That means there will be plenty of coaming thrown in the trash until they are just right.

 

 

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

Looks really sharp Chuck! Amazing work! I need to uncrate my Winnie and get back to work soon. Sorry about your abduction, can you order a new mini you?

[BobG]

3 hours ago, Chuck said:

I wanted to take pictures with the little "mini me" but unfortunately some knucklehead with sticky fingers stole it right off the model at the Connecticut show. 

 

Well that's a bummer! Did you happen to see an evil doppelgänger of you hanging out at the show with sticky fingers?

[glbarlow]

I would be lost without my mini-me. He does all the up close inspections. I hope you can replace yours. 

[Chuck]

Coamings are completed on the fcastle with gratings.  There is one that is for the stack which will have some cover boards.   Note that this coaming sits against the one aft of it.  So the aft edge doesnt have the corners rounded off.   Rather than repeat the coaming making process I will just say ...dont forget to use your 3/64" thick right angle jig when making them.  Also use that to round off the corners leaving a sharp edge corner where the planking will done around it.   This is the exact same thing we did with the gun deck coamings.

 

With these completed I can start planking the center strip down the fcastle.  I will take some pictures of that process because we need to also glue the bitts onto the model we made in the previous chapter.  The ones fore and aft of the foremast.   

 

More progress shortly but does this make sense....do you guys need any clarification as I there really is nothing different with these coamings than all the others....a 5/64 x 1/32" strip was inserted inside the coaming so we can sit the gratings and cover boards into them.   Everything is laser cut.  The gratings are made the same way as well.

 

 

[Chuck]

This is an important picture as I plank down the center.  Note that the center 3 deck planks were cut using the template as a guide.  These are glued in first.   Then the two bitts we made are glued into position in front of and aft of the fore mast hole.   It would be very difficult to cut and add those three center planks with the bitts in position already.   Once they are glued into position the two remaining strakes of deck planks on each side can be completed.  In the photo you can see that I have already cut and shaped the three lengths for the next strake.   I will finish up the deck planking on the fcastle tomorrow.  

 

Any questions or comments.  Remember that all of the planking is tapered and curved.   These planks were cut from a 3/64" thick sheet of cedar.  I glued the template on it and cut the next plank I needed with a sharp #11 blade.  I sanded it smooth and close to the lines and tested it and retested and retested....you guys get the idea.

 

 

 

[glbarlow]

How do I determine the tapered width of each the three planks at the bow?

[Chuck]

Its all done for you….i have created templates with all of the individual planks drawn out.  All of the scarf joints drawn and butt joints.  Cut the template apart into i ndividual planks to test them on your model.  Tweak them if they need it.  When they fit….either rubber cement them onto a wood sheet or trace them.  You really cant get any simpler.  Its all done for you. 
 

[glbarlow]

14 minutes ago, Chuck said:

created templates

Perfect, this is great stuff. 

[Chuck]

Fcastle planking is completed.  I also added the mast coat as you can see in the photo.  This is also the same as the earlier ones we built.  The open areas of the decking reveal plenty of the gun deck.  Just remember,  you can add more deck planks if you prefer.  You can also plank one side completely and leave the other side just showing the deck beams and knees.  Its up to you.

 

Now its onto either the belfry rail or jump over and start working on the qdeck coamings.  I havent decided yet.   There is also a large knee at the bow to make.

 

Chuck

 

 

[Hubac's Historian]

I am curious about the bulkhead fitted within the aft cable bitts, at the break of the forecastle deck; a continuation of the bulkhead, to the ship sides, would interfere with the working of the bitts, so I am curious as to why there might be a  partial bulkhead.

 

It is very possible that I am not reading the above picture correctly.  Does a partial bulkhead merely conceal the apparatus of the stove?

[Chuck]

Yes probably just a wind break.  It is shown on the original draft and on a several contemporary models.  Some have doors but those were not called for on the Winnie.  They had doors when the riding bitts were on the lower deck.  When a partition was used within the bitts as on Winnie no doors were used.  I imagine it was portable and easily removed when they needed better access.

[gjdale]

Looks fantastic Chuck. I do have one question regarding the deck planking. I may be completely wrong on this and please tell me if I am. Looking at the planking on either side of the forecastle (ie the outer planking), the inboard one of these planks on either side appears to end in a point. My understanding was that this situation was to be avoided and that therefore the forward end of these planks would be shaped similar to the ones outboard of them (if that makes sense)?

[Chuck]

At least one would end in a point.  Its possible I could have put another scarph joint there but it was a toss up.

[gjdale]

Thanks Chuck - I knew there would be some logic behind this, but had to ask anyway.

[Chuck]

You could end it like this if you chose to. I may in fact still do that.  I may take a sharp chisel to the point and flatten it.  But at some point you are going to get a point.  It just depends on how severe it is.  I kept going back and forth on it.  But now that you started me staring at it again…I may just have to chisel the point free.  
 

[Hubac's Historian]

Thanks for the explanation, Chuck.  That makes perfect sense.

[bdgiantman2]

1 hour ago, Hubac's Historian said:

I am curious about the bulkhead fitted within the aft cable bitts, at the break of the forecastle deck; a continuation of the bulkhead, to the ship sides, would interfere with the working of the bitts, so I am curious as to why there might be a  partial bulkhead.

 

It is very possible that I am not reading the above picture correctly.  Does a partial bulkhead merely conceal the apparatus of the stove?

Mr. Passaro is likely correct that this partial wall was just a wind breaker. It would have been a great place for hanging pans and other utensils not in immediate use for the galley as well just to have out of the way.

[Hubac's Historian]

That is another very practical insight that I had not thought of.

[Chuck]

The Belfry....

 

A very important fitting that is often simplified on kits.   Its almost always kit-like when finished.  Almost always painted on kits.   I think we can do better.   But this will absolutely be one of those fittings you must take your time with.  There are plenty of details on this tiny fitting.  It is that important like the ships wheel or binnacle or capstan....these are going to show if you rush it.  They will ruin a decent model for sure if done sloppy.   You have to slow down and take your time.

 

Have you ever seen a belfry on any kit that looks like this built out of the box?   Even  the latest so-called wonder-kits.

 

Lets see what we can do on the Winnie.

 

 

[Chuck]

First crack at it....This took all day to make.  The original draft actually has quite a detailed drawing of this which is a bit wider and shorter than the contemporary model depicts.   Its very interesting and helpful when you find a draft like this. So I will share it with you.

 

 

I will explain the step by step..

 

 

 

[Rustyj]

That is simply stunning! 

[bdgiantman2]

Looks interesting, Mr. Passaro. Just for fun I was looking at Blue Jacket and the largest bell they offer is 1/4 inch diameter, your looks like it will be bigger.  Did you make your own bell from brass or is there another site that offers larger molded bells?

[Chuck]

I bought about 200 bells for the Winnie project.  The Bell will be included in chapter 9.  But I dont have enough to sell for projects other than Winnie.  
 

they are cheap metal bells sold in bulk for wedding invitations and favors.  They look great if you remove the clapper etc and just keep the bell part.  Do a google search for “bulk gold wedding bells” etc.  its amazing what you can find out there.
 

[jfhealey]

That looks wonderful. But I can't help feeling: if that took you a day what hope is there for the likes of me. Hopefully you will turn your marvellous laser cutting skills to the task in hand and we will all produce something passable (and enjoyable to make). 

Thank you for this terrific project.

Fred Healey