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Posted

Or just use a hairy stick to do the top part  if done in thinned layers it wont orange peal or show brush marks.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted

no brush........with paint this fresh,  it will activate the under coat and will become a blackish smear.   there is a hint of visible shading.....compare it to the rest of the deck to see how it looks.

 

I'm not an acrylic guy.......used enamels all my life.   I'm not sure how tolerant the paint is.

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

Posted (edited)

Cog it is the camera, the black is showing through a little to much actually.  I know It's not negative criticism:)  Negative criticism would be invited anyway.  but ya That's what happens when you use an old Iphone for a camera.  I think I'm to shaky to hold a paper mask:huh:

OC I avoid brushing like its the flu. just because I'm terrible at it. actually in front of me right now is A brush for the blast bags. I'm dreading it.  hahaha...hairy stick.

Popeye, I just used enamel primer and wow the fumes! I kicked my bird out of the room a minute into it. another wow is the clean up of my airbrush,  it's much different. 

 

Here is about the best I can get out of my camera for seeing the shading.  If you look at the tops you can see it. It looks better in person. 

IMG_2053.thumb.JPG.4eb22fe875e37f16fd93735fdb585d0e.JPGIMG_2054.thumb.JPG.4f58318d61fb7fe52dc03aa157ecf428.JPG

Edited by semorebutts
Posted

I don't think the smell is too bad with Testor's and Model Master.......it's a lot less than rattle cans or lacquer,  which I used quite a bit too.   now,  in the case of the Billing's enamel paint,  I stress caution...this stuff smells the high heavens!  I try to use it mostly in well ventilated areas and away from the table..the admiral hates it.

    nothing is worse that the dope I use for my wooden flying airplane projects though....has to be done outside.   I've substituted clear lacquer in some cases,  especially if I've nowhere to run to {I try to avoid}.   I see the shading.......did you do like I suggested to see if it matched the rest of the deck layout?

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

Posted

yea.......lacquer is different.  I like it because it's a harder finish than varnish,  making it less impervious to dents or dings.   drys quicker too.  the admiral doesn't like the smell when I use it on smaller parts....larger areas are done out of the room, closed off with ventilation.   the big drawback though is humidity......very touchy about that.  it will turn white......I had a heck of a time with it,  when I did the decks on the United States.   lacquers are used in wood working more than plastic though....the hue and sheen can better be controlled,  since it will sink into the wood....just sits on top of plastic.

 

airbrushing can be very tolerant......the paint doesn't have to cure all the way.   if it's dry to the touch,  then you can continue on with what your doing.   don't introduce a brush though.......it will activate the paint laid down and cause it to smear,   orange peel,   or a number of other adverse reactions.  acrylic paints are really nothing more than pigments and suspensions,  used commonly in water color and artist's paints.  the line is drawn when you get into the oil based paints,  which the common thinner is mineral spirits......varnish also falls into this category.   lacquers and enamels both contain acetone and petroleum distillants.

 

glad to hear everything matches up OK  :) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

Posted
Posted (edited)

French ... judas

 

But I forgot to tell you, you are doing another wonderful job on these dual barrel turrets, Scott

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

Aha! Those thingamabobs on those turrets are the optical rangefinder covers. Those were Plan B. If the ship's internal fire control systems went down and they had to use local control, these gave them firing info in the turret (ranges, elevations and bearings). They didn't fire their guns via open sights.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Posted (edited)

Glad to see your work again Scott. I was starting to go into withdrawal! For some reason My "Unread Content" didn't show your last posting until today!

 

I finally ordered and received the PE sheets needed to do the 1/350 Titanic for my Admiral, (It HAS to have lights as well!) and OMG :huh: that stuff is SMALL!!!! Your pictures make it look like something you can actually see! After I get over the shock I will probably have get a list of the tools you have found most useful, other than a magnifying optical system that would normally only be used by a Micro-surgeon!

 

Optically challenged Lou  

Edited by lmagna

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted (edited)

I sympathize with your moving woes. I have done it a couple of times with models, some made it and some didn't do so well. If the distance is short them I have had the best luck in putting them in the back of the car with pillows or foam for protection and take them by them selves. Longer moves, not so easy! It also helped that almost all my ships were RC so they were a little tougher than your normal shelf kit.

 

I still may be a little while on the Titanic as I think I am a little intimidated by the project and I also just started my sloop Providence build and want to make some progress with it before I branch out to another "Never done that before" build. Plus, like I said I still need some tools before I start working with this PE stuff.

 

Meanwhile I will avidly be following your build and see how it is done before I have to try my pitiful attempt.

 

Get back to work now, I need my next lesson!:D

 

Me again 

Edited by lmagna

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted

If the pillows don't give enough support, use rolled up blankets.   I used the blanket method for the move about 10 years ago.  These were tall ships and needed support so as not to fall over.  Mission was a success.  No damage and all ships out of harms way.   Also, but them in a "safe" room until all the furniture is out.  Then move them to their new home. For a safe place, I used the benches at where I worked (IT guy and had a large lab/office).   Drew attention for a week but no damage from the visitors.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted

Depending on the age of your daughter, responsibility level, the value of the bribe, and ultimately her fear of daddy she may be a better choice. 

 

A 30 minute drive may be too close though. I have moved across states where it took two days of driving quicker, and was easier than it was to move six blocks! When you move long distance you get a BIG truck................. When you move down the street you do it a few items at a time and it takes WEEKS.

 

If I ever have to move again I will drive to a hotel, have dinner out and show up in a day or two AFTER the movers have done their thing! Either that or sell everything we have and buy all new at the other end! I live in a 120 year old three story six bedroom Victorian house with winding stairs up and a full basement down! A condo would be a walk in the park!

 

Lou

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, lmagna said:

Depending on the age of your daughter, responsibility level, the value of the bribe, and ultimately her fear of daddy she may be a better choice. 

 

A 30 minute drive may be too close though. I have moved across states where it took two days of driving quicker, and was easier than it was to move six blocks! When you move long distance you get a BIG truck................. When you move down the street you do it a few items at a time and it takes WEEKS.

 

If I ever have to move again I will drive to a hotel, have dinner out and show up in a day or two AFTER the movers have done their thing! Either that or sell everything we have and buy all new at the other end! I live in a 120 year old three story six bedroom Victorian house with winding stairs up and a full basement down! A condo would be a walk in the park!

 

Lou

That...  exactly that.   A very good plan in my opinion.   I think I'm in the same boat but with one exception... my tools, wood supply, and ships all go with me. :P

Edited by mtaylor

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted

When I used to enter model shows/contests, it was always a challenge to get the models to the show without damage. Supplies to make emergency repairs upon arrival was always a must.

You always hope you don't need to make any sudden stops or changes of direction that might upset the model, and anything could happen but probably won't. Good luck!

Posted

A half hour drive up a highway and it's not even a tall ship? Phhht ;). She'll be right mate, back seat of the car will be fine :D.

 

I've moved a 1:96 HMS Victory over a windy mountain road in the FRONT SEAT of a Toyota Pickup truck without damage. Although I couldn't use 2nd and 4th gears because my elbow would have broken off the bowsprit :o:D.

 

Danny

Cheers, Danny

________________________________________________________________________________
Current Build :    Forced Retirement from Modelling due to Health Issues

Build Logs :   Norfolk Sloop  HMS Vulture - (TFFM)  HMS Vulture Cross-section  18 foot Cutter    Concord Stagecoach   18th Century Longboat in a BOTTLE 

CARD Model Build Logs :   Mosel   Sydney Opera House (Schreiber-Bogen)   WWII Mk. IX Spitfire (Halinski)  Rolls Royce Merlin Engine  Cape Byron Lighthouse (HMV)       Stug 40 (Halinski)    Yamaha MT-01   Yamaha YA-1  HMS Hood (Halinski)  Bismarck (GPM)  IJN Amatsukaze 1940 Destroyer (Halinski)   HMVS Cerberus   Mi24D Hind (Halinski)  Bulgar Steam Locomotive - (ModelikTanker and Beer Wagons (Modelik)  Flat Bed Wagon (Modelik)  Peterbuilt Semi Trailer  Fender Guitar  

Restorations for Others :  King of the Mississippi  HMS Victory
Gallery : Norfolk Sloop,   HMAT Supply,   HMS Bounty,   HMS Victory,   Charles W. Morgan,   18' Cutter for HMS Vulture,   HMS Vulture,  HMS Vulture Cross-section,             18th Century Longboat in a Bottle 

Other Previous Builds : Le Mirage, Norske Love, King of the Mississippi

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