Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale

[Chuck]

Erik....Does this help?   You should join the group.  What would be better to get your ship model juices flowing again.  The new model is abut 15 -16" long for the hull.  Then you have to of course add the mast ...yards and rigging. 😊

 

[EJ_L]

Still interested for sure!

[Erik W]

Chuck,

 

That's perfect!  Since I have an identical 1/48 scale longboat sitting on my shelf, that definitely helps me visual the larger boat's size.

 

Thanks!

Erik

[JpR62]

Still interested. This longboat is a beauty !

[MikeB4]

How much will the boat kit alone cost, Have you determined that yet?

[Chuck]

Yes......more or less.   For a complete kit of all of the parts you will need to complete the hull (including friezes) it would cost $170 -  $175.   That is all cedar with boxwood accents.   

 

I am not sure what the starter package will cost which I originally stated would include the keel parts and frames along with the plans and base board. That was originally going to come in at around $110.  But then folks wanting to scratch the remaining parts including the planking would still need to buy the cedar sheets to complete the hull.  It doesnt make economical sense to have a starter package because after you buy the additional wood sheets you will need, it would end up costing about the same anyway.   But if you guys still want it, I will provide one.  I thought most would see that it doesnt make economical sense and instead would rather have all the laser cut parts anyway.  I am not pricing this kit to far beyond the materials and laser costs.   I want to see more people join the group and build the kit together.

 

The kit has about 25 laser cut sheets and additional strip wood, brass strip, wire and fishing line etc.....and the printed friezes.

 

What do guys think?  I think its quite affordable considering the new 1/2" scale MS kit which is basswood will cost you about $125.   I think its well worth an additional $50 considering the differences in the two kits.

 

The rigging package will follow but in all honesty you guys can get that stuff anywhere....I am thinking another $30 - $35 or so but it depends on the sail materials or silkspan.   But you guys can pick that stuff up anywhere.  Rope, blocks, wire, brass strips, Deadeyes and sail material with a flag.  The original hull kit will come with the rigging and sail plans.

 

Chuck

[MikeB4]

175.00 is more than reasonable for what your getting. Will there be a hard copy of the instructions with the kit or is that something that would be downloaded?

[Chuck]

That will just be a PDF to download like every other kit monograph/instructions I write.  It keeps costs down.

 

Chuck

[Jim Rogers]

Very,very reasonable. I have spent more for a lot less quality.

[JeffT]

I have no issues with paying the 175 for the full kit.

[Chuck]

Thanks guys.   Its time to make the windlass.  Some people may get nervous about shaping a piece of wood like this.  But if you just take your time and go slow it will go well.   I created templates that will be glued to all four sides of a 3/8 x 3/8" stick of cedar.   I used a glue stick to attach the templates.  Note how the stick is left a bit longer than the templates.  The ends will be rounded eventually to a cone shape.  I will wait to check its fit before I do that and trim each end to fit the space.

 

Then the corners were removed and sanded down to match the template as shown below.  I used a sharp #11 blade initially to remove the material quicker.  I shaved off the corners carefully and stopped just short of the line ob the templates.   Then I finished it up with 320 grit sandpaper.  I also drilled the holes for the windlass bars.  I used a #40 drill bit.   

 

The templates were removed easy enough by wetting them down and then they come right off.  I cleaned up the edges a bit by sanding and tweaking the edges until it looked nice and crisp.  Then I used my #11 blade again to carefully square up those holes.  The finished windlass up to this point is below.  Remember that I still have to reduce the ends to a cone shape so the windlass fits inside the brackets along the risers inboard.  That isnt a finished handle for the windlass.  That is just a 3/32" x 3/32" strip test fit in each hole.   I used a boxwood strip which is a hard wood.  It helped to make the square holes nice and crisp.  Just push them into the holes gently.  You can use any square strip this size even a brass strip which I didnt have handy.

 

 

You can see the windlass in the contemporary model below.....next I will be shaping the ends and adding the brackets so it can be installed.

 

 

 

[Rustyj]

Hi Chuck,

 

Great work while I've been away. I love the workmanship and the size comparison was real nice to see.

The price point is very reasonable too. At that you better make a whole lot of kits!  

[GuntherMT]

Getting close!  Your pricing seems more than reasonable to me, and I am definitely still in for the group build.  The sooner the better! 

[gjdale]

I’m definitely still in too, Chuck, and your pricing is more than reasonable.

[deaz]

I've already set aside funds for this. Patiently waiting for you to release it out into the wild. It looks fantastic, and I'm eager to try to do the kit justice. 

[Moab]

Chuck; are you still looking for individuals to take part in the build? I'm not a great modeler but would like to be part of the group if space permits. In any event.... this build log is awesome!!!! Moab (aka Allan Glass)

[Chuck]

Thanks Allan.  Anyone can join in.  I will say once more though,   this is not a beginner model project.  It is very challenging.  But its hard for me to judge because I designed the thing.  Having said that,  I am sure that within a group environment there will be much encouragement and many ideas and suggestions to help you problem solve.  That is the power of a group project.   I learn things every day from folks and many of those tricks and tips were used while I built the prototype.

 

Chuck

[Chuck]

FYI.....as some have asked for dimensions of rigged model.   Rigged, this model will 23 1/2" long and 18 1/4" tall.  😊

This is the rigging plan for those that wont want to add sails...

 

[Chuck]

Ok Guys.....put your thinking caps on.  What if any type of flag (1742) should we fly on the mast?   Lets see some images...

 

 

Chuck

[Dowmer]

I personally like the red one above. But that's just my preference. 

 

 

[Richmond]

Is there a historical relevance to the flag colours? , I have seen blue used as well. The biggest errors that people usually pick up on are:

 

it being mounted upside down;and

changes made as other countries were absorbed into or  joined the union, I am sure the Stars and Stripes has changed similarly.

 

 

If I have interpreted things correctly, a rarity, the one you are showing doesn't seem to have come into use until 1801 however I am sure there are some Union Jack experts on the site who can advise better than me.

Edited October 7, 2018 by Richmond

[KenW]

Richmond is correct.  That Red Ensign doesn't have the 'red X' for Ireland.  You want this one.

Edited October 7, 2018 by KenW

[Tim Murphy]

The colour of the flag was based on what Fleet the ship belonged to.

The Admiral of the Fleet chose the colour. It could be Red, Blue, or White.

The Red Cross is the English Flag, or the Flag of St. Andrew. The White 

Cross with Blue back round is the Flag of Scotland.

This is the Union Flag of 1705. The Flag of the Royal Navy, as we know it was

used from 1865 on. The White Flag with the Union Flag in the upper corner and 

the cross of St. Andrew

 

 

 

 

[mtaylor]

Here's a link I found that basically tells you all you might want to know about British Naval Ensigns (including streamers.

https://www.crwflags.com/fotw/flags/gb-enshs.html

[Richmond]

Fantastic resource Mark

Tim the flag of St Andrew is Scottish ,  the  flag of St George is English

Edited October 7, 2018 by Richmond

[KenW]

I corrected my error on my earlier entry.  The red ensign was used by all civil and military ships not under the command of the Admiral-of-the-Blue or the Admiral-of-the-White.

Edited October 7, 2018 by KenW

[Chuck]

The Windlass is completed and installed.   All I had to do was reduce the ends of the windlass until they were cone shaped and able to fit into the slots of the brackets.  I just dis this by hand a little at a time with some sandpaper.  I constantly tested and adjusted the cone shape until it slid into the slots easy enough.  This meant shortening each side slightly.

 

The brackets are laser cut.  I removed the char and added the bolts while off the model.  I used black fishing line as usual.  The brackets are glued directly to the riser between the thwarts but actually under them.  This left a space on the bottom edge between the frames and the bracket as expected where it hangs below the riser.  So before gluing it into position, I added a 1/16" x 1/16" strip to the back, bottom edge of the bracket first.  This made it so the bracket was seated firmly against the frames and riser.  Before adding the bolts I held the bracket against the riser so I could mark the locations for them.  You can see how some line up with the frames.  While others are just into the riser.  This detail is shown on the plans.

 

The two windlass bars were shaped from a 1/8" x 1/8" strip.  I just rounded off one end as you see below by chocking it in my hand drill.   Then I squared off the other end as shown on the plans so they would fit in the square holes of the windlass.  I will only show one in position and just rest the other atop the thwarts.  But in the photos you see both installed just for the fun of it.

 

 

[Jim Rogers]

When the handles for the windlass were not in use where they stowed in brackets or just under the seats?

Looks like they would constantly be in the way if left in the windlass.

[Chuck]

Just under the thwarts but on most cont. models one is shown in place and the other rests on top of the thwarts.  The mast was portable and not permanently stepped remember.   They would unhook the rigging and store that as well.

 

Everything about the rigging and masts were portable so the boat could be brought onboard the frigate and stored at the waste.

[Chuck]

Moving along to the mast thwart...

 

The ironwork was fairly straight forward.   I used 1/16" x .025 brass strip to make the three straps needed to hold the mast in position.   I of course drilled the three holes for the two bracket straps while the brass strip was flat   (#74 drill bit).   I used the plans to find their placement.  Then I bent the two brass straps to shape around some scrap wood the same thickness as the thwart.  The final iron strap was bent around a 3/8" dia. drill bit because that is how big the mast will be.  Then I bent back the ends so I had a half circle remaining.   Then the three pieces were blackened and glued into position.

 

Once glued into position below....I drilled through the holes in the straps part way.  Then I inserted small lengths of 24 gauge black wire into each hole.  I carefully filed them down so they stood proud of the straps and looked like bolts.  Then I touched up the blackening a bit.

 

I turned the four belaying pins from 1/16 x 1/16 boxwood strips in my dremel.  I use the flex shaft with the small pen-sized head while I turn the belaying pins to shape.  Here is a photo of Mike's belaying pins from Cheerful which are done the same way.

And this is what they look like finished on the thwart.

 

 

Next I will complete the knees along the sides of this thwart and the forward -most thwart.   That will complete most of the interior work before rigging starts.  Although I will make some oars and a grapnel too.  😄  That will leave the rudder and tiller and a few last details and the hull will be completed. and ready for rigging.