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Posted (edited)

POST One Hundred and Sixteen

 

Working along the waist

Waist Gunwales

These need to be considered in conjunction with the Gang boards that run between Quarterdeck and Foc’sle.

On my build the gangway boards will be separately fitted to match the decking and follow the imprinted deck pattern.

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Fortunately the combined depth of the kit deck pattern plus gangway pattern is the same as the deck pattern plus individual planking.

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Before I start there are two large cleats to fit along bulwark, the aft one for the fore braces, and the forward one for the Main course tacks.

Fortunately I won’t be troubled by the dubious pleasure of belaying these lines beneath the Gangboards and between the guns.

Fitting these gangboards is a tricky business, I seem to say that a lot in my log, but that’s because it’s true at least in my case.

 

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*The Gangboards should slide beneath the qtr deck and Foc’sle  Breast beams and butt against the outer bulwark.

The Starboard side fitted better than the Port side, but both needed tweaking to reduce the inner bulwark height a tad so when the  capping rail was put into place it slips over and cleanly down on the gangboards.

*See footnote at end of post

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*On my build I found no reason to trim the gangboards on their outer edge as indicated in the blurb.

 

*See footnote at end of post.

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There is a lot of ‘on and off’ the model dry fitting. This is not a process to rush.

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*Once happy with the dry fit work can continue.

The best advice I can give is scrape the inner bulwark top until the gangboard outer edge  sits flush with the outer bulwark, and the capping rail (gunwale) slips over the top into position without gaps.

*See Footnote at end of post.

 

The knees are position specific, so it’s a good idea not to mix them up during the necessary char cleaning and painting.

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I use double sided tape a lot to keep things in order.

 

 

Fitting the knees is an interesting little exercise which involves marring the previously painted bulwarks to improve adhesion.

The knees fit neatly into the slots pre cut in the deck clamps and a pot of water and a fine brush is handy to remove pva overspill.

 Not too onerous a job, knee 391 adjacent to the Qtr deck proved the most tricky. I found using bent nosed tweezers helped with alignment.

With the knees in place the main worry is will they hold during the gangboard fitting.

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I found it necessary to  tweak the tops of the knees a little to allow the gangboards to sit down, but the sanding process at least  pressure tested  the bond with the sides. (one came away)

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The gangboards  glued into place, no easy way to go back at this point.

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It is useful at this point to check how the step from the Qtr deck to the Gangway performs.

In the kit the risers are represented by 2 x 3mm rectangular Pear strip(438) and 0.6mm treads (99)

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I’m feeling a little underwhelmed about the look of the step which to my eye lacks both style and practicality, I don’t think they will pass muster.

 

I’ll terminate this section while I’ll ponder on how I can improve the look. I  do have some ideas floating around my head.

 

B.E.

05/05/22

*Footnote: I have had cause to revise my opinion about the fitting of the capping rail and Gangways. To keep the Capping rail level particularly if you are using the pre-etched planking pattern I think the Manual instructions 549- 553 should be followed.

If the Capping rail is fitted over the Gangway boards as I originally did the camber will be followed and will throw the Hammock cranes out of vertical.

Thanks to Ron (Hollowneck) for pointing out this issue.

 

B.E.

07/05/22

 

Edited by Blue Ensign
Posted

Post One Hundred and Seventeen.

 

Trouble with steps.

Not over keen with the block of wood steps provided in the kit I looked around for a more period  appropriate version.

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The arrangement on the Amazon (5th Rate 1773) looks about right, and not that difficult to replicate.

It looks like John McKay used the same arrangement in his AotS book on Pandora, presumably taken from the contemporary Amazon model.

 

Firstly the QD front drift rails patterns need to be fitted, remembering to bevel the underside to match the camber.

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All that is needed to modify the steps is a piece of 3mm Pearwood, loads of it available in the used frets, and a knee between the bulwark and the Qtr deck breast beam.

These were fashioned from some 1.5mm fret.

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Too early to fit at this stage but the Newel post will be fitted at the same time as the QD rail.

I suspect I will have to fashion a new Newel post when the time comes.

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The platform was faced with Boxwood strip, but of a narrower width than the main planking.

 

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The inner face of the Gangway will tidied up when the Newel is fitted.

 

Back to Gunwales next.

 

B.E.

06/05/22

 

Posted (edited)
On 5/5/2022 at 9:34 AM, Blue Ensign said:

On my build I found no reason to trim the gangboards on their outer edge as indicated in the blurb.

Ditto, I found this suggestion to trim the gangway patterns in the instructions very curious and not necessary. Your improved steps for the gangway look excellent. Good researching on the McKay/Amazon information and coming up with a clever solution. 

I've noted a similar quirk in your waist capping rails to my wrestling with this area of my build: both caps lean outboard and by different angles. In dry fitting I was able to reduce some of this unfortunate disparity by carefully trimming the bulwarks - which process did result in having to remount several of the supports. When you proceed to mount the hammock cranes this "tilt" to the cap rails will be quite apparent. I improved this issue in my build, and you surely can too!

Edited by hollowneck

 

Ron

Director, Nautical Research Guild

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner)

Completed Builds: HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS GodspeedHMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

Posted

Thank you, Bob, Stephen, and Ron.

 

@ Ron -  There should be a camber in the Gang boards to match the decks.

The capping rails are only loosely in place in the photos but I will take extra care when I come to glue them to address any issues.

The thought just struck me that perhaps that's why the blurb says to trim the boards to run alongside the capping rails rather than under them.🤔

 

Having  aroused my curiosity  I will simply have to test the cranes prior to gluing the rails. 🙂

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

Posted

Post One Hundred and Eighteen

 

Re-visiting the waist rails

Having received a gypsy’s warning from Ron (Hollowneck) about possible issues with the level of the rail and fit of the Hammock cranes, I looked again hard at this area.

The camber of the outside plank of the gangway does cause the rail to angle outboard which will have an effect on the crane angles.

 

Nothing for it but a little de-construction.

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Fortunately because I have individually planked the boards I can remove the outer plank, and level the surface of the underdeck.

Had I been using the kit engraved boards I would not have been able to adopt this approach and would  have to have fiddled with the inboard underside of the capping rails to achieve the same affect.

 

Best advice follow the kit  instructions on this aspect.

 

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The next plank inboard is also removed and replaced with one scribed to meet the inboard side of the capping rail, as per the kit instructions.

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The Capping rail now sits  level.

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Tricky to get the Hammock Cranes to sit vertically without glue but  I think they are going to be ok.

 

Annoyed at my lack of foresight in this matter that has cost me several hours work, but at least with wooden models there is little that can't be re-visited.

 

Just the starboard side to do now and then I can move on.

 

B.E

07/05/22

 

 

Posted
2 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Having received a gypsy’s warning from Ron (Hollowneck) about possible issues with the level of the rail and fit of the Hammock cranes, I looked again hard at this area.

Good problem solving B.E. A little camber to the cap rails is O.K. Mine aren't perfectly level but must less awkward looking after I "tweaked" the bulwarks and supports. The hammock cranes , once rigged with their rope lines are easier to keep aligned. No glue in the openings, just the tension of the thin rope keeps them in-place.

 

Ron

Director, Nautical Research Guild

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner)

Completed Builds: HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS GodspeedHMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Post One Hundred and Nineteen

 

Fun with volutes.

With the  rails completed between the  Foc’sle and Qtr Deck I turn my attention to the volutes either end.

Not too impressed with my own  fixing of these decorative features, they look like a lot of fettlin’ is required, all down to me no doubt despite Chris’s best efforts.

Made up of four laminations fitted at differing times I clearly failed to get the alignment spot on.

Fortunately these are to be painted which at least allows rectification to be made with some extra work.

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The Foc’sle  volutes are easier to fettle than those of the Q’deck.

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Filling along this Quarterdeck section was also required to produce a smooth surface matching the Gunwale strips, the aim is to mask the lamination lines.

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I used  Winsor and Newton modelling paste to fill any gaps and beef up the volutes.

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With that done I can fix the Q’deck gunwales in place. As with those of the Foc’sle  I kept the inner edge flush with the bulwark and  applied a slight round to the outer edge.

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There is a lot of re-touching of the paintwork not only of the Gunwales but the inner bulwarks and Topsides.

 

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The transom knees are now fitted having applied a coat of red to the Transom, and the gluing surface then scraped away.

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I found these knees the very devil to fit; even with chamfering the fit was poor and I found it necessary to fill the join along the Transom edge.

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The Breast rails beckon.

 

 

B.E.

15/05/22

 

Posted

Post One Hundred and Twenty

Quarterdeck Breast rail

This is a nicely designed assembly with parts that slot together with a good fit.

The main job is the finishing of the Balusters which the blurb indicates need shaping to form a roundness.

No easy task this as the area to work on is very small, and the rectangular profile of the Balusters doesn’t lend itself for uniform rounding.

In retrospect I think it may be better to clean up the Baluster and leave it as is rather than try to apply a round to the bulbous section.

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Even char removal has risks of  changing the profile so a very light touch is required

 

I have decided to leave the Balusters bright as indicated on the Marshall painting, but the two lower rails will be blackened to match the  bulwark rails.

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The middle rail  I heat treated to match the camber and used line to secure the ends until the glue set.

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I don’t think I will be fitting the hammock cranes to the rail.

I wasn’t  too  keen the way the Balusters turned out and I was tempted to rip them out but that would probably have wrecked the rails as well.

The saving grace is that other than at macro level they don’t really impact on the eye. (well my eyes anyway.)

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Capt. Grim tries out the rail for scale, undecided whether to paint the rail or leave bright,  but I can defer that decision until the Quarterdeck rails are in place.

 

The kit provided Newel posts were replaced with ones that better suited the Gangway modification. They were made from some 2x2mm Pear square stock.

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The Newel posts were on and off the model a dozen times as I kept perceiving one or the other was out of plumb. Deffo out of plumb in this shot.

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Eventually they satisfied my eye and the rail could be fitted.

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The final part is the delicate scrolled Handrail.

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Very careful handling is required with these pieces during char cleaning, but Chris has provided two spares should mishaps occur.

 

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I note on the Amazon model that Cavel blocks have been fitted forward of the Quarterdeck on the inboard edges of the Gangway step.

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I decided to add these to Sphinx.

 

 

I’ll leave this area for now and  and look at the Binnacle and ships wheel.

 

 

B.E.

18/05/2022

Posted

Post One Hundred and Twenty-one

 Quarterdeck fittings

 

I start with the ships wheel

I quite like the look of the wheel, even given its flat etched profile.

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 I was torn between a white or Red colour scheme, I liked both, but settled on Red in the end because that is the colour indicated on the Marshall painting, and there is no other white paint on the model.

 

To prepare the Brass etched wheel I chemically blackened it to provide some bite for the paint.

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After initial thinned coats were applied, undiluted paint was used  to beef up the spoke profile. The spokes outside of the rim were painted using Ochre Brown.

 

Standards

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I did note a slight misalignment of the engraved panel work on the standards, seemed to be off centre. I don’t know if this a poor example on my kit, but hopefully it won’t be too obvious with the Binnacle afore it and the Mizen behind.

 

Before securing the forward standard  I added a thin sleeve between the standard and the wheel, otherwise the wheel would bind against the standard.

 

At the point the Upper deck was fitted, way back, I had secured the tiller rope so that they may be rigged should I decide to do so.

Two separate lines were placed below the Upper deck, one fixed on the Port side, the other running on the Starboard side, and temporarily tied off.

 

With the Wheel assembly in place rigging the tiller lines can be done.

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Starting on the forward Port side an odd number of turns were taken around the  drum  I chose five as being appropriate, a nail being secured thro’ the centre turn into the top of the drum.

It is a fallacy that  the rope runs were fully expended along the length of the drum.

With the turns completed the Port line is spliced to the Starboard line and gently teased thro’ the  deck slots.

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The running end of the Starboard line  which emerges thro’ the aft ladderway of the Upper deck is then used to pull the now joined lines taut.

This is the tricky part hoping that the spliced line doesn’t part below decks.

A spot of glue is applied to the line where it passes thro’ the deck in the Coach.

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Before passing thro’ the Quarterdeck the lines pass thro’ a device called a Sliding foot which for model purposes was fitted on the lines before they passed around the drum. There is some work left do on these but they needed to be fitted at this point.

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Adding the wheel makes a big difference to the look of the model, and I am pleased that this is a good match to the Marshall painting.

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These photos mark the tenth month of this build, and there’s a fair way to go yet.

 

I will next look at the Binnacle.

 

B.E.

20/05/2022

 

 

 

 

Posted

Post One Hundred and Twenty-two

 

Quarterdeck fittings – The Binnacle

These are not often shown on contemporary models, the Amazon model is a fairly rare exception. I am undecided at present whether I will include it, but that’s no reason not to make one up.

 

 The kit offering is quite a detailed construction with brass etched representations of the compass within the glazed compartments, and complete with a fine brass chimney.

 

The style is of the type as fitted to HMS Victory and indicated in the drawings of the Pandora AotS book.

But… there’s always a but, to my eye the Victory style doesn’t sit well on Sphinx, it seems somehow out of period, and I think a simpler affair, similar to that fitted on Pegasus is called for.

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I was tempted by the more elaborate version shown on the Amazon model and reproduced on Chuck’s Winnie model (above). It does look wonderful, but again I thought it a little too fancy for a sixth rate.

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115 Trincomalee Binnacle.

The versions on Victory and also Trincomalee are of the same type with glazing both sides of the binnacle cabinet.

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Amazon model Binnacle.

The contemporary Amazon model Binnacle only has lights facing the Helmsman.

 

I had a look at the French version shown in Boudroit's epic tome The Seventy-four gun ship. Here the binnacle cabinet is fully enclosed  using vertical sliding doors and with only an angled and lidded viewing compartment for the Helmsman.

 

 For my purposes I think the provided kit item can still be used but toned down to a simpler form.

 

A tale of two Binnacles

I seem to have ended up with two Binnacle sets so I can have two bites at the cherry.

 

Version one.

The kit item has inset panels defined by char which present a problem if the the Binnacle is to be painted.

It is the very devil to clean off the char and smooth these small square panels, less necessary  if the item is to be simply varnished.

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Here I blocked off the the open lights of the fore side using small square infills, as with the central light on the aft side.

The chimney was dispensed with and replaced by a wooden vent atop the Binnacle.

 

When I exposed the completed item to the harsh macro eye, to say I was displeased with my efforts is a gross understatement.

It is far too destressing for public view, and the above photos are as close as I dare let the camera get.

Version one will not stand.

 

Version Two

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On this version I chose to replace the fore side of the Binnacle with a plain wooden board, without the lights, and reverse the other parts to have the panel decoration  inside.

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The central (light) compartment on the aft side was converted into a solid door.

The central light compartment is closed from view to the Helmsman to avoid glare which may compromise night vision.

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This option made painting a much easier  prospect and improves the chances of getting a better finish.

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The final  task is to apply a suitable motif design to the forward face.

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I trialled several but settled on the Amazon design as created by Chuck for his Winchelsea.

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Needs a little fettlin’ around the edges to blend in.

 

After a weekend  working on the Binnacle I’m still not sure whether to include it on the model, it does  mask the forward view of the wheel.

 

Moving on….

 

B.E.

23/05/2022

 

Posted

  Hey B.E. - I totally understand where you're coming from in terms of whether to include the binnacle. Your dedication to representing a contemporary model version is a cool avenue to take. 

 

    That said - I do love m'self a good binnacle, and yours is quite nice.

Posted

Hi B.E. I just got caught up with your wonderful work on the Sphinx. It was such a pleasure! 

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

Posted

Thank you James, bug, and Rusty, and for the 'likes'

 

@ Chris - do stop it - you torment me Sir,😉

 

Post One Hundred and Twenty-three

 

‘Elf n safety considerations – Guard rails

The ladderway stanchions are represented by brass etched posts with an eye, thro’ which line is threaded.

For this particular function the kit style is a bit of a simplification so I look for alternatives.

 

I can just about make out what appear to be iron stanchions around the Q’deck ladderway on the Marshall Sphinx painting, so iron stanchions it will be.

The stanchions do need to be removeable as particularly with the Quarterdeck ladderway operation of the Upper Capstan is a consideration.

I note on the Amazon model that hinged covers for the hatchway are also in place, presumably to allow for foot passage when working the capstan, as well as weather considerations.

 

For the stanchions I am going to use the same system  I adopted for Pegasus, which was based on the detail in the fffm Vol 11.

The makings involve having donor stanchions, the ones I use are 0.9mm ø with a 1.3mm finial. For the rings 0.3mm eyelets, (Caldercraft) are used, and 0.5mm ø brass rod for the rails.  A spot of silver soldering is required to bring it all together.

Silver solder paste in two melt points 690º and 671º is required.

 

Full details of the procedure can be found in my Pegasus log (page 4 – post 91)

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The biggest part of silver soldering is  setting up the parts.

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The second is the cleaning up afterwards.

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Trial fitting the rails before blackening.

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Meanwhile on the Upper deck Capt. Grimm is no doubt thinking,

‘What lubberly idiot designed the main ladderway access to open onto the Main hatchway, between the stanchions for the pump handles, which then have to be negotiated for access to the Upper deck.’

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I understand that he did tentatively raise the issue with the Dockyard Superintendent, but was given short shrift, who was he to question the work of the renowned  Naval Architect  Mr John Williams.

It is perhaps not unsurprising that Capt. Grimm does not appear on the list of  commissioned Captains of Sphinx, but at least he avoided the ignominy of being taken by the French.

 

Lets hope a general ‘all hands on deck’ isn’t signalled  at the same time an urgent need to man the pumps is required.

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These are fiddly little beggars to fit but best done before the Quarterdeck  rails are fitted.

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B.E.

24/05/2022

 

Posted

Great use of silver soldering - those stanchions look superb.

 

Derek

Cheers, Derek

 

Current build:   Duchess of Kingston

On hold:              HMS Winchelsea

 

Previous builds:  HMS SpeedyEnglish Pinnace, Royal Yacht Caroline (gallery),

                            Victory Cross-section (gallery), US Clipper Albatros, Red Dragon (years ago!)

 

On the stocks:    18th Century Longboat

Posted

Post One Hundred and Twenty-four

Pumps

These are the Elm tree  pumps either side of the Mainmast

One of the errors on many kit models is that the pumps are shown sitting vertically on the deck. In practice the long  tubes of the pump were inclined from the deck down to the bilge near the keel.

The kit version is made using Walnut dowel but this feature can be enhanced for authenticity  by using square stock  and making the shape octagonal which was the usual form.

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The kit does provide a very nice etched pump mechanism to sit atop the tube, notwithstanding that it looks more 19th century than 18th to my eye.

The design has been taken from drawings in the AotS book on Pandora, which is the only one in the series that seem to have this style.

I did find a reference to brakes being fitted with  quadrants in 1789, but I have not seen such a type represented on contemporary models.

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The simpler form of pump as fitted to Pegasus and Alert, above, is I think more period  appropriate.

 

Still the kit version is too pretty to discard, that is unless the pedant in me overwhelms the appeal to my eye.

 

This is a fiddly item to assemble, certainly with fat slightly arthritic fingers.

Ca is used to assemble the frame which has implications for the blackening process.

Thorough cleaning is essential prior to the chemical blackening of the mechanism to remove all traces of ca. The first blackening reveals any residual ca stains which can then be addressed.

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The detail is impressive, Chris has to be congratulated on producing this, look at the teeth on the ratchet, this is tiny stuff.

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The octagonal shape of the pump can be seen here.

A final touch is to add the discharge pipe at the lower end of the pump and include a representation of  the iron hoops around the top and bottom.

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It is a pity that such nice little items will mostly be hidden, even on a Navy board style model such as mine.

 

B.E.

26/05/22

 

Posted

B.E.

these pumps look great, I like them very much...

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Posted

Thank you Nils.

 

Post One Hundred and Twenty-five

Quarterdeck rails

A slight dilemma 

The kit shows six extended timberheads used to support the  fife main rails along the Quarterdeck; this accords with the Admiralty drawings dated 1775.

The Marshall painting however shows three of those supports (the 3rd,4th ,& 5th) looking suspiciously like  swivel gun mounts.

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The rounded tops extending above the rails and the faint lines of the posts can be made out.

I was surprised by the absence of swivel posts when I first saw the kit, they were almost de rigueur on ships of this period.

After consideration I decided that discretion is the better part of kit bashing, and will follow the Adm plan.

 

Firstly the timberheads.

These are all position specific so not getting them mixed up during sanding and shaping is important.

Working from aft I removed each pair sequentially and cleaned and fitted them before moving onto the next.

 

The rail (Fife / Rough-tree/ Quarter.

All names given to the rather elegant rail that runs along the bulwarks from stern to the break of the Quarter deck.

One of the things I like about this kit is the fineness of the Quarter rails. No re-making as I had to do with the over-sized rails on Pegasus.

These ones are a three piece lamination, but are long and delicate items that require careful handling.

I gave them only a minimal sanding as they are to be painted.

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These shots show the Quarter rail just resting on the supports, a testament to the accuracy of the slot cutting on the underside.

 

 

One of the kit fittings along the gunwale is PE151 described as a boom ring, this sits just forward of the Main Brace sheave.

This features on the contemporary Amazon model and also on the Pandora drawings. However, in those vessels the Main Brace sheave is placed below the gunwale, with the ring atop.

I’m not entirely sure what these rings were for but I’ll take a punt that they were used to pass a horizontal boom through either side to attach emergency steering gear to.

They do not appear on the Sphinx Adm. plans or the Marshall painting, so I’ll omit them, but for those not overly concerned with such minutiae they do add a little more interest to the model, particularly if you wish to jury rig the rudder.

 

Another major milestone along the way, there is not much left to do on the Quarterdeck.

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Sphinx is such a pretty little Frigate, a good choice for Chris to have added to his line-up.

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With the rails in place Sphinx is really starting to look to be nearing completion, but I reckon I have a few months work yet to enjoy.

 

I now have  eight nine-pounders to make-up to complete the ordnance, not one of my favourite jobs.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

28/05/2022

 

 

 

 

Posted

Looking absolutely superb. I can't wait to get started on mine, and shall doubtless use your log to guide me. I hope you're going to get Chris's Indefatigable in due course as I regard you as the trailblazer on all these great kits and will shamelessly copy your research and enhancements 😬😁

 

Derek

Cheers, Derek

 

Current build:   Duchess of Kingston

On hold:              HMS Winchelsea

 

Previous builds:  HMS SpeedyEnglish Pinnace, Royal Yacht Caroline (gallery),

                            Victory Cross-section (gallery), US Clipper Albatros, Red Dragon (years ago!)

 

On the stocks:    18th Century Longboat

Posted
On 5/20/2022 at 10:06 AM, Blue Ensign said:

Before securing the forward standard  I added a thin sleeve between the standard and the wheel, otherwise the wheel would bind against the standard.

Nice detail. the slotted entry for the rope makes really good sense!

 

Ron

Director, Nautical Research Guild

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner)

Completed Builds: HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS GodspeedHMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

Posted
On 5/24/2022 at 11:44 AM, Blue Ensign said:

Lets hope a general ‘all hands on deck’ isn’t signalled  at the same time an urgent need to man the pumps is required.

Details, m'Lord, mere details.

 

Ron

Director, Nautical Research Guild

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner)

Completed Builds: HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS GodspeedHMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Blue Ensign said:

I’m not entirely sure what these rings were for but I’ll take a punt that they were used to pass a horizontal boom through either side to attach emergency steering gear to.

These puzzled me too. The large "hoop"- as well as the symmetry - is certainly something not intended for running rigging. I'll bet you're correct on these serving as crutches for a boom used for emergency jury-rigging broken rudder steerage.

 

Ron

Director, Nautical Research Guild

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner)

Completed Builds: HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS GodspeedHMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

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