Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build

[Chuck]

I made up another alternative as I wasnt sold on the color of the original I made.   I think this one will blend in more readily with what I envision for the model.  Regardless ...both with be made available and folks can choose.  I wanted a darker and larger blue field which this new design gives me.

 

 

[No Idea]

Chuck I like the one on the right - it looks like the sea has had a go at it and looks just right.  Just my thoughts.

[jfhealey]

Three topless young ladies in one post Chuck? I guess you are fully recovered from your recent close shave with pneumonia??

Just for balance and while having no wish, on principle, to disagree with a fellow Englishman  - I like the one on the left.

Very best wishes

Fred

[yvesvidal]

Yes, the dark blue looks better in my humble opinion. I used Ultramarine Blue on my Bellona: 

 

 

Yves

[Chuck]

LOL...I suppose I could have put those two Syrens in a pants suit for the more conservative model builders out there.  But I think it best to stick with the typical imagery used during the time period.   

 

I chose the syrens for an obvious reason.   If I can sneak one into a project I am working on I wont pass up the opportunity.

 

And by the way...choosing a frieze of the best color and shape is not an easy task at all.  I may yet do a third version.  Its a big part of the models visual appearance.   I look to find actual friezes used on Contemporary models and then adapt them to my projects and change them up.  Adjusting the shapes and colors etc.  The inspiration below....adapted for the Speedwell.  Oneof my all time favorite contemporary models. If I could find the drafts for this I would build her in a second.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chuck

[scrubbyj427]

14 minutes ago, Chuck said:

LOL...I suppose I could have put those two Syrens in a pants suit for the more conservative model builders out there.  But I think it best to stick with the typical imagery used during the time period.   

 

I chose the syrens for an obvious reason.   If I can sneak one into a project I am working on I wont pass up the opportunity.

 

And by the way...choosing a frieze of the best color and shape is not an easy task at all.  I may yet do a third version.  Its a big part of the models visual appearance.   I look to find actual friezes used on Contemporary models and then adapt them to my projects and change them up.  Adjusting the shapes and colors etc.  The inspiration below....adapted for the Speedwell.  Oneof my all time favorite contemporary models. If I could find the drafts for this I would build her in a second.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chuck

I find myself studying Endymion on the regular, probably one of the finest most complete contemporary models out there! That quarter gallery is so attractive, I would love to build this one. I’m surprised there are no drawings at all. 
 

Both of your friezes look fantastic! I’m slightly more drawn to the left but not by much.

[Chuck]

The color is off on the left version...too orange for me and wont go with Speedwell.  I may have t adjust the color on that left version but it takes forever to do.

[Beckmann]

Is the model above HMS Endymion from the science-museum?

Matthias 

[Chuck]

Yes it is.  Absolutely gorgeous. 

[bdgiantman2]

I found this link: https://forum.game-labs.net/topic/6373-endymion-1797-the-fastest-ship-in-the-rn-with-plans/

[Hubac's Historian]

2 hours ago, Chuck said:

LOL...I suppose I could have put those two Syrens in a pants suit for the more conservative model builders out there.  But I think it best to stick with the typical imagery used during the time period.   

 

I chose the syrens for an obvious reason.   If I can sneak one into a project I am working on I wont pass up the opportunity.

 

And by the way...choosing a frieze of the best color and shape is not an easy task at all.  I may yet do a third version.  Its a big part of the models visual appearance.   I look to find actual friezes used on Contemporary models and then adapt them to my projects and change them up.  Adjusting the shapes and colors etc.  The inspiration below....adapted for the Speedwell.  Oneof my all time favorite contemporary models. If I could find the drafts for this I would build her in a second.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chuck

I like this alternative version just above, but I think the scroll work to either side of the stern post entry would look better if it more closely followed the outward billowing form of its inspiration.  I think it will make for a better interplay with the purple field color.

Edited April 25, 2023 by Hubac's Historian

[Chuck]

I believe that model is misidentified.  It looks nothing like the class its supposed to be.  I think its much earlier as well.  But I dont think it is the actual endymion.

[Gregory]

There are some drawings of an Endymion at the WIKI Commons, but they look nothing like the model.

 

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich&filefrom=DISCOVERY+1901+RMG+J7441.jpg#/media/File:ENDYMION_1797_RMG_J5174.jpg

[uss frolick]

The model is indeed of the Endymion 44, of 1785, a later sister to the Serapis/Roebuck, etc, owned by the Science Museum, in London. The central window arch in the stern gallery is certainly unique. She later wrecked in the Bahamas, striking was to become known as Endymion Rock. The later Endymion 40, of 1797, was built to the lines of the captured French La Pomone, and in addition to fighting the USS President in 1815, she was the fastest frigate in the RN. 

[Arthur Goulart]

I found Endymion on the RMG website, gents: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-81924. As per described by the Science Museum,

built in 1779, 44 gunner. 

Funny, my untrained eyes wouldn't think such a beautiful ship came from those plans.

Edited May 3, 2023 by Arthur Goulart

[Chuck]

The Speedwell castings arrived.   Just like the Winnie these are cast in a very light Tan.  Almost white but not.  This is a big help for the finishing.  They were treated just like those on the Winnie.  See the unfinished quarter badge on the can of gel stain?

 

I used Old Masters gel stain.   The color is Fruitwood.  This is the best color for our purposes in my opinion.  Just brush it on and let sit for a few minutes.  The longer you leave it on the deeper and darker your color will be.   Dont leave it on too long...you can always add another coat after it dries.   

 

Brush it off before it dries however with a soft clean brush.  Almost buff it.  The more you brush the more you will remove.   This evens it all out while leaving darker bits in the deeper areas. But not overly so. 

 

The one drawback with this method is the parts tend to get shiny.  But a quick spray with some dull coat after it dries does the trick.   The color matches quite well as you can see.  This preserves all the detail as well because unlike paint, this does not build up and obscure the small details.

 

[TBlack]

beautiful result. I wish these were in 1:48 scale. As it is not, I'll have to figure out how to carve them myself!

[BANYAN]

These are some of the best ornamentation (gingerbread) I have seen - very nice Chuck.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Chuck]

Thanks Pat.  I will be painting the ports red this weekend in preparation for planking the hull.  Hopefully planking will begin next week.

[Chuck]

The first thing that needs to be done in preparation for planking is to paint the port openings.  It is much easier to do so now and those familiar with all of my Syren projects will recognize this step.   I am using the same Crimson Acrylic red for this model that I use for all of them.   

 

One note however,  rather than just start painting,   this model has many laser cut sweep ports.   The insides of the sweep ports have laser char on them.   You really cant successfully just paint over that.   The red wont cover it and will appear too dark.  You dont want to sand it off.  That would be bad.  It would change the precision shape of those port openings.  

 

Instead of sanding,  I painted the insides of the sweep ports with a very light tan first.   This will cover the char without compromising the shape of the sweep ports.   I mixed Titanium White with some brown and yellow Ochre.  Once that paint dried I switched to the Crimson.

 

One additional note....The quarter badge opening and window area was painted tan and will NOT be painted red.   This will be left tan as the great cabin will remain unpainted.

 

Once the painting was complete I taped the two templates into position on both sides of the model.

 

This is a VERY important step.   Just like when using a batten,  you must view the hull at all angles.  Ensure that the template is even on both sides of the hull.   The bottom edge of the templates represent the top edge of the wales.   You will be carefully tracing along the bottom edge of each template to mark the location for the first planking strake to be placed on the hull.

 

Make sure the run is good and at equal height at the bow and stern both port and starboard.

 

I forgot to mention that you should cut out all of the sweep ports and gunports from the template before taping it on the hull.  In addition,  cut out the fixed blocks on the templates too.   You will be tracing and marking the exact locations for the fixed blocks and the sweep port covers as well as the bottom edge of the templates.

 

We will be adding the sweep port covers to the hull soon so we can plank around them.  The same is true for the fixed block shells.  

 

Use a hard lead pencil so it keeps a sharp point longer.  Yes the lead will leave a lighter line but it will be more precise. Use a 4H or even a 6H pencil for marking the hull.

 

When you are done tracing these elements and the bottom edge of the templates, remove the them carefully.  We will be using them again many times.  Cut away any tape that hangs over the edges of the template.  Dont try and remove it...the template will tear.   Then store the templates safely for later use.

 

Here is what the hull looks like after removing the templates.

 

You can hopefully see my reference line that shows the top edge of the wales.  But its hard to see the sweep port lines in the photo.  Thats OK.  Just know that they are there.  You can see the locations of the fixed blocks.

 

We will be adding the first strake which represents the first layer for the top of the wales.   This is probably the most crucial of planking steps.  So take you time with it.  If the run and fit for this first plank is wrong then all of your planking will be wrong.   It will be hard to recover from that.

 

The strips are 7/32" x 3/64" Yellow cedar.   I have a whole bunch of them ready to go.  All have been matched for color.  All three strakes for the wales are 7/32" wide.  Try really hard to align the top of the strip with your reference line on the hull.   Make sure you match the placement port and starboard.

 

I wont rehash how to plank and how to bend the strips.   I have done that so many times.   Just refer to the tutorials and many logs on this site.  Or download the respective chapters for the Cheerful or the Winchelsea.   I am using a travel iron and bending and twisting as usual.  The first strake or the upper wales have been completed.  At least the first layer.  I prefer to use two layers.  You could however just use a thicker strip and complete the upper and lower strakes in one layer instead.  Its up to you.   But I personally prefer two layers because I think I can do a much better and cleaner job with the painting and placement.

 

With this upper wale in place...now its time to add two more strakes of the same width and thickness below this one.   It sounds easy enough,  but remember to get a good tight fit against the strakes already on the hull.  I am also using a #2 pencil to shade one edge of each strake to simulate the caulking.   Although on the upper and lower wales its not important.  Its only the first layer.  I would however simulate the caulking on the middle layer of the wales because it is only one layer thick.  I a referring to the butt joints only.

 

One last very important note:   When gluing these three strakes for the wales onto the hull, make sure you glue the strips to each and every frame.   Its the planking that will hold the hull together when we remove the top jigs.   So the frames need to be really secure to the planking.   Place a drop of glue  (your choice of PVA or CA) to each and every frame as you proceed.  When we complete two or three strakes above the wales later,  thats when we will remove the top jigs and establish the sheer properly.  So thats coming up soon.   If the planks arent secured to the frames it might be a disaster in the making.  But maybe not.  I am just a nervous Nelly.

 

 

[chris watton]

What a superb looking model!

[dvm27]

You've produced a beautiful hull, Chuck. For those nervous Nellies such as you and I it wouldn't hurt to add small spacer insets between the top of the frames with PVA. Once the hull is faired and a clamp added they can be removed with isopropyl alcohol.

[Chuck]

Thanks Greg....I am hopeful that with 5 strakes carefully glued to each frame it wont be an issue.  But that is good advice.

 

Chuck

[druxey]

Yes, if planking goes over, no need to remove the spacers.

[Chuck]

I finished the first layer for the wales.  Basically I added two more strakes below the first that was added.   I show this image because its the first that gives you a good indication of what the hull will eventually look like.  This is as low as the planking will reach on the hull.   Everything you see below the wales is left unplanked and these frames will remain visible.   I do love a fully planked hull though.  Its my preference actually.  But like everyone else,  I would be crazy to cover up all of that hard work with the frames.

 

I will add two more strakes now above the wales.   They are also 7/32" wide.   Then it will be time to remove all of the top jigs.   Yippeee!!!

 

Chuck

 

[kurtvd19]

Chuck:

Beautiful model!  Have you considered planking one side with the other left as it is at this point?

[Chuck]

I have to plank everything above the wales because that is not historically accurate at all.  But yes I did think about also planking one side in its entirety. 
 

But I may just push forward with the interior work and not do that.  There will be so much other stuff to do and if I fully planked one side I may never get done with this model.

 

Although its going a lot faster than I thought it would.  For me anyway as I consider myself a really slow builder/designer.

[bwross11]

This is, and will be, an absolutely amazing model.  I am blown away by your skill, truly inspiring.  Perhaps I'll get there if I live to 100!

 

Bruce

[Mark P]

Good Evening All;

 

I absolutely agree with all the comments above about the quality of Chuck's craftsmanship, and the level of skill required to develop a kit.

 

To add to the debate about the model of the Endymion, which is indeed a very beautiful model, this is the 44 gun ship of 1779. She was photographed in the archive store of the Science Museum, and was formerly on display in the Museum, where the model was correctly labelled as the Endymion. 

 

When the Museum display was dismantled, there was some mixing of models, I think, because at the time the photographs were taken, the model was actually catalogued/identified as a 74 gun ship, I believe it was the Ajax. I am not certain of her whereabouts now, as the model of the Ajax was returned to the former Royal palace at Kew, from whence she had apparently originally come; but unfortunately, it appeared that the model of the Endymion had been returned in place of the Ajax. 

 

Whether this has been corrected in the intervening years or not, I am not aware. I will have to visit Kew one day and try to see what I can discover there.

 

For those who are interested, the photographs of the model are in the gallery of completed models on this website. 

 

All the best,

 

Mark P

[Chuck]

So after the 3 strakes of the wales were completed,  I started working my way towards the sheer.  There are five more 7/32" wide strakes above the wales.   So far I have added two of them.   I wouldn't normally post an update for simply two strakes of progress.  But in this case its good to point out a few things.

 

First, with five strakes now on both sides I think the hull is sufficiently solid to remove all of the cross jigs along the top of the model.   But I could very well have just kept going.  But above this last strake is where you have to start notching the planking around the port opening and sweep ports.  So I thought this was as good a time as any to remove those jigs.

 

In addition,  I would note that on many ships the planking above the wales is pretty straight forward.  There is no real tapering of the strakes at the bow or stern.  So you can more or less just use planking strips all the same width (in this case 7/32" wide).   But for Speedwell,   these five 7/32" wide strakes do in fact taper at the bow.   At least they should if you want the end up with a proper run of your sheer.  As you can see below.

 

These five 7/32" wide strakes will taper from about the forward sweep port and get narrower as they hit the stem.   So there are many ways you can do this planking.   You could literally pasted this template onto a 3/64" thick sheet of Cedar and cut your planks out.   They would be the exact shape you need.  And yes I could simply laser cut them for you but it is unlikely that the cedar I use for these would match in color with the cedar you use for the remainder of the planking.  So folks will have to cut their own.  

 

You could also transfer the lines from this smaller template of which a PDF copy will be available...to your hull frames.  This would give you the tick marks for your individual strakes and you would proceed to plank just we did on the Winnie or any other model.  There are so many ways to do this.  You guys can pick your own.   As this project is considered an advanced one,  I wont repeat myself and do a blow by blow on how to properly plank a hull.

 

Here is my hull with those two additional planks above the wales.  I used a 4H pencil to simulate caulking.   

 

Remember that the strakes for the wales have no taper at the bow.  Those are straight 7/32" wide strips.   BUT, the next five strakes above the wales do taper at the bow as discussed.  

 

 

So if the hull is not sufficiently strong at this point so I can remove the cross jigs then something is seriously wrong.  These five strakes are very carefully glued to each frame.   So everything should and will stay intact after we remove them.

 

To start this process...The first thing I did was remove all the tape along the top of the jigs holding them together.  Easy-peasy.

 

Then I just used a pair of nippers....flush cutters,  to snip the strips on the cant frame jigs first.

 

This will allow you to actually remove the whole jig after you cut those strips on both sides.  I see lots of inboard fairing in my near future!!!

 

Then I repeat this process at the stern for those cant frames.   But the very aft jig should just come right out.  Then just repeat the process to remove the aft cant frame jig.

 

 

So far so good.

 

Next I started tackling the extensions for all of those cant frames.  For this I prefer to use my home-madesaw.  Its basically just a scroll saw blade in an Xacto knife handle.  Its has fine teeth but is somewhat wide to prevent bending while in use.  I just cut myself a short length of blad to insert into the handle.

 

Start carefully cutting the extensions.  As you can see below...I am sawing them off one at a time.  But I am not sawing along the sheer too closely.  I am cutting in the center of the notches cut from the top-timbers.  I want some wiggle room when I finally establish the proper sheer.

 

With those removed for all of the cant frames we are almost done.   Now we must tackle the jigs for the square frames.  I am just using the very same scroll saw blade to cut the top timber extension on the port side.  Then I do the same to the top timber extension on the starboard side and the cross jig for that square frame will be freed.  

 

When all of the cross jigs are removed,  you will be ready to establish a proper sheer.  To do this we need to use our trusty templates once again.  Place them back on the model.  Line up the bottom edge of the template with the top edge of the wales.  This will give you a nice idea where the  sheer of the model should be.  With the template on the model I am going to use various sanding sticks to bring down the top timbers so they are flush with the top of the template.  In a few cases the sheer may fall higher or lower than those notches on your frames.  This is fine as long as you match the template.  We will be adding a fairing cap to the top of those frames in the next step.   
 

I have lots of inboard fairing to do!!! 
 

But I will wait to start that until after the outboard side is completely planked…for extra strength for the hull.   

 

 

 

bow planking strakes template.pdf