HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype

[JPZ66]

Chuck, what an amazing project you have going ! Simply beautiful !

 

A note on heat... I have used only heat when bending strips for kayak building.... Rather than me trying to describe it, Here is a link ( source that I learned from ).....

It is midway down the "shop tips" page.

 

http://www.laughingloon.com/shop.tips.html

 

 

Maybe others will find some of this info useful !

 

 

Cheers,

 

Joe

[hwe]

Hello Chuck, hello Jan,

 

some introductionary words: I love deeply such small Cutters and similar ships! - And I also admire Chuck's work in general. I love his Syren and I love this little ship, too! It looks great and if my list of models I want to build wouldn't be so long, it would surely have a very high ranking on my list. - Which makes it noch fully impossible that I will build her, some day... (Can anyone spare one or two more lives for me? )

 

Back to the windlass:

 

I was looking at postings #64 and #71 (of this thread) at first.  #71 shows a real "fail" in my opinion (sorry to say so!).

 

The handlebars would surely break the windlass in real live, just because there is so extremely little material that could hold the bars. - And then let a heavy anchor work on that...

 

Chucks first images (#64) show a different version, but not far away from that.

 

But in posting #75 you can see what I mean. - This windlass is rock solid and would surely work, even with heavy weights!

 

Chuck's current version is much better than the one in posting #64 and may work, but I still like the one in posting #75 better. - But that's my personal taste!

 

I'm not claiming that I know everything (especially better... ), but I say that this is what I saw while scanning through the thread and I believed, was a mistake. - I guess, the first pictures were only of a testing version?

 

Chuck does it right, by letting me (and everybody else) do as I wish.

 

And that is why I really love your work in general, Chuck! Excellent craftmanship combined with a brilliant brain and well mannered.

You let others do what they think is right and you are doing really outstanding work!

 

Keep it all up!

 

Sincerely yours,

 

Herbert

 

BTW: Jan, the windlass on the picture in #183 differs obviously from the plan on which it lays...

Edited December 5, 2014 by hwe

[Chuck]

Thank you 

 

I do have more images though.......and a couple of contemporary drafts.   But yes it was done both ways.

 

 

[KenW]

Upon reading the post by Joe (JPZ66), I'm wondering if the head method that the link describes has any possibility for bending planks for the hull of a model.  We would need 3D bend, and I don't know if that would work.  I'd be willing to try it.  Has anyone else tried it?

[JPZ66]

Ken,

 

Yes, it works. I have used this technique on 1:1 scale kayak building AND on model ship building. A couple of things to consider for scale models.....

 

1. I have an industrial heat gun, not a cheap copy....as is, I found the smallest tip to be too wide for modeling so I created a new tip with a much smaller opening to focus the heat better. Used on the low blower setting it seems to work well.

 

2. The small area that we need the heat in required some additional things....a really good pair of gloves, and sometimes some shielding for the parts of the strip that dont need the heat. I took a piece of 16" long x 8" wide sheet metal and made an elongated slot in it...about 1" wide and 2" long.....then bent the metal into a sort of "C" shape.....the window on the top. It can be clamped to the workbench at the bottom.

 

When I have needed to do so, I pencil mark the location of the bend, then put that plank under the shield and line up the area of pencil marks to the slot or "window".. Aim the heat gun at the opening and heat up the plank....bend / heat / bend / twist...until you are satisfied. The shield help keep heat off the rest of the plank and protect the hand a bit.

 

All my stuff is packed up or would show you a picture, but I think you get the idea...it's really simple.

 

Joe

[Chuck]

Yes it works...I basically do the same thing with a  hair dryer.

[Chuck]

I added the first two strakes below the wales.  This was to get the drop plank out of the way.  The drop plank was shaped from a piece of card stock first just to get the hang of it.  After I was satisfied that it fit OK I  cut the real ones from wide stock the same thickness as the planking.  They were pre shaped as you can see.  You can also see my pencil on the edge to simulate the tarred seams. Now I will line off the remainder of the hull into two belts and finish the planking.  I also painted the first of many layers of red paint on the counter at the stern.

 

Chuck

 

 

 

 

 

[S.Coleman]

Good work Chuck ! Such a nice clean sharp build you have. I have waiting for me the HM cutter Mermaid. So eventually when I start that I will be using this build as a reference. If that's ok of course.

[ASAT]

I am liking that red stern Chuck, that was a great choice, it really blends well with the gunports and helps to set them off. It is going to look great done with redheart!

[dvm27]

Lovely, Chuck. It matches your planking plan beautifully - almost like you planned it 

[michael mott]

Chuck you really do do a lovely job with the planking.

 

Michael

[Fam]

Chuck, I see you are starting the planking wih your usual technique: is the drop plank under the wale a british standard only? Or a common use? I've not given up completely wih this technique, and just bought a roll of tanganika veneer to test the spiling for the 2nd planking, but my hull is French built so I'm not sure which standard I should stick with...

Thank you

Fam

[rtropp]

Chuck,

Beautiful work, as always.

For the plank under the wales, did you use your laser cutter or cut by hand?  If by hand, did you use the cardboard strip as the template or go back to your plans?

 

Thanks,

Richard

[Chuck]

Thanks....

 

Fam...Yes its standard English practice.  To have one drop plank under the wales.  If you look at most contemporary models you will see this.  This particular drop plank was shown on a "planking expansion" draft for the Cheerful.  I am following it pretty darn closely.  This will be exactly as shown on that contemporary draft.

 

Richard,  the drop planks were cut by hand.  I found its shape just like I did in the tutorial I posted.   I used wide packaging tape.  Once traced,  I removed the tape and transferred it to some stiff card stock.   I cut it out as a test piece.  Once I was satisfied I simply transferred it to the boxwood sheet.  You cant use the plans because of the foreshortening at the bow.  You must make take the space from your model directly.

 

See the tutorial here...Even though the Winchelsea doesnt have any drop planks or steelers its the same method used.

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Lining%20Off%20your%20hull%20for%20planking.pdf

[Kevin]

chuck - that looks fantastic - I am loving following this build,

[Chuck]

Thanks...I am fixing up the wales as we speak.  I will post another picture soon after its done.  I noticed after I posted the photos that that I didnt take the wales down at the bow enough before painting them.  Basically, in actual practice,  the wales would fit into the same rabbet.  Therefore they would not be thicker than the surrounding planking at the bow where it enters the stem rabbet.  They gradually reduce in thickness until they are the same as the surrounding planks.

 

This is a nice little detail that no one would probably ever notice but after its done it will make the model even more historically accurate.  I am reducing the thickness right now and will repaint.

 

See this contemporary model from the rogers collection...notice how the wales dont stand proud of the planking along the stem rabbet.   They are flush....and all fit into the rabbet nicely as compared to my model which will soon be all fixed up.  This is true for most ships during this period including frigates like the Winchelsea.  But because its one of those little details often overlooked...I always forget.... and have to go back and fix it later.  Its a carry-over habit from my kit building days where this is never mentioned.

 

I also included a picture of a mermaid class frigate 1780ish.   Look at the stem where the wales enter the rabbet.

 

 

 

 

Chuck

[Chuck]

I have started to line out the hull for planking.   There are 20 strakes under the wales.   The first two are already done....those were the ones with the drop plank.  So I measured midship for the remaining 18 strakes.  They will be 3/16" wide.   Interestingly,  the strakes fit perfectly as they did on the contemporary draft.   There will be just two belts of strakes.   The first will have the remaining 8 under the wales.  The bottom belt will have ten.  Basically the hull was split in half down to the bottom of the square tuck as shown in that contemporary planking expansion.

 

 

I used black line tape to split the hull into the two belts.  I am spending a great deal of time examining it from all angles until I am pleased with it.   Then I marked along the tape and removed it.  All there is left to do is to take the space remaining in belt one on each bulkhead and transfer it to a tick strip.

 

 

The tick strip is divided into eight with the help of the planking fan.   Then the tick marks are transferred back to that bulkhead.  Once again I am amazed at how the cutter is so well designed by the naval architects.  Almost every bulkhead except for the four forward bulkheads have strakes exactly 3/16" wide.  Its a straight run to the square tuck with 3/16" planks.  No tapering/widening required in this first belt . Only those at the extreme bow need to be tapered which is a huge time saver.

 

 

This will not be the case in the lower belt.  The strakes will get wider at the stern as they run off the hull and also require tapering at the bow.  But it should be a very very close match to that original planking expansion for 1806.  Yippee for me.  It all worked out.

 

I also started fixing the wales at the bow which you can see in the photos.  They are now the proper thickness entering the rabbet or nearly so....almost there!!

[druxey]

That things match the contemporary planking expansion must give you a warm feeling! Good stuff, Chuck.

[usedtosail]

Chuck, that planking looks great. And thank you for the drop plank lesson. When I was planking the MS Constitution the drop planks just didn't seem right, as I had to edge bend the "tail" to fit the previous plank. I see that you tapered the previous plank at the end to prevent this. Next time I will know to do it right. Thanks again. Also, the MS Constitution instructions and plans show to taper the wale planks at the stem.

[tkay11]

Chuck, this may be a daft question, but for those of us that work in metric, will there be any problem when it comes to using your plans to build our own Cheerfuls?

 

Tony

[Chuck]

I dont think so....You should be OK.

 

Chuck

[Kurt Johnson]

Chuck,

 

Have come across any good resources for cutters like Cheerful, other than AOS. Alert?

 

Kurt

[Chuck]

Not Really Kurt

 

There are a few magazine articles,  the Peterson book on Rigging,  A few other books may have a nugget or two, but thats it.  Its pretty much spread all over the place.  You really cant count on the AOTS book for Alert.  Its much earlier than Cheerful.  The cutter didnt change all that much but there are still vast differences in some areas.   Its also has a few errors in it which have been discussed to death.  The windlass is one of them.

 

Luckily there are quite a few contemporary models of cutters out there.  There are also tons of plans for cutters on the NMM site.  AND the Cheerful plans are excellent in every respect. Very detailed which is why I chose it.

 

I pent the day planking.  Got the first belt done ob the starboard side.  It went quickly.  Only eight planks.   The starboard side is now half planked.  I must complete the square tuck on the starboard side next before I can plank the lower belt.  Luckily because its a POB design and NOT a fully framed model,  I dont have to follow actual practice for building the square tuck.   So based on my design I can do one half of the tuck at a time.  I am eager to get it done to see how it will work out.

 

Once the square tuck is done then I will plank the remaining 10 strakes in the lower belt....then I must repeat the process on the other side.  

 

Chuck

 

 

 

 

 

[Kurt Johnson]

Thanks Chuck, I love to read and love to get a "feel" for the subject. I personally like these little guys more than the big ones. I think they have more character. And unless you have a McMansion, fit better!

Kurt

[Chuck]

This model is actually not that small.   At 1/4" scale the hull is 17 3/4" long......fully rigged she is 29 1/4" long....and 25.5" tall.

 

Chuck

[GLakie]

Mighty perty planking there Chuck!  Nice and clean.

 

Fair Winds

[dvm27]

Beautiful run of planking, Chuck. As one who is now working on the square tuck on a fully framed model I can appreciate the difficulties of following actual practice. I like your solution.

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Chuck,

I've a question to your planking. If I look at the planking sheme of your cutter, I found a vertical triangle under the counter. As far as I understand will the planks end before that. You've also drawn this but you did not use this in the praxis. Is there a special reason or is it a simplification?

 

Your planking looks really brilliant.

[Jaekon Lee]

Hi, Chuck. What a beautiful cutter you are building! Recently, I started building 'Naval Cutter Alert' and, with your log, I found it is almost same ship to Cheerful. So, your building log is quite helpful to me. Thanks.

 

Lee

Edited December 12, 2014 by JK Lee

[Mirabell61]

beautiful planking in your post #207 Chuck,

 

I love the way you do the absolutely smooth and precise single layer planking. Here the rather thick Frames provide a good base for glueing...

 

Nils