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GrandpaPhil
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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil
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Cardstock makes excellent templates. Once you find what fits, trace it on the wood. Then just flip it over and trace the other side. Unfortunately, sometimes it comes down to trial and error.
- 103 replies
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- new bedford whaleboat
- model shipways
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Thank you for all the likes and the comments. Working on the head and the bow. I made a few trim pieces and two small carvings. I’m getting set up to build the head pieces and the head rails. It’s slow going and very finicky. That’s the fun part for me.
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Both knees installed:
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1 knee complete with moulding
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I’ve been told before that I taught the mule how to be stubborn, lol.
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This model has lots of issues. I started it before I had the skills and knowledge to build it right. That’s how I learn though. It has more flaws and more problems than I can count (including a twisted hull). Some originate from the age of the kit (1991). Most originate from my mistakes and inexperience. I had only built two real ship models prior to starting this one. I built the Model Shipways Sultana and the Mamoli Endeavour. I had built a few small boats before, but nothing approaching the complexity of this one. I have a Lessons Learned file the length of my arm from this one that I will carry forward to the Triton, which will be my next build. The point of the remainder of this build is for me to get better and is being used as a learning project. I’m having a lot of fun experimenting with it.
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Good eye, Vane. I ended up breaking the cut water and re-glueing it to straighten it. The picture still looks a little wonky but that’s my bad photography.
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Thank you, Mark! I made the catheads tonight. I carved the moulding into the side of them. I also glued the pattern for the lateral braces onto 1/8” basswood. Those will be cut out tomorrow.
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Congratulations on the win! It’s well deserved! Awesome work!
- 82 replies
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- carl vinson
- trumpeter
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Keep at it!
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The only downside is weight, but if you are not worried about weight, then there is no downside that I know of.
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I used the same type of copper tape as YT. It has worked beautifully for two models now. It also patinas beautifully in a few months, even under sealant. Speaking of which, make sure that you wipe the copper plating down well and seal it to prevent a thumbprint from oxidizing into the hull and only becoming visible two months later. I may or may not know from personal experience.
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The original was shaped wrong. It came out too far and didn’t rise enough. The AOTS plans for the head wouldn’t work if I had left it as it was.
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I also punched the hole for the bowsprit. I took pictures of it test fitted.
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I punched the hawse holes through the hull. I have the pattern for the wear plate glued to double thickness poster board. I’ll let that dry and cut it out next time.
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I don’t know what these are called, but the hawse holes will be drilled into them. I made them last night, from 1/8” thick basswood sheet, boiled them in a microwave, and bent them. I let them dry overnight to shrink back to size and did the final shaping/installation tonight. Next time I work on the Victory, I’ll be using an electric drill on it, to bore out the hawse holes and the hole for the bowsprit. That should be interesting. One thing that I hate about this kit is that there is no interior to speak of, which is awful when trying to run ropes into or out of the hull. This is another reason that I have been learning to scratch build.
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Mark, Looking forward to seeing progress on your Victory. You’re doing well. Quick question, does the Anatomy of Nelson’s Ships have a sail plan for the Victory?
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Mark, Thank you. The overhead profile for the cheeks are on drawing A8 of AOTS for the Victory, the middle deck, at 1/192 scale. I scaled it up 196% on my copier to get to 1/98 scale. Make sure to leave enough on the end to go all the way to the end of the cut water. I took the pathway from the outboard profile. I picked up my poster board at Walmart. I got an 8 pack for around $5 last December. I still have 2 1/4 sheets left after the Prince de Neufchatel. It sounds crazy, but it works well if you’re going to paint anyways.
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Upper cheeks are on:
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Lower cheeks are in place.
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Thank you!
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