Group Prototype HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)

[Chuck]

I could have built it in 45 minutes.  But I wanted to make sure that you guys slow down.  I have seen so many people rushing through the build.  Some are barely cleaning the laser char and it looks awful.  
 

I am not just talking about the Winnie build.  I am talking about build logs in general.    As kits get more sophisticated with more laser cut parts….Instead of seeing more care, I see rushing through the steps and “assembly” like a plastic kit.  Folks. are not even removing the char….they are just gluing the parts together.   I think folks see my final results and dont really understand how much time I actually spend on each piece.  I thought this would be an excellent opportunity to talk about that.   Its why my model is taking so long to build.   I could rush this model and finish it in  3 months if I wanted to.   
 

So I purposely want to mention that even though I could have assembled the belfry in 45 minutes…I chose to spend 6 hours on it.  Carefully cleaning the char…and shaping the pieces for a best fit. 
 

I wanted to mention it because the areas we are modeling now will show very prominently.  The belfry…the ships wheel….the binnacle….the upper capstan….etc.  This will make or break how your model turns out.  So I want folks to really slow down.
 

Everyone can do it.  They have the skills.  But they suffer from the number one nemesis of  ship modelers…..impatience.

 

Impatience can take a model that would be a ten and quickly make it a five…and I dont  understand it.

 

Everyone needs to slooooow down.  Because it shows.  If I am being honest, when I look at the progress photos in a log for someone....again not just Winnie logs.....I find myself saying,  "That looks pretty good but why didnt they slow down, clean the glue smears,  clean the char,  or fill the gaps."   "Just an extra hour and that would have been excellent."  

 

So I know I have said this 1000 times but I thought this would be the proper time to to offer again some sage mentoring and advice.   Force yourself to take twice as long or even three times as long to build the next chapter.  Slow down and really take your time with the next two or three chapters.  It will transform your model.

 

 

 

 

[Thistle17]

This project gets more and more enchanting with each new step. Truely a marvel in design, production and execution! I might add that your employment of modern technology in laser and cnc machining seems to have no bounds. What could be next????

Joe

Edited October 27, 2021 by Thistle17

[Chuck]

OK  the belfry ….all the parts are laser cut and etched in boxwood.

 

As I explain how its built refer to this photo for details.

 

The belfry roof...

 

The roof is laser cut in two pieces.  Nothing terribly difficult about it.   You could just glue the two haves together and sand it to remove the char.  BUT....the goal here is to make the seam between the two halves as invisible as you can possibly make it.  So before gluing it together, thoroughly clean the edges that will be glued together.  Keep them flat so there will be no gaps.   You may even want to scrape the char from the top surface where the seam will be.  Use Tite-bond or similar glue.  Dont use CA.  You want to be able to position all the parts for the belfry carefully so they are lined up.   With CA once it cures instantly if the two halves are not aligned....it will look awful.

 

Then clean the char off the top and bottom of the roof.  I started by using a sharp number 11 blade and scraped the bulk of it free before using sandpaper.   Ten I used various grits to finish it up.  But the corners where the round top meets the sides was problematic.   So again I turned to my #11 blade.  A new one that was very sharp.  I literally shaved the corner.   I sliced an microscopic layer of the charred wood in that are away to really clean it up.   This alone took a full 45 minutes to one hour.  

 

I rounded off the outside edges slightly and cleaned the char from the sides.   Note how clean you can get these pieces with some time and care.   

 

The uprights...

 

Step one...For these you have a laser cut and etched center with a simulated raised panel.   This piece needs to be cleaned.   There is a another thin strip with two etched flutes that will be glued to the side of these pieces.   So you need to clean the char from the sides of the center piece.  This is so the seam will again be nearly invisible.  Keep the sides flat to avoid any gaps.  The two thin pieces are wider than needed so use the tite-bond to glue them on before you remove the char from the edges.   They will over hang the edge of the center column on both sides so you can sand it smooth and remove the char from the edges at the same time.  Just remember to try and center them so the flutes are in the center of the finished piece.

 

Use a very fine sandpaper.....say 320 grit to finish all four sides.   See above.  There is one finished upright.   You can also see the unbuilt parts.

 

Step two...The top and bottom of the uprights will have a molding placed on the three sides.   The inside of the belfry is flat and doesnt get a molding.    This is the important part....the molding should have the corners mitered.   If you dont miter the two corners, the end grain will show much darker and the profile of the fancy molding wont carry around the entire piece.  So take your time here.   The molding is laser cut for you.   You must clean the char from the top edge of the molding before you start using it.   This is the thin edge will show once glued on the upright.   The molding along the bottom of the upright is wider than the molding on the top.   You will more than enough to cover both uprights.   Again the molding is only on three sides.

 

Step 3...The molding is flat.  But it is now after you just finished gluing it on the three sides.   So the fancy part of the molding needs to be carefully tapered thinner.  I mean really tin towards the edge.  It will give the proper angle to the finished uprights.    I hope that makes sense.  Look at the photos.

 

When you have the two columns done...

 

 

The bell...

 

Carefully sand and file all the char from the wooden piece that the bell will be glued to.   Then use 1/64 x 1/32" brass strips to make the straps that are glued to it.  Just cut tiny lengths like shown on the plans.   The strips are not included so you will need to get some.  There are 3 strips on both sides.  Easy enough.   

 

Then make the handle from the same brass strip size.  Bend it as shown and glue it to the top of the wooden piece.  Next, remove the cheap clapper from the small bell.  You wont want to keep it.   Then glue the bell to the bottom of the piece.  Make sure to center it.   

 

Note how the the little pegs on the side of the wooden bell stock were carefully rounded off.   Drill corresponding holes on the flat sides of the belfry uprights to accept these.  Dont drill all the way through.  Just make little indents.   Assemble the bell between the uprights and then glue the roof on top.

 

Thats it!!!   I made a long-winded explanation but its pretty easy.  The most important thing is to make this a clean fitting.  Clean the char.   Make the seams as invisible as possible.  Take your time.  Fill any gaps.   You can build this in 20 minutes or you can take your time and spend a nice afternoon making a really impressive fitting that will be prominent on your model.

.

 

I need feedback....

 

The belfry doesnt have a lot of parts.  Its not hard to build at all.  At least I dont think so.   But instead of taking 25 minutes to assemble it.   Slow down and take a several hours to "craft" it.   Or is this too much?   Please do provide feedback.   Do you you guys prefer a simpler approach?  Maybe I am making this stuff too detailed and finicky?   I start to second guess if I am taking the part design too far based on how folks gush over the simpler designs of other projects which I find lacking.  But I havent been getting much feedback lately.

 

I ask only because some of the fittings we will be building soon....including the catheads and headrails....they will look fantastic but maybe it will be too much.  Should I dial it back before I make these fittings too advanced?  Are you guys finding this project too hard to build or too advanced... or not enjoyable to build because of it?

 

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

That looks really good Chuck, I've actually been curious as to how you were going to tackle this for awhile now.

 

how did you mitre the sides? Byrnes saw?

JJ

[Chuck]

All by hand....I just eyeballed it.  I sanded an angle into the ends of the molding by eye and just tested it.  There is more than enough supplied to do that.  No need for a saw or even those tiny miter box things.  That will just tear up the edges and look sloppy.   I did the front section first by eye and glued it on, and then the two smaller sides folowed.   The angle of the smaller side sections were trial and error.  I just used a sanding stick and keep changing the angle and testing it.  Because only one side needed to be beveled I started with a slightly longer piece and when the miter fit good I glued it in position and sanded the non-mitered end flush.   If that makes sense.  Sometimes the easiest solutions are the less complex and those that need less tools.  At least it works for me.  They are not nearly perfect 45 degree miters and they dont have to be.

 

Chuck

[Beckmann]

These fittings are really nice. And they are not too difficult to build, for they are already provided  in the right shape and cut out. Of course it is worth the effort. I think you are making it very easy for us, to build an extraordinary impressive model with our average skills and average tools. Keep this level, I am enjoying it.

[VTHokiEE]

2 hours ago, Chuck said:

Should I dial it back before I make these fittings too advanced?  Are you guys finding this project too hard to build or too advanced... or not enjoyable to build because of it?

Your build is very nice and someday I would love to attack it as a challenge, but I don't think I have the patience/time/skill yet. That being said I don't think I would be as drawn to the build if it was dialed down and simplified (will I have the same sentiment when I finally tackle the project? that remains to be seen).

Edited October 27, 2021 by VTHokiEE

[scrubbyj427]

If you have a flat enough sanding block and enough patience it works great that way.

 

regarding feedback on your part designs, I think they work great and yeild wonderful scratchbuilt like results, definitely do not simplify anything as you will sacrifice detailed and accurate results. I find this project much more challenging and therefore much more enjoyable and rewarding to build. I don't think I'll ever build an out of the box kit ever again after this experience.

[Chuck]

Thank You gentleman....I have decided to finish up the forecastle in its entirety for chapter nine.  That means building the fancy rail and the catheads etc....which are important for finally tackling the headrails later on.   I need to make these parts in a way that they not look kit-like.   I havent gotten much feedback on how folks are finding actually building these parts.   So I needed some feedback if I should change up my approach for the next parts which will require a bit more care to build actually.

 

I have been following the latest kits of frigates which are from CAF and Vanguard, and some of the other MFGs etc.  They are all decent kits but personally I think some elements still look a bit too simplified and kit-like for my tastes.   But everyone seems to love them and seem satisfied with the results they get from those.   I dont want to make folks miserable while building the parts on my projects if they dont think the differences in the final results are either noticeable or worth the fiddly extra care needed to build them.  

 

Personally, as Beckman mentioned,  I dont think they are any more difficult to build than those other kit designs but they do require more care and attention when putting them together.  So I wanted to clarify before I spend the time designing the next group of parts for the fcastle and Qdeck.

 

But we will finish the fcastle to complete chapter 9.....and then the qdeck will be chapter 10.   I was beginning to think I over-stepped and you guys prefer the "Mckit design approach" for your leisure time.   Please do continue to give me feedback because I am building this stuff for you guys the way I think you guys want to build it.  But maybe I am wrong so I thought to ask.  Sometimes you guys are so quiet I hear crickets.

 

If you havent read between the lines yet I am trying to subtly prepare you guys for the fact that we are getting very close to making the headrails.   They are probably the most difficult aspect of any model project and I really dont want to design them in way that detracts from what we done so far.  I havent seen one kit on the market today that has done them justice.   So I am trying to gently suggest folks slow down at this point and mentally prepare for them...Just take a look at the headrails done on the kits by those other manufacturers.   These will be very different. And yes...I could have simplified them but based on your feedback...lets give it a go and build something special.

 

Because I design this stuff well in advance,   I am preparing them now actually....I needed to know how far I should push it.  Should I design a 10....or settle for a quick 4 in results.  I wish I could have uploaded some pictures of the rails from these other kits folks are gushing over so you guys can do a quick comparison.  But anyway.....just start slowing down your pace in preparation for them.  Because the headrails on the Winnie wont be something you can finish in a day like I have seen folks do with these other new kits.

 

I might also mention that we wont be building that unusual seat of ease.  I dont think it was actually used.  I think that was made just for the model and I havent seen one like that anywhere.  So we will build the typical seat on the head when the time comes.

 

So prepare yourselves mentally to make some headrails like none you have seen on a kit project before.  It will require a bit more care and yes you will need to go slow.    I am trying to mentally prepare you like a coach does before the big game...use the next two chapters to slow down because the one after those will probably be the headrails.  Its time to put on your game-face.   Print out these photos and start studying them.....look at those angles.  Look at the complexity.  How would you attack them?   

 

 

 

 

[dvm27]

I think anyone who has built Winnie to this stage should be more than capable of making an impressive belfry with your kit Chuck. You can only simplify things so much before it affects the quality of the final product. I've built a couple of your mini-kits and achieved great results with patience and a light touch.

[Trussben]

I agree, PLEASE do not simplify this - it just takes a bit more care than a lot of people are used to taking - but that doesn't mean that a lot of us will not take that time to do it justice.

Just for example - I spent a couple of months LEARNING how to properly line off my hull planking and I'm VERY happy that I did so as I know the result was better and I learned how to do something with more skill.

Keep up the great work and keep the challenges coming!

 

Ben

[scrubbyj427]

Definitely keep this project on the same trajectory, it would be an Injustice if you dropped the ball this late in the game. I've been following the caf builds as well, Tom is very innovative in his designs and I'd love to build Belona and Enterprize but I would implement a lot of what I've learned with the Winnie build to bring them to the same level of detail. You're catering to a different level of modelers. I'm striving to design my Portland project with all of this in mind.

JJ

[Gregory]

50 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Should I design a 10....or settle for a quick 4 in results.

 

While I don't foresee tackling the Winnie, I hope you keep coming with the 10s..  They are a great resource to enhance any kit or scratch build.

[Edwardkenway]

Although I have not got anywhere  near doing these details yet, I have to agree with the previous comments and say go for the 10 and not going simple.

For myself  I'm thoroughly enjoying the challenge of Winnie and trying to create a model to be proud of! 

Edited October 27, 2021 by Edwardkenway
Missing words

[Beckmann]

Chuck, will you add the bumpkin at the bow? The original model has some rigging here, propably just to keep it in place. Will you go here for a similar design?

[Chuck]

Yes I will add the bumpkin....I think its an essential element.   The rigging however isnt essential for a model like mine.   But absolutely folks can add it.   Including a little length of rope for the belfry running down to the gun deck as well.   There are so many options for you guys.  You folks dont have to build it exactly like mine...as your wonderful model shows.   Here is Amazon with bumpkins and no rigging.  Look at those headrails...amazing stuff.  Truly inspired by them.  Note on both that the top edge of the main rail is painted black.   Not always the case but in many instances...

 

And a bunch more photos of other headrail porn.....really soak it up and enjoy.  Contemporary models are an integral part my process.   I cant get enough detailed images.  The last several of the Minerva show the seats as I will depict on the Winnie.  As you can see I kinda get obsessed with what I am working on at the moment which makes it very hard to do anything else.   I am so behind on making rope and blocks it isnt funny.   But my brain wont let me focus on anything else when I have solve the problem of headrail design.  I hope all of those people who need more rope and blocks will understand...this may take a while to get through.  Its super complex.

 

I want you guys to immerse yourselves and study them too.  Its what I do for every detail.  dozens and dozens of photos and I cant explain how much goes into the design and construction of these.   Lots of hours of planning.   You should devour these images in preparation.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Matt D]

Chuck, I think we (the Winnie Group) are all here for the extraordinary.   Please keep giving us the amazing detail you've given us all along.  Most of us are two years into this project and expecting to be on it quite a while longer.  Time is not a problem here (speaking for myself at least).  And you've been working on her for at least four years!  My vote is for doing it the best way possible and I trust you to make it something we can all succeed at.  Your path is different from those other frigate kit manufacturers.   Just as an anecdote - I have a kit I wanted to do for years sitting on a shelf in my workshop.  Now that I've seen your kits and upcoming projects, I'm thinking about throwing that kit in the garbage or giving it away to someone I don't like.

[Jim Rogers]

4 hours ago, Chuck said:

OK  the belfry ….all the parts are laser cut and etched in boxwood.

 

As I explain how its built refer to this photo for details.

 

The belfry roof...

 

The roof is laser cut in two pieces.  Nothing terribly difficult about it.   You could just glue the two haves together and sand it to remove the char.  BUT....the goal here is to make the seam between the two halves as invisible as you can possibly make it.  So before gluing it together, thoroughly clean the edges that will be glued together.  Keep them flat so there will be no gaps.   You may even want to scrape the char from the top surface where the seam will be.  Use Tite-bond or similar glue.  Dont use CA.  You want to be able to position all the parts for the belfry carefully so they are lined up.   With CA once it cures instantly if the two halves are not aligned....it will look awful.

 

Then clean the char off the top and bottom of the roof.  I started by using a sharp number 11 blade and scraped the bulk of it free before using sandpaper.   Ten I used various grits to finish it up.  But the corners where the round top meets the sides was problematic.   So again I turned to my #11 blade.  A new one that was very sharp.  I literally shaved the corner.   I sliced an microscopic layer of the charred wood in that are away to really clean it up.   This alone took a full 45 minutes to one hour.  

 

I rounded off the outside edges slightly and cleaned the char from the sides.   Note how clean you can get these pieces with some time and care.   

 

The uprights...

 

Step one...For these you have a laser cut and etched center with a simulated raised panel.   This piece needs to be cleaned.   There is a another thin strip with two etched flutes that will be glued to the side of these pieces.   So you need to clean the char from the sides of the center piece.  This is so the seam will again be nearly invisible.  Keep the sides flat to avoid any gaps.  The two thin pieces are wider than needed so use the tite-bond to glue them on before you remove the char from the edges.   They will over hang the edge of the center column on both sides so you can sand it smooth and remove the char from the edges at the same time.  Just remember to try and center them so the flutes are in the center of the finished piece.

 

Use a very fine sandpaper.....say 320 grit to finish all four sides.   See above.  There is one finished upright.   You can also see the unbuilt parts.

 

Step two...The top and bottom of the uprights will have a molding placed on the three sides.   The inside of the belfry is flat and doesnt get a molding.    This is the important part....the molding should have the corners mitered.   If you dont miter the two corners, the end grain will show much darker and the profile of the fancy molding wont carry around the entire piece.  So take your time here.   The molding is laser cut for you.   You must clean the char from the top edge of the molding before you start using it.   This is the thin edge will show once glued on the upright.   The molding along the bottom of the upright is wider than the molding on the top.   You will more than enough to cover both uprights.   Again the molding is only on three sides.

 

Step 3...The molding is flat.  But it is now after you just finished gluing it on the three sides.   So the fancy part of the molding needs to be carefully tapered thinner.  I mean really tin towards the edge.  It will give the proper angle to the finished uprights.    I hope that makes sense.  Look at the photos.

 

When you have the two columns done...

 

 

The bell...

 

Carefully sand and file all the char from the wooden piece that the bell will be glued to.   Then use 1/64 x 1/32" brass strips to make the straps that are glued to it.  Just cut tiny lengths like shown on the plans.   The strips are not included so you will need to get some.  There are 3 strips on both sides.  Easy enough.   

 

Then make the handle from the same brass strip size.  Bend it as shown and glue it to the top of the wooden piece.  Next, remove the cheap clapper from the small bell.  You wont want to keep it.   Then glue the bell to the bottom of the piece.  Make sure to center it.   

 

Note how the the little pegs on the side of the wooden bell stock were carefully rounded off.   Drill corresponding holes on the flat sides of the belfry uprights to accept these.  Dont drill all the way through.  Just make little indents.   Assemble the bell between the uprights and then glue the roof on top.

 

Thats it!!!   I made a long-winded explanation but its pretty easy.  The most important thing is to make this a clean fitting.  Clean the char.   Make the seams as invisible as possible.  Take your time.  Fill any gaps.   You can build this in 20 minutes or you can take your time and spend a nice afternoon making a really impressive fitting that will be prominent on your model.

.

 

I need feedback....

 

The belfry doesnt have a lot of parts.  Its not hard to build at all.  At least I dont think so.   But instead of taking 25 minutes to assemble it.   Slow down and take a several hours to "craft" it.   Or is this too much?   Please do provide feedback.   Do you you guys prefer a simpler approach?  Maybe I am making this stuff too detailed and finicky?   I start to second guess if I am taking the part design too far based on how folks gush over the simpler designs of other projects which I find lacking.  But I havent been getting much feedback lately.

 

I ask only because some of the fittings we will be building soon....including the catheads and headrails....they will look fantastic but maybe it will be too much.  Should I dial it back before I make these fittings too advanced?  Are you guys finding this project too hard to build or too advanced... or not enjoyable to build because of it?

 

 

 

This is all a great teaching and learning experience for me. If I had to hand form and carve these fittings I would think it was going over board but you are providing us laser cut parts so it is much,much easier. I admit some are pretty dainty like the railings on top the Quarter Galleries  which I broke months ago. Please don’t dial it back. You also think some of us are rushing, not true. You have only so many hours to devote to this project because you have a business to run and you are designing parts and test lazing. That takes a lot of time. I have hours to spend everyday just on this.The Winnie is all I got to do. Keep up the good work Chuck.

[Matt D]

46 minutes ago, Chuck said:

 

 

 

 

 

This was hand carved by a human being with hands made of flesh and bones!  It's astonishing.  I can't even begin to grasp how and when I try, the questions I have are really perplexing: How did he know when he was done? 100 cuts before this point?  50?  It had to look amazing 10 cuts before this point.  But I'm sure one more cut would have been too much.  Look at the scales on the snake and the feathers on the bird.  The details are all so beautiful.

 

Sorry I got off track, Chuck.  The carving porn overwhelmed me and I overlooked the headrail porn.

[WalrusGuy]

59 minutes ago, Chuck said:

And a bunch more photos of other headrail porn.....really soak it up and enjoy. 

If I may ask, where do you get all these photos? I looked at some models in the RMG site but the photos were not as good as the ones you posted here. Or did you take these photos yourself? 

[Chuck]

I have collected them over the years and also know where to find them and yes many I have taken myself.   But there is a treasure trove closer than you might think.  Just look in our gallery.  The gallery of "contemporary" models is an absolute treasure.   Many of these photos are taken right from there.  I wish that folks would use that resource more and post more in there.   Every chance you get to see a contemporary model...just pick one or two and take about 50 photos of each.  Get close up detail shots of everything.  Then post them in the gallery.   No other forum in the world has such a valuable source of wealth.  

 

Take some time and go through some of them.....some I took but others have contributed a great deal.   If you are close to any museum...help add more.

 

For example....check out one of my favorite albums in the gallery.

 

 

[Jim Rogers]

Love the painted figure head.

 

[WalrusGuy]

9 minutes ago, Chuck said:

I have collected them over the years and also know where to find them and yes many I have taken myself.   But there is a treasure trove closer than you might think.  Just look in our gallery.  The gallery of "contemporary" models is an absolute treasure.   Many of these photos are taken right from there.  I wish that folks would use that resource more and post more in there.   Every chance you get to see a contemporary model...just pick one or two and take about 50 photos of each.  Get close up detail shots of everything.  Then post them in the gallery.   No other forum in the world has such a valuable source of wealth.  

 

Take some time and go through some of them.....some I took but others have contributed a great deal.   If you are close to any museum...help add more.

 

For example....check out one of my favorite albums in the gallery.

 

 

Wow!! Thanks Chuck! I had no idea there is a section for only contemporary models here on MSW. I'll spend a bit of time looking through all of them. Unfortunately there are no naval museums where I live, but I will be sure to add some pictures if I visit one sometime.

[Mldixon]

Well Chuck after my adventure with hull planking, I think the harder the better, for me this is a skill learning experience and I look forward to whatever you toss at us.... as long as it includes some instruction

[dvm27]

Great set of photos Chuck. Did you happen to note that besides the excellent carvings the builder actually carved the volute scrolls of the hance pieces in a delicate floral (?) pattern (1109). I thought it was damaged at first but then noted this feature on all the scrolls. I can see how members of the Admiralty could be influenced at the prospect of receiving one of these models as a gift.

[Stuntflyer]

9 hours ago, Chuck said:

So I needed some feedback if I should change up my approach for the next parts which will require a bit more care to build actually.

I would be very disappointed if you decided to ease up on the level of detail that you have put into the parts for this build.

 

Mike

[Erik A]

Hi Guys

just wanted to add my 2 cents worth.

I have been watching these builds progress for a while now and am absolutely in awe of all of you.

the skill in which these have been built are amazing and to be honest rather intimidating to me.

my skills are far less and to even attempt this would have to devote a fair chunk of time upskilling. i am part way through the de Agostini Victory and also part through the endevour longboat.  struggling a little as i never seem to have enough time.

from a watchers perspective please continue with the 10 build. really enjoying the progress and when i pop onto the page and see that there is another new entry in Chucks build log. well its a real lift for me to see each new part.

many many thanks for starting and sharing these outstanding builds with us lesser modellers.  

[Moonbug]

Good evening Chuck,

 

    To provide some feedback on your patience / impatience observation - this concept is the exact reason I started my first build (the San Juan in 2008).  Without digressing to much, I had just retired from the military and got a job in a pretty 'high-speed' career field as a civilian. I had a type-A, military leader mentality and did everything full-bore. Building forced me to adopt the mindset of taking a little extra time to take something to the next level. My thought process became "If this is a project that (when completed) will last forever, and be passed on to my children some day - isn't spending an extra hour, or day, or even week on an aspect of it worth it?

 

   In all fairness - I still have to remind myself of that regularly - frequently in fact. I get excited about completing an element and I start to rush it. The first capstan I just botched is a great example. But doing it again, and taking a couple extra days to get it right paid off. EVERY time I do that, it has paid off and I feel much better about what I've done.

 

    So I guess what I'm saying is - my personal opinion is to not simplify your belfry or other elements any more. These aren't plastic model kits - they're works of art, and the way you design kits doesn't just teach patience, it teaches us to respect the art.  

Edited October 28, 2021 by Moonbug

[Chuck]

Thank you all for the kind comments.  I am happy that all you (at least those that gave feedback) want to continue as is.  I am glad I am frustrating you guys with these designs.  I will of course continue as is.  I am enjoying it very much but just wanted to make sure you guys were as well.

 

Greg…yes that Amazon model  is one of my absolute favorites.  I came so close to building that instead of the Winnie.  But anyway….six years later I am still thrilled with the Winnie.

 

Chapter 9 may be a while so for all you folks who have caught up,  please have patience…I do not want to rush through it.  And please do slow down a bit as I wasnt kidding…the headrails will need a bit more care and understanding build.  So those will be a stand alone chapter as I suspect a few of you may beed to redo some of those parts along the way.

 

 

[Jorge Diaz O]

Mr. Passaro, we must continue on the path of 10 ... Will you include the anchors? It would be a nice touch hanging from the cats.