Group Prototype HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)

[Stuntflyer]

Beautifully done,  Chuck. It’s all coming together so nicely. I can’t wait to get there.

 

Mike 

Edited December 27, 2021 by Stuntflyer

[dirkske]

On 10/7/2018 at 12:24 AM, Chuck said:

I ship almost anywhere in the world.   Except for China, LOL

Sadly, added 21% vat (at receiving end on top any usa vat), shipping cost and customs % calculated over all the previous plus a flat fee customs declaration cost make that very pricey starter kit 😔

[Chuck]

There is no USA VAT…but yes paying VAT is a problem….but you could always scratch build the parts too expensive to ship for your situation.
 

Thats the beauty of a project like this and being able to buy each chapter as you go.  You only buy what you want when you want it.

 

in addition….for the cost…you will never be able to buy another project like this…

 

with this amount of detail and historical accuracy for the price offered.  You certainly wont find any cheaper even close to this quality.  You get what you pay for.  This is the only project that will yield results like this straight out of the package. You wont find another like it. It doesnt exist.

 

 

[glbarlow]

I don’t think your explanation to a disgruntled poster is necessary, the vast majority know all this.  That guy needs to take it up with his government, not the provider.

[dirkske]

2 hours ago, Chuck said:

....

in addition….for the cost…you will never be able to buy another project like this…

 

 

Thrust me, I'm not trying to debate quality nor value.  Just saying that in EU, depending on country, cost is roughly double to that in USA (due to taxes, customs and handling charges) and that is a pity. 

 

So maybe, just maybe, you could consider to select a fabrication partner in EU which pays you a royalty? 

 

I am lacking experience to tackle this project, but having a EU source would make it a no brainer to purchase the base package, plus some specifics for a future build. 

[Edwardkenway]

 

20 minutes ago, dirkske said:

 

Thrust me, I'm not trying to debate quality nor value.  Just saying that in EU, depending on country, cost is roughly double to that in USA (due to taxes, customs and handling charges) and that is a pity. 

 

So maybe, just maybe, you could consider to select a fabrication partner in EU which pays you a royalty? 

 

I am lacking experience to tackle this project, but having a EU source would make it a no brainer to purchase the base package, plus some specifics for a future build. 

If you can cut your own bulkheads and keel former, there is a vendor in Estonia (Hobbymill EU) who does a timber package for Winchelsea, then just purchase the laser cut chapters as and when you require them.

If the cost is not too much the customs and vat are pretty low on smaller less weighty parcels.

[BillMcCracken]

Chuck I have the plans and can not find the sheet with the planks for the lower counter as show in chapter 2 page 2 photo. am i missing something??? Thank you in advance for the help.

[Chuck]

There is no separate plan for that.  You have to take them off the large plan sheet.   Mill the strips and then plank the counter.   They are 1/4" wide and 3/64" thick.   No templates for those like any other model project.

 

Chuck

[dirkske]

2 hours ago, Edwardkenway said:

 

If you can cut your own bulkheads and keel former, there is a vendor in Estonia (Hobbymill EU) who does a timber package for Winchelsea, then just purchase the laser cut chapters as and when you require them.

If the cost is not too much the customs and vat are pretty low on smaller less weighty parcels.

 

I must have misunderstood, I thought the plans are partial, to, understandably, prevent piracy.

[Chuck]

Its an honor system especially now because we know everyone who has access to the plans in this group.   Even their address/phone info. You also agree to only use them for your own personal use when signing up.   So yes....you can cut your own.  Many have done just that on a scroll saw and I encourage it.  But there are no vendors other than myself who offer the laser cut parts.  I also frown on individuals going to a service to cut there own parts.   You must ask for separate permission to have parts laser cut elsewhere.   Plus not all laser templates are available....this is a semi scratch project although laser cut parts can be purchased only through me for 98% of the parts on the model.   

 

Chuck

[Edwardkenway]

Ahh yes, I didn't make it clear, Hobbymill EU (I believe he has Chuck's permission to do this) only does the wood strips in a package for Winchelsea, and that getting laser cut chapter parts from Syren (Chuck) may be the less expensive option. Sorry for any confusion. 

 

Edited December 29, 2021 by Edwardkenway

[BillMcCracken]

 I saw the sheet in your instructions and that is why I ask the question.

[BubbleHead]

I  do not beleve it's a good idea to have laser cut partes cut some where else, you neve know where the plans may end up.

 

[dirkske]

17 hours ago, BubbleHead said:

I  do not beleve it's a good idea to have laser cut partes cut some where else, you neve know where the plans may end up.

 

 

Agreed, if the cutter was selected by the builder.  But if Chuck was to select a reputed single one per economic region... I can't imagine that such a company would be less thrustworthy as the builders buying the plan. Given the amount of builds, those type of companies may not have an interest though.

 

Regardless, the lasered parts are no longer an issue, since the 2D parts are detailed on the plans (I initially thought they where not).

I have the tools to CNC route the 2D parts myself (although handcut may be quicker). So for me personally, those are not an issue.

 

For the 3D friezes etc I will have to sponser the gready government 😔

[Chuck]

Just a quick update....Today I completed the qdeck rail on the starboard side.   Uneventful and all parts were laser cut.

 

I will detail the step by step.  All Parts are laser cut in groups.  I thought it would be easiest to build if completed in sections.  The laser cut parts for each group are labelled as such...M-1 and O-1 and L are the parts for the first section....then working your way aft you will use the parts M-2 and O-2 for the second section etc.

 

The first section of rail is the most finicky but I will try and explain.

 

The first section of rail (parts L, M-1 and O-1)  

First I glued the various parts together in the photo below.  Just like the fcastle rail,  finish the timberheads on all four sides.  Then glue the fancy curved pieces to the notched rails so after painting them black you wont see the seams.  

Once painted black, the first lower section was dry fit on the drift in the waist.  Dont glue it on yet.

 

But you will also notice in that same photo,  the longer post and short post on the qdeck sheer.  These are actually painted ahead of time and glued in position.  I found it easier to have these glued in place so the the assemble behind it can be slipped into position.  This is the other assemble we made earlier.

 

To complete this first section of the fancy rail, dry fit this section on the cap rail.  Dont glue it on yet.  

See below.  Note how the forward end connects with the lower rail on the drift.   These should look like one continuous rail.  I added some wiggle room so you can sand the aft end of the lower rail so it will be flush.   That is why you shouldnt glue any of them in yet.  Mark it with a pencil and sand the aft end until its flush and looks like one rail.  This will be easier to understand as you guys are also doing it...I understand that it is difficult to write about but you will see what I mean once you get to this step.  

 

When you get everything to fit nicely,  you can glue it all in position permanently.

Then moving aft it gets easier.  Each additional group just contains two longer uprights, the rail, and two timberheads.  

The photo below shows on of these sections already completed.  This was section 2.  Section 3 of the rail is in progress.

 

In the same photo above you will see the two longer uprights painted and glued in position.  Again,  I found it easier to complete this way.  Behind it you can see the center section with the timberheads waiting to be inserted between the two long uprights.

 

One NOTE....the longer upright in each group (in this case section 3) are different lengths.  The uprights get shorter as the work their way aft.  Make sure you glue them into position in the correct order.  Shorter ones are aft.  

 

Then add the center assembly which has been already painted.  Also make sure its facing the correct direction.   It will only fit one way.  The timberheads should be vertical and as such have angled bottoms.  Make sure each upright and timberhead are vertical and because of the angled bottoms facing the correct way.

 

The photo below shows the center inserted...

 

Continue in this fashion for all five sections of the rail.  Then the top rail can be added.  It comes in two sections. On fancy piece on the forward end and a long length of rail to the transom.  I found it easier to attach both pieces together and sand them.  Then pre aint it black.   You will have to adjust the aft end to fit against the transom stern frame.

 

Also note the fixed block that sits on the cap rail against the transom.  Your rail in the fifth and final section sits on this block.  A small laser disc is glued into the slot of the fixed block.

 

This can be finicky but manageable if done a section at a time.  Its not a plastic kit so you will have tweak the angles and shift some timberheads to get them to look just right.  Remember the timberheads and uprights on this rail should be vertical.   Make sure the longer uprights are all the proper height which they should be before you put that top rail on.  You dont want a wavy top rail.  So DONT sand their lengths at all.  They are all precision laser cut to the proper lengths.  Test the top rail before gluing it on.

 

This is a task that requires that you go slow....there are a lot of things to watch out for which wouldnt make any sense at all to you if I wrote about them now.  But once you start building this rail please dont hesitate to ask me a lot of questions.

 

Any questions or comments??

 

 

[Rustyj]

That looks great Chuck. Your ability to design and manufacture such complex parts for us is amazing. Thanks!

[Jorge Diaz O]

Fantastic!!!

[scrubbyj427]

Good lord that looks awesome Chuck! Just amazing work!

[Kurt Bainum]

Hard to imagine that someday I will be attempting this!

[Thistle17]

After seeing Chuck's work me thinks I should take up knitting or some such past time!

Just kidding I guess I will muddle on.

Joe

[Trussben]

Beautiful Chuck.

[Chuck]

Thanks guys....next up will be the cap for the transom.  That will be a gratifying part to complete as I am tired of looking at those stubby stern frames sticking up at the stern.   Once that is completed I will wrap up chapter 10 with a few timberheads with sheaves along the inboard qdeck bulwarks.  And the iron-work and guns.

 

Chapter 11 was originally going to be for the headrails but I have decided I want complete the exterior with channels, deadeyes and fenders and swivel guns and such first.   That will really make the model look finished off.  I am looking forward to the next chapter a lot.

 

 

[Matt D]

That sounds great, Chuck.  I'm looking forward to the external details, too.  Do you have any more updates on the barge or pinnace?  Will that be its own chapter?

[Chuck]

That will be designed and made after the hull is completely finished.

[fnkershner]

Chuck - I truely hope to begin working on my own Winnie. but for now I am focusing on some of the mini models. My current project is the Stove. Let me ask a question - How do you remove the round laser cut vents from the wooden sprue? I have broken 2 of them trying to push them out.

[Chuck]

For what?  The lids on the top of the stove.  I am not sure what you mean by vents.  There are no vents.  They are just held in place by little tabs.  To be cut with a sharp blade….not just punched out.  Unless the laser didnt cut all the way through.  Take a picture.  Post it.
 

if you need a new sheet i can send one no problem but I am not very sure which sheet or part you are referring.  I etched the outline on the top of the stove for the lids but thats just for placement purposes.  You shouldnt remove those …and on a sep sheet there are small matching circles for the lids that go in those spots.  Its all spelled out step by step in the pdf.

[fnkershner]

I now have 4 that are broken. so yes I am going to need another set. See below 

I do cut the tab but they are very fragile and tend to split.

[Chuck]

If you have some brass tubing or even some styrene tubing that would work better for you.  Those aren't that fragile at all.  I have no idea how you are breaking them like that.   But a replacement will be the same.  
 

I recommend you use any kind of

tubing you can find close to  that diameter instead.
 

 

[fnkershner]

ok, I will go for that.

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Chuck, speaking of next chapter I am curious if those  plates will have supporting knees. I see original prototype and plan dont have those , just for curiosity. i quite like the effect and detail but it is nice without them as well. probably for thoae who plan rigging winnie those moght be needed for extra support. V.