Syren Ship Model Company News, Updates and Info.....(part 2)

[Nirvana]

6 hours ago, Chuck said:

Lantern test in 3 sizes....

 

3/16" scale and 1/4" scale and one size in between.

 

19mm, 23mm and 27 mm tall without any crank. Top to bottom.  That isnt a really big dime so you can imagine how thin those individual window frames are on the sides of the lanterns.   No clear glass insert yet.  But that test is coming. 

 

 

 

Any possibility of flickering led lights inside?

 

[Chuck]

Not from me but yes you can easily add that.  There is plenty of room and a hole through the bottom for wiring.  You just have to use a hollow tube for the crank.

 

chuck

[Chuck]

Here is a look at my new 3d printed toggles used on a fighting top to secure the blocks under it.  This photo shows I believe 3 sizes of toggles being used and I think they look great.  
 

A big thanks to Greg Herbert who is using them on a commission model and sent me his progress photo.  
 

 

[Venti]

On 5/19/2025 at 6:29 PM, Chuck said:

ugh.  Repeat.

Hey! A little late but thought I could suggest a phone app that counts objects in a picture. I've seen quite a few different ones like CountThings or CountThis. I haven't looked into them at all but could be a good alternative to manually counting. 

[Gregory]

9 minutes ago, Venti said:

Hey! A little late but thought I could suggest a phone app that counts objects in a picture. I've seen quite a few different ones like CountThings or CountThis. I haven't looked into them at all but could be a good alternative to manually counting. 

How does it deal with two or more objects touching each other?  If you have to separate them, you might as well go ahead and count them.😁

[Venti]

12 minutes ago, Gregory said:

23 minutes ago, Venti said:

 

How does it deal with two or more objects touching each other?

 

It's going to depend on how good the "template" is for the thing being counted. I just downloaded CountThis and tried it a bit. They have a bunch of prebuilt templates for random things. I tried the "similar items outstanding from background" one with the picture Chuck posted of the thimbles and it counted them all plus an extra invisible one 🤣 but that template is "experimental". I then got some ibuprofen out and used the pill counter template and it did perfect. I even had some on the sides to try to trick it. Picture result below. The experiment template didn't do very well and clumped them together. That said, this app was the first I saw and tried. It doesn't seem like it will let you create your own template but I'm sure theres a more open source one out there somewhere.

 

[Chuck]

I almost forgot.  I have one more Cheerful starter package still on my site for immediate purchase should anyone want it sooner than later.

 

Chuck 

[Chuck]

The Lanterns are in production over the next few days.

 

I thought it would take a while to write the instructions but this was the quickest lantern I ever built.

 

Its a three part lantern. 

 

You get the bottom/window part 1

The top "Lid" part 2

and the Glass window insert part 3.

 

The photo below shows one finished lantern with frosted glass insert.  You can also see a second lantern under construction.  This has a clear glass insert.  Note the two inserts.  One is frosted which is how they all appear when 3d printed.  Any of you who have ever tried to 3D print clear resin knows that at best you get this frosted appearance after washing and curing.

 

1.But if you prefer a clearer glass insert that is easy enough.  Behind the lanterns you can see some water-based Polycrylic.  You should use gloss or high gloss but all I had was ultra flat and it still worked very well.  Just use a very clean brush to coat the glass insert inside and out.  I used a helping hands to secure the glass insert and just brush the stuff un.  A THIN COAT is all you need.  Dont touch it...dont paint a second coat etc.  Let it dry fully before touching it.  It works like magic and instantly make your piece clear.  Now if I used gloss it would have been like clear glass.  But honestly,  the frosted original looks very good as is also.  You can see an original frosted and a varnished insert in the photo.   

 

2. Insert the glass into the lantern body.  It can only fit one way...no glue needed.  Just do a press fit.  Make sure it is seated all the way in there.   It is printed to be a snug fit.  After you insert the glass part you can flip the lantern upside down and apply gentle pressure if you want to really seat it in there.  If the glass still protrudes higher than the lantern ....which it might...just use a sanding stick that is flat to sand it down level and flush with the lantern top.  In fact you will absolutely have to do this anyway to get a flat surface in the next step.

 

3. Take a flat sanding stick or emory board and sand the top of the lantern flat to accept the top..."lid" or roof.  There will be some little sprue marks and unevenness because of the 3D printing supports.  Sand it all down flat.  The hardest part is getting all the dust out and keeping the interior clean.  Use one of those "air in a can"  sprayers.   Then repeat and sand the bottom of the lid flat for the reason.  You want a nice tight fit between the two when you glue them together.

 

4. Glue the roof lid onto the lantern.  Dont use a lot of glue.  You dont want it squishing out or making the glass dirty.  Yes I did use the smallest drops of medium CA.  NOW.....this is important,  remember to glue the top on facing the right direction.  You can see how the lantern is angled so nicely and the top should be easy enough to figure out which way it should go.  BUT....it isnt.  Take it from me.   And its a devil to separate so do a dry run first otherwise you may be buying a new lantern mini kit.

 

Thats it.....you can make and fashion the crank out of heavy square or round wire or rod.  Just follow your plans as they may all be a little different.  Use  a hollow tube if you want to wire up an led flickering thinga ma bob.

 

5.  It is optional but you can paint the inside of your lantern if you wish.  A dark gray or even red based on contemporary examples.  The exterior can be left natural and as is, or you can paint portions of that as well.  Its up to you.

 

Darker Swiss pear maybe?? But a tad lighter than my rigging blocks.  I didnt want to go too dark.  With a frosted insert.

 

 

 

 

[Rustyj]

Sweet!

[TJM]

These are amazing! Absolutely fantastic design.

[Chuck]

Thank You....all 3 Stern Lantern sizes are now in stock.  Boxwood color.

[thibaultron]

Chuck. I was thinking about your counting of the collars problem. Maybe leave the proper number, still on the base sheet, and supports, and let the modeler separate them?

[Nirvana]

24 minutes ago, thibaultron said:

Chuck. I was thinking about your counting of the collars problem. Maybe leave the proper number, still on the base sheet, and supports, and let the modeler separate them?

Could be a way to make it slightly harder for the "pirates" in the model market. Maybe Chuck has the answer for us.

[Chuck]

I have to do some post processing to all my 3d printed stuff so they are always removed from the supports.  Its more work for me but better for you guys.  
 

I dont see many that offer 3d printed parts with such a routine.  Most just print and package.  
 

But all of my parts are lightly sanded if possible to remove the support divots and then they are sprayed and misted with a conservators UV protective coating.  In other cases they finish is optimizes to make them look less like plastic as well. The color and matte or satin finish.
 

Now yes…it could be expected that the end user/builder should do all this but most dont want to or dont know how.  So its an extra service I provide that hopefully makes my parts stand out from all of the many others.  Most just sell “straight from the vat” gray 3d prints you have to paint and finish yourself.  Folks dont know I do all this pre printing processing and post printing processing but based on the volumes being sold I think you guys appreciate it.
 

As you can see I couldnt possibly feel good not doing all this knowing I could finish all my parts so you can use them straight out of the bag.  But it would be a whole

lot quicker and easier if I didnt do all this. In fact I have nearly sold out of some thimble sizes already and will be printing more over the coming week.

 

No painting or finishing required.  Even these small black thimbles.  And certainly my blocks.  Counting and packaging just requires some patience.  In the big scheme of things a small amount of time considering all that goes into making this stuff.

 

No plastic gray looking blocks and fittings from Syren.  

 

[Blue Ensign]

Wonderful stuff you are now producing Chuck, and I think us modellers appreciate the extra mile you go. 

It has been a great experience using your resin blocks and deadeyes, and the other little detailed fittings.

 

Did you decide whether to  produce the Belay pins at 1:64 scale?

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

Edited Tuesday at 11:23 AM by Blue Ensign

[Chuck]

24 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

Did you decide whether to  produce the Belay pins at 1:64 scale?

Thanks...So far all tests have failed.  At least they failed to meet my standards.   I had to put that aside so I can make the other stuff for now.  But I havent given up yet.

 

Chuck

[Chuck]

First 3D print test and assembly of two French style lanterns after Boudriot.  There is no glazing insert in these....yet.  Thats a bit more complex than the other Royal Navy shaped insert.