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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    As with everything you do Gaetan, you strive for the highest standard you can achieve; your dedication certainly shows in the quality of your models (and photography) - impressive. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Very nice work Greg, you are showing some excellent detail (and talent) with this model. Those nets must have severely restricted ship's speed when deployed? cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    You've made some significant progress G.L.; it is all looking very good. You must be close to finishing now? cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Some good progress made there Steven. I will be quite interested in how yo age these 'filler repairs', have you any ideas on that yet? cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    To echo Druxey - Magnificent! That rigging is a masterpiece of execution. I very much look forward to your next volume of the series. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Glacial or not, you have still achieved some significant progress and it is looking very good. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    A very nicely faired hull Keith; this will certainly give you the nice solid base for the planking you were after. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Nice design Dave; that will be a very nice case - what is the wood BTW (or did I miss that)? cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Thanks Patrick - I am sure I reserved a special place of punishment with my 'oaths' when doing these small pieces cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Simply beautiful! ..... and functional. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Nice to see the update UV; some good progress made there. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Jeffery, a little later than what you need for your period build, and Gregory for info, the only formula/rule-of-thumb I have found is for clippers (I knew I had seen something somewhere in my reading ) . E. Armatage McCann in his series of articles published in the Model Ship Builder magazine (originally in the The Ship Modeller magazine), titled "Rigging of Clipper Ships" - part 3, page 10 provides: "The steeve was 4 to 5-inches to the foot" using the length the bowsprit extending from the bed to the cap. Note this was for clipper ships of the 1850s. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Those knightheads look very crisp. Nice work. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Thanks for the feedback and confirming my thoughts Rob; much appreciated. Now I just have to settle on the final positions but I will leave that until I am well into the rigging plan. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Hi Rob, this is being built at 1:72. I just noted an error in the build title, thanks cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Now that's the way to 'get back into it' - double whammy it great to hear you sounding enthusiastic about it too Mark. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    I didn't think these old salts were that well dress-coordinated Stunning detail Michael, I love the brass lamp. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    A silver lining can be found in everything (well almost), glad you can get some 'bonus' detail from the rebuild. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    She's looking great Ben, you must be pleased to see her taking on some of her 'finish' now. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Very clean work Vossie; looks very crisp. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    I am glad you asked as I seem to have gotten myself confused (reading far too many books at the moment while sorting the spars for my build). I am building a Gun Despatch Vessel steam-screw sloop which had an Aberdeen style bow and the steeve , when measured from the horizontal of the WL, was 15 degrees. It was Goodwin "The Construction and Fitting of the English Man-of-War" page 174 that provided the guidance I wrongly attributed to Underhill (memo to self - check before posting next time ) - basically, 25-30 degrees for ship-rigged vessels - smaller classes closer to horizontal. I dare not state more as this book is still in copyright and, sorry, I will need to check with moderators how much can be cited re copyright. I used underhill to get averages of the steerve angles, and angles of the caps for the 1850s, as he has many accurate drawings of clipper ships of many designs; hence my subliminal association. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    My sincere condolences also Eric. regards Pat
  23. BANYAN
    I think the owner will be very pleased with the product cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    No problem Marco, hope the info helps. WRT kinks, sometimes they are caused by one of the stock/source threads not being at the same tension - one of the most important things before starting to twist/turn is to ensure that all stock threads are equally tensioned. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Thanks Eberhard, that clears up my separate query to you cheers Pat

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