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HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1/4" scale


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I've been working on chapter four, port side. The filler piece for the hawse hole, bulwark planking, fixed blocks, spirketting and deck clamps are completed. It was my goal to get the overall width at the waste no wider than 9/32" (13.5").

 

The first task was to finish the inner bulkhead fairing. I opted to sand the bulkheads, gun ports, etc. down to 1/8" all the way to the false deck. Another option would have been to taper everything gradually to 1/8". Chuck would know more about this, I'm sure. Anyway, it worked out okay in the end. After completing the first layer spirketting and bulwark planking the width at the waste was now 1/4" (12") overall.

 

Next, I moved on to the second layer of spirketting strakes that run along the false deck. Before adding the second strake that runs underneath the gun ports I softened the top edge. Next I added the two deck clamps. Once installed, the bottom edge was sanded flush with the bulwark planking while leaving the top edge at full width. The upper spirketting that runs along the waste was then added. Here I used a slightly thinner .028" strip in order to insure that the finished width at the waste would be no wider than 9/32" (13.5"). Lastly, I added a second layer strake above this to each clamp. This strake was tapered from a single strip that filled the area of the clamps to the lower notches.

 

I still have some port painting and cleaning up of the bowsprit hole to do. Taking advice from Bob (Rafine), I will add all of the bulwark paneling after the bulwarks are painted red.

 

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Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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There is something I forgot to mention with regard to fairing the inner hull. If you want the bulkhead paneling to sit flush with the stern frames inner edge, then leave room for that. I left about 5/64". The panel height will not go above the height of the window opening.

 

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Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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On 6/1/2020 at 10:16 AM, Stuntflyer said:

Thank you all! No secret regarding the "perfect spirals". Those are laser etched by the master himself, Chuck.

 

Mike

Holy moly, this work is so well done, and Chuck's kit is frigggggging amazing.  

 

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  • 1 month later...

Seems like forever since my last post. After completing the starboard side bulwark planking and spirketting I painted everything red.

 

To prep for the paint work each gun port was sealed on both sides with thin pieces of soft foam cut from weather sealing, typically bundled with window air conditioners. I figured that if I did both sides of each port that it would remove any chance of paint over spray messing things up. Cutting the foam pieces goes quickly with a #26 X-ACTO blade. The most time consuming part was the taping of deck clamps, etc. Once done, the painting goes quickly. I mixed W&N Crimson and Burnt Umber in a ratio of 10 to 1 respectively. I applied 10 thinned brushed coats followed by 7 or 8 spray coats.

 

There was no way of knowing how it would all turn out until all the foam and tape was finally removed. Luckily everything was clean with no touch up needed.

 

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Mike

 

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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  • 2 weeks later...

Happy Thanksgiving! 🦃

 

I've completed work on the starboard side margin planks which are made up of four sections joined by scarf joints. I decided to join all four sections together first, rather than adding them to the ship individually. The idea was to get really tight joints while still being able to maintain the proper shape along the bulwarks. That would mean using a light box or a window in daylight to check the joint fit. 

 

All of the sections were cut wider than the provided template to allow for any custom shaping that might be needed. I started with the first section at the bow by shaping the outer edge and making the scarf joint. Once completed, I shaped the next section without making the forward scarf joint. Both sections were placed along the hull and overlapped where the joint was located. I marked the joint shape with a sharp pencil and once satisfied with the fit, joined the two sections together. The same steps were carried out for the next two sections until all four sections were joined together. I used a compass to scribe the inner edge width of the margin plank and drum sanded it to complete the new shape. Lastly, I final sanded the inner edge to a smooth shape and a 90° edge. Everything went smoothly. I just needed to be careful when handling the joined lengths which is over 30". The easiest part was gluing the completed work to the hull. To speed up glue application  I used a glue syringe to apply a small bead of PVA glue over its entire length.

 

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Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Nicely done Mike, and beautiful joinery.  I'm sure if I had tried to work on a 30" piece like that off the ship I would have broken it about a dozen times.. lol.. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Assuming that the bulwarks were painted a pure red, not an earth red, I believe there was only one choice in the eighteenth century--vermilion, a toxic pigment of mercuric sulfide ground from the mineral cinnabar. This would have been an exceptionally expensive option and I'm certainly not qualified to say if this was the actual practice. But everyone seems to be doing it, so I thought it would be good to show what vermilion looks like. It varies a lot, but is usually to the warm end of the spectrum, but can also be cool. It's a very opaque pigment. I think it has the highest refractive index of any known pigment, so it was opaque as paint could be. But if you need opacity you can always use more coats. The closest modern equivalent is cadmium red light or medium.

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In the 18th century, I thought they also had Red Ochre or a red oxide paint.  I’m sure it was much cheaper than true vermillion which I doubt they would use due to the expense. The naval service could be known to be frugal when it came to paint.  Of course, there was a reddish brown paint called Spanish Brown that was red clay in linseed oil was also used on ships found in 18th century contracts. But mostly in the merchant service. 

 

 

 

Able bodied seaman, subject to the requirements of the service.

"I may very well sink, but I'm damned if I'll Strike!" JPJ

 

My Pacific Northwest Discovery Series:

On the slipways in the lumberyard

Union, 1792 - 1:48 scale - POF Scratch build

18th Century Longboat - circa 1790 as used in the PNW fur trade - FINISHED

 

Future Builds (Wish List)

Columbia Redidiva, 1787

HM Armed Tender Chatham, 1788

HMS Discovery, 1789 Captain Vancouver

Santiago, 1775 - Spanish Frigate of Explorer Bruno de Hezeta

Lady Washington, 1787 - Original Sloop Rig

 

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Good Morning Gentlemen;

 

Red lead paint was widely available from an early period: Mary Harrison's contract for painting ships, made with the officers of Portsmouth Yard in 1676, specifically states that she undertakes to paint the inside of the ports with one coat of red lead. 

 

Prussian blue was accidentally discovered (whilst attempting to make a red pigment!) around 1706. This was the first stable, chemically produced pigment, and became widely available. 

 

All the best,

 

Mark P

Previously built models (long ago, aged 18-25ish) POB construction. 32 gun frigate, scratch-built sailing model, Underhill plans.

2 masted topsail schooner, Underhill plans.

 

Started at around that time, but unfinished: 74 gun ship 'Bellona' NMM plans. POB 

 

On the drawing board: POF model of Royal Caroline 1749, part-planked with interior details. My own plans, based on Admiralty draughts and archival research.

 

Always on the go: Research into Royal Navy sailing warship design, construction and use, from Tudor times to 1790. 

 

Member of NRG, SNR, NRS, SMS

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  • 3 weeks later...

Happy New Year everyone😁

 

I've started on the deck planking, completing the first belt and the lining off the remaining two belts.

 

The planking remains unsanded and looking dirty and discolored at the moment. The only cleanup was to scrape most of the PVA off the joints after gluing. The final cleanup will come later as I move onto the second belt. There will be more room to sand without the risk of knocking down the outside plank edges. All of the deck fittings are removable as well which will make things a whole lot easier.

 

I extended the line onto the margin plank after lining off and I also marked where the butt joints are located.

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I glued some short alignment strips to the deck and up against the fixtures to keep them centered on the deck

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For the mast partner bolts I used some 20lb black monofilament drilled with a #76 bit. No gluing necessary.

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I almost got into deep trouble when I tried gluing the cabin floor with PVA. It started to warp quickly and being boxwood made it hard to bend back. Luckily I was able to get it into position and down tight to the false deck, albeit with a few sore fingers. Stay with medium CA on this one. Trust me!

 

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Mike

 

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Very nice work Mike!

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

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Wonderful work! What a pleasure to find your magnificent Winchelsea again!

Jean-Paul

 

'You are not carving a bear with a chain saw here folks',

Chuck Passaro, ´Queen Anne Style Barge´ manual of instructions

 

Current builds :

 

Finished build :

 

Next on list :

  • HMS Winchelsea 1764 - Syren Ship Model - 1:48
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Hello Mike:

Looking very good!

The floor warped because the water from the glue was absolved quickly in the underside.  To prevent this brush some water on the topside.  If you add water on the top side after the PVA, it will actually warp back to the right form.

Hope this help,

G   

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That's a very good idea, though there is one thing that I should mention. The laser char on the checkerboard floor can easily smudge or lighten if not handled properly. I think that it should remain untouched. So, I would use your idea under other circumstances, but would be afraid to use it here.

 

Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Thank you all for the kind words and for all the "Likes".

 

3 hours ago, Hubac's Historian said:

nerve-wracking

 

Yes, for sure. Mostly because I was worried about having to ask Chuck to make another one for me. 😟

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Holy cow, this is absolutely incredible work!  Your planking and other wood work is pure perfection, as if computer drawn.  Amazing!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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Wow!  What a beautiful model you have.  Recently I read through your Winnie build log from start to finish, and then read through it again.  It's easy to see why you are getting so many accolades for your workmanship.  It's precise in ways you don't see in many other models.  Your planking and joinery is, no doubt, the envy of your fellow model builders.  We really shouldn't be surprised that your Winnie is turning out so well because the other models you've worked on exhibit those same qualities. 

Tom

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Thank you, Tom! I happy to hear that your health has improved and you are ready to build the Winchelsea.

 

Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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