HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1/4" scale

[Stuntflyer]

I've been working on chapter four, port side. The filler piece for the hawse hole, bulwark planking, fixed blocks, spirketting and deck clamps are completed. It was my goal to get the overall width at the waste no wider than 9/32" (13.5").

 

The first task was to finish the inner bulkhead fairing. I opted to sand the bulkheads, gun ports, etc. down to 1/8" all the way to the false deck. Another option would have been to taper everything gradually to 1/8". Chuck would know more about this, I'm sure. Anyway, it worked out okay in the end. After completing the first layer spirketting and bulwark planking the width at the waste was now 1/4" (12") overall.

 

Next, I moved on to the second layer of spirketting strakes that run along the false deck. Before adding the second strake that runs underneath the gun ports I softened the top edge. Next I added the two deck clamps. Once installed, the bottom edge was sanded flush with the bulwark planking while leaving the top edge at full width. The upper spirketting that runs along the waste was then added. Here I used a slightly thinner .028" strip in order to insure that the finished width at the waste would be no wider than 9/32" (13.5"). Lastly, I added a second layer strake above this to each clamp. This strake was tapered from a single strip that filled the area of the clamps to the lower notches.

 

I still have some port painting and cleaning up of the bowsprit hole to do. Taking advice from Bob (Rafine), I will add all of the bulwark paneling after the bulwarks are painted red.

 

 

 

 

Mike

[Gahm]

Your model is a wonderful example for outstanding craftsmanship and precision work.

 

Thomas

[Stuntflyer]

Thank you Thomas for the kind words. Always appreciated!

 

Mike

[Stuntflyer]

There is something I forgot to mention with regard to fairing the inner hull. If you want the bulkhead paneling to sit flush with the stern frames inner edge, then leave room for that. I left about 5/64". The panel height will not go above the height of the window opening.

 

 

Mike

[HardeeHarHar]

On 6/1/2020 at 10:16 AM, Stuntflyer said:

Thank you all! No secret regarding the "perfect spirals". Those are laser etched by the master himself, Chuck.

 

Mike

Holy moly, this work is so well done, and Chuck's kit is frigggggging amazing.  

 

[Stuntflyer]

Seems like forever since my last post. After completing the starboard side bulwark planking and spirketting I painted everything red.

 

To prep for the paint work each gun port was sealed on both sides with thin pieces of soft foam cut from weather sealing, typically bundled with window air conditioners. I figured that if I did both sides of each port that it would remove any chance of paint over spray messing things up. Cutting the foam pieces goes quickly with a #26 X-ACTO blade. The most time consuming part was the taping of deck clamps, etc. Once done, the painting goes quickly. I mixed W&N Crimson and Burnt Umber in a ratio of 10 to 1 respectively. I applied 10 thinned brushed coats followed by 7 or 8 spray coats.

 

There was no way of knowing how it would all turn out until all the foam and tape was finally removed. Luckily everything was clean with no touch up needed.

 

 

 

Mike

 

Edited November 13, 2020 by Stuntflyer

[Greg M]

That looks fantastic.  The first photo almost looks like a drawing. 

[scrubbyj427]

That looks very good, I like the darker red color.

JJ

[Stuntflyer]

Happy Thanksgiving! 🦃

 

I've completed work on the starboard side margin planks which are made up of four sections joined by scarf joints. I decided to join all four sections together first, rather than adding them to the ship individually. The idea was to get really tight joints while still being able to maintain the proper shape along the bulwarks. That would mean using a light box or a window in daylight to check the joint fit. 

 

All of the sections were cut wider than the provided template to allow for any custom shaping that might be needed. I started with the first section at the bow by shaping the outer edge and making the scarf joint. Once completed, I shaped the next section without making the forward scarf joint. Both sections were placed along the hull and overlapped where the joint was located. I marked the joint shape with a sharp pencil and once satisfied with the fit, joined the two sections together. The same steps were carried out for the next two sections until all four sections were joined together. I used a compass to scribe the inner edge width of the margin plank and drum sanded it to complete the new shape. Lastly, I final sanded the inner edge to a smooth shape and a 90° edge. Everything went smoothly. I just needed to be careful when handling the joined lengths which is over 30". The easiest part was gluing the completed work to the hull. To speed up glue application  I used a glue syringe to apply a small bead of PVA glue over its entire length.

 

 

 

 

 

Mike

[GuntherMT]

Nicely done Mike, and beautiful joinery.  I'm sure if I had tried to work on a 30" piece like that off the ship I would have broken it about a dozen times.. lol.. 

[Ron Burns]

Another flawless Winchelsea. Absolutely stunning workmanship! 

[jfhealey]

A lightbox to check the fit of your joints. Crikey! That's levels of precision I've never thought about let alone attempted to achieve. Superb work.

Fred

[Greg M]

Amazing joinery.  Never ceases to amaze me how simple you make these very difficult pieces look.

[Hubac's Historian]

Tremendous precision, Mike!

[Carlos Reira]

Assuming that the bulwarks were painted a pure red, not an earth red, I believe there was only one choice in the eighteenth century--vermilion, a toxic pigment of mercuric sulfide ground from the mineral cinnabar. This would have been an exceptionally expensive option and I'm certainly not qualified to say if this was the actual practice. But everyone seems to be doing it, so I thought it would be good to show what vermilion looks like. It varies a lot, but is usually to the warm end of the spectrum, but can also be cool. It's a very opaque pigment. I think it has the highest refractive index of any known pigment, so it was opaque as paint could be. But if you need opacity you can always use more coats. The closest modern equivalent is cadmium red light or medium.

[Dowmer]

In the 18th century, I thought they also had Red Ochre or a red oxide paint.  I’m sure it was much cheaper than true vermillion which I doubt they would use due to the expense. The naval service could be known to be frugal when it came to paint.  Of course, there was a reddish brown paint called Spanish Brown that was red clay in linseed oil was also used on ships found in 18th century contracts. But mostly in the merchant service. 

[Mark P]

Good Morning Gentlemen;

 

Red lead paint was widely available from an early period: Mary Harrison's contract for painting ships, made with the officers of Portsmouth Yard in 1676, specifically states that she undertakes to paint the inside of the ports with one coat of red lead. 

 

Prussian blue was accidentally discovered (whilst attempting to make a red pigment!) around 1706. This was the first stable, chemically produced pigment, and became widely available. 

 

All the best,

 

Mark P

[Stuntflyer]

Happy New Year everyone😁

 

I've started on the deck planking, completing the first belt and the lining off the remaining two belts.

 

The planking remains unsanded and looking dirty and discolored at the moment. The only cleanup was to scrape most of the PVA off the joints after gluing. The final cleanup will come later as I move onto the second belt. There will be more room to sand without the risk of knocking down the outside plank edges. All of the deck fittings are removable as well which will make things a whole lot easier.

 

I extended the line onto the margin plank after lining off and I also marked where the butt joints are located.

 

I glued some short alignment strips to the deck and up against the fixtures to keep them centered on the deck

 

For the mast partner bolts I used some 20lb black monofilament drilled with a #76 bit. No gluing necessary.

 

I almost got into deep trouble when I tried gluing the cabin floor with PVA. It started to warp quickly and being boxwood made it hard to bend back. Luckily I was able to get it into position and down tight to the false deck, albeit with a few sore fingers. Stay with medium CA on this one. Trust me!

 

 

Mike

 

Edited January 6, 2021 by Stuntflyer

[Rustyj]

Very nice work Mike!

[dvm27]

Very few people do the prep you do. Mike. That's why your work is so superlative!

[Gahm]

Wonderful start into the new year. Your work is fantastic!

 

Thomas

[JpR62]

Wonderful work! What a pleasure to find your magnificent Winchelsea again!

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Hello Mike:

Looking very good!

The floor warped because the water from the glue was absolved quickly in the underside.  To prevent this brush some water on the topside.  If you add water on the top side after the PVA, it will actually warp back to the right form.

Hope this help,

G   

[Stuntflyer]

That's a very good idea, though there is one thing that I should mention. The laser char on the checkerboard floor can easily smudge or lighten if not handled properly. I think that it should remain untouched. So, I would use your idea under other circumstances, but would be afraid to use it here.

 

Mike

Edited January 6, 2021 by Stuntflyer

[scrubbyj427]

That looks very nice! What 

excellent motivation!

[Hubac's Historian]

That parquet floor rescue must have been nerve-wracking!  I can feel it in my guts just imagining it.  This is beautiful progress, Mike.

[Stuntflyer]

Thank you all for the kind words and for all the "Likes".

 

3 hours ago, Hubac's Historian said:

nerve-wracking

 

Yes, for sure. Mostly because I was worried about having to ask Chuck to make another one for me. 😟

[Landlubber Mike]

Holy cow, this is absolutely incredible work!  Your planking and other wood work is pure perfection, as if computer drawn.  Amazing!

[wyz]

Wow!  What a beautiful model you have.  Recently I read through your Winnie build log from start to finish, and then read through it again.  It's easy to see why you are getting so many accolades for your workmanship.  It's precise in ways you don't see in many other models.  Your planking and joinery is, no doubt, the envy of your fellow model builders.  We really shouldn't be surprised that your Winnie is turning out so well because the other models you've worked on exhibit those same qualities. 

Tom

[Stuntflyer]

Thank you, Tom! I happy to hear that your health has improved and you are ready to build the Winchelsea.

 

Mike