HMS Sphinx 1775 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[VTHokiEE]

Nicely done B.E.

 

I will say that one of my short term goals is to acquire as many small clamps as I see in your build log - you simply can never have enough.

[Moonbug]

Other than your nice build work - I've always also enjoyed your innovation when it comes to make-shift tools.  Always a great source of ideas B.E. 

[glbarlow]

On 10/28/2021 at 12:44 PM, Gregory said:

I use a brass collet in a rotary tool.

Seems like twisting it off entirely is a good possibility. Can you define how you determine the size and more  what you mean by brass collet?

 

[glbarlow]

On 10/27/2021 at 8:45 PM, mtaylor said:

cutting the axle "short"

The caution is having enough axel for the truck to remain attached, I think you may wind up with a bigger problem than a slightly square axel. 

[Gregory]

5 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

 what you mean by brass collet?

These come from Amazon.

 

5 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Seems like twisting it off entirely is a good possibility.

 Happened more than once when I was  refining the process..

 

I used a thin grinding disk to rough up the inside edges.  I use high RPM and move the piece slowly..

 

 

 

 

I realize there is more at risk when using limited kit parts, but I make my own carriages, so it's no big deal to make a new one if I break one. 

[Blue Ensign]

I don’t think I could trust myself with any sort of power option to round what are quite delicate and small scale pieces.

In relation specifically to Sphinx only the slightest pass of a sanding stick is required on the square edges of the axle to allow the truck to fit.

The area involved is only 2mm x1mm.

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It is difficult to get a perfect fit as a square peg is being inserted into a round hole.

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To counter this the axles would need to be a fraction larger to allow rounding for a full fit.

The above macro shots show the problem, but at scale size it is a minor issue,  just use the lightest touch to get them to fit.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Extra Timber supplies.

In preparation for hull planking I ordered a full range of Pearwood strip from Hobbymill EU, based in Estonia, and a recent sponsor of MSW.

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Each size of timber comes in packs of 10, sufficient for most spiling requirements, and the range of plank widths will allow me more flexibility.

The whole process of ordering was a pleasure, Vahur is very helpful, kept me fully informed by email, and provided full tracking details.

 I received the timber 15 days after order.

The timber was well packed and presented in separate plastic sleeves for each size.

It is of excellent quality and pale in colour as ordered.

 

I did a random check of dimensions and the tolerences seemed to be in the range of +0.1/-0.1 in widths.

Extra stips were included in each packet to allow for any discrepancies. In the 0.8mm x 1mm strips an extra 6 pieces were included with the 10 ordered.

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The lower strips are the kit provided strip, and the upper ones the Hobbymill.

The kit strips are paler in colour, but the hobbymill versions a closer match to the planking patterns.

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The colour tone across the range  is even. The longer paler strips in the photo are the kit provided strip.

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These are the 10mm and 0.9mm  strips.

 

In addition to the strip wood I ordered some square/rectangular stock.

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This will be used for constructional elements that may arise.

 

Finally, Vahur included some samples of other available timbers, Yellow cedar, Hornbeam, Dark Pearwood, Boxwood,  and Holly.

All looking to be of excellent quality and cleanly cut.

 

I am happy that we have at last got a European supplier of quality timbers, and on the strength of my first order I am happy to recommend.

 

B.E.

 

 

[ccoyle]

That is lovely-looking wood. One of the reasons I lost interest in my HMS Fly build, now languishing on a shelf in an incomplete state, is that after seeing many similar kits done in pear or other light wood, I decided I didn't much care for the look of the dark walnut that came in the kit. Oh, well.

[Blue Ensign]

I agree with you Chris, I don't like the Walnut look on models; I replaced all of the planking timber on my Pegasus build with Boxwood, and I toyed with  doing that on Sphinx, but I think the Pear is nice enough. The deck will be Boxwood tho'.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Thirty-three

 

Completing Keel, Knee of the Head, and sternposts

As is common with Vanguard kits, cover pieces of Pearwood or outer patterns as they are described are used to provide a pristine finish to these parts which are of themselves Pearwood.

 

 This is a great improvement on having mdf or ply versions which are difficult to match to the finishing timbers.

I well remember the time I spent in getting the mdf Prow on Pegasus to match the Boxwood planking.

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The ‘Prow’ piece is also nicely engraved with the various sections that would otherwise make up the knee of the Head.

Before I fitted these pieces I fined down the first layer planking a little in places to provide  a slightly better rabbet for the second planking running into the bow.

It really helps to have a rabbet to get a nice clean and tight look to the bow timbers, and also helps with the fitting.

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The most prominent feature is the Prow piece and it fitted spot on, I was careful not to get any glue stains on the surface.

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Following on from the Prow the keel and sternpost pieces slot into place without issue.

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Finally there is the lower counter upper pattern to fit followed by two further strakes of pre spiled planking.

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I used ca gel for these two planks, but I did keep a pot of acetone on hand in case of marks.

I really dislike ca and will probably only use it to secure the first few inches of the planks at the bow.

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One slightly worrying thing, out of curiosity I tried fitting the  rudder in place. It looks like it won’t fit without enlarging the rudder port in the lower counter.

Probably down to something I’ve done, but it’s not a big issue to adjust.

 

With these fitted, it’s onto the wonderful world of hull planking and all it entails.

 

B.E.

04/11/21

[glbarlow]

 Nice neat work, and everything does fit…almost. I’m sure enlarging rudder port done easily enough with your skills.

[dunnock]

Thanks for the post on the Estonian wood suppler. I've been buying boxwod strip and square section from Original Marquetry but it's good to hear of a European source with a wider selection of wood types.

David

[Blue Ensign]

Post Thirty-four

 

Planking (Part two)- The real thing.

From this point onwards it’s back to traditional planking using 0.8mm  x 4mm Pearwood strip.

In addition to the provided planking strip I purchased various  widths of 0.8mm planking strip to assist with  spiling and varying width strakes as they run from  bow to stern.

Before I start, the hull has to be marked with the bulkheads and has to be lined off for the planking.

On my hull there are 25 strakes of 4mm widths mid ships, with negligible variation on the two bulkheads forward of this.

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I decided to line off the hull into three  bands; two of 8 strakes and the lowest one of nine strakes including the Garboard.

I am using narrow 3mm Tamiya tape to separate the sections.

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I find this aspect quite difficult as it’s down to eye to adjudge  the run of the line, and decide  when it’s as good as it gets.

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The width of the bands at the bow are the same for bands one and two altho’ the  photos appear to show Band two at the bow to be narrower.

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At the stern there is the greatest variation in band widths.

Band one matches the mid ships,(33mm) Band two is narrower,(25mm) and band three down to the keel  is the widest (43mm).

 

So I stare at the model with Chuck’s words from his tutorial in my head.

It won’t look right initially…tweak them at each bulkhead Slowly adjust the tape at each bulkhead until it looks good based on your contemporary model observations. Take your time with this. When one side is done, take measurements and replicate on the other side.

 

To begin I will sort the planks for colour and sameness, and I will add the first strake which should take me down to the point where the lower edge of the Wale sits.

 

Below this the planking will be on full view.

 

B.E.

07/11/21

[Gregory]

Thanks for taking the time to show your work on laying out the belts...  Very informative and instructional.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Gregory, not entirely altruistic, I also do it  as an aide memoir to prop up  my own failing memory.

... and cheers guys for your continued interest and 'likes'

 

Post Thirty-five

 

Second planking – It's all about preparation.

Tick strips have been applied to each bulkhead along the first belt, matching both sides of the hull.

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The eight plank divisions have been marked on the strips and transferred to the hull.

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These do provide a useful guide to see how the plank runs go, but inevitably (for me) there will have to be some tweaking as I go along. Errors in pencil line positions, slight variations in plank widths all conspire to throw things off.

 

I start by sorting the planking strips; on first selection 18 strips were put aside by reason of colour and/or marks on the strip.

This doesn’t mean all the strip is unusable and sections may come in later.

 

The remaining strips are then checked for consistency of width and thickness.

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Of the remainder (32) strips were sub 4mm and (20) plus 4mm.

I then looked at the thickness, I am more concerned with consistent thickness than width.

The stated thickness of 0.8mm was met with all planks being between 0.01- 0.07 over size, mostly +0.05.

This is fine, and sanding will take care of the minor differences.

 

I am also looking at using scale planks.

Sphinx Expansion Plan.

The sharp eyed will see that a drop plank is shown directly below the wale, and that the six strakes below the wale are also formed top and butt.

The other thing to note is that on this plan the  bulwarks on the Quarterdeck and Foc’sle have been pierced for the addition of twelve pounder carronades fitted in 1794.

 

Not sure my skill set will run to replicating the top and butt combined with a drop plank, or whether it is worth the effort for something that won’t be that obvious at 1:64 scale. I’ll think on it a while.

1110(2)

I printed out an enlarged image of the expansion, each half on an A4 sheet.

I need to refresh my memory of working out scale plank sizes, butt positions, and shifts on a hull, but this will be my guide.

 

Time to fit the first plank, which will in practice be covered by the wale pattern.

 

B.E.

08/11/21

 

 

[BobG]

Thanks for your step-by-step explanation about your planking process, BE. I may actually learn how to properly plank a hull by continuing to read build logs like yours and Glenn and Chuck. Of course, it's one thing to read about it and another to actually do it well!

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Bob, Chuck is the man to follow. 👍

 

Post Thirty-six

 

Planking - at last.

Planking of the first band begins with the strakes fitted in two halves at differing points along the hull. The first strake is covered by the wale.

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The first strake fitted, you can see how the tapering follows the tick marks on the hull.

I did decide to use ca for fixing .

 

Thinking About a Drop plank

This would sit immediately below the Wale, but with the post fitting of the wale pattern it would be tricky to acertain the right level with the risk that the wale would eventually part cover the drop plank set-up, and negate the effect.

With two planks fitted there was a  good match with the wale bottom at the bow, but an awkward narrow strip would be required further back to support the wale bottom. This would also throw out the planking run.

I decided that it was a fiddle too far so, like the plank I dropped the idea.🙄

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 Three strakes fitted, from this point on I will be below the wale  lower edge.

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At the stern I wet the plank for a short distance where it curves sharply down to the lower counter.

Clamps were used to hold the plank closely down until the glue set, altho’ this was fairly instant with the non runny thick ca I am using.

1138

Here you can see I suffered the issue of a ‘sprung’ plank. Not too problematic just needs cutting with a scalpel and re-gluing.

Soft or sprung planks  should be attended to they will come back to bite you later on.

1141

From the fourth strake  down  a degree of edge bending was required, and at this point  tick marks at the front half were already showing signs of running off.

 The band tape was repositioned and Fresh tick marks were re-drawn.

 The strakes have been divided up into individual planks, not a formal arrangements but roughly in sync with  scale lengths.

 

So after four days work the first band of eight strakes is completed.

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At the fore end the  plank run matches the band line.

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At the aft end which was unadjusted there is a slight divergence from the band line. I didn’t want a wider plank at the counter, so this is ok, and I will adjust the position when I re do the second band.

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The run of the planks to the stern counter.

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Onto Band two and a repeat exercise.

 

B.E.

11/11/21

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

A case for Sphinx

I don’t usually invest in a case for my models this early in a build but earlier this year when my regular case maker delivered the cover for the Royal Barge, he announced his retirement.

He wasn’t making any more but he did  have one ready made that would suit Sphinx as I intended to build her.

 

Today he delivered that case as he was also doing a final delivery to the IPMS Scale model show at Telford.

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The model sits well in the case, leaving adequate room for a stub Bowsprit.

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The base already had a ‘tarmac’ finish,  a reference to its previous purpose.

I was prepared to remove or cover this but  I quite like the look.

1205(2)

Once I reach the detail stage it will be useful to have a cover to keep the dust off.

 

This is the eighth case Paul of Just Bases has made for me, he will be missed in the Model making community.

 

 

B.E.

13/11/21

[DelF]

I'm sorry to hear that Paul from Just Bases is no longer in business.

 

On your recommendation I ordered a case from him for Royal Caroline and I was very pleased with it. I found him a pleasure to do business with and would certainly have ordered more from him.

 

Well done on getting a case for Spinx before he retired.  I guess we'll have to make our own in future  

[glbarlow]

I suppose I should consider a case for some of my models, but I’ve never thought to want one.  Not sure where I’d get one here anyway. I just blow and brush them off from time to time. 

[jpalmer1970]

1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

Not sure where I’d get one here anyway. I just blow and brush them off from time to time. 

I found a fairly local to me plastics / acrylic fabricator. They make the perspex sneeze guards etc we see all around us now post covid, but they can also do other items and shapes including display cases. I had them make me a perspex case but without a base and then found my own piece of wood to use as a base.  A lot cheaper, better and quicker than me making the whole thing myself!

[Blue Ensign]

Post Thirty-seven

 

Planking - Band Two

In the light of the modifications to Band one, Band two is re-set and the  tick divisions re-marked.

1221

In practice I am following the previous planking line and the bow taper remains constant at 3mm.

A shallow edge bend at the bow  is required on each strake, and full width planks run to the stern.

1218

The run up to the stern post requires both edge bend and twist  on the aftermost planks of strakes 11,12,13.

1207

I found it easier with these to fit the stern post edge first and trim the other end to fit the plank butt.

The tight curve was formed from a longer strip  to ease the process and avoid splitting.

With the eight strakes of the second band completed  it is time to review and re-check the planking runs.

1236(2)

The planking line matches each side as measured down from the keel against the bulkhead positions, and at the bow and sternpost.

 

I had a change of mind about using the extra Pearwood strip I purchased for the wider strakes, the colour difference is too marked against the very pale and uniform kit planking.

The resulting spiled planks would stand out  too much and be a distraction if  I am able to leave the hull unpainted.

1211(2)

Any wider spiled planks including the Garboard will be cut from some of the ‘waste’ 0.8/1mm Pearwood fret which is too good to waste.

 

Fitting  the Garboard.

My best guest is to use a slightly wider 5mm strip, broadening to 6mm at the sternpost.

This was cut and shaped from fret Pearwood of a matching tone.  At the bow it begins at b/h 1.1 and runs uniformly to b/h9 where it gradually broadens to 6mm at the sternpost.

1213

Once the curve at the stem has been formed the strake is wetted and clamped in position to form the subtle angles as it runs along the keel line.

1224

 For the Garboard I used pva glue given the good clamping positions.

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1233(2)

1239(2)

There are now nine strakes left to do.

 

I will re-mark the  plank lines, hopefully to best effect, and work both up from the garboard and down from  the wale.

The final spiled plank should  appear at strake five up from the Garboard, tucked away beneath the hull.

 

B.E.

16/11/21

 

[Thukydides]

7 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

I found it easier with these to fit the stern post edge first and trim the other end to fit the plank butt.

I found the same for planking the alert. What I ended up doing in the end was for each strake I first planked the bow, then the stern, then finally did the one in the middle as it made my life much easier.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Thirty-eight

 

Planking completion

With the plank lines re-marked, I begin the final push for completion of the hull planking.

I am now alternating strakes both up and down.

 

As each strake is  fitted I keep an eye on the likely requirements for the final spiled plank.

Something of a forlorn hope that the kit strip wood will meet without a gap.

1248(2)

With four strakes to go it is clear that a wider strip will be required for the final plank.

 

The last few strakes take a while to fettle but  at 1643 gmt on 20^th November planking is completed to my great relief.

This last stage of the planking has taken five days the last one is put into place after a full days work on the model.

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The final spiled planks, the tape is used as a template.

1268(2)

The two darker planks are of wider strip and had to be used as I ran out of the paler stuff of the right dimensions.  Fortunately they are positioned well beneath the round of the hull and out of sight in the normal display position.

 

So after three months work the basic hull is completed, time will now be spent sanding the hull to get as good a finish as I can.

 

B.E.

21/11/21

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Thirty-nine

 

Sanding and finishing the hull.

The hull needed only a light sanding and minor plank line gaps were filled with a dilute pva/pear dust mix.

 

My approach is to use a syringe filled with dilute pva to run along the seams, sprinkle pearwood dust over the line and gently brush  it across the line  before sanding to consolidate and smooth the mix.

The Pearwood sands up beautifully, and even after a fairly short time there is a silky  smooth feel to the hull.

 

These pics were taken after an hour or so and were taken to highlight any further  attention required.

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I am fairly satisfied with progress thus far, a little more fettlin’ and I think I can move on.

 

B.E.

22/11/21

 

[Rustyj]

Very nice job planking the hull B.E. 

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Rusty, but things don't always go well as you will see below. 🙄

 

Post Forty

 

A step backwards.

Just as I was getting ready to  finish the hull my eye was drawn to the forward end of the Garboard strake on the Port side and the two adjacent planks to it.

 

The finish against the stem wasn’t good enough and no minor filling however well matched would mask the deficiency.

The problem was caused by the protective tape on the stem overlapping the inner edge resulting in a fractionally short fit against the stem.

 

Nothing for it but to remove sections of planking and replace.

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Marking a template for the Garboard replacement.

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The removals went better than I could have hoped greatly assisted by Swann-morton chisel blades, and carefully applied Acetone to assist with ca de-bond.

1306(2)

These chisel blades are perfectly sized for delicate work and very sharp.

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A mornings work and the issue is resolved.

 

There is very little on a wooden model that can’t be rectified and where it is possible it is always a good idea to go back, otherwise these things tend to catch your eye forever.

 

 

B.E.

25/11/21

 

 

[Beef Wellington]

Great catching up on your progress, really beautiful planking, and really nice rework - as you say, there is very little that can't be fixed, and fixed very well in this case!

[glbarlow]

17 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

There is very little on a wooden model that can’t be rectified and where it is possible it is always a good idea to go back, otherwise these things tend to catch your eye forever.

So very true!  

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Jason and Glenn, and for the 'likes'

 

Post Forty-one

 

The moment of truth

A coat of w-o-p is applied to see if the result is now good enough to leave the lower hull unpainted.

On balance I think that it just about makes the grade.

 

A further two coats are applied; the keel and stem areas are brushed with w-o-p and immediately wiped off with a clean rag as I move along.

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I do like the look of the knee of the head with its engraved constituent parts, the lines pop out once the w-o-p is applied.

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As a bonus, I avoid the troublesome task of marking the waterline, and I wasn’t really keen on that vast expanse of white paint anyway, at least not in relation to the Navy Board style of display I am seeking to achieve.

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I can't be sure that I won't indulge in a little further fiddling with it before the point of no return,  but  for now, I'll move onto the Wales.

 

B.E.

26/11/21