HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype

[Chuck]

As an absolute...one can not say that the foremost shrouds were definitively served.  There are too many contradictions out there.  But I am going to do it anyway.  I try not to sweat the small stuff.   I have seen contemporary sources with served shrouds and those without them.  This isnt the only time when you read about contradictions in the rigging plan for a cutter of this period.  Another is the use of a mouse on the main stay.  I have only seen one instance where there was a mouse.  ALL of the others including those cutter models with contemporary period rigging show a simple splice.  So I will NOT be using a mouse.  Its one of those things where it wont have a huge impact on the model visually and the the decision is supported by more evidence than just "going with accepted model assumptions".

 

I see a lot of people using a mouse on there cutter models although there is scant primary info that they were used and mostly  examples where they werent.  But folks feel compelled to go ahead and add it because its something that modelers "always seem to do" .   See below,  No mouse in the house.

 

 

 

 

 

Chuck

[druxey]

As a general rule, serving was only applied (over worming and parcelling) where there was the possibility of chafing. The foremost shroud could get rubbed by the sail and the shrouds, where they pass around the mast head, would also be served.

 

Apparently, on some ships, the captain or commander disliked served strops because it would hide signs of deterioration of the line or its splice.

 

So, it's really model makers' choice!

[tkay11]

Nice points, Robin, and sorry if this is detracting from Chuck's log, but could someone let me know, or give an illustration of, how the mast would be placed when 'cockbiild'? This is purely my ignorance, so I apologise again.

 

Tony

[druxey]

Tony: it's not the mast, but the yard (or yards) that can be a'cockbill. This means that one yard arm is tipped lower than the other, which is raised, of course. At one time, ships' yards were tilted alternately (with the sails furled) as a mark of respect when a ranking officer had died.

[KenW]

Right.  See the drawing by Geoff Hurst of the HMS Surprise when Jack O'Brien died.

[Chuck]

For those that are building the model or even just following along....I just added another chapter of the monograph to my site.

 

Its covers the planking and lining off process and I describe it in more detail than in my log.  I have had a lot of questions about how to line off the hull and to plank by bending edgewise etc.   Unlike the tutorial i posted on this site that talks about cutting the curved planks from wider stock,  or using tape to find the curve.... this chapter shows how I pre-bent the planks edgewise to achieve the same thing.  Neither technique is better than the other.  They are just different.  I hope it helps along with those videos posted as nobody could actually see how I was marking each plank etc in the videos.

 

Let me know if you have any questions.  I have posted all of the chapters through chapter four.....I am almost caughtup with writing. Yippee 

 

http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/revenue-cutter-cheerful-1806.php

 

Chuck

[Mahuna]

Hi Chuck:

 

Chapter 4 is a gem!  I recommend it to anyone starting planking for the first time, regardless of the model they're working on.

 

Frank

[KenW]

Chuck:  Your model has all the qualities that we should be striving for.  But, I have a question -

On my current model, I'm almost ready to begin planking the outer hull.  What is the best way to locate the bottom edge of the wales when there are no laser etched reference marks on each bulkhead?  My kit, and I suspect most kits, don't have these helpful marks.

Thanks.

[Chuck]

Thanks

 

Measure from the top of sheer down.   Then using a similar device you would mark a waterline with......transfer that measurement to the model.    

 

Chuck

[KenW]

Well, I'm going to have everyone to realize how much of an idiot I am.

I found the definition of a sheer as, "the upward sweep of the deck or bulwarks of a vessel". 

So, are you saying that the bottom (or top) of the wales goes from the level of the deck at the stern and stem, down to the water line at the middle of the vessel?  And the curve must "look right"?

Thanks.

[Chuck]

Nope....Basically measure from the top of the cap rail of the bulwarks down to the wales.....Then transfer that measurement to you model.

 

Chuck

[Chuck]

No update but I did want to let folks know I completed the last chapter of the monograph.   It is uploaded on my website here for folks building it along with me.

 

http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/revenue-cutter-cheerful-1806.php

 

This has been a busy few weeks but I am now up to date with all my writing and have  fully stocked my parts inventory.   After this weekend's joint clubs show and conference (new london CT) I will have plenty of time to work on the model.  I am so looking forward to next week and will begin working on the inside bulwarks as soon I get back.

 

I can't believe I am caught up with everything!!!   Now its time for some fun 

[gjdale]

Famous last words Chuck! I somehow suspect that after the show/conference, you will be needing to do some major re-stocking of your inventory! Which of course, is a nice problem to have.

[Jorge Diaz O]

Nice,very nice...the helmet is not clinker ?

[Chuck]

Some progress was made today.  I wanted to get this crappy part of the project over with.  The bulwarks inboard were faired and thinned down.  I use the sanding drum on my dremel.   What a mess. Then I touched it up with some sandpaper after chiseling some areas away where the bulkhead extensions met the deck.   The bulkhead extensions were thinned down to about 1/16" thick.  I may take them down thinner still.  Maybe 3/64" thick.  You can see them in the close up image below.

 

 

Then I took the template for the false deck from the plans.  I cut it down the middle so I had two halves port and starboard.  You could also make four pieces but I made two and it was fine.  The important thing is to use the center line on the template to line it up with the center of the bulkhead former.  I wanted to try something new with this project.  I intentionally made the template drawing about 1/8" smaller than need on the sides of the hull.  Trying to get a perfect match for folks is tough.  It all depends on how much someone thins down the bulwarks etc....how they fair the hull inboard and its tough to get a perfect match for everyone's model.   

 

 

So basically I took each half one at a time...lined it up with the center line and the mast hole.  I taped it along the bulkhead former.  Then I used thin strips of blue painters tape to find the perfect size and shape for my false deck template.  I just rand lengths of tape along the bulwarks as shown in the photos.   When I peel it up I will have a template that is the perfect match for making my false deck.  It will be cut from 1/16" basswood.   I will get that done tomorrow and post some new pics.   Once the false deck is in position I can plank the inboard bulwarks.

 

Chuck

[Stuntflyer]

Very nice as usual Chuck! When do you thin down those stern frames?

 

Mike

Edited June 8, 2015 by Stuntflyer

[Chuck]

They are thinned down....thats their finished thickness.  Check the plans.

 

See this example of a cutter stern from inboard...see how the frames are exposed?  The top is the Cheerful from rogers collection and the bottom is Surly from the museum in Ontario.

 

Chuck

 

 

 

[Chuck]

Finished planking the bulwarks on the port side after installing the false deck.   The false deck was 1/16" thick.   Then I added some filler strips at the bow and stern where I thought I needed it.  At the bow to beef up where the hawse holes will be.  You can see these strips below which I used 1/16" thick scrap strips for these filler pieces.

 

 

The first plank (3/16" wide and 3/64" thick) was placed right below the gun ports.  The planking below the ports inboard is thick and stands proud of the planking between the ports.  This will be accomplished in two layers much like the wales.   Placing the plank directly below the ports first allows me to get the run of the planking correct as it must follow the bottom of the ports.  Then the remaining planks were added below that and above.  Once completed the second layer of thicker planking was added.  This is the spirketing.  It runs from the deck to the port sills and is thicker....but not by very much.  The original planking draft has the spirketing just 1/2" thicker.  I used 1/32" thick planks for the second layer and actually thinned them down a bit more.  Then I softened the edge where it stands proud along the sills.  I try to soften all of the hard edges like this.  The thickness of the hull where the caprail will be is 5/32" thick after planking.  The cap rail will be 3/16' wide hanging over a bit outboard. 

 

Once I get the planking done on the other side I will install the cap rail.

 

 

 

[Rustyj]

Hi Chuck.

 

The planking looks great and I'm glad to see you've gotten some time to work on the Cheerful.  

[Ilhan Gokcay]

Correct!!!  Bottom of ports follow the run of the deck.  Sides are vertical and straight with teh frames.  Port lids will be the same.  Typical mistake seen on kits.  Not all ports are completely square at all.  Take a look at this original draft.  The red dashed square is at right angles.  Note how the port is not.   It follows the deck.

 

portshape.jpg

I wonder how the hinges are fixed in this case, parallel to the sides or vertical to the top side ?

[Jorge Diaz O]

Ansio verlo terminado 

[Maury S]

She looks great Chuck!!!

Maury

[Chuck]

After planking the bulwarks I painted it red.  The finished bulwarks were 5/32" thick.  Maybe slightly thinner.  Then it was time to add the caprail.  It will be added in two pieces.  First the main rail which is 1/16" thick.  This was sanded flush both inboard and outboard.   Another strip will eventually be placed outboard as a fancy molding.  It is scraped like the others and is 1/6" x 1/32".  But it wasnt added yet.

 

First I had to create the hawse hole plates....which are essentially 1/32" thick pieces with the holes ut for the hawse holes and the bowsprit.  This sits flush with the top of the caprail so I had to add it first before I could add the fancy molding strip along the caprail outboard.  I didnt drill the hawse holes yet.  This will be done next.  But the hawse plates in position makes it easy to find their locations.  So that will be done in a day or two.

 

Lastly I added that fancy molding strip outboard for the cap rail which stands proud of the hull planking and finishes it off.   This is where I am to date and after drilling the hawse holes and hole for the bowsprit I will make preparations to start planking the deck.   Its getting there...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am contemplating painting the hawse plates and the stem above the ear molding black.....along with the fashion pieces at the stern.  But I have time to decide that.  So I will live with it as it is shown for a while before I commit to it.  Maybe after I drill and file the holes for the bowsprit and such...we shall see.

 

 

 

 

[Stuntflyer]

Wow, That looks fantastic!

 

Mike

[GLakie]

She sure is a pretty ship to feast my eyes on Chuck. That fashion piece is going to be a tough call since it looks really good just as it is,. but I'm sure whatever you decide will look great.  

[Chuck]

Thanks guys...its nice to be back working on her.   The deck planking is the last major project on the model.  I have to start with making the coamings and gratings first.

 

Chuck

[Kevin]

wow chuck - i have missed so much of this project, lovely to catch up 

[rafine]

Looking great Chuck. The rest of us hope just to get close to what you do.

 

Bob

[Chuck]

Thank you guys.

 

Just a real quick update.   Not to much except I did drill the hawse holes and the hole for the bowsprit.  As simple as this procedure may sound it is actually rather tricky.  I had to be really careful to drill these parallel to the keel and straight back.  There is always a tendency to just drill through straight in.  But instead,  the bit must be held so it enters the bulwarks parallel to the keel.  I started with a small hole so if the angle was wrong it could be corrected.  Then I switched to needle files and then an even bigger round file to finish it off.  

 

The angle is super important because the hole for the bowsprit must be drilled the same way.  Straigh back and parallel to the centerline.   If the hawse holes were drilled at an "off" angle then there wouldnt be room to properly create the hole for the bowsprit.  I used a graphite pencil to darken the hawse holes but I may go back and use a dull flat dark gray instead,   No rush to decide.

 

Now I can move on and start creating the waterway in preparation for the deck planking.

 

Chuck

 

 

 

[fnick]

Hi Chuck

 

I still can't get over how perfect your planking is. Superb build!!

 

Nick