Group Prototype HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)

[dvm27]

56 minutes ago, fnkershner said:

Do you have a suggestion on how we can obtain scale figures for our models.

I have contacted the person who has designed and hand painted several figures for my models in the past and they are of the highest quality. If he is interested in producing a limited run of naval figures (generally a lieutenant and a couple of sailors in different poses) I would be happy to facilitate it. But figures of this quality are not cheap. If interested please send me an e-mail at dvm27@comcast.net. Please do not post requests here!

 

[Chuck]

I might just take you up on that Greg but I will contact you once I get closer to completion.

 

This is the fella I would need...Capt. Nathaniel Bateman

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

I would be interested in a few figures if you were to offer them through syren. I assume that is the Capt you are showing above? 

[Edwardkenway]

Are you still planning to have a Borlase Warren figure? I got quite excited as he was born just five miles from where I live and is quite a celebrated fella in Nottingham, England 

[Chuck]

I dont know...he was commander of the squadron.   I am not sure if I will have any figures actually.  It costs big bucks to get them made and then cast.  It would be nice however.

 

Chuck

[scrubbyj427]

I bet Jack @hjx could whip up a 3-D figure that matches the image you posted for cnc or 3D print pretty quick.

[Trussben]

Wow Chuck, you are making great progress on this beautiful model.

[PRS]

Check out these figures:

https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Iain.lovecraft

 

[Jorge Diaz O]

59 minutes ago, PRS said:

Mira estas cifras:

https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Iain.lovecraft

 

 

 

Interesting figures but they look like cartoons, they are not so real.

[Chuck]

1 hour ago, Trussben said:

Wow Chuck, you are making great progress on this beautiful model.

Thanks….I miss your winnie updates.  You gonna start up on her again soon.

[Trussben]

Hey Chuck,

 

Yeh, I plan to start modelling again this fall, Ive been so busy with work and other projects ( TR6 restoration ) that both Pegasus and Winnie have been covered up for a long time.

Maybe I will find some time during the summer to get the Winnie hull planking completed.

[shipmodel]

Hi Chuck, and all - 

 

A quick internet search led me to these, from Woodland Scenics - 

https://scenearama.woodlandscenics.com/show/Item/SP4454/page/1

5 Revolutionary soldiers, officers and men, who look like they could be modified very easily.  Only $9.99

I also found highly detailed individual 75mm figures, including a Royal Navy commander

https://www.sabotminiatures.com/The-Commander-Royal-Navy-XIX-sec-75mm-p/best_75018.htm

Not cheap at about $50 each.

 

Hope that helps

 

Dan

[ouizel]

I just got this 1:48 set of Gold Miners from Pegasus to show scale on my 1:48 Armed Viriginia Sloop.  It was cheap (~$10 delivered via Amazon) and I think that I can repurpose a couple of the poses where he's holding a shovel handle to be grabbing a line.  They are obviously not officers but could easily be a coastal sailor of the period, I think.  They are also available in 1:72.

http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=1727

[Chuck]

I just started some discussions to get one custom figure made of the capt.  We shall see how it goes.

[Gregory]

What I want to know, is why Jack hasn't been commissioned to make some boxwood figures at $100 a pop?😁

[Chuck]

To have one master made would certainly be in the $300 - $350 range.    

[Chuck]

Getting back to the Winnie....I have been designing and tweaking the mini-kit for the chain pumps.   I think I have it where I want it now.

 

This mini-kit is all boxwood.  Every part of the this pump is laser cut.  The nail details are laser etched.  These were a challenge because they are the smallest nails I have simulated with the laser.   It took plenty of attempts before I got it right.  This is the Starboard side chain pump.   When I make the other I will take pictures at every step.  But I thought I would share my efforts.  This is actually the very first time I have built one of these as no models I have ever made showed them.   So it was a treat.  Greg Herbert's chain pumps were the inspiration for these.  There are still some details that could be added if you wanted to....I think you will like making these.  I still have to add the handle for the plug.  Compare the detail with any other chain pump made for a kit.   I really tried hard to make it look as detailed as any scratch effort but with everything laser cut.

 

I will also be making these in 3/16" scale and offering them as stand alone mini-kits in both scales.    But these will come as part of chapter 7 so no need to buy the mini-kit when you see it posted..

 

Chuck

 

[Rustyj]

Wow that is simply amazing work!

[dvm27]

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

Greg Herbert's chain pumps were the inspiration for these

Greg Herbert's chain pumps are jealous of these! Those laser simulated nail heads are phenomenal. Since you've included the rhodings perhaps the tongue, also in black, would be the icing on the cake.

[Chuck]

Thanks Greg…I am thinking about it.  Just have to figure out how best to do it.  May e some laser board.  I think brass would be too thick.

[Thistle17]

You have turned design for laser machining into an art form Chuck, i.e. the windlass and now the chain pump! What is next????

Joe

[Chuck]

Thanks

 

I am going to add the handle for the plug and the tongue.  The tongue is the iron flat strap thing on the plan that sticks up on the one side.

 

I imagine the next big piece will be the stove....that is in chapter 8.

 

 

 

[JpR62]

These chain pumps are little jewels! Every time I discover a new element, it's a wonder.. Laser cutting mastery at its highest level!

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Im having blast watching whats materialising on deck and Chucks speedy progress. Looks like we are going forward standing aft. deck is getting lovely busy. im anticipating the final black rail most. but ill zave to wait tillend i guess:))). from the start :). thank you.

[Chuck]

Making the Chain Pumps...

 

As mentioned all of the wood parts are laser cut from boxwood.  You will get all the parts for the port side on one sheet and the starboard on another.  So just build one at a time.  The first part that needs our attention is the 7/32" thick core.

 

Step one-

 

Sand the laser char from all of the edges.   Take your time and keep the edges straight.   Dont bother sanding the front or back face as these will be covered up.  They will remain nice and flat if you dont touch them.  In addition....dont clean the char from the bottom of the piece.  Keep that flat as well.  But all of the edges including those two pump tubes at the bottom should be clean of char.  You can see one core that has not been cleaned of char yet.  Note the arrow...this will be important.

 

 

REALLY IMPORTANT:  For this mini kit you will see me call only for certain areas to be sanded free of laser char.  This is important for many reasons.   It has to do with the build sequence and keeping the parts properly sized and shaped.   Keep that in mind when you read through this and dont jump ahead and clean off all the char on every piece.  I will let you know when you can do so.  The results will be much better.

 

STEP 2 - 

 

Glue the bottom base of the pump into position.  Note that the extended, curved side is on the end of the pump where the arrow points.  Also note that I have NOT cleaned the char off of any of the edges yet.  That will come later.  But if you want...you can sand the top surface clean before gluing it in position.  

 

STEP 3 ...Glue the larger side panels onto the core.  Sit the bottom edge of these side pieces right down on the base.  Dont sand the char from the edges yet.  Make sure the arrows are pointing in the right direction.   They follow the arrow on the core.  The important thing with this step is to line up the center hole for the crank shaft.  That is crucial.

 

Because these layers are so thin they will bend and warp with titebond.   I used titebond so I can slide these pieces into position.  One side layer at a time.  Use clamps to prevent the layer warping....trust me it will lift up if you dont clamp it.  It is slightly over-sized all around except the bottom edge.  Just line up that hole!!

 

After both first layers are in position you can sand the char from certain edges.  Allow me to explain.  The photo below shows the sides sanded FLUSH with the core and clean from char.   But leave the rounded edges of the top and dont sand that at all.   But the little edges on either side should be sanded flush with the top of the core.  Note the back edge of the floor or base is now sanded as well as the back side is all flush with the core.

 

In that same photo you can see the next layer added to the back face of the pump.  This is there to show you why you must sand the ends flush with that first layer in position.  This next outer layer wont be flush and you will never get clean and neat otherwise.

 

The same is true for the other side....Note  how the first layer you put on is sanded flush with the edge of the core.  AND the top is also sanded flush but the rounded section is left alone.  Dont remove the char on that.  You want the rounded hood to be perfectly shaped.  Leave the char on it.  This is important again because the next layer will extend forward.  You can see it also added in the photo below.

 

You can also see that the floor or base is still not cleaned of char except for that one side which is all flush with the core.

STEP 4...

 

That next layer you saw in the previous photos can now be glued on the model.  But you should absolutely clean the char from edges of these before you do so.  Clean the edges before gluing.

 

  But as you can see....only clean the side edges and the top edge.   But leave the clamp in the center with the shaft hole alone.  Dont bother cleaning the char from the edges.  It is fragile and leaving it as is will look great.  Dont sand the bottom edge either because then the hole wont line up with the other layers. It will sit too low.   You can see how the back end of the pump is all flush....but this last layer will extend forward on the other side.   Start with the layer showing the cut-out for the plug first.  That should help you get alignment correct.

 

You can see the other sides layer ready for gluing.....all the edges you need to clean are sanded nicely.

 

STEP 5...I think...

 

As the photo above shows....now you can sand the edges of the base all around to clean up the char.   The front and back edges are sanded flush....nice and clean.

 

The extended side of the floor is also finally sanded clean.  Its starting to look like a chain pump now.  Now the fun parts...just a few little details to add.

 

STEP 6...

 

In this step you will be adding the two legs.  The fancy legs are cleaned of char and glued to the bottom side of the base.  Just remember to put it on the correct side.  One side is longer because of the mast partners.   The fancy legs go on the side shown.  Then do the other side which is sanded flush all around.  You can also glue the drain plug into position.  I left the char in place as it looks good that way.  It will stand proud of the chain pump box.

 

Then there are two long skinny pieces that are glued on the inside where the outside layers extend beyond the core.  You can see them on the chain pump plans.   Just clean them up and glue them on.  

 

 

Step 7...in that same photo you can see that the round hood for the chain pump has many thin boards that need to be glued in position.   This isnt difficult but they are small pieces.   You should bevel the edges slightly so they fit tightly.  If you dont bevel the edges the seams between each plank will be too wide.  I just lightly sanded a bevel by eye.  No need to measure and obsess about the angles.

 

Now if you are afraid the math wont work out and when you get to the other side you will be left with a space....fear not.  I also included two wider planks just for this occasion.  When you get close to planking the whole top of the hood....test a few dry fit planks to see how much space needs to be filled.  I did this when I had four remaining planks to add.   Turns out I only needed to adjust and use one wider plank.  You cant even notice it.  Sand the sides of the hood flush so its nice and neat when they are all added.  They are initially just a hair longer than needed.

 

To finish up the chain pumps....add a tiny length of 28 gauge black wire for the drain plug handle.   The add the tongue.  Thats the long metal piece on the front end of the pump.  I used a small length of 1/32" x 1/64" brass strip.  Just bend the end and round them off.  I blackened it and glued it in position.

 

Apply a coat of Wipe on Poly to bring out the nail patterns and you are good to go!!!!

[JpR62]

Always so didactic. It is again a step by step model. Thank you for these instructions which are always so precise. The art of making things easier for us!

[Chuck]

Positioning the chain pumps its finicky.  No silver bullet here.  I positioned and glued the gallows in permanently first.   Then I carefully inserted a 1mm brass rod through the chain pumps.  I guess each length was about 5" give or take.  This will help me position the pumps so the brass rod touches the inside edge of the gallows uprights.   Once I am satisfied, the chain pumps were glued in permanently.   The brass rod was pulled back so I could repeat the process with the jeer bits.   You can slide the brass rod back and forth to help you line things up.  Then I glued the jeer bitts in position.   

 

 

With those elements glued in finally I can make my Rhodings.  You only need four so you might as well make some nice one.  No need to rush these after spending so much time on the other details.  You can use wood or brass.  Brass would be best.  But a hard wood like boxwood works well too.  I used a 1/6" x 1/16" boxwood strip.  Just take your time and file them to shape.  These should be about 5mm long when done.  Make sure the 1mm brass rod fits as is shown on the photo below.  It should slide under the rhoding easily.  Paint them black and glue them on.

 

BUT...when you glue them on...use the brass rod through the pumps to guide you but make sure you can still slide it back and forth freely.  We will need to remove these ultimately to shape proper crank handles soon.   You dont want to glue the rod in permanenetly.   Its just a guide at this point.

 

Rhodings were glued on permanently and then the brass rod was used again to help align those two columns.  A hole is drilled through them as shown.   Use a #59 drill bit.   But by sliding the brass rod up against the column first you can mark the location for the hole before you drill it.  Then glue it in position....keep them straight and vertical and all lined up.  I pulled the rod out of the column so you can see how it was used as a guide first.

[svein erik]

Thas is a nice peace.... 

yor model is lokking like a Rembrant as always😊

 

 

svein.e

[niwotwill]

Amazing pumps and using the rod for alignment a great technique. Like match drilling on building hot rods in my past.

 

Make it a good day

Will 

[Jim Rogers]

Could the two wider planks go top center?