Shimakaze by Landlubber Mike - FINISHED - Hasegawa - 1:350 - PLASTIC - Japanese WWII Destroyer

[Landlubber Mike]

4 hours ago, king derelict said:

The masts look terrific. Good ideas with the toothpicks. I struggle to find good ways to secure parts for painting and I hate picking blue tack residue off the parts.

Thanks

Alan

Alan

Hey Alan, thank you. In the past, I mostly used toothpicks with a bit of blue tack on the tip.  Found that tricky to hold the part and then as you say, having to pick out stray blue tack after isn’t much fun.  The hole drilling approach and the approach of just using CA glue on the tip of a toothpick is so much easier.  

[mtaylor]

21 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Eh, Lou, I find it just easier to take swigs from the bottle.  Thanks for the nice words!

Ah... very wise move.  Those small parts would make my cross forever..   Well done.

[lmagna]

On 10/13/2021 at 6:37 PM, Landlubber Mike said:

I find it just easier to take swigs from the bottle

That works too.

[RogerF]

Some great work here Mike, most PE stuff is a challenge - even in 1/350 as you say - but the results are very rewarding. I'll be following a bit more closely now. Keep up the good work.

[Beef Wellington]

Amazing work Mike, those PE modifications are a great idea and perfectly executed.  Those small enhancements add yet more depth to the model.

[Kevin]

Lovely work Mike, very nice indeed

[Landlubber Mike]

So I think I've managed to get the hull painted.  I'm not as concerned about the lower portion as most will be covered up in the diorama.  I did try to emulate the oil canning effect by shooting lines of very diluted white mixed in with the hull color.  I found the vertical lines much easier to do than the long horizontal lines - maybe something to do with hand motions being a lot straighter up and down than left to right.  I had to correct a portion at the starboard side of the bow which looks pretty good without the horizontal lines, but not sure if I want to repaint the full upper hull again.  I sprayed some very diluted paint to help blend everything together and I figure that after adding some shading and grime with oils, everything should tie in ok.

 

 

For what it's worth, I used a GSI-Creos PS-771 from Spraygunner.  It has a 0.18mm nozzle.  I figured if I was going to do 1/700 models, I might as well try out a smaller airbrush for fine detail work.  I really like it - very nice quality and easy to use and clean.  Gives me a little more fine spray than my 0.35mm Iwata Eclipse.

 

I think at this point I can assemble all the pre-painted pieces, then clear coat for decal, shading, and weathering work.  Should start looking more like a destroyer very soon.

 

Thanks for looking in!

 

 

 

 

[Landlubber Mike]

Slowly making more progress.  I thought once I painted the details that it would be a day or two more of work and then I could get to clear coating and weathering.  Has been a little bit more involved.  I think I'm just about at the point where a few more final details and paint touchups and I can start finalizing the build.  It's amazing how many details there are on destroyers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I ended up buying a hot wire foam cutter (Proxxon) to be able to cleanly cut foam to make the diorama base.  I need to look into what type of foam board to buy.  I think some use standard styrofoam, while you can also use stuff like expanded foam, builder foam (might be the same as expanded foam), etc.   Not exactly sure what all those are, so need to educate myself.  The great thing about the hot wire cutter is that you end up with clean cuts and don't have bits and pieces of foam all over the place with that nasty electrostatic cling if you use a saw or knife to cut it.  Well worth the money in my opinion, as I hate trying to clean up foam particles that stick to everything but inside the garbage bin.

[lmagna]

12 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

It's amazing how many details there are on destroyers.

Your build keeps getting better and better Mike. As for being a cluttered ship, you need to remember that this ship was almost as large as a WWI light cruiser!

 

[Landlubber Mike]

Thanks Lou, really appreciate the kind words.

 

On size, you're totally right.  For another comparison, I was looking at the expected lengths of various models in my stash the other day, and saw that the Shimakaze was about 425 ft long.  The USS Gambier Bay, an escort carrier, was 512 feet long.  Not too much smaller.

[lmagna]

A number of light cruisers of WWI were in the 450+- foot range. But as far as I know, none were as fast. 

[king derelict]

6 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Slowly making more progress.  I thought once I painted the details that it would be a day or two more of work and then I could get to clear coating and weathering.  Has been a little bit more involved.  I think I'm just about at the point where a few more final details and paint touchups and I can start finalizing the build.  It's amazing how many details there are on destroyers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I ended up buying a hot wire foam cutter (Proxxon) to be able to cleanly cut foam to make the diorama base.  I need to look into what type of foam board to buy.  I think some use standard styrofoam, while you can also use stuff like expanded foam, builder foam (might be the same as expanded foam), etc.   Not exactly sure what all those are, so need to educate myself.  The great thing about the hot wire cutter is that you end up with clean cuts and don't have bits and pieces of foam all over the place with that nasty electrostatic cling if you use a saw or knife to cut it.  Well worth the money in my opinion, as I hate trying to clean up foam particles that stick to everything but inside the garbage bin.

Mike

It looks great. The details are beautiful. 

I like the 1 inch thick extruded foam. Extruded foam is a bit .more rigid than expanded foam and doesn't disintegrate into beads when you attempt to cut it. It cuts nicely with a hot foam cutter or a sharp knife (including kitchen knives - don't ask me how I know). You can buy it in one foot squares at Home Depot at a $1 each. Currently it seems to be light green.

Alan

[Landlubber Mike]

Thanks Alan, that's great to know!  Thank you!

[CDW]

She looks superb, Mike. Very neat, cleanly built details.

[mikegr]

8 hours ago, king derelict said:

Mike

It looks great. The details are beautiful. 

I like the 1 inch thick extruded foam. Extruded foam is a bit .more rigid than expanded foam and doesn't disintegrate into beads when you attempt to cut it. It cuts nicely with a hot foam cutter or a sharp knife (including kitchen knives - don't ask me how I know). You can buy it in one foot squares at Home Depot at a $1 each. Currently it seems to be light green.

Alan

in fact the thinner the blade, the easier the foam cut.

[Old Collingwood]

She is looking Fantastic Mike.

 

OC.

[FriedClams]

Found your log a few days ago and I’ve been reading through it.  Very nice model Mike and you’re doing a wonderful job.  Terrific work on the PE - so small and intricate.  Look forward to seeing more.

 

Gary

[RogerF]

On 11/3/2021 at 4:51 PM, Landlubber Mike said:

Slowly making more progress.  I thought once I painted the details that it would be a day or two more of work and then I could get to clear coating and weathering.  Has been a little bit more involved.  I think I'm just about at the point where a few more final details and paint touchups and I can start finalizing the build.  It's amazing how many details there are on destroyers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I ended up buying a hot wire foam cutter (Proxxon) to be able to cleanly cut foam to make the diorama base.  I need to look into what type of foam board to buy.  I think some use standard styrofoam, while you can also use stuff like expanded foam, builder foam (might be the same as expanded foam), etc.   Not exactly sure what all those are, so need to educate myself.  The great thing about the hot wire cutter is that you end up with clean cuts and don't have bits and pieces of foam all over the place with that nasty electrostatic cling if you use a saw or knife to cut it.  Well worth the money in my opinion, as I hate trying to clean up foam particles that stick to everything but inside the garbage bin.

Looking at these photos it's hard to believe that this is 1/700 scale. I'm currently working in 1/700 scale myself so I know just how fiddly this level of PE detailing really is. You must feel delighted that the results so close to finishing have turned out to be so spot-on. This represents a very fine example of the skilled model builders capabilities and I find the attention to detail in a model this tiny to be quite extraordinary. Excellent work Mike, I'm very much looking forward to the finished seascape - a seascape would be a step to far for me!!

[Landlubber Mike]

16 hours ago, FriedClams said:

Found your log a few days ago and I’ve been reading through it.  Very nice model Mike and you’re doing a wonderful job.  Terrific work on the PE - so small and intricate.  Look forward to seeing more.

 

Gary

 

Thanks Gary, really appreciate it!  

 

8 hours ago, RogerF said:

Looking at these photos it's hard to believe that this is 1/700 scale. I'm currently working in 1/700 scale myself so I know just how fiddly this level of PE detailing really is. You must feel delighted that the results so close to finishing have turned out to be so spot-on. This represents a very fine example of the skilled model builders capabilities and I find the attention to detail in a model this tiny to be quite extraordinary. Excellent work Mike, I'm very much looking forward to the finished seascape - a seascape would be a step to far for me!!

 

Roger, thanks very much for the kind words.  I'm pretty pleased with how this is coming out, but I have to say, Hasegawa did a really nice job with this kit and the Infini upgrade set is spectacular.  So, all I can really do is screw things up and go down from there  

 

This is actually 1/350 scale.  I don't know if there is all that much more detail than 1/700 scale - the Five Star upgrade set for my 1/700 Hatsuzakura had a lot of these details!  The only difference I would say is that at 1/700, a lot of the details are in fewer PE parts that just need more folds (e.g., the guns) or that use more three-dimensional parts like the bases for things like the davits and the guns.  These days, both scales give you the opportunity to really add a lot of more defined details to the model though.  I was originally going to start my plastic ship collection with this model, but started with the 1/700 destroyer to get a little more experience before tackling this one.  I learned a lot from that kit, especially on how to manipulate PE, using an airbrush, etc.  I still have a ways to go on getting better though.

Edited November 11, 2021 by Landlubber Mike

[Kevin]

that looks so very nice

 

[Landlubber Mike]

Finally got most of the details onto the hull and will spray gloss clear tonight in preparation for the weathering, etc. process.  I have a few more things to add like a few more AA guns and the small boats, but I wanted to make sure I had access to areas for adding washes and other treatments.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I used some other sets to get a little more detail to the kit.  FiveStar sells resin life buoys which are nice because they are 3D and don't have to be folded like PE buoys, and you can paint them right off the plug.  The kit searchlight was ok, but I ended up using a FineMolds 90cm searchlight which I thought gave better detail:

 

 

 

Here are the torpedos and their carriages - great little details from the Infini upgrade set:

 

 

Small boats - lots of little details from Infini, including the wood bottoms for the cutters:

 

 

The resource books I posted at the beginning of the log showed a small lantern hanging from the pole at the bow.  The FineMolds set with the searchlight included small lanterns, so after trimming to size, I added it to the bow.  Nice little touch I think:

 

 

After the weathering, I'll put together the seascape, add the rigging and flags, and add figures to the model.  I've left a few little details here and there for added interest, including an open torpedo hatch, a hatch at the top of one of the other torpedo launchers, an open ammo box, etc.  

 

Thanks for looking in!

[king derelict]

Thats a spectacular model Mike. The details are beautifully executed. Very impressive

Alan

[RogerF]

On 11/11/2021 at 6:12 PM, Landlubber Mike said:

 

Thanks Gary, really appreciate it!  

 

 

Roger, thanks very much for the kind words.  I'm pretty pleased with how this is coming out, but I have to say, Hasegawa did a really nice job with this kit and the Infini upgrade set is spectacular.  So, all I can really do is screw things up and go down from there  

 

This is actually 1/350 scale.  I don't know if there is all that much more detail than 1/700 scale - the Five Star upgrade set for my 1/700 Hatsuzakura had a lot of these details!  The only difference I would say is that at 1/700, a lot of the details are in fewer PE parts that just need more folds (e.g., the guns) or that use more three-dimensional parts like the bases for things like the davits and the guns.  These days, both scales give you the opportunity to really add a lot of more defined details to the model though.  I was originally going to start my plastic ship collection with this model, but started with the 1/700 destroyer to get a little more experience before tackling this one.  I learned a lot from that kit, especially on how to manipulate PE, using an airbrush, etc.  I still have a ways to go on getting better though.

 

Thanks Mike, calling it a 1/700 scale model was a 'senior moment' I think, well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it!

The detail is still spectacular and she's looking great. Can't wait to see her finished.

[Landlubber Mike]

I'm on the home stretch with this build.  Managed to add some other details including the wood slats in the rack near the funnels (used some cherry veneer I had, cut into thin strips and used wipe-on poly), then weathered and added the final clear coat last night.  Will add the torpedos and carts, the small boats, and figures, and then rig the model and add flags.  For my first 1/350 plastic ship model, I'm really pleased with how it's turning out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As a little preview, given how fast and sleek the Shimakaze was, ever since I got the kit, I thought presenting the ship in a waterline setting would really show it off.  So, I built a waterline diorama base for the model as well.  It's made of foam board using the crinkled aluminum foil technique.  I built the frame for the diorama using balsa strips that I got from National Balsa in the thickness I needed, that I cut to size and stained.  I first practiced making a waterline diorama for my 1/700 destroyer, which is just about done, and can post pictures of it in the next couple of days.  This one obviously is a little bigger but so far so good.  

 

 

 

 

Thanks for looking in!

 

 

Edited January 18, 2022 by Landlubber Mike

[Glen McGuire]

45 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

It's made of foam board using the crinkled aluminum foil technique.

 

Mike, can you describe this technique in more detail of or point me to where I can see more info on it? 

[JohnB40]

Mike, Stunning piece of modeling once again. I find it unbelievable when I reference the scale to the Tamiya jar. I'm looking forward to viewing your destroyer diorama.

[Landlubber Mike]

Hey Glen, 

 

There are a number of different techniques you can use.  Some use this technique, others add clay to a base to get the waves, others use artist watercolor paper, and then there are those that carve the sea out of wood.  In part, I think it depends on the scale you are working in and how rough the seas you are trying to portray.  So for example, if you were working in 1/700 scale, the watercolor paper approach should be just fine.  Working in a larger scale or with rough seas, paper wouldn't work I don't think.

 

For the seas here, I followed the general technique by Scale-a-ton on YouTube.  He has a few different builds on his channel with this technique.  I think I used an amalgam of what he shows on his various videos, so take a look at his ship builds.  I'm infinitely grateful that he took the time to share his techniques with the rest of us!

 

 

Essentially, the steps are:

 

1.  Get a board (I used insulating foam board from Home Depot), cut it to size, mark the outline of where your hull will sit.

 

2.  Crinkle up bits of aluminum foil and put them on the board using white glue.  When finished, put white glue over the entire board, and put a full sheet of aluminum foil over the top to smooth out any sharp points.

 

3.  Next comes paints - I primed with white Mr. Surfacer, followed by a light and irregular spray of Tamiya sea blue.  Then you spray Tamiya gloss clear over everything, followed by Tamiya clear blue, followed by another coat of Tamiya gloss clear.  You can add in other colors (grays, blues, greens, etc.) as you see fit.  The key is to not add a full, heavy solid coat of any of the paints, but keep the airbrush moving so you get interesting variations and tones.

 

4.  Then you add the hull to the board, and use heavy gloss gel medium to build up the seas and spray around the ship.  I used Liquitex.  You can use cotton dabbed with the gel medium to indicate spray (the cotton stays white).  I haven't tried this yet, but for larger waves, you can build them up using bits of toilet paper which turn clear when the gel medium is added.

 

5.  Finally, you can use paints (white, light blues, light greens, etc.) to help indicate the wakes, waves crests, disturbed water around the ship, etc.

 

 

It seemed like a very easy technique for my first time, and so far has worked pretty well on both my 1/700 and 1/350 builds.  For my current Yaeyama 1/700 build, I might try the watercolor paper technique shown in this Vallejo video as I'm planning on showing the model anchored in still waters.

 

 

 

 

[Landlubber Mike]

15 minutes ago, JohnB40 said:

Mike, Stunning piece of modeling once again. I find it unbelievable when I reference the scale to the Tamiya jar. I'm looking forward to viewing your destroyer diorama.

 

John, thanks very much!  I think I said this before, but the kit and Infini detail set are what do most of the work here.  I'm just trying not to mess things up too much.  Thank goodness for Optivisors and fine tweezers though!

[lmagna]

You may have started with  a nice kit Mike but there is no question that you have surly turned it into an exquisite build!................... And I'm not even a big Japanese ship fan!  

[Old Collingwood]

Excellent work Mike  - really nice  sharp details.

 

OC.