HMS Sphinx 1775 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[BobG]

3 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

I like to insert tiny hidden scrolls deep into the hull of models.

 

That's a very cool idea, BE. What a wonderful surprise that will be for someone someday.

 

I placed "time capsule" in the wall of our kitchen when we remodeled it 15 years ago. I included a photo of our family, several pages from a newspaper with news of the world and a handwritten note about us and the history of the house for whomever might find it many years in the future.  

[Gahm]

Your decoration really turned out amazing! Wonderful job, B.E.!

 

Thomas

[Theodosius]

The paintwork is phantastic! And the idear of the time capsuls is freaking cool 🙂

[Blue Ensign]

Cheers Guys, I think we all should add a little message hidden within our models.

In Sphinx two of the scrolls  contain miniature reproductions of the Marshall paintings of Sphinx, and a copy of the Admiralty plan.

The third is a personal message from me.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Ninety- two

Back to the Quarter-deck and what lies beneath.

There is a lot to check and test fit, all inter-related, plus a little fettlin’ to add detail to some of the fittings.

 

The Gallows

A touch of deja vue here, the gallows have a pagoda shape, the same as on the Amati Pegasus kit, and reflected in the AotS Pandora book.

05990

This is the only place I have seen such a configuration, and as with Pegasus I will replace the top  with a flat surface, as per the Marshall painting, and represented on many contemporary models.

5995

The modified shape is transferred to a 3mm Boxwood sheet for cutting.

06000(2)

The shape was cut out using the scroll saw.

06002

06003

Still needs fettlin’ but you get the idea.

 

The chain Pumps

These are quite nice with the planks marked on the hood, and  planking represented on the faces of  the cistern box.

These can be further enhanced by the addition of the drain hole and plug on the forward face.

5993

On the outboard edge is a representation of the  Pump dale connection, a rectangular section protruding from the cistern.

I wasn’t sure about this; on the original, the dale fitted into a slot in the cistern, covered by a sliding board when the dale was not connected.

06009

I decided to remove these as I also thought they should be angled downwards slightly to meet the dale scupper.

017

Pegasus pumps and dales

The Sphinx kit version of the chain pump cisterns and covers are far nicer, but times move on, I started my Pegasus build in 2010.

 

I have said it before but Chris and Chuck have created a seismic shift in the development of ship model kits.

I wish I were younger.

   

I will leave the cisterns in their natural finish protected with  w-o-p.

06022(2)

In this shot the drain plugs have been fitted along with the Rhodings thro’ which the Axletrees pass.

 

Winch handles and Rhodings

I need to ensure that the winch handles run thro’ at the right height from aft to fore passing thro’ what would be the Rhodings on Bitts, Cisterns, and Gallows.

The kit version is simplifed using flat section etch for the winches and eyebolts for the Rhodings.

The couplings for the winches are absent in the kit version.

 

I did manage to represent a more realistic representation on Pegasus, and will try again with Sphinx.

 

For those who have an inclination to enhance the ‘metalwork’ elements of the chain pumps  Chuck’s  method in his ‘Winnie’ log provide an excellent example.

06013

Brass tubing is used for the axletrees and winch handles and the first action is to check a smooth run between stanchion supports and chain cover from both fore and aft.

The position of the Rhodings can then be marked on the Main jeer Bitt posts and the Main Topsail Bitt posts.

06018

I have replaced the provided eyebolts that represent the Rhodings with  smaller, better shaped equivalents.

 

Once I am satisfied that the tubing will run freely  through from fore to aft I can paint the bitts/gallows etc and glue the Rhodings into place.

 

B.E.

07/03/22

[Moonbug]

    Those cisterns are really nicely cut and put together.  Personally, I really enjoyed working through the engineering and mechanics of the cisterns and chain pump assemblies.  A very cool part of the ship.

[Landlubber Mike]

Really nicely done BE.  Your artistic touches make an already nice kit even nicer.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Bug, and Mike.

 

Post Ninety-three

Chain Pumps continued.

Trial fit follows trial fit to ensure that everything slots into place.

6030

Sphinx is starting to resemble a building site.

6036

6038

6041

The caps to the pump stanchions are blackened and fitted, and the gallows top fixed into place.

6033

A fair bit of what lies beneath the Qtr Deck will be on show but before the beams are put into place I need to complete the chain pump workings.

To this end I have some small square section brass rod on order to make the winch couplings.

 

On thing that caught my eye is the rather awkward positioning of the Main ladderway leading directly onto the pump stanchions with the pump handles inhibiting clear access.

The kit arrangement is correct and matches  the Admiralty plan.

Far be it from me to tell the 18^th century naval architects their business, but I do wonder why the ladder wasn’t set on the forward side of the ladderway which is free of obstruction.

 

I’ve pondered on two other  questions;

Why no sweep ports on Sphinx, they were pretty much de-rigueur on small ships of the era. Even Pandora, a larger frigate had them.

Neither the Marshall painting nor the Adm Plans show these features.

 

Not complaining, more than happy to omit these tricky little items.

 

Why no posts for swivel guns, I’m sure she would have had them.

They are not catered for on the kit, nor shown on the Adm plan, but the Marshall painting shows three posts extending above the Qtr deck rail, a key indicator that they are swivel posts.

 

Always more questions than answers in this interest of ours.🤔

 

 

B.E.

08/03/22

 

Edited March 8, 2022 by Blue Ensign

[yvesvidal]

So beautiful. I can feel that you truly are enjoying building this model.

 

Yves

[chris watton]

Regarding swivel guns, at the start of the development, I was convinced I would be adding them to the kit. However, the more I researched, the more I realised there was zero evidence she had them. No swivel posts on any of the plans, and swivels not mentioned at all in both David Lyon's or Rif Winfield's Navy list books for this class. I decided to leave them off, otherwise I would be adding something she probably never had at time of launch (as the kit is depicted).

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Yves, Chris has provided me with endless hours of enjoyment and interest, I am loving this kit.

 

@ Chris - I agree you have to proceed on the basis of available evidence, the Adm plan being the most significant, and that does not show such fittings.

 

 The Marshall painting  of 1775 does appear to show swivel posts, and  they were a pretty standard fitting for ships of the period, so there are reasonable grounds for their inclusion, or not as your fancy takes you.

I note that the John McKay drawings in the AoTS Pandora book show swivel posts, altho' Winfield does not mention them. This also applies to the Frigate Amazon 1773, where swivels are shown on the contemporary model.

 

It is interesting to note that John McKay mentions in his book the disparity between various pieces of evidence.

Contradiction of detail  between official Admiralty documents, contemporary models, and the accounts of authorities has left us in a quandary in respect to certain details of Pandora's equipment.

 

Amen to that.

 

B.E.

 

[Rustyj]

Very nice workmanship B.E. The lining up of the pumps, stanchions and gallows looks spot on.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Ninety-four

 

… and more about Chain Pumps

Today I have mostly been playing around with the metal work for the chain pumps.

It is useful time spent working out an approach to the job and trial fitting of the winches.

6046

I am using 0.7mm ø brass tubing and small Boxwood section for the connectors.

6053

The tricky bit is getting the winch shape across the Main Hatch  and the fit into the forward stanchions.

6054

I scrapped three sections before I got a pair close to fit.

6062

The brass tubing was chemically blackened and the connectors painted Vallejo Black/grey followed by  a dusting of weathering powder.

6068

All this is out of Chuck’s bumper book of ‘Winnie’ ‘how to’s’ but at a smaller scale, well worth a look if you fancy having a go.

6069

The aft winch handles will need to be made in the same fashion.

 

I think I can improve on them but I’ll wait for the Brass rod and section to arrive.

A satisfying day.

 

B.E.

09/03/22

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Ninety-five

… and still more about Chain pumps

Onto the rear winches behind the Pump cisterns.

6086

These winches are smaller than the fore and are displayed in the raised position.

6088

The Axletree and connector are glued into the cistern Rhodings to hold them in position.

6090

6091

The forward winches remain free to rotate.

6096

I was going to re-work these using brass rod and section, but at the scale involved I think they pass muster so I’ll stick with them.

6103(3)

The remaining four guns beneath the QD are glued into place.

I have cleaned up the deck out of guilt having seen Rusty’s  pristine 'Winnie' deck yesterday.

6105(2)

6101(2)

I can now think about completing the Quarter deck beams and the associated hanging knees and ledges.

 

B.E.

10/03/22

 

 

[glbarlow]

You’ve made a really nice model BE, it all looks great. The “borrows” from chuck’s Winnie really step an already excellent design from Chris.  We’re all fortunate to have these two outstanding designers to help guide our work. 

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Glenn, so true, my only small regret is that I'm about forty years too late to take  advantage of all the  wonderful stuff that has come and is still yet to come out of the Syren and Vanguard stables.

 

Outstanding designers indeed.

 

B. E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Ninety-six

 

Completing the Quarterdeck beams

 

Seven beams remain to be fitted to support the Quarter deck, plus their associated Hanging and Lodging knees .

I start where I left off moving aft to fore.

Before I fit the beam I add the hanging knees where required. In this area the knees are painted red.

 

With the knees in place the beam is temporarily fitted to check the position, after which it is glued into place.

As each knee is fitted any glue excess on the bulwarks is removed using a small brush dipped in water.

06112

The Hanging knees in place.

06117

With the beams in place the Carlings are trial fitted, these are heavy with char which will all need cleaning off.

06119

False tops will be added to the knees to run flush with the beam tops and meet the lodging knees.

The Carlings all slot perfectly into place, a testimony to Chris’s design and production skills.

06128

The Carlings  are cleaned up and painted red on their facings to match the beams.

06127

I really like the look it’s almost a shame to add planks.

06121

The false deck is tweaked a little to correlate with the beams and Carlings.

06122

Always a good idea to check the Mizen and Capstan slot properly into place.

06124

There are still the lodging knees to fit but less of these will be seen as the planked area broadens towards the break of the Quarter deck.

 

B.E.

12/03/22

 

 

Edited April 10, 2022 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Post Ninety-seven

 

Laying down the Quarter deck

6134

6133

The Lodging knees are completed but the forward ones will not be seen below the deck.

 

It is time to cover up a lot of the work I have done and add the the ‘false’ Quarter deck ready for planking.

6138

I brushed slightly diluted pva on the underside of the deck; it took all of my available weights to clamp it down.

Even so with such a large area to glue the deck failed to grab in one or two edge spots and  additional glue had to  be applied beneath the deck using a scalpel blade.

I was a concerned not to get glue on the exposed beams.

 

Tiller lines

6135

I had earlier in the build  rigged the tiller lines below the upper deck and these are fed thro’ the QD at time of fitting.

Not even sure at this point whether I will rig the lines, but I have given myself the option. If I do, I will probably splice the forward port line to the aft s/b line, and pull it taut  with the splice below decks.

 

Using the False deck option.

There are implications beyond using your own planking with this option.

Both the false deck and the printed deck are of the same 0.8mm thickness, so with the addition of, in my case 0.6mm thick planking, the bulwark patterns  which are shown as fitting on top of the planking will be raised.

I fitted the inner bulwark patterns, including the facing skins in advance of planking.

6142

These inner bulwarks stand some 4mm above the outer bulwarks at the transom which surprised me a little, as it is a fair bit to sand off level with the outer hull.

 

Ladderway and Gratings

I think these warrant a little fettlin’ to  provide a  slight round up both to the ladderway head ledges and the  head ledges to the grating set.

6145(2)

This was done by the addition of  small section Pear and Box wood sanded to shape.

The three gratings were soaked and given a matching round up.

The Capstan partners were also planked.

 

With the False deck secured I can  begin to add the decking.

As with the Upper deck I am using  Boxwood strip of varying widths  but all of 0.6mm thickness.

For the Waterway/margin planks I use 4.5mm planking with scarph joints scribed in. It is also used to cover what would be the QD Transom beam, and QD breast beam.

6151

At this point the  inner bulwarks have been painted red, prior to planking, and the perimeter planking  glued into place.

6153

The grating set/Ladderway will be painted before gluing into place before planking.

 

Toprope scuttles

At the forward end of the deck either side of the Ladderway can be seen the carlings that form the Toprope scuttles.

6152

On my build they will be left as is, but for those wishing to add a degree of authenticity to their build, the raised coamings and gratings as shown in the kit are rather fanciful.

The scuttle lids were more likely solid with small lifting rings, and were flush with the decking. The scuttles were used primarily as access for the tackle used in raising and lowering the Topmasts.

I performed the same modification on my Pegasus build.

6149

I will now work to complete the minimal planking of the Quarter deck.

 

B.E.

15/03/22

 

 

Edited April 10, 2022 by Blue Ensign

[Thukydides]

Looking good BE. You may have address this previously, but why are you using the false deck at all? Couldn't you just plank over the beams (as would have been done on the real ship)?

[Blue Ensign]

For continuity of planking material as used on the Upper deck, it is far too flimsy to stand alone.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

 

[Theodosius]

Phantastic work on the, well, I would call this one the refference build 🙂

[Blue Ensign]

Post Ninety-eight

 

Quarter-deck planking continued.

The completed ladderway/coaming set is glued to the false deck prior to planking.

6158

I start to planking down the centre line and for the shaped planks around the  ladderway/gratings a pattern is made using 18mm Tamiya tape.

6160(2)

The shaped deck plank.

6163

It took a couple of goes to get a pattern to correctly fit on the model.

6165

The completed centre line planking, but without any fettlin’.

It will need scraping and a coat of flat varnish.

 

6170

6171

The coamings require re- painting, got a little marred during planking, but I think the ‘round-up’ modification gives a more authentic look.

6168

 

I now need to figure out the planking along the margins.

 

B.E.

17/03/22

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 17, 2022 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Post Ninety-nine

 

Quarterdeck planking completed

From the outset of this build my intention was to show as much of the Upper deck detail as is practical and with the completion of the minimal Quarterdeck planking, bar the fettlin' I think I have achieved this.

6176(2)

6173

I have followed the line of the False deck  that I had cut away which means that the two inner strakes of necessity have to be fayed into the inner plank.

6180

Altho’ not entirely authentic, this is a cut-away and I like the impression of curvature that the effect gives. This would also have applied with full planks but with a much reduced opening over the Great Cabin.

6172

The alternatives would be to step the two inner planks, more authentic, but perhaps not so pleasing on the eye, or remove them altogether.

I will ponder on that awhile, I suppose it goes against the grain in terms of deck planking to bring anything to a point.

 

In the meantime I have to make up a few more guns, and take a look at the Foc’sle.

 

B.E.

18/03/22

 

[Glenn-UK]

Looks very nice, great work 

[Mirabell61]

Exellent work B.E

I like the quaterdeck cutouts

 

Nils

[hollowneck]

On 3/7/2022 at 11:38 AM, Blue Ensign said:

Winch handles and Rhodings

I need to ensure that the winch handles run thro’ at the right height from aft to fore passing thro’ what would be the Rhodings on Bitts, Cisterns, and Gallows.

The kit version is simplifed using flat section etch for the winches and eyebolts for the Rhodings.

The couplings for the winches are absent in the kit version.

 

I did manage to represent a more realistic representation on Pegasus, and will try again with Sphinx.

 

Great enhancements, Glenn. Impressive - and, I agree, a "reference build" for this excellent kit. I like all of your detail "hacks."  I concur with you that Chris has raised the bar; some of us are attempting to vault over the top of his achievements!

 

[hollowneck]

On 3/5/2022 at 9:52 AM, Blue Ensign said:

I don’t know what will happen to my models after I’m gone, I expect they will just end up in someone's attic, be binned, or sold for a fiver on e-bay, but I derive a small amusement from the thought that some years down the line those messages may somehow come to light.

 

Nice. Actually, as you Brits say: Brilliant!" 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred

 

The ships stove

I have been relishing making up this little beauty and decided to do it at this point as I will soon be moving onto the Foc’sle.

6186(2)

The basic carcase is of Pearwood and it slots together perfectly, taking barely any time at all to assemble.

Most of the carcase is encased with brass etched panels which I have chemically blackened, but I can see potential problems in avoiding marring the finish during the fitting process using ca.

There are also separate Brass fittings which may prove an easier option for chemical blackening.

 Either way if it fails, the blackening will provide a key for painting.

As always the treatment of brass etch starts with a thoro’ cleaning, washing, a rub with fine wire wool, acid bath, neutralising fluid, an acetone dip and onto the blackening agent.

6182

Initially the recesses that form the rivets stubbornly refused to blacken,  but a clearing with a micro drill eventually cured the issue.

The top of the stove is  unplated apart from the lids and the Flue.

6193(3)

These areas were painted black before applying the plate, and were treated with a weathering powder.

The blackened plate is then glued into place using a smear of ca.

6197(2)

The brass etch Flue is a fold and meet assembly and I took the precaution to silver solder the join before blackening.

 

The Chain Pulley

The blurb indicates that 1mm rod be used to connect the pulley wheels and chain pulley but I think this is incorrect.

The holes in the spit support crane would need drilling out to take a 1mm rod, as would the small pulley and chain wheels, a far more tricky task.

6199

The provided 0.8mm rod fits perfectly, and you won’t risk distorting the delicate drive chain.

The 0.8mm rod also looks better for scale.

 

The completed stove.

6206

I don’t know what the two holes are for in the back plate. I did wonder if the plate is the wrong way up and they were intended to be the drain cocks for the boiler, but even that wouldn’t look right.

 

One omission that I think could be provided with the kit are the fire grating bars that sit across the open front of the stove behind the spit support cranes. The supports for these are  perfect for the brass etch treatment.

However, the Stove is already finely detailed much of which won’t ultimately be seen in the standard build of the kit.

6215(2)

Even so I decided to add the  fire grate bars knocked up from some 0.6mm wire and bits of etch left over from earlier builds.

6220

The grate bars in place with the spit drip tray that I also decided to add.

6221

The connector for the still was added to the aft top plate.

6227

The assembly in place onboard.

6226

The stove certainly looks the part sitting on the deck.

6232

There are a couple of other minor enhancements that I could make to the stove, lifting ring bolts, and a rail along the top, but for the present my enthusiasm is expended.

 

B.E.

20/03/22

[Barbossa]

Wonderful work, ( as always ) , Heston Blumenthal can hardly wait...😉

[Gahm]

This stove is a beauty! Great work, B.E.!

 

Thomas