Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED

[Burroak]

Mark as always,, your doing amazing work on your ship.

 

Greg H.

[tkay11]

Just catching up again, Mark. It's wonderfully encouraging to see you're about two models ahead of me in the same kind of plan for progress with skills -- since I too want to move to cross-section after perhaps one more build (maybe La Jacinthe or La Chaloupe Armée) and then a fully framed model. So I see it is indeed possible to achieve the same level of skill. Wonderful! I love the planking and the finish you have on the hull.

 

Just one thought about the black spots. You were using PVA which is water based. Could there be a possibility of fungus? (As in humidity + warmth = fungus).

 

Hoping 2016 goes well for you and your partner, most notably in health terms,

 

Tony

[mtaylor]

Thanks for the "likes" and the comments.  

 

I cleaned up the bow area where at the beakhead to get it straight and plumb.   

 

I'm just about finished sanding the inside..  still have some tricky areas to clean up.  

 

I'm also working on the stern which is a horse of a different color.   I've thinned it out some more, and am looking at the way the taffrail fits (it doesn't but that's very fixable), the carvings on the taffrail and the trim (for lack of a better word) above and below the windows.   

 

The framing  where the taffrail sits is quite what I hoped for so I'll be removing it and replacing it using some pieces copied from the plans and cut with the laser but I think I want to try re-shaping it before I start cutting things away.   I'll show the process later when it's done. 

 

On those trim pieces, it appears Hahn used two types of wood for each of these, but I'm giving it some thought as many of the French ships have one solid piece that's been shaped using a scarper.  Also, I'm in disagreement with some of the carvings.. more research needed.

 

I'm also removing selected bits of the framing between the cut-line and the build board for access.

 

You have done a lovely piece of work so far Mark.  I can just imagine how the hull will look when you put a finish on it.

David B

 

Umm... David... it's got one coat of wipe on poly on it.

 

Just catching up again, Mark. It's wonderfully encouraging to see you're about two models ahead of me in the same kind of plan for progress with skills -- since I too want to move to cross-section after perhaps one more build (maybe La Jacinthe or La Chaloupe Armée) and then a fully framed model. So I see it is indeed possible to achieve the same level of skill. Wonderful! I love the planking and the finish you have on the hull.

 

Just one thought about the black spots. You were using PVA which is water based. Could there be a possibility of fungus? (As in humidity + warmth = fungus).

 

Hoping 2016 goes well for you and your partner, most notably in health terms,

 

Tony

 

I don't think it's fungus, Tony.  When the sawdust was mixed with the poly is when it went black.  And not every "batch" of sanding dust/poly went black in the gaps.  That's the weird part.  But, for now, I'm not going to worry about it.  

[cog]

You could give here a paint job if those black spots persist ... ;) ;) Black might be a nice alternative   

[mtaylor]

De-Construction Time....  

 

The first pic shows some of the problem.. very rough, not symmetrical.  IF I had known then what I know now, it would have been done differently.  I tried to follow Hahn's method of small shaped pieces between the framing.  FAIL.

 

 

The second photo shows my solution.  This piece is the prototype out of basswood.  I'm cutting the real deal out of cherry for strength.  My plan is to remove the small bits of wood and mortise this piece onto the frames.  It's symmetrical and more importantly matches the seating for the taffrail.  The planking will cover the framing and this piece.

 

 

Here's another prototype shot.. the new frame piece and the taffrail.  The taffrail will be boxwood. I'm changing my wood choices for boxwood for the trim and decorations.  

 

 

Once the framing is in and the stern planked and sanded, I'll add the taffrail.  

 

To be continued........

Edited January 24, 2016 by mtaylor

[GLakie]

Hate to hear about re-does, but your solution looks like it will work out much better. I know that's a word I'll be getting myself acquainted with soon enough. 

[wyz]

Model builders dread to redo anything, but when they've finished doing one they are most often glad they did it. ;-)

 

Tom

Edited January 25, 2016 by wyzwyk

[mtaylor]

I've come to the conclusion that a re-do is 99% of the time the right thing.  I just don't want to start a 3rd build log of this beast.      

[gjdale]

Good choice Mark. I've learned that if you are considering whether or not to do a re-do, then you absolutely need to do it!

[Canute]

A tough decision, but one that you know is the correct one.

[jose_b]

In my opinion, it's always better redo any piece with something wrong or you don't like at all. I think, this choice will make you more confident and sure in future challenges. Well done!

[Rustyj]

Hi Mike,

 

It looks like your "fix" is going to be spot on. I like the look of it.

[dafi]

Always a real treat to catch up here :-)

 

XXXDAn

[BANYAN]

What a boon that laser cutter is Mark; the new piece is such a dramatic improvement.  Now, can you loan it to me to remove (cut away) the capping from my midship channel

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited January 24, 2016 by BANYAN

[Piet]

Excellent redo Mark.  Yea, all of us encounter a redo or two or - - - - -  Usually my first comment to myself is "domkop."  But then the redo does look much better.

 

Cheers,

[pete48]

I've come to the conclusion that a re-do is 99% of the time the right thing.  I just don't want to start a 3rd build log of this beast.      

Hello Mark, Let me see if I got this straight, are you talking a complete from the beginning re-do ? ( page 1 paragraph 1 )

 

Best Regards,

Pete

[popeye the sailor]

it's roughed out Mark......now with the aide of your new toy,  your going to be able to clean up these areas and enhance her looks!  very nice upgrade!

[mtaylor]

Thanks for the "likes"and the comments.   Mortises are out as the wood is too thin and fragile.  I'm now on (for lack of a better term) taffrail frame #4.   I'm exploring a different method now but one that should work and give me foundation for the planking.

 

What a boon that laser cutter is Mark; the new piece is such a dramatic improvement.  Now, can you loan it to me to remove (cut away) the capping from my midship channel

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

It's saving me a lot of hours, Pat and a lot of headaches.  I can pop out pieces pretty quick once the artwork is done.

 

You want to use this to cut away something on the ship?  I don't think that would work out well at all... I predict smoke and massive amounts of damage. 

 

 

Excellent redo Mark.  Yea, all of us encounter a redo or two or - - - - -  Usually my first comment to myself is "domkop."  But then the redo does look much better.

 

Cheers,

 

I've used the German version as that's what my grandmother taught me...      Lately, the metaphors have become, shall we say, more colorful...  

 

Hello Mark, Let me see if I got this straight, are you talking a complete from the beginning re-do ? ( page 1 paragraph 1 )

 

Best Regards,

Pete

 

Uh... no.  At this point, it's just the upper stern transom where the taffrail sits.  I hope I don't screw things up that a total rebuild becomes necessary..  so far, so good.

 

it's roughed out Mark......now with the aide of your new toy,  your going to be able to clean up these areas and enhance her looks!  very nice upgrade!

 

The toy just cuts the parts, sir.  Clean up is still by hand. including all the char. 

 

In my opinion, it's always better redo any piece with something wrong or you don't like at all. I think, this choice will make you more confident and sure in future challenges. Well done!

 

Thanks Jose. I agree entirely about it being better and helping the confidence level.  

 

Back to finessing and fitting small pieces of wood to make a big piece of wood....  

[druxey]

It's always worth re-doing - you'll be happy once the struggle is over and won. Sometimes it takes several runs to get things right. Go for it!

[mtaylor]

Bagged it!!!   Still needs a bit of work to strengthen, probably some knees as this is pretty flimsy.  I suspect the planking will help but I'd rather keep Murphy away....

 

First.. the deconstruction... cleaned out the debris and shaped it a bit better.

 

 

Then attached the framing.   This is where the problems hit... not that flexible and didn't get the shape of the existing frames just right.  Also, the mortises on the existing frames crumbled.. could be the wood, could be me.  And broke several frames filing and cutting them in.  Gave it up, cleared off the damaged areas and glued it in place.

 

 

Clamps removed and tarffrail set into position.  It'll need a bit of fitting shaping and all the char removed but I'll hold off until this is completely planked.

 

 

Looking a lot farther ahead in this area, will be the carvings.  Still sorting out what the NMM plans really show and also what was common in the French frigates of the time.  I suspect there will be some trade-offs because what Hahn shows would be really tiny.   Not sure if they eyeball are up to it even with magnification.   We'll see.

 

I'm going to let this sit overnight and cure out completely while looking at other things needed and maybe making the knees.  I think where the stern is now looks 100% better than where I started.   Every step is a learning step or so it seems and this way is a darn sight easier than the way Hahn did it.

Edited January 25, 2016 by mtaylor

[Kevin]

lovely to catch up with your log Mark, she looks brilliant

[GLakie]

I agree. It does look 100% more uniform and symmetrical! Nice! 

[druxey]

The model making business is a continuous learning curve, Mark. She's looking much better. I don't know whether it's the photos, but check the spacing and angles of the counter timbers. They don't look quite equally spaced: particularly on the port side. If they are not, it will come back to bite you later when making the lights.

[Landlubber Mike]

Mark, hang in there my friend.  Looks like you've got a good solution in the works, so just stay with it.  I was scolded by my wife for using a few choice words last night taking three tries to make various planks for my upper hull planking, so we've all been there.

 

Just looked up domkop - maybe I should add some foreign words to my arsenal.  Either that, or I can just call myself "cabbage head" or "pudding head," as my girls would get a kick out of that. 

[Burroak]

Mark when you pointed out the problem with your ship, it took a moment to even notice it. When I look at someone's build I'm not looking for the errors in it. All I see is the beauty of the work and how much time was spent on it. You know where every nick and ding is on your ship because you are building it, but I assure when it's complete everyone will be looking at how beautiful it is and not at any possible problem. I guess since you are a master ship builder, the idea is to build the perfect ship. All I can say it looks perfect to me. I'm just trying to complete my first ship and hope it looks decent.

 

Greg H.

[Landlubber Mike]

Mark when you pointed out the problem with your ship, it took a moment to even notice it. When I look at someone's build I'm not looking for the errors in it. All I see is the beauty of the work and how much time was spent on it. You know where every nick and ding is on your ship because you are building it, but I assure when it's complete everyone will be looking at how beautiful it is and not at any possible problem. I guess since you are a master ship builder, the idea is to build the perfect ship. All I can say it looks perfect to me. I'm just trying to complete my first ship and hope it looks decent.

 

Greg H.

 

Greg raises a good point - I think we get so focused on perfecting the tiny details that we forget that when the model is complete, the eye most likely won't catch very minor imperfections.  Maybe one thing if you are entering a competition and having masters pour over your model with magnifying glasses, but for most of our purposes, I would think that these would ultimately be hidden.  Remember, once it's in a case, most people won't be viewing it from 6-12" away

[mobbsie]

Hi Mark,

 

Well worth the effort mate, the difference is noticeable and a great improvement.

 

You've still got the guts to take apart and renew what you don't like, well done mate.

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[mtaylor]

Thanks for the comments and the "likes".    

 

Good eye, Druxey.  It's not the counter.. it's that framing piece I put in.  It's about 1 mm too wide and sticks out too far.  Rats....  Easy to fix though. 

 

Edit of the edit:   close inspection shows a tolerance build up.   I'll fix it during the planking as the light on the port side is about 1 mm too wide.  Not sure what happened but it's easily fixed.

 

Actually, gentlemen, I've become even harder on myself and bolder in redos as my scrap box will testify.  But it's all good.  I'm also accepting the "dings"... 

Edited January 25, 2016 by mtaylor

[Jim Lad]

Mark, you're setting a great example in the art of being willing to work over what was complete and to constantly improve.  Great stuff, mate!

 

John

[ScottRC]

Mark, the perseverance is paying off, its looking spot on, good luck with proceeding further in the build.