Group Prototype HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)

[glbarlow]

That’s some careful cutting…nice. 

[Gahm]

Absolutely beautiful!

 

Thomas

[Chuck]

Thank You....I just added more images of the contemporary model to the gallery album. 

 

Also this is a good one that shows the cathead as you guys will soon be adding it to your model.   Interesting white painted panels but I didnt care for that look.  So I am going all natural.  Again note how the bottom edge of the cathead lines up with the bottom edge of the molding on the hull.  Keep this reference in mind when you cut those notched.   Outboard side of notch to the molding like this.  The inboard side is taken all the way down to the deck.

 

 

 

 

[shipmodel]

Hi Chuck - 

 

Beautiful craftsmanship, as always.  All the joints are so clean and tight, which is really impressive.

Though I do not plan to build a kit, I have read pretty much every instruction manual, article and book, and wrote a few with Jim Roberts.

I have to say that your explanations and instructions are up there with the best.  They are as clean and tight as your woodwork.

Following along in my head I take it a sentence or two at a time and I can actually see the model rising from the building board.

Every one building the model is extremely lucky to have you take them through a master class in the arts of the shipwright.

 

Two small suggestions, if I may - - 

     First, it might be a bit easier for the modelers if you gave them the knee of the cathead along with cathead.  The slant of its top will establish the angle of the cathead relative to the hull.  This then determines the way the bottom of the notch rises from inboard to outboard.

     Second, you suggest a really sharp chisel for the cuts.  I think many of your followers would appreciate a quick lesson in sharpening chisels.  I don't know, myself, I just pull out a fresh hobby blade.  It is a skill that I should add to my toolbox.

 

Keep on with the good work.

Stay safe and well

 

Dan

 

 

[Chuck]

Thanks Dan…

 

Like you I just muddle through sharpening.  I have a good sharpening stone but I am far from being an expert. I am mostly using a sharp #11 blade like you and go through a ton of them.  But I have 2 or 3 favorite micro chisels for delicate work and do sharpen them a lot.  The chisels dont look pretty when I sharpen them but they are sharp.  I have an old leather strap that I finish them with after using the stone.  I am far from being qualified to explain proper technique.

 

For the cathead support knee…I have that all figured out I believe.  
 

Chuck

[Thistle17]

Chuck if you tap into the Lee Valley web site you will find a trove of information on tool sharpening.

Joe

[Jack12477]

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

 I am far from being qualified to explain proper technique.

Chuck, I've found these videos on sharpening and stropping helpful.  Once you have the chisel sharpened,  then stropping before each use, and during use, should keep it sharp. You should not have to,put it to a stone everytime.  I use this technique for my woodcarving knives.  Also use a good stropping compound,  usually comes as wax stick, green is finest grit.   

 

Sharpening

 

Stropping

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Wow Chuck, watching continuation on the bow is super exciting. just beautiful. i remember that part was difficult. I cant wait to take out my winnie after almost year sleeps my gosh she is almost empty comparing with what is there on deck. Winter months seem pretty excting, watching is enough:) . back on track with great gang of folks. cheers, Vlad

[Kusawa2000]

Chuck: Quick question. As I get closer to getting my Agamemnon project finished (finally), I was wanting to ask if there has been a consensus on what sealer to use on the planking. I remember there was some discussion on using Wipe on Poly or Tung oil, but I was curious to hear what people have been successful with.  Judging from some photos some just leave the wood unsealed. I do like how the grain is enhanced with a Tung oil but I was curious what has been everyone's experience (as I have never worked with Alaskan Cedar before).

 

Thanks

 

MIKE

[Chuck]

I am using wipe on poly on all surfaces if you need something to compare it to.

[KenW]

I would advise against Acrylic Wipe-on-Poly.  I got that version by mistake awhile back.

Cheers.

[Kusawa2000]

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

I am using wipe on poly on all surfaces if you need something to compare it to.

Chuck: I assume it was a matt finish?

 

MIKE

[Chuck]

Satin but wiped and buffed off with a lint free cloth.  So no shine at all.

[glbarlow]

I think the key is wipe-on-wipe-off Poly. Per what I’ve learned. From Chuck, I wipe it on and wipe it off as I’m doing it. Penetrates. The wood, leaves no shine and a matte finish. 

[datadiscovery]

I have no experience with W-O-P yet. One of the members hads a negative comment about acrylic. What is the problem with the acrylic vs oil-based?

 

Pete

[Gregory]

Might be because water and water based products have a tendency to raise the grain of the wood..

 

Also something to think about when painting, if the wood hasn't been sealed..

[glbarlow]

I’ve used water based in the past, it works fine. It’s not as nice a finish as oil based and in some cases (I’m not sure what causes it) it can turn to a bit of a milky finish over time. In any case I’m a complete fan of the standard WOP, done right it leaves a great finish and really enhances the yellow cedar. There’s some guy who says it’s a “plasticity” finish, all I can guess is he’s doing it wrong, nothing plastic about it at all. 

[KenW]

I agree with Glen.  I've had no problem with the standard WOP.  I just wanted to warn people that there are two versions. I would recommend avoiding the water based. 

And make sure you sand the area smooth - use 400 grit or finer.

Cheers.

[Chuck]

NO CHAR FOR YOU!!!!

Seriously though....knowing that some of you are now referring to me as the "Laser char nazi".   There is a very valid reason.  But its not all bad.  There are times when removing the char isnt as necessary.  BUT...I cant understand why it is left on items to remain bright...or painted red which shows.  More on this later.  LOL

 

Time for the Fcastle rail and timberheads.

 

There are twelve timberheads per side.  Thats quite a few.  And then let us not forget the many along the qdeck.   These have been laser cut for you and yes there is a lot of char.   Now I know that some of you will start to see these wonderful details being added which make the whole project special.  And the more details like this the easier it is to lose your will to slow it down and you you start cutting corners.  Because lets face it, getting these details on the model makes a huge difference and you want to see them on the model as quickly as possible.  I suffer the same affliction, trust me.

 

BUT...lucky for us, we do not have to go crazy here removing the char from these timberheads which are quite small, with lots of inside corners for the char to hide.  You will still need to give them a good cleaning to smooth out the surface for painting.  I use sanding sticks and 420 grit sandpaper.  The surface must be prepared but dont try and remove it all.  You will distort the shape and also make the timberheads too small to fit snug in each hole of the rail.  You can see how clean I made those timberheads.  They are still pretty clean with just a light swipe of the sandpaper.  

 

So you will save some time here which is good news because....

 

Because, I strongly urge you not to cut corners on the next step.   You should certainly take the time to shape the timberheads on all four sides.  Many of you will be tempted to just use them as is.  That might be quick…but it would be a mistake.
 

The reason why this is so important is because they will appear much too heavy otherwise.  Too many kits have ridiculously heavy and thick timberheads.  It looks too kit-like.  By chamfering all four sides at the top of the timberheads they will appear slimmed down and in scale.  In addition,  the angled front and back sides… You will need to slice down towards a "stop cut" to create the proper shape.  See the photo above.  This will make a huuuuge difference. So yes its ok to cut corners on the char here.  But please do shape each timberhead carefully.  

 

I also sanded the rail itself smooth and softened the four corners along its length.  As I finished each

timberhead, I slid them from the bottom into position along the rail.  I have created a small "stop" ledge on one side of each timberhead.  If you didnt over sand them and remove this detail, it will keep the rail level and The rookie at the same height across all of the timberheads.  Hope that makes sense. In addition,  this “stop ledge” detail should always face forward when you slide the timberheads onto the rail.  This is important.

 

When all the timberheads are cleaned and shaped, test the rail in position.  The laser cut tenons on the bottom of each timberhead are not as wide as the holes in the caprail.  So you should have wiggle room to adjust the timberheads and rail.  Dont glue the timberheads into the rail yet.  And dont glue the rail onto the model.   While test-fitting in position, you need to add the fancy end piece.   See below.  Just glue it onto the end of the rail and let dry.

 

When dry, remove the entire rail from the model.  Remove all the timberheads from the rail.  I numbered the timberheads but that probably isnt necessary.  Then do your best to fill the seam between that fancy end piece and sand it so you can not see any trace of the seam before painting the rail black.

Here is a picture of the forward end being tested below. Everything fits great.   Nothing is glued together yet.  Once that seam is acceptable to me, I will paint all of the timberheads black individually and also the rail.  Then I will reassemble it for the last time and glue it on the model.  This will take some considerable time....then I have to do it all over again on the starboard side.

 

Any questions???

 

 

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

Beautiful work Chuck! This just keeps getting  better 

 

[Jorge Diaz O]

They look perfect. Beautiful.

[JpR62]

Wonderful! What care taken in the quality of the details! It is always more beautiful.

[Chuck]

Thank You guys.  You all will be up to this point shortly.  Just a quick photo to show the fcastle painted and installed.    Now to do it all over again on the other side.  The qdeck is looking very naked.   But that will be up next.  Just a few more details to finish up on the fcastle.

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

That is so beautiful Chuck, you are a true artist.

 

B.E.

[scrubbyj427]

That is artwork!

[glbarlow]

I won't be to this point shortly but I'll enjoy the journey to get there - soooo beautiful...

[Trussben]

Damn that looks fine Chuck.

[FrankWouts]

On 11/7/2021 at 6:55 PM, glbarlow said:

I won't be to this point shortly but I'll enjoy the journey to get there - soooo beautiful...

Me neither, I wish I was, as this is so beautiful!
But I'm still taking my time cutting the bollards.

Also cut my finger last week cutting making the second version of the pair of them.
Will update soon, the version without blood on the parts ofcourse...

[SteveL]

Chuck
I believe I read somewhere that you use CA on planking only. I have three choices: hold the plank down while applying thin CA. Use thick CA and clamp as shown here or use Titebond and clamp. Please let me know which you would recommend. Thanks

[Chuck]

Its not anything I can recommend.  I use medium CA and that works for me.  But it will be different for everyone.   You should try all three and then pick the method that works best for you.

 

Chuck