Group Prototype HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)

[ChrisLBren]

Hey Chuck,

Youre doing a beautiful job here - as Greg suggested - maybe try another finish.  I do like the idea of either a shellac finish which the masters used - wouldnt be tough to learn that technique or sanding sealer for an unfinished look....

 

Regardless - nice work !!!

[Timmo]

Beautiful work Chuck and a great looking kit in the making. I'm sure sales will go well.

[Chuck]

Thank you very much!!!  And happy Easter!!!

 

I didnt feel like actually working today so I finished the starter package.  The last items to be completed were the bollard timbers.  Just like most projects, there is at least one item that will prove very tricky and challenging.  The bollard timbers arent too bad though.  They are similar in difficulty to making those "bolsters" at the bow of the longboat.   Every model has at least one or two complex parts to shape.  Its not unusual but most kits usually drop the ball on how these items are presented.

 

I believe its just a matter of breaking the process down into many steps ahead of time so mentally it becomes a lot easier.  Each individual step is not very difficult and once completed, you have shaped a very complex piece of modeling.

 

The bollard timbers at the bow are laser cut as blanks.  You need to make a pair of these that match as mirror images.  In the center, a chock spans the gap between them.   Here are the blanks which are 1/4" thick.  

Before you begin, it is important to fair the inboard side of the hull.  The bulwarks and stem need to be reduced to 1/8" thick.  You dont have to fair the entire hull inboard....just up towards the bow.   Its easier to shape the bollards after fairing and having the bulwarks thinned down.

 

Then place the bollard timber in position so the inside edge sits flush with the rabbet as shown.  But make sure you sand all of the laser char off first.  This will help keep the piece clean as you shape it.  In fact your hands should be washed and super clean once you get the char off.  You will be handling these pieces a lot and they will get dirty otherwise.

 

This piece will stand proud of the bulwark framing so that the exterior planking will be level/flush with it.  Therefore, you must create a bevel on the front and back sides.  Once placed in position, use a 3/64" thick plank that has been beveled (just like you would when planking) and position it along the bollard.  Then draw a line down the edge which will determine the bevel needed.  This needs to be done inboard as well.  Note the bollard timber on the port side is already completed.  I will attempt to make a mating pair.  There is a very detailed drawing on the plans for these parts.

The photo below shows the bevel completed on both sides.....note the finished example which I keep handy so I can make a matching pair.

Next, file the round cut-out that forms the top using a round needle file, sandpaper etc.  You can use the shape created by the laser on the other two sides to guide you.

Then draw a line just below the where you filed.  Do this on all four sides.  You will be filing a groove all around the piece.  I actually used a #11 blade to make a stop-cut on the line.  Then I chiseled a bit off towards the line on the top side.  I then rounded it off so it looks like the plan.

This is what it looks like completed.  But you will also notice that I cut a little skewed square from a 1/64" thick strip.  Its very thin but still not thin enough.  This should be glued on top of the bollard timber to "simulate" a nice carved detail.  This detail would be much harder to carve and file into the top so I cheated and glued a separate piece on top.  After I glued in position, I sanded it even thinner to about half its original thickness.  

 

This is what it looks like....below...but we are not done yet!!!  The circular slot for the bowsprit still need to be filed on an angle to match the stem.  You can position the bollard on the model and draw a line to follow when you start filing.  This is shown below.  Once that is completed the bollard timbers are finished.

They can be glued on the model and then the cross chock positioned between them.  Sand the char off before you do this.   You will also need to sand the same angle into the bottom of the chock so the circular opening will accommodate the bowsprit.  The photo shows this all done and the chock glued into position.  It was sanded flush with the bollard timbers inboard and out.

 

Remember that I am making this model out of Yellow Cedar.  You can see how well it holds an edge with these tricky timbers.  No finish has been applied yet.  But the softness of the cedar made it very enjoyable and easy to sand, file and carve.  

 

 

 

[svein erik]

this is so grait to see, as a amature builder it grait to see how it dunn in photo , 

i have learnd so many things from your photos and gydings how to make it (items) 

and this make me want to do better and learn more .

am not a good bilder as you ,but you  make it so simpel to get to understand it ,and that hetps alot😊!!

 

svein erik

[Gregory]

Wow!  Putting that little cap on top of the timber is a nice  embellishment that would be easy ( for me ) to mess up if you were trying to carve it..

 

I can see where this method would be great for a lot of situations..  Can't wait to try it on one of my models..

[Chuck]

Thanks for saying...

 

For those who asked, here is a non blurry photo of the figurehead.  It was getting dirty do to handling with dirty fingers.  So I cleaned it up and applied a coat of sanding sealer.  It looks really good in person but is surprisingly hard to photograph in focus.  The color matches the stem quite well and its still hard to believe this was carved by machine. I didnt use wipe on poly because I dont want it to darken too much.  The stem where it sits will be painted black eventually.   Compare with the contemporary model.  You can see how crude it was carved,  I dare say that Jack did an excellent job improving its appearance.

 

Actually the knee is painted blue and black below it.  I am not sure if I will do the same.  I may just go with black.  Note the headrails.  They are not carved.  Instead there are friezes painted on them.  That will be an interesting detail to replicate.

 

Chuck

[Gahm]

Wonderful work, Chuck!

 

Thomas

[Rustyj]

Very nicely done Chuck. Your step by step explanation as well as accompanying pictures will make it much easier to do. Thanks. 

[jgodsey]

Hi Chuck,

 

It was very nice to meet you today at the Ship Model Conference and Show.  Seeing your work and products in person was a real treat.  The quality and craftsmanship is amazing.  Thank you for the kind and helpful modeling advice.  One question.  When do you expect the Syren Medway Longboat 1742 kit to be available?

 

All the best,

Jim

[Chuck]

Thanks Jim....It was a pleasure and loads of fun.

 

I dont know how I missed your post sorry for the delay in responding.

 

I am cutting new barge kits right now.....then longboat masting packages....then a bunch of serving machines and ropewalks....

 

After those are all done I will start another batch of longboat kits.

 

I just have resock everything else first.

 

Chuck

[jgodsey]

9 hours ago, Chuck said:

Thanks Jim....It was a pleasure and loads of fun.

 

I dont know how I missed your post sorry for the delay in responding.

 

I am cutting new barge kits right now.....then longboat masting packages....then a bunch of serving machines and ropewalks....

 

After those are all done I will start another batch of longboat kits.

 

I just have resock everything else first.

 

Chuck

Patience is a virtue.  

Thanks Chuck!

 

[Chuck]

Revisiting the lantern...

 

 

As I prepare to leave for a short vacation, I decided to wait until I get back to start the planking.  I want to be fresh and rested before I start that.  But in the meanwhile, I have been working with Mike on some fittings and have revisited the lantern.  I wanted to try and make an all boxwood version for the larger Winnie.   So I redesigned some pieces.  This would address some end-grain issues and also account for slightly thicker windows etc.   Not that much thicker however.

I wanted to avoid laserboard all together to eliminate the need to paint any pieces because unless you are an expert painter the lantern could look sloppy.  To avoid this I began by thicknessing some boxwood sheets for laser cutting down to .015".   I was worried they would be too fragile and the windows wood break along the end grain.   But to my surprise, if they are handled carefully they hold up quite well.

 

 

The prototype is shown below.   The inside of the lantern will of course be painted red with a white candle in the middle.   I didnt even insert the acetate windows.  I am just proving out the new design changes to see if everything fits.   I havent put the hardware on the door yet (hinges and handle).  I will do that when I build another and rewrite the instructions.   But it came out rather well.   I am quite happy with it but it is an advanced little mini-kit.   You must go slow and sand everything very carefully to ensure a tight fit of the parts while keeping it clean and neat.

 

 

This prototype took me about 5 hours to assemble.  I havent drilled the vent holes in the top yet either.  These small details will be added on the next one I make.   Wipe on poly was applied as the finish.  My guess is the next one which I will actually use on my model will take longer as I add the other details and paint the interior etc.  No photoetch or laserboard.....all boxwood this time around!!!  The pictures are a bit misleading because this is still a very tiny and complex fitting to build.

 

Chuck

[Chuck]

The last thing I did before leaving was to prepare for planking.   This entailed the usual batten placement.   I cant stress enough that this is probably one of the most important procedures for any ship model project.  The batten represents the run of the wales and if there are errors and dips and waves with your placement it will impact countless aspects of your project later.   Not just the run of your planking but also your placement and angle of the quarter galleries, your curve of the sheer, your placement and shape of the headrails.   So take your time with this.

 

The top of the batten strip represents the BOTTOM of the wales.  I followed the laser etched reference lines on the bulkheads but this is just a start.  Some of these will be "off" for various reasons.   So once you have the batten in position you should eyeball it from as many different angles as possible to correct any issues.  You want a nice smooth run.

 

Note where the batten intersect the stem at the bow and its proximity and location to the scarf joint on the stem.   There is a gentle "s" curve to the run of the wales at the bow and this can be tricky for folks who never noticed it before.   The batten is nailed temporarily in position.  

At the stern, it could get tricky also.   Note where the top of the batten rests on the lower counter.  For those of you who may build this model, the top of the batten falls right in the middle of stern frame "D" as if you ran a line directly down the outside edge.

 

 

As soon as I get back I will start planking the lower counter.  The lower counter planking will all be laser cut and pre shaped.  There will be six strakes of 1/4" planking.

 

Next stop is the beach with where I will sit with a drink in my hand ...maybe even with one of those fancy little umbrellas.   See you when I get back.  Oh and the online store for Syren is now officially closed until I get back.

 

 

[Jim Rogers]

Enjoy, you earned it.

[CaptMorgan]

Hope you have a great vacation - you deserved it.....

[MEDDO]

Enjoy your rest and relaxation.  Maybe we will see one of those little umbrellas in your next post 😁

[Bob Cleek]

On ‎4‎/‎22‎/‎2019 at 2:23 PM, Chuck said:

Thanks for saying...

 

For those who asked, here is a non blurry photo of the figurehead.  It was getting dirty do to handling with dirty fingers.  So I cleaned it up and applied a coat of sanding sealer.  It looks really good in person but is surprisingly hard to photograph in focus.  The color matches the stem quite well and its still hard to believe this was carved by machine. I didnt use wipe on poly because I dont want it to darken too much.  The stem where it sits will be painted black eventually.   Compare with the contemporary model.  You can see how crude it was carved,  I dare say that Jack did an excellent job improving its appearance.

 

Actually the knee is painted blue and black below it.  I am not sure if I will do the same.  I may just go with black.  Note the headrails.  They are not carved.  Instead there are friezes painted on them.  That will be an interesting detail to replicate.

 

Chuck

That is a truly masterful carving and hard to believe it's machine-reproducible. Just one thing, though. Sailors are a superstitious lot.  An evolution of the oculi even now still painted on the bows of fishing boats the world over, the figurehead represents the "eyes" of the ship and is always posed as intrepidly looking forward, ever scanning the horizon directly ahead, ensuring the ship follows a true and safe course, as with the original example. That new guy there isn't watching where he's going and he's endangering the safety of that ship!

 

(I know. I know. People just hate me because of stuff like this.  )

[Jim Rogers]

Ship is turning to Starboard so he is making sure the track is clear.

Edited May 19, 2019 by Jim Rogers

[Chuck]

The lower counter was planked with laser cut strakes.  One thing I noticed on other projects is that some folks find it tricky to bend or cut these strakes to the proper curve.   This is very important because it determines the shape of the upper counter and thus the quarter gallery etc....and it just compounds from there.  So these strakes are laser cut.  I started with the top of the counter and worked my way lower where the final pieces were placed on either side of the stern post.  This will be covered over with a frieze but I added simulated caulking anyway.  I wanted to test how much would be used elsewhere.  Running a pencil along one edge of the joint was perfect.

 

The wales were stated and this is another crucial moment.  The run of this first plank will determine a lot.   The etched marks and references I made after running the batten were used to line up the bottom of the first strake.   I added this first strake with the hull upside down using 7/32" x 3/64" strips of cedar.  I still made adjustments after I finished the strake to try and get a smooth run.

 

I dont care about using a pencil to simulate tared seams on these.  This is just the first layer.  I used the plans to determine where the butt joints fall (4 butt shift).  I added this lower wale strake on both sides before working my up to complete them.  All four strakes for the wales are 7/32" wide.

 

Then it was just a matter of adding three more strakes above that one.  Note how there is no caulking but each strake was carefully added so the seams were nice and tight.  I did have to pre bend the lower two strakes of the wales at the bow edgewise.  This was done as an alternative to spiling the curved shape needed at the bow.  Its the only way you will get the planks to lay flat against the bulkhead edges.

 

I used a hold-down jig in the center as the pivot point which has a slight curve to it.  Then I clamp the plank on either side after bending it as needed.  Note the scrap wood pieces used to help prevent the soft cedar from denting.   As usual I uses a hair dryer on the hottest setting to heat up the strip and then let it cool down before removing it.  The curve you need is very slight.  No need to over bend these yet.   

 

The first layer of wales on the starboard side are completed...all four strakes.  Now to complete the other side.

 

Chuck

[knightyo]

It looks fantastic, Chuck.

 

Alan

[Rustyj]

Very nice and welcome back! 

[CaptMorgan]

Looks like your back and working pretty quick on the Winnie - and it looks fantastic.  It looks like your vacation worked like a charm 😉

 

[Jim Rogers]

She is gonna be a stunner.

[Chuck]

thanks fellas, next I will be painting the port linings red and adding the fixed blocks along the hull. Then i will continue planking up to the sheer.

 

Chuck

[Chuck]

The port openings were painted red in preparation for planking up to the sheer.  Then I added the fixed blocks.  The outer shells are laser cut and etched for convenience.  You could round off the sheave and then glue them into position.  I used a pencil to darken the sheave.  There are three per side.   The extra ones on the sheet are actually for the inboard side after I fair inboard.  These will be glued on the other side before planking as well.  To help register them properly, I drilled the holes on either side of the sheaves straight through.  It will make it easy to match the inboard shell up to its mate.   But you must be careful to drill through the bulwarks straight ......not angle it as you go.  That would mean a misalignment for sure. 

 

 

One other note......I received the test cast for the figurehead today in resin.  It is just white so it may be hard to see the details but it is a really good cast.  It matches the original exactly and is in two pieces just like the wood version.  You can hopefully see the comparison so now everyone will have a choice between the more expensive cnc wood carvings and the resin versions....which are still not very cheap.

 

The original wood carving below...

 

 

Chuck

 

 

[Maury S]

Chuck, You are bringing Kit making to a new level! 

[Chuck]

Thank You very much....

[Chuck]

As I am about to start planking above the wales, I wanted to spend a moment talking about milling planks.  Specifically Alaskan Yellow cedar but this is true for most woods.  I will be offering a cherry version of this project and this is also true of cherry wood.

 

Like everyone else, I cut my sheets from larger billets of wood.  Below you can see one of the these "bricks" of yellow cedar lumber.   It is a 2 x 6 that has been cut to 15" long segments.   In that same photo you can see a very large 1/4" sheet that was cut from the side of the brick.  It is pristine with no visible grain and the surface quality is beautiful which is what you want in a sheet of wood.   On top of that 5 1/2" wide sheet is a 2" wide smaller sheet literally cut from the same brick shown.   It was cut from the top of the brick instead.  Notice the ugly grain pattern that is quite evident and if you were to get this sheet you would not be a happy camper.....BUT

 

When I rip planking strips from a 1/4" thick sheet of wood, I dont want to use that wider sheet.  The useable visible face of each plank would have the ugly side showing when you used it on your model.  You would absolutely see the grain and it would probably not bend the same way......so   I actually use the two inch wide boards to cut all of my planking strips from.  I keep a steady supply on hand and even use wipe on poly on a portion of the "good" edge that will become the planking you see on the hull.   This makes it easier to pick wood that is the same color so all of the planks will match on your hull.  See the photo below which shows a portion of my 2" wide planking stock ready for milling.

 

Whenever I cut the planking strips for a Cheerful package they are cut from these 2" wide pieces rather than the really wide sheets.  Its the proper way to rip planking strips.   I know that most people do the math in their head and figure they will get many more strips from the wide sheet....BUT...it will have a really noticeable negative impact on a well-planked hull.

I will soon add a category in my store to allow folks to buy these 2" sheets rather than get the really nice wider sheets when they need planking strips.  Most may be surprised and disappointed when they get the narrower boards until of coarse they start ripping strips from them which will be pristine and beautiful as you can see below.  I can get 20 strips 3/64" thick from each of these with a blade that has a .30 kerf....I hope this was helpful and insightful to those of you who might not be familiar with this or may be thinking of getting a Byrnes saw to mill your own planking strips.  I will call these " Planking Stock for milling planking strips"  in my online store. 

Almost forgot....here is what that snow white resin figurehead looks like once I applied some color to it.  I used three colors of weathering powder only.   There is no paint on this.   The color matches the wood very closely and I will be detailing how you can achieve this result later on...

 

 

Now its time to start planking.

 

 

[Mirabell61]

excellent kit design, beautiful attention to details !!

 

Nils

[MEDDO]

Thanks Chuck for that info.  For those of us less experienced it is nice to see how to do it right.