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HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - 1/4" scale

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Mike your work is not only inspirational but instructional as well. The collaboration between design and design verification is such a wise process, not well conducted by others. Thank you for leading the way. This is truly going to be a classic offering.

Joe

Edited by Thistle17

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Building continues with the stern framing. I was lucky enough to get the frames laser cut for me. I used a simple cardboard template to install them at the same angle as shown on the plans. Next, the five sills were added. I made these from 5/32" x 5/16" strip. These angles were tricky to get right and there were a few throwaways.  The sills were set flat, not pointing upwards. The final step was to add the four laser cut lintel filler pieces. In a few places, I found them to be a tiny bit too short between the frames, so I cut new ones from 1/4" sheet boxwood. The interior and exterior surfaces were then faired. I was told that these surfaces will eventually be thinned down even more.

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In preparation for the bollard timbers the area behind the stem was reduced to a thickness of 1/8".

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Mike

 

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Thank You, Maury and for all the "Likes"!

 

The quarter gallery framing and aft-most gun port turned out to be my week's project. The 5/64" X 1/4" strip along the top of the quarter deck bulkheads was made from basswood. I sanded the bulkhead tops to the correct angles for a smooth flow of the strip. Getting the symmetry from one side to the other took patience and repeated eyeballing. The framing of the quarter gallery required a bit of experimentation. There are a number of angles on each strip and no two strips are the same, except for the two gallery entrance strips. Rather than waste precious boxwood, I used basswood strips to find the correct angles. As an example, one strip had angles of 70° and 10° on one side, 6.5° and 5° on the other. A disc sander with multiple adjustments comes in handy. After completing the horizontal strips I made the two aft-most gun ports. Lastly, the quarter gallery entrance strips were added. The plan detail proved to be very useful for getting exact measurements.

 

All strips were inserted standing proud, allowing for shaping to the hull shape when fairing. I faired the work leaving a wee bit more for later on when I start work on the lower hull. I'm always trying to stay one step back until I'm sure of where I'm going.

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Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

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The four hance pieces are in. They were laser cut from yellow cedar and set proud in order to shape them to the outboard hull shape. A cross spall was used to insure that they sit straight.

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Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

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I've been working on a few things over the past week.

 

The quarter gallery framing and surrounding area was faired some more. The tops of the two outer stern frames were reduced in thickness from 1/4" to 5/32" in order to match the thickness of the inner frames. The entire area was then faired to establish a smooth batten run down the hull. You can see how much material has been removed compared to the photo above from an earlier post.

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Next, the entire hull was faired with the exception of the two filler pieces under the lower counter. I started on them, but remain unsure about the transition from one to the other. Hopefully, this will become less confusing after I talk to Chuck this week.

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I did manage to add the fixed blocks. 1/32" Slots were milled for each of these. I did not mill the slots on a strip of wood that was the exact width required. Rather, I used a much wider strip. The advantage being that it was not necessary to mill the slot to the exact angle and position on the strip. Paper templates were cut from the plan drawing and the slots carefully removed with a #11 blade. They were then aligned over the milled slots and adhered with Elmer's School Glue. With the template as a guide, the outer edges of each block was sanded down on the disc sander to the proper width all around. The sheaves were made from slivers of wood cut from discs of the same thickness as the slot. Each sheave is thinner than the actual block, so they can recess slightly into the block. A #2 pencil was used to darken the sheave slot and the actual sheave.

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Mike

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Thank you, Harley!

 

I probably used the word "cross-spall" loosely in that post. I used a flat piece of wood clamped across the top of the hance pieces to make sure that the top edge was flat across the hull.

 

On Hayling, I used a cross-spall or batten strip to insure that the frames were parallel across their tops. I tack glued the strip at the height of the top timbers. I set the frame when both sides were the same in vertical measurement to the top of the batten. There are other ways to do this when using a cross-spall, but I found that this way worked for me.

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Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

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I seemed to have lost the Winne project baseline build definition. I had assumed you were doing a beta build to prove out the design for Chuck/Syren. Is this not the case?  The question arises (over the laser work) as I had assumed I was witnessing a true beta build. I hope this is clear.

Joe

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Joe,

 

I am working closely with Chuck on this build, but it is not a true beta build in the way you are suggesting. There will be times when I do scratch over laser cut. Not to make it better, but to work on my scratch building skills. The nine piece knee of the head was scratched since there was concern about laser cutting 1/4" boxwood. The fixed blocks were milled. For the kit version, these parts will most likely be laser cut, though perhaps not in boxwood.

 

Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

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I've been working on the final fairing of the lower counter. It was determined that the vertical filler piece was not close enough to the rabbet strip, so a thin strip was added to the aft edge of the filler piece. The first horizontal filler block had a score where the "B" frame was located. I removed the block and shaved the bottom edge of the "B" frame down, level with the other frames. The new block now sits neatly across the frames. I left one side not yet faired to show how much wood was removed to fair this area. The transition between the two filler pieces becomes clear as more and more wood is removed. A batten strip was used in various locations to make sure that enough wood was removed.

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Mike

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I have made some progress in the last month. The gun ports were spray painted using a mix of Windsor & Newton Crimson and Burnt Umber. The mix ratio is 10:1. I was surprised to see the color bleed into the soft ply so much, though It will all be covered after the planking is completed. Next, I made the bollard timbers. These proved to be quite a challenge along with some failed attempts. Most of the work was done on the disc sander and mill. The eight sided swivel mount and step were shaped with needle files.

 

In preparation for the first layer wales I ran a batten which marks the lower wale location. As usual, Chuck made it easier with laser etched lines on each bulkhead. With the first batten in place a pencil line was drawn along its top edge onto each bulkhead. This line marks the bottom of the wales. Vertical measurements were made at each line and a corresponding mark was made to the other side of the hull. The result being that each side looked smooth and symmetrical with both battens in place. I completed the four strakes for the first layer of wales on both sides working from the bottom up. I did not adhere to the butt joint locations on this underlying layer as shown on the plans. I will on the second layer. Work was also started on the first of two layers that will make up the black strake.

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Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

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Mike,

I like that you toned down the red with a little burnt umber.  I think too many people use modern red colors that were just too bright for what they had available back then.  Looking nice.

 

 

 

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Jorge,

 

I'm on hold while I continue to try and find some nice boxwood for the hull planking. The stuff I have now has too much visible grain. Here is an sample I made to simulate the planking with some Wipe-on-Poly applied.  Some folks might like it, but I prefer a less grainy look. This is a major project and I don't want to compromise unless I have to.

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Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

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