Group Prototype HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)

[dvm27]

Which ever method you choose if using clamps please consider using small scraps of wood between the clamp edges and the plank. I can see a small divot in the plank adjacent to the clamp edge.  Scraps provide even gluing pressure across the joint with no marring from the clamp edge.

[SteveL]

Appreciate the reply!

[scrubbyj427]

Steve, I used medium zap on all my planks, it made the job a million times easier, I also used PVA on all the edges, which was messy but worked great. When I finished the planking I mixed some epoxy and coated the inside of the hull to prevent any planks from coming loose and expansion/contraction.

 

JJ

[Jorge Diaz O]

Hace 7 horas, SteveL dijo:

Chuck
Creo que leí en alguna parte que usa CA solo en tablas. Tengo tres opciones: sujetar la tabla hacia abajo mientras aplico CA fina. Use CA grueso y abrazadera como se muestra aquí o use Titebond y abrazadera. Hágame saber cuál recomendaría. Gracias

 

Hi I only use original Titenbond and these little tools bought from Micro Mark.

[bartley]

On 11/5/2021 at 12:46 AM, glbarlow said:

I’ve used water based in the past, it works fine. It’s not as nice a finish as oil based and in some cases (I’m not sure what causes it) it can turn to a bit of a milky finish over time. In any case I’m a complete fan of the standard WOP, done right it leaves a great finish and really enhances the yellow cedar. There’s some guy who says it’s a “plasticity” finish, all I can guess is he’s doing it wrong, nothing plastic about it at all. 

Glenn,

 

In my opinion it depends a lot on the timber.  I have been scratch building ships and other models as well as furniture for 50 odd years so I grew up with traditional finishes but I have used wipe on poly more recently,  On open grained timber, like what we know out here as Huon pine for example, it works almost as well as traditional finishes.  It soaks in and is almost gone on the first coat before you wipe it off.  But on Queensland maple, which is very close grained it sits on the surface, and when you wipe it off there is virtually no finish left.  So I would use shellac or tung oil on that timber.  I  have not used AYC but I assume it is quite open grained.  Also I like my wood to develop a patina and at first I thought wipe on poly would seal the timber and not allow the timber to mellow.  However, it does seem to mellow with age once again on open grained timber.  Of course this is just y experience and others mayhave different experience.  I know a couple of instrument makers and they never stop debating the best finish to use,

[Chuck]

I finished up the fcastle rail on the starboard side.  That left only a few fittings to make which are all added to the fcastle rail.   These include the spanshackle cleat.  This is made in three laser cut layers.   It will be painted black and positioned on the rail following the plans.  Under this cleat are two posts to help support the rail.

 

There is also the "cat block" .  This is laser cut and is 1/4" wide.  But you will need to sand a curve into it that matches the curve of the rail.  If you saved the laser cut sheet for the rail this is perfect for tracing the shape.  Then sand it carefully to match.  Insert the small sheave and paint it black.

 

The last remaining fitting is another sheave as part of cleat....I am having a brain fart and recall its name currently.  It is positioned along the bulwarks on the inboard side of the spanshackle cleat.  This has been laser cut also and all you need to do is add the small sheave disc.  Then paint it black...but below the caprail it should be painted red.

 

You can see it in the photos below.

 

In addition I have added all the eyebolts and the spanshackles.   The spanshackles are made from 22 gauge SQUARE wire.  If you cant find any square wire you can use regular 22 gauge wire.  Use the plans to find the locations for the eyebolts and the size for the spanshackle.

 

This pretty much finishes the fcastle details and chapter 9. The only thing I have yet to do is the cover boards for the stack opening.  Those should be made out of any scrap 3/64" thick strips or sheet.  This wont be laser cut because everyones stack will be positioned slightly different.   

 

Some overall pictures of the hull up to this point.  Next I will start chapter 10 which is finishing up the qdeck details and rail.

 

 

 

 

[Trussben]

Looking great Chuck.

[BobG]

I know that you have no plans to offer that Winnie stand but it sure is beautiful. I think it really compliments the model wonderfully.

[scrubbyj427]

Magnificent! What an achievement!

[Hubac's Historian]

I found this super clear photographic essay of the Winnie, on YT.  Maybe most of you have seen this already, but it’s worth a look if you haven’t:

 

 

That channel is an excellent one to subscribe to, as it does similarly excellent photo essays of a wide range of dockyard models.

Edited November 27, 2021 by Hubac's Historian

[Chuck]

Thank You for posting.

 

Today chapter ten was started.  You saw that I had already planked the qdeck along the bulwarks after adding the margin planks.  So before I could plank down the center I had to get the coamings all made.

 

The coamings are build exactly like the others we built.   They are laser cut for you.  Just build them using the 3/64" thick right angle template as before.   Round off the corners......yada....yada....and add the cambered gratings.  Two packages were enough to do these three.

 

But dont glue all three down yet.  Only glue the forward most grating and coaming in first.  This is very important.

 

As you can see above, the first coaming was positioned and then it could be used to help position the capstan partners.   These are also laser cut for you.  But because so much depends on where you placed you beams.....where you placed your lower capstan, etc....

 

I laser cut the three parts for the capstan partners a bit longer on both ends (forward and aft).  This will allow you to adjust to suit you model and get the round opening directly centered over the lower capstan.   Then trim the aft side so it falls on the deck beam nicely.  The aft end of the partners should cover half the beam it sits on.

 

Then the other coamings can be glued in position.  Make sure to center them down the qdeck of course.

 

In that same photo above you can also see the mizzen bitts.   These must be glued to the forward side of the beam before you start planking.  So these were made up next.  They are laser cut but you must finish the top timberhead shape as is usually the case.  There is a hole laser cut through these as well.  They will accept a 1/16 dia. rod.   Use either brass, or even styrene or wood.  It doesnt matter.   You will have to clean out the holes with a 1/16" drill bit first as the laser doesnt cut a perfect right angle.  So I made this hole slightly smaller as a pilot hole.   Drill them again with a 1/16" bitt and insert the rod.  Use the plans to get their length.

 

Above you can see the bitts pretty good.  But you can also see a modeler's convention for adding the slots for the ships wheel rigging.   This is laser cut in two layers 3/64" thick.   The lower layer is glued between the deck beams first.  It has a laser etched reference for the second final layer.  Just glue it on top like in the photo.  We will plank around this.

 

Finally the planking can commence down the center of the qdeck.   Use your template as a guide like when you planked the fcastle.

 

This will complete the planking or most of it.  We still have the gangways to do but that will be done much later.  You can see I also test fit the upper capstan.  I still have to paint it red and add the metal band.   But its all coming together.   That will be done next along with the pawls....and also the mizzen mast coat.  

 

 

 

With each update she is getting less naked.  Its is starting to fill out nicely with details.  Any questions. On the workbench…

[scrubbyj427]

Amazing work as usual. Not much more to go it looks.

[Jorge Diaz O]

Will you put anchor, Mr. Passaro?

[Gahm]

What a wonderful model!

 

Thomas

[Chuck]

Thank You....

 

Just a reference for next fitting.

 

[glbarlow]

This will be fun to make. 

[Chuck]

More paint color choices on the wheel as well.  Here are some photos.  For the contemp. model as you can see, the supports, drum and rim of the wheel are red.  The spokes are ivory.  I may be doing the same except leaving the spokes natural boxwood.

 

and some winnie parts for the wheel being tested and contemplating color choices as well. This just taken with my

Phone.

 

 

 

For other cont. models its similar but there is some variation.

 

Minerva...which has a double wheel.   Winnie does not have a double wheel.   But you can see how the supports are black in this case.

 

And Amazon...all read with ivory spokes again.  Again a double wheel.

 

The ships wheel for the Winnie is sold separately and is already available.  Sold one per package.  For those guys waiting for the next chapter this is something that could be bought and made in advance.  Its just the wheel as the other parts will be part of chapter 10. Buy the larger 1 1/4” wheel for Winnie.

 

The wheel kit is built just like other master model builders build them.  There are lots of small parts but it makes a beautiful boxwood wheel as you can see.  You just need to go really slow and take your time.  If you rush through the wheel mini kit …it will look a mess.  So take your time and practice.

 

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

I can’t decide if I want to do Amazon or Minerva next as I’ve fallen in love with both of them through the course of the Winnie project, it’s like they all belong together now.😂

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

youre going like a train Chuck, we barely keep up watching.   Amazing installment, wheel is a beauty.

cant wait to order chapter 9 and maybe will wait for chapter 10 as well to save double customs overseas. i have feeling chapter 10 will be ready in few weeks with this pace.

white spokes for me indeed

[Matt D]

14 hours ago, scrubbyj427 said:

I can’t decide if I want to do Amazon or Minerva next as I’ve fallen in love with both of them through the course of the Winnie project, it’s like they all belong together now.😂

I hear you, JJ, as both of those are beauties.  I can tell you that I'm doing either the Hudson River Sloop or the Hornet next.  As far as I can tell, @Chuck hasn't let on yet which one is next!

[Chuck]

 

16 minutes ago, Matt D said:

As far as I can tell, @Chuck hasn't let on yet which one is next!

Well er about that.....The prospect another huge undertaking is a worry of mine.  BUT, I may be taking the plunge into a Fully-Framed design for my next subject, whatever it will be.  I think there needs to be some more choices for model builders rather than just those POF kits from the east that are emerging.  If anybody wants to build a POF kit they are forced to only buy the stuff that comes out of China.  So I may be the first to develop a full kit done in a style that is different from those being made in China at the moment. I think I can do better.  We shall see how it goes over the next few months. 

 

I can tell you that tests are already underway.  But its still 50-50 which way I will end up going.  Not just a cross section either...but a full hull.  You have seen my other tests into this type of POF development by now.  There are more on the drawing table at the moment.  I think I should do this only because I am not getting any younger, LOL.  So I may as well get this out of my system before I get too old to consider it.

 

 

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

26 minutes ago, Matt D said:

I hear you, JJ, as both of those are beauties.  I can tell you that I'm doing either the Hudson River Sloop or the Hornet next.  As far as I can tell, @Chuck hasn't let on yet which one is next!

Well I’m sure whatever project comes out next whether it’s Hornet or the sloop, it will build into another wonderful model.

[Chuck]

The 1 1/4" ship's wheel already exists as a mini kit as I mentioned.  So I wont bother going through those instructions again.  They are on my website as a download.

 

But the other parts of the wheels assembly will be in the chapter parts.  You can see the wheel and the other parts below.

 

Note How the discs for the drum have two layers.  You can glue the smaller disc to the larger ones as shown.  The other parts had their char removed.  The forward wheel support is longer than the aft support.  This is done because of the camber of the deck forward to aft.  So after cleaning the char dont glue the feet onto them yet.  Those are the flat pieces or strips shown in the photo above.  Once you test assemble all the parts on the 1/16" brass bar, you should position it on deck to see how it fits.  Adjust the bottom of the two supports (probably the forward longer support) so the wheel is nice and vertical.  You dont want it to lean forward because of the slope of the deck.

 

Once you get those adjusted you can glue the feet into position.

 

To complete the drum...take the 1/4" brass tube and it will fit onto the two layer disc.  Then add the other side to finish it up.  Paint it red.

 

 

I also painted the supports red and the rim of the wheel. You can see in the photo below that the feet have been glued onto the bottom of the supports before painting them.

 

Treat every fitting like it is a model all its own   Treat every fitting as if it is the only project you have to work on….just smaller.  As if it will be displayed on its own.  Dont rush these. 

Cut the brass rod to length and glue the elements in position.  Remember to face those supports in the right direction.  The longer one on the forward end.  Then you can glue it on the model.

 

And the obligatory overall shot of the progress below.

 

 

 

Next up will be the binnacle...

 

Any questions?  Or comments.

[glbarlow]

Did you prime or etch the brass tube before painting, it looks great? Will you be adding the steering ropes, are there blocks on the main deck for steering rope to go through? And if you don’t plan to, what size rope would be appropriate?

 

(about two years from now what I get mine to this point I’ll come back and read this post😊)

[Trussben]

I Like the sound of a “Passaro” designed full POF kit, that really would be awesome!

[Chuck]

No rigging on the wheel for me.  But you can do that if you like.  I would guess a .025 or .030 rope size.  No blocks needed because the rope goes through the gun deck.  
 

i did bot prime the brass tube.  I did however run some steel wool over it.  But you guys could also use styrene tube or even turn the drum from wood.  A 1/4 dowel would work as well.  Lots of options there for you guys.

 

And yes I am getting excited about a pof kit.  I hope there is some interest out there.  I would hate to start making one and have no interest from the builders at large.  Unless of course only having the option to buy pof kits from china is ok with most of you.

 

Please share your level of interest!!!!

[gjdale]

I think you’ll find a HUGE interest in a POF kit Chuck. An offering of the quality you have produced with everything you have done  so far will be head and shoulders above anything else available on the market today. Add to that your approach to building and documenting as you go (as in Winnie), and I think you will have a real winner on your hands.

[VTHokiEE]

I also have significant interest in a POF model - it's a goal that I thought I would have to scratch build my way into honestly (hence my current path).

[Hubac's Historian]

I am definitely interested in a POF model, but it isn’t something I would take on any time in the next five years, or so.

[glbarlow]

Maybe three years from now, I have this Winnie thing going