HMS Kingfisher 1770 by Remcohe - 1/48 - English 14-Gun Sloop - POF

[RGL]

Speechless

[gjdale]

A beautiful piece of joinery Remco. You make it look so easy - the sign of a true master!

[Remcohe]

Thanks all.

 

All the parts are glued in place and the stern is faired.

 

 

 

Remco

[SJSoane]

 

Nice, Remco! I am glad the jig idea worked for you. I would be lost without it. I am sure we will both be happy when we construct and install the window frames, knowing everything is already accurately spaced and hopefully symmetrical. Did you cut that very clean rabbet in the fore edge of the transom with a hand chisel?

 

Best wishes,

 

Mark

[Jim Lad]

Just catching up, Remco - she's looking absolutely first class

 

John

[Erebus and Terror]

Every part you make has such clean and crisp lines - amazing! You really do "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own"

I have to agree with Sherry. You certainly practice what you preach. Superb work.

[dvm27]

Beautifully done, Remco. I'm about to raise the stern timbers on my Speedwell and I've a modified jig of my own I'll be using. I don't see how this can be done precisely without one.

[albert]

Hi Remco very nice work.

[Remcohe]

Thanks all.

 

Yes Mark the rabbet was cut using chisels, as it curves in two directions no way I could do it on a mill.

 

The parts that make up the helmport are an interesting exercise in testfitting to get them right

 

 

 

 

 

 

The straps to the counter timbers were cut from 0.2 mm brass sheet and bend to shape, 0.4 mm brass bolts (actually a bit oversized) were used to glue the strips down

 

 

 

Remco

[druxey]

Those straps are beautifully done, Remco.

[rafine]

Your usual superb work Remco.

 

Bob

[newbuilder101]

Beautiful!

[Trussben]

Very nicely done Remco, shaping the helm port looks like a lot of fun.

 

Ben

[BANYAN]

very nice work Remco - another display of your excellent craftsmanship.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[tlevine]

Fantastic as always.  The taper at the ends of the straps ads to the realism.  

[Piet]

Nice ironwork bro 

 

Cheers,

[Maury S]

Remco, Is the brass sheet soft enough to shape the straps in situ, or do you have to bend them off the model and keep test-fitting?

Maury

[michael mott]

Very nice straps Remco, did you heat treat (anneal) the brass or bend them hard?

 

Michael

[AntonyUK]

Hi Remco.

As always truly Exelent craftsmanship with everything.

Regards Antony.

[Vivian Galad]

Outstanding, just that.

[Remcohe]

Thanks for the likes and compliments.

 

Maury, Michael, the brass was hard bent off the model. Although 0.2 mm bends quite easily, making 90 degree bends was done on my hold and fold. the other shaping was done with round nosed pliers. Final adjustments were done on the model.

 

Meanwhile the lower counter is planked but not yet faired.

 

 

Remco

[WackoWolf]

Remco,

 

    Beautiful work, nice and crisp. Your work is always beautiful to the eye. Keep the pictures coming, I have been watching since the beginning. Thank you for sharing this with us, no matter how many years it has been.

[SJSoane]

 

Hi Remco,

 

Beautiful work! I am about to start on the iron strapping for the Bellona, and I will use your photo as an inspiration for what to aim for.

 

Mark

[Jim Lad]

All up to your usual standard, Remco!

 

John

[harvey1847]

[Dan Vadas]

Bugger ..... how did I miss those on my Vulture   ? Bit too late now .

 

Nice work Remco.

 

  Danny

[Mike Y]

Wow! How do you make such a crisp edge? What is the trick for such a finishing?

Could you please share some of your techologies? I guess it is hand plane and chisels, and then sanding with a sandpaper wrapped around a block, to avoid smoothing the edges? Or there is something else?

Or you skip the sanding completely, and use only chisels and magic?

 

I understand that question sounds strange, "please explain your mastership in a few words", but really hope to learn proper techiques!

 

Spent evening re-reading the whole log again, fantastic level! Such a pleasure to see!

 

And how do you finish the wood, for example, frames and beams? On a photos I even don't see the poly, or it is a very thin layer?

Edited April 30, 2014 by Mike Y

[Mike Y]

Also, what is your technology for making such an accurate joints of deck beams? Like on that photo: http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_12_2013/post-20-0-91612300-1385926869.jpeg

 

Please pardon me for such a flood of questions, but just really can't stop looking on that pictures again and again.. You raised a bar to the sky! The "treat every part as a small model" approach is genius! It's all about the process, does not matter if a build will take 10 years, but if it is _that_ quality..

[Remcohe]

Mike,

 

Thank you for your intrest and no I don't mind all the questions

 

The basic tools I use are (very) sharp chisels and surgical blades, files and sometimes a plane. All finishing is done with quality sandpaper and the trick is to always glue the sandpaper to a hard surface. I incorporated my own version of a 'true sander' in a small work surface that I can easily slide out of the way (together with all the tools scattered  around it) so I can pull the hull close by to work on the hull.

 

 

A glass plate with different grades of paper to flatten or thin down parts and small sanding sticks, I make different ones for different purposes like the ones to sand the deck beams.

 

 

The joints for the deck beams are marked and cut with a chisel, usually on the bench and never in situ except when I did http://modelshipworl...1385926869.jpeg but that was just me being dumb.  

 

 

For finish I used tungoil until, but now I'm switching to microcrystalline wax as it's less glossy. I prefer a flat finish so it's hard to see in the pictures where the finish is applied and where not.

 

Remco

[Mike Y]

Remco, thanks a lot for a detailed explanation! Will practice that methods