Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Looking forward to the pdf file.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

Posted

I really do love these 3D printed blocks...

strops14.jpg

 

Ok here is my presentation....keep in mind that I have an soft spot for Henry Culver.  He rigged so many of the Rogers collection models.   He kept it simple while making sure the rigging was not heavy and hung just right.  That is my inspiration for stropping like this.   See some examples of his work...check out those Seawatch books.  You wont be disappointed.  It certainly isnt the kitchen sink approach but it works for me.

 

stropblock2.jpg

stropblock1.jpeg

IMG-1176.jpg

IMG-1180.jpg

 

The presentation...

Stropping Blocks (one method).pdf

Posted
28 minutes ago, westwood said:

Wow, if it wasn't written that it was 3D printed, I think it really is a pear with a little patina.

Thank You so much...You would not believe how long it took and how much money I spent testing to get that color and finish.  Slightly different with each block and within each block... but consistent.  With just a hint of different shading and transparency in each block. When they are too uniform and flat they look fake like most others I see on the market.  But a real wood finish isnt like that. I am quite happy with them.

 

 

 

strop14.jpg

stropblocks.jpgstrops4.jpg

strops13.jpg

Posted

Many thanks for these explanations and this superb step-by-step guide. A quick question about cyano glue. Can I use any brand or is there a specific brand that prevents the thread discoloration? In a nutshell: is it simply cleaning with your finger that prevents  discoloration, or does the brand of CA also play a role?
These blocks are really superb! Thank you for all your hard work !

Jean-Paul

 

'You are not carving a bear with a chain saw here folks',

Chuck Passaro, ´Queen Anne Style Barge´ manual of instructions

 

Current builds :

 

Finished build :

 

Next on list :

  • HMS Winchelsea 1764 - Syren Ship Model - 1:48
Posted

I use any brand but always the medium viscosity.  I know many hate…hate….CA glue for rigging.  But it works for

me and you use very little as you wipe it off right away.  
 

But you could use PVA as well.  But it will take longer to dry and is problematic with synthetic polyester rope.

 

Chuck

 

 

 

Posted

Thanks for the clear and precise answer, and thanks again for the tutorial. 

There's often a tendency to want to complicate things when, more often than not, it's the simplest methods that give the best results !

Jean-Paul

 

'You are not carving a bear with a chain saw here folks',

Chuck Passaro, ´Queen Anne Style Barge´ manual of instructions

 

Current builds :

 

Finished build :

 

Next on list :

  • HMS Winchelsea 1764 - Syren Ship Model - 1:48
Posted

Some Syren 3d printed rack blocks and shoe blocks....a special project but I may make these available.   

 

rackblocksandshoeblocks.jpg

Posted
2 hours ago, Chuck said:

Some Syren 3d printed rack blocks and shoe blocks....a special project but I may make these available.   

 

This will demonstrate my relative "newness" to the model ship world, but... never seen rack blocks before, to my recollection.  What would they be used on?  How are they used?

 

They do, however, look awesome, Chuck! 👍🏆

Gregg

 

Current Projects:                                                             Completed Projects:                                                                 Waiting for Shipyard Clearance:

 Santa Maria Caravelle 1:48 - Ships of Pavel Nikitin     Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 - Model Shipways                    USS Constitution 1:76 - Model Shipways

                                                                                              Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 - Model Shipways        Yacht America Schooner 1851 1:64 - Model Shipways 

                                                                                              H.M. Schooner Ballahoo 1:64 - Caldercraft                             RMS Titanic 1:300 - OcCre (May now never get to it)

                                                                                              Bluenose 1921 1:64 - Model Shipways

Posted

Thank You...

 

This is a rack block....although a smaller one on the Speedwell.  See it just behind the gammoning.  On the bowsprit.

 

l5783_005.jpg

Posted
Posted

The testing process was long and hard before I got the results I liked.  I just spent hundreds if not thousands of dollars testing different resins and mixing them together.  Post print and pre print dye added....more testing etc.  Hundreds of man hours and print tests.  Very frustrating along the way.  Many many failures.  And of course the best results were from the most ridiculously expensive resin.
 

With so many new people starting to sell 3d printed blocks and other aftermarket products, my final proprietary blend of herbs and spices will remain a Syren Secret  Formula.  At least for now.

 

Sorry and I hope you understand.  I have been burned before.

 

Chuck

Posted

You absolutely should keep your process proprietary, Chuck. The time as well as cost you've invested should produce a return for you. You didn't invest in all that to produce a dozen 'me too' knock-off merchants.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

Posted (edited)

Oh I didn't realize that's how they come out from the printing process. I thought they were painted or stained after printing. Of course that should be proprietary information.

Edited by usedtosail
×
×
  • Create New...